Register now for the Citizen’s ($30) or Pro Wildcard (or confirm your Pro Invitational invitation) ($75) categories here: The Battle in the Bubble Pro Bouldering Invitational. Citizen’s and Pro Wildcard will be a six-hour redpoint event in which the 20 highest scoring men and the 20 highest scoring women who registered for the Pro Wildcard event will win a place in Semifinals.
Friday, May 14th:
Citizen’s and Pro Wildcard – Redpoint Format — 4pm – 10pm
Saturday, May 15th:
Detroit Rock Climbing Company Pro Semifinals — Onsight Format @ The Spot — 9am-2pm
Climb-It Pro Finals — Elimination Format @ The Boulder Reservoir!!! — 6pm – 9pm
Our friends at the Detroit Rock Climbing Company (DRCC) are going to be the sole sponsor for the semifinals of The Battle In The Bubble!
The DRCC is a relatively new hold company that was started by brothers Nick and Vince Cocciolone. Vince shapes most of the holds, and they’re poured in-house using a special polyurethane blend. The business is based in Michigan where the brothers also have two Planet Rock Climbing Gyms and a retail store where you can buy tons of cool climbing gear–including some the hard-to-find Verve items.
Longtime local climber/developer/writer Peter Beal is going to lead an informative tour on the bouldering of Flagstaff Mountain on May 1st. Info here: Mountains and Water: Bouldering Tour at Flagstaff Mountain May 1. Here is a link to a video of Peter climbing one of Flagstaff’s gems: Mountains and Water: Smith Overhang V8
Peter has been climbing for a super long time, and is responsible for many hard and some unrepeated routes in the front range like the famous Primeval (5.14a) at Primo Wall in Clear Creek Canyon and the unrepeated The Agony and The Ecstasy, 5.14a (originally given 13d, but upgraded after nobody repeated it for over 10 years), at Lower Security Risk Crag in Boulder Canyon.
And since this seems to be the Peter post, I should note that Peter also has an website (not recently updated) that records Boulder Canyon Bouldering info: Boulder Canyon Bouldering Guide.
The Battle in The Bubble’s Title Hold Sponsor - Climb-It – makes tons of awesome climbing holds. On top of the holds they’re sending us to sponsor the finals of The Battle in The Bubble we’re gonna order some holds from them for our new wall. So we wanna know, what Climb-It holds do you like?
These holds and tons more are featured in their online hold store: CLIMB-IT HOLDS – Climb-It. Check out the site, peruse the holds, and make a case in the comments for the sets you think we should get for our new wall.
Climb-It Holds out of Southern California will be the title Hold Sponsor for the finals of The Battle in The Bubble. This means they are providing all the holds for the 10 awesome finals problems we’re gonna set! That doesn’t mean all the problems will be the same style–far from it. We’re not sure what we’re using for the comp yet, cause Climb-it makes tons of different kinds of holds (check out their website to see most of ‘em) but some of our favorites are these bad boys:
The Souther Sandstone 3XL is one of my favorite Climb-It shapes. You may recognize this one (we have a couple of ‘em at The Spot, one yellow, one orange) cause we use it all the time. It’s big enough to match, big enough to heelhook, even big enough to mantle on, but still challenging and versatile enough to be found anywhere from vertical 3+ spots to the hardest 5 spots. It’s Climb-It’s Boss, and one of the most awesome big slopers on the market.
We have a couple of these at The Spot as well (they’re blue) and we’re looking forward to using more. These slopers provide a good challenge on vertical to slightly overhanging walls (think the river granite, the Font, the left and far right sides of the Dojo, and the backside and headwalls of the Hueco) but they’re a little…slopey…to be used on the steepest terrain in the gym. We love ‘em cause they’re great for setting technical problems, difficulty deadpoints, and arete squeezes.
Whooo! We don’t have these, but we wish we did. Big slopey pinchy goodness. They make several versions of the Powerpinch, and we want ‘em all! POWERPINCHES!!!!!
