USA Climbing SCS Nationals 2011 Results!
Men’s 2011 SCS Nationals Results
Carlo crushed! He qualified for finals in 3rd place, and when the dust settled he is still in 3rd place, but on the finals route he scored the highest, meaning if they used old-style scoring (score by round and count back if necessary, instead of cumulative scoring) Carlo would have won nationals! As it is, he has earned his place on the US National Team for route climbing, meaning he can compete in the first ropes World Cup to be held in the US since…I don’t know…it has been a long time though. Here are the top men’s final results:
[ranking) name (qualis total) (finals total) (team points total)]
1) Magnus Midtboe (802.40) (94.16) (200.39) *Magnus is not a US citizen so technically Matty Hong is the best American climber at the moment.
2) Matty Hong (800.44) (94.16) (200.10) — US Team 2011
3) Carlo Traversi (755.92) (95.82) (194.84) — US Team 2011
4) Jon Cardwell (712.96) (85.00) (179.19) — US Team 2011
5) Alex Johnson (646.81) (88.33) (172.10)
Just for fun, let’s look at the results if the event was scored on the basis of each round individually (i.e. if you won finals you won the comp). The top 5 results would then be:
1) Carlo Traversi
2) Magnus & Matty tied (after countbacks Magnus would beat Matty, or there’d be a superfinal to determine the 2nd place finisher)
4) Alex Johnson
5) Jon Cardwell
I made a cursory search of USAC’s websites but I was unable to figure out why they score this way or find the document defining the rules, scoring system, and points calculations for SCS Open Nationals. They are not the same as the World Cup system, which, if you are interested, you can attempt to wade through here: IFSC Rules. I’m not sure how long adult SCS has been scored this way, though I believe youth has been scored this way for a while. The goal, as I understand it, is to pick the competitors for the US National team who perform the best throughout the event in hopes of having the strongest team possible at World Cup events. I’m interested to know more if anyone wants to comment.
Women’s 2011 SCS Nationals Results
Sasha DiGiulian maintained her lead and won the comp, being the only competitor in any category to flash her finals route. Like the men’s category, the 2nd best scoring competitor on the finals route (Alex Johnson) ended up in a lower place after the cumulative score was tallied, but she still made the US Ropes Team. I think it’s pretty impressive that AJ managed a top 4 finish at ropes nationals considering she barely ever climbs on a rope, and in fact just got back from a trip to Hueco. In any case:
1) Sasha DiGiulian (785.43) (100.00) (202.81) — US Team 2011
2) Paige Claassen (768.62) (72.55) (176.96) — US Team 2011
3) Dana Riddle (774.65) (61.76) (168.69) — US Team 2011
4) Alex Johnson (655.43) (76.48) (163.33) — US Team 2011
Hopefully some pictures and video will show up soon.
Nice job everyone!