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Archive for April, 2010

Battle In The Bubble Video 3!!!

April 30, 2010 Leave a comment

Register now for the Citizen’s ($30) or Pro Wildcard (or confirm your Pro Invitational invitation) ($75) categories here: The Battle in the Bubble Pro Bouldering Invitational.  Citizen’s and Pro Wildcard will be a six-hour redpoint event in which the 20 highest scoring men and the 20 highest scoring women who registered for the Pro Wildcard event will win a place in Semifinals.

Friday, May 14th:

Citizen’s and Pro Wildcard  – Redpoint Format — 4pm – 10pm

Saturday, May 15th:


Detroit Rock Climbing Company Pro Semifinals — Onsight Format @ The Spot — 9am-2pm

Climb-It Pro Finals — Elimination Format @ The Boulder Reservoir!!! — 6pm – 9pm

Battle In The Bubble Semifinals’ Sponsor Announced!!!

April 29, 2010 Leave a comment

Our friends at the Detroit Rock Climbing Company (DRCC) are going to be the sole sponsor for the semifinals of The Battle In The Bubble!

Just a few of the DRCC's awesome line

The DRCC is a relatively new hold company that was started by brothers Nick and Vince Cocciolone.  Vince shapes most of the holds, and they’re poured in-house using a special polyurethane blend.  The business is based in Michigan where the brothers also have two Planet Rock Climbing Gyms and a retail store where you can buy tons of cool climbing gear–including some the hard-to-find Verve items.

Peace and The Master

DRCC!!!

Categories: Uncategorized

Like bouldering outdoors? Learn about Flagstaff from Peter Beal

April 28, 2010 1 comment

Longtime local climber/developer/writer Peter Beal is going to lead an informative tour on the bouldering of Flagstaff Mountain on May 1st.  Info here: Mountains and Water: Bouldering Tour at Flagstaff Mountain May 1.  Here is a link to a video of Peter climbing one of Flagstaff’s gems: Mountains and Water: Smith Overhang V8

Peter has been climbing for a super long time, and is responsible for many hard and some unrepeated routes in the front range like the famous Primeval (5.14a) at Primo Wall in Clear Creek Canyon and the unrepeated The Agony and The Ecstasy, 5.14a (originally given 13d, but upgraded after nobody repeated it for over 10 years), at Lower Security Risk Crag in Boulder Canyon.

Peter Beal, not at Flagstaff. (Secret Splendor, RMNP, photo: Shannon Forsman)

And since this seems to be the Peter post, I should note that Peter also has an website (not recently updated) that records Boulder Canyon Bouldering info: Boulder Canyon Bouldering Guide.

Help us pick some Climb-It Holds!

April 27, 2010 5 comments

The Battle in The Bubble’s Title Hold Sponsor - Climb-It – makes tons of awesome climbing holds.  On top of the holds they’re sending us to sponsor the finals of The Battle in The Bubble we’re gonna order some holds from them for our new wall.  So we wanna know, what Climb-It holds do you like?

Pinches?

Climb-It L B Pinches

Slopers?

Climb-It Shallow Slopers L

Huecos?

Climb-It Halo XL

Technical Crimps?

Climb-It Powertools LG Crimps

These holds and tons more are featured in their online hold store: CLIMB-IT HOLDS – Climb-It.  Check out the site, peruse the holds, and make a case in the comments for the sets you think we should get for our new wall.

Battle in The Bubble Title Hold Sponsor Announced!

April 25, 2010 Leave a comment

Climb-It Holds out of Southern California will be the title Hold Sponsor for the finals of The Battle in The Bubble.  This means they are providing all the holds for the 10 awesome finals problems we’re gonna set!  That doesn’t mean all the problems will be the same style–far from it.  We’re not sure what we’re using for the comp yet, cause Climb-it makes tons of different kinds of holds (check out their website to see most of ‘em) but some of our favorites are these bad boys:

Climb-It Southern Sandstones 3XL

The Souther Sandstone 3XL is one of my favorite Climb-It shapes.  You may recognize this one (we have a couple of ‘em at The Spot, one yellow, one orange) cause we use it all the time.  It’s big enough to match, big enough to heelhook, even big enough to mantle on, but still challenging and versatile enough to be found anywhere from vertical 3+ spots to the hardest 5 spots.  It’s Climb-It’s Boss, and one of the most awesome big slopers on the market.