These are some great technical holds–whether they’re used as gastons, pinches, or straight crimps, they’re all different sizes, some have thumb catches, some have thumb wraps, some are good feet, others aren’t, and most of ‘em have a nice lip so they can be used on steep walls (even the cave of the Dojo!). If you’re setting a rope climb, several of them could even be technical (but not impossible) clipping holds! Our set is yellow, and we use them all the time on problems from 3- to 5+. Check ‘em out next time you’re at The Spot and let us know what you think!!!
Stay tuned for more info on the Battle in The Bubble and our title hold sponsor — Climb-It Holds!!!
Our very own Carlo Traversi has headed out to the East Coast to compete in the Earthtreks Roc Comp. The event is being streamed live TODAY! (that’s April 24th) right here: Unified Bouldering Championships
Semifinals – 2pm EST
Pro Finals – 7pm EST
And here’s a link to a video Carlo and Jon just made about their trip to the New River Gorge this past December:
Last week we were delighted when the office space had been cleared out enough to allow us to use the space again. Josh and the construction guys moved the white curtain back and now all the space from behind the desk to the back wall is usable, and it’s amazing how much space that is!
CCS REGIONALS WRAP – UP:
The extra space came in really handy for the Collegiate Climbing Series Regionals we had last weekend. Our buddy EZ came with tons of Evolve shoes for the competitors to demo, and other companies like The Access Fund, Sunflower Farmers Market, Mix 1, Rush, Climb On!, Half Fast, Leave No Trace, Clif Bar, Metolius and Neptune Mountaineering showed up or donated food or prizes. Just like all Spot comps, this 2 part event that culminated with men’s and women’s O11 finals problems.
The finals problems looked tough, with the women being stuck with difficult pinches and the men with a powerful sideways throw. Finally, CU Climbing Team member (and pro competitor) Gabi Masse figured out the difficult sequence on the women’s problem, only to fall at the top. Kara Caputo climbed next and, after a surprise slip on her first go, managed to hang on to be the first person to send the problem. The last climber, Chauncenia Cox, (a US National Team member) managed not to slip off the big pinch (though things looked questionable for a minute) and flashed the problem to retain her first place standing and win $50. On the men’s side the throw was shutting everybody down until, on what looked like his last try, Gabor Szekely got his foot high and static-ed the move, then continued another move and a half before falling off near the top. His performance landed him in first place, and he also took home $50.
For the rest of the competitors there was a raffle and general booty-throwing, followed by awards. Everyone was gone by 9:30 or so, and the gym was left in pretty good shape. We’d like to thank Ben Spannuth for organizing and running what turned out to be a wonderful event.
Back to the construction–Josh moved the old locker room lockers around to create what Jon as dubbed “The Changing Maze.” Now there are men’s and a women’s changing room with lockers and doors made out of lovely banners. It’s nicer being at the desk too–it’s so much more open!
Construction is continuing behind the curtain, and as our schedule shows, we are expecting to be done by the time the new wall is ready to go in. Thanks for bearing with us! It’ll be worth it!!
We spent Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday frantically filling in the river wall, the Font boulder, and the front side of the Hueco. We put up a ton of problems of all grades, so no matter what you climb you will have some climbs to warm-up on and some others to work on.
This pic is actually from before the comp, but I just found it so here you go. Notice how they’re dressed the same? Sportiva shoes, Verve pants, Spot shirt. Happens all the time. Yesterday it was Carlo and Garrett–tan Spot hoodie, brown pants, 5.10 shoes. It’s cute, no?
Our first fill-in day was the river and since it’s not as tall as the other boulders it’s easier to set tons of problems there. We had a speed competition, which Jon won with 10 boulders. Garrett and I both set 9, and I’m not sure about Jonny or Carlo. We set a lot though–almost 50 new problems!
Day 2 was the Font, and we had Jay-Jay’s help, and we filled that boulder up too! I even set a special birthday problem for my friend Brooke, who just turned 9. The problem is up the right side of the boulder, the slightly overhanging face, and is blue with a red chico dot and a 9 written on it. There are 34 holds on the problem, and so far I haven’t seen anyone skip any of the hands except the high left bumping hold near the top. I’m pretty happy with it.
Finally, on Wednesday we filled in the front of the Hueco. As usual, the Hueco has more hard problems than easy on it, but we did manage several problems in the 2+ and 3- range, as well as some 3, 3+, and 4- problems. And there are some 4s through hard 5s as well–something for everyone!
After we destroyed the offices, a trained crew carefully removed the appliances from the cafe and the big mirrors from the yoga room and took down everything upstairs as well.
The new design will have the offices sort of where the cafe was, plus sticking out over the concrete below on a new platform that was built out to the big vertical i-beams at the edge of the blue floor. Sorry if this is hard to visualize, but it’s the best I can do. Here is a picture of the space where the office will jut out.
Then they cut away the flooring from the yoga room and took out the floor (the office’s old ceiling) to make room for the new 19′ tall climbing wall that will be going in there.
And the stairway is gone too. Here’s another view of where the offices used to be:
The construction zone was hardhat for all the construction guys, but we just wandered through cause our temporary office was located upstairs in the conference room. Luckily we were all careful and nothing fell on our heads, but Julia had a near miss…
The Spot Estimated Schedule – Construction and The Battle in The Bubble
Today – 5/11 – Setting as usual.
5/11-13 - The Spot is closed to set the citizen’s redpoint and pro qualifiers for The Battle in The Bubble (more comp info on The Spot website).
5/12 - Last day to REGISTER ONLINE for the citizen’s or pro comp.
COMP DAY 1 :: May 14
4 pm – 10 pm - Citizen’s and Wild Card portion of The Battle in The Bubble to be held at The Spot – only competitors may climb. It is important to note that these problems will be stripped in order to present Pro Semifinals, so if you want to climb on these problems you should enter the comp! It’s only $30 to do the citizen’s comp, and it should be a really fun time. If you’re feeling particularly strong you should enter the pro comp ($75) and you could win one of 35 spots (men and women) in semifinals! Click here to register now!
COMP DAY 2 :: MAY 15th
~ 9 am – 2 pm - At The Spot – the invited pros and wild card winners compete in Pro Semi-Finals.
~ 9:30 am – 6 pm - At the Boulder Reservoir – MS Walk from 9:30-noon, then demos with Jackson Kayaks, C4 Paddle Boards, Griffin Gibbon Slacklines and Apex Parkour. At 5 pm The Spot Climbing School toprope wall will open up and the rest of the festival will get going, with booths from our sponsors and select outdoor industry members, food from Wahoo’s, and an Avery Beer Garden! We’ve partnered with the Vail Valley Association, and if you climb to the top of the toprope wall you’ll have a chance to win a VIP trip to this year’s Teva Mountain Games!
~ 5 – 9 pm - The Main Event at The Boulder Reservoir – In the evening the top 10 men and 10 women from semis will compete in FINALS on our new Walltopia wall! Our country’s top pro climbers are coming, and this event will be AMAZING!!! Admission is free, so bring your friends and family!
THE WEEK AFTER:
5/16 - The Spot is open for regular business again and we will be re-setting the walls as quickly as possible. Wanna help give back to the climbing community? From 9-noon you can join pro athletes and the Access Fund for breakfast and trail building at Adopt-a-Crag day at Eldorado Canyon.
5/17-5/22 – The new Walltopia wall will be installed at The Spot, and the gym will be re-set.
5/22 - Locker rooms, bathrooms, offices, and the NEW WALL will be ready to go! Get your 3 month summer membership for only $145 and take advantage of the awesomeness!