Climb-It Moderate XL Slopers

We have a couple of these at The Spot as well (they’re blue) and we’re looking forward to using more.  These slopers provide a good challenge on vertical to slightly overhanging walls (think the river granite, the Font, the left and far right sides of the Dojo, and the backside and headwalls of the Hueco) but they’re a little…slopey…to be used on the steepest terrain in the gym.  We love ‘em cause they’re great for setting technical problems, difficulty deadpoints, and arete squeezes.

Climb-It Powerpinch 1

Whooo!  We don’t have these, but we wish we did.  Big slopey pinchy goodness.  They make several versions of the Powerpinch, and we want ‘em all!  POWERPINCHES!!!!!

Climb-It Patina Crimps A

These are some great technical holds–whether they’re used as gastons, pinches, or straight crimps, they’re all different sizes, some have thumb catches, some have thumb wraps, some are good feet, others aren’t, and most of ‘em have a nice lip so they can be used on steep walls (even the cave of the Dojo!).  If you’re setting a rope climb, several of them could even be technical (but not impossible) clipping holds!  Our set is yellow, and we use them all the time on problems from 3- to 5+.  Check ‘em out next time you’re at The Spot and let us know what you think!!!

Stay tuned for more info on the Battle in The Bubble and our title hold sponsor — Climb-It Holds!!!

Watch Carlo compete in the Earthtreks Roc Comp!

April 24, 2010 2 comments

Our very own Carlo Traversi has headed out to the East Coast to compete in the Earthtreks Roc Comp.  The event is being streamed live TODAY! (that’s April 24th) right here: Unified Bouldering Championships

Semifinals – 2pm EST

Pro Finals – 7pm EST

And here’s a link to a video Carlo and Jon just made about their trip to the New River Gorge this past December:

Curse of the New

Categories: Comps

Construction Update 3 :: The White Curtain + CCS Regionals Wrap-up

April 24, 2010 Leave a comment

Last week we were delighted when the office space had been cleared out enough to allow us to use the space again.  Josh and the construction guys moved the white curtain back and now all the space from behind the desk to the back wall is usable, and it’s amazing how much space that is!

Scaling back the White Curtain

CCS REGIONALS WRAP – UP:

The extra space came in really handy for the Collegiate Climbing Series Regionals we had last weekend.  Our buddy EZ came with tons of Evolve shoes for the competitors to demo, and other companies like The Access FundSunflower Farmers MarketMix 1RushClimb On!Half FastLeave No TraceClif BarMetolius and Neptune Mountaineering showed up or donated food or prizes.  Just like all Spot comps, this 2 part event that culminated with men’s and women’s O11 finals problems.

The finals problems looked tough, with the women being stuck with difficult pinches and the men with a powerful sideways throw.  Finally, CU Climbing Team member (and pro competitor) Gabi Masse figured out the difficult sequence on the women’s problem, only to fall at the top.  Kara Caputo climbed next and, after a surprise slip on her first go, managed to hang on to be the first person to send the problem.  The last climber, Chauncenia Cox, (a US National Team member) managed not to slip off the big pinch (though things looked questionable for a minute) and flashed the problem to retain her first place standing and win $50.  On the men’s side the throw was shutting everybody down until, on what looked like his last try, Gabor Szekely got his foot high and static-ed the move, then continued another move and a half before falling off near the top.  His performance landed him in first place, and he also took home $50.

For the rest of the competitors there was a raffle and general booty-throwing, followed by awards.  Everyone was gone by 9:30 or so, and the gym was left in pretty good shape.  We’d like to thank Ben Spannuth for organizing and running what turned out to be a wonderful event.

Ben Spannuth getting some love from Jon

New space!

Back to the construction–Josh moved the old locker room lockers around to create what Jon as dubbed “The Changing Maze.”  Now there are men’s and a women’s changing room with lockers and doors made out of lovely banners.  It’s nicer being at the desk too–it’s so much more open!

Construction is continuing behind the curtain, and as our schedule shows, we are expecting to be done by the time the new wall is ready to go in.  Thanks for bearing with us!  It’ll be worth it!!

Categories: Comps, Random Musings
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