Home > Comps > USA Climbing SCS Nationals 2011 Results!

USA Climbing SCS Nationals 2011 Results!

Men’s 2011 SCS Nationals Results

Carlo crushed!  He qualified for finals in 3rd place, and when the dust settled he is still in 3rd place, but on the finals route he scored the highest, meaning if they used old-style scoring (score by round and count back if necessary, instead of cumulative scoring) Carlo would have won nationals!  As it is, he has earned his place on the US National Team for route climbing, meaning he can compete in the first ropes World Cup to be held in the US since…I don’t know…it has been a long time though.  Here are the top men’s final results:

[ranking) name (qualis total) (finals total) (team points total)]

1) Magnus Midtboe (802.40) (94.16) (200.39) *Magnus is not a US citizen so technically Matty Hong is the best American climber at the moment.

2) Matty Hong (800.44) (94.16) (200.10) — US Team 2011

3) Carlo Traversi (755.92) (95.82) (194.84) — US Team 2011

4) Jon Cardwell (712.96) (85.00) (179.19) — US Team 2011

5) Alex Johnson (646.81) (88.33) (172.10)

Full Men’s Results

Just for fun, let’s look at the results if the event was scored on the basis of each round individually (i.e. if you won finals you won the comp).  The top 5 results would then be:

1) Carlo Traversi

2) Magnus & Matty tied (after countbacks Magnus would beat Matty, or there’d be a superfinal to determine the 2nd place finisher)

4) Alex Johnson

5) Jon Cardwell

I made a cursory search of USAC’s websites but I was unable to figure out why they score this way or find the document defining the rules, scoring system, and points calculations for SCS Open Nationals.  They are not the same as the World Cup system, which, if you are interested, you can attempt to wade through here: IFSC Rules.  I’m not sure how long adult SCS has been scored this way, though I believe youth has been scored this way for a while.  The goal, as I understand it, is to pick the competitors for the US National team who perform the best throughout the event in hopes of having the strongest team possible at World Cup events.  I’m interested to know more if anyone wants to comment.

Women’s 2011 SCS Nationals Results

Sasha DiGiulian maintained her lead and won the comp, being the only competitor in any category to flash her finals route.  Like the men’s category, the 2nd best scoring competitor on the finals route (Alex Johnson) ended up in a lower place after the cumulative score was tallied, but she still made the US Ropes Team.  I think it’s pretty impressive that AJ managed a top 4 finish at ropes nationals considering she barely ever climbs on a rope, and in fact just got back from a trip to Hueco.  In any case:

1) Sasha DiGiulian (785.43) (100.00) (202.81) — US Team 2011

2) Paige Claassen (768.62) (72.55) (176.96) — US Team 2011

3) Dana Riddle (774.65) (61.76) (168.69) — US Team 2011

4) Alex Johnson (655.43) (76.48) (163.33) — US Team 2011

Full Women’s Results

Hopefully some pictures and video will show up soon.

Nice job everyone!

 

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  1. herman
    April 4, 2011 at 4:01 pm

    Hi, I posted on climbingnarc as i was also a litlte surprised about the scoring system.

    http://www.scsnationals.org/details/SCS%202010%20Youth%20Nationals%20Sport%20Final%20results.pdf

    But I’ve sorted it out using:

    http://usaclimbing.net/rockcomps/resources/SCS%20Sport%20Climbing%20rule%20book%20042010.pdf

    19.8.3 The number of points awarded is based on the percentage of the route finished. The percentage of a route finished is determined by dividing the climbers score (taking into account holds controlled, positive movement, touching the usable surface, and clips completed) and dividing it by the total possible holds plus clips possible for a route.

    And the comp info sheet:

    http://scsnationals.org/details/SCS%202011%20Open%20National%20Championships%20INfo%20sheet_updated%203.31.11.pdf

    Competitors will be scored according to USAC scoring standards (full point for
    control, .3 for movement off of, and .5 for touching the usable surface of the next
    hold). There will be no preview period.
    Sport Finals will be Onsight format, with one route per gender. [...] Final Placement and US Sport
    Climbing Team members will be calculated according to the following weighting
    per round:
    Qualifiers – 15%
    Finals – 85%

    Indeed this is the scoring system used.
    This just leaves me wondering why there is a scaling factor in the qualifications and not in the finals and how this scaling factor is determined. Because this makes the maximum number of possible points for Q1 400 (scaling factor 4), Q2 440 (Factor 4.4) and finals 100 (No Factor).

    Because when these points are used, the effective factors are not 15% for qualifiers and 85% for finals but 60% and 40%. (If you specify Q1 and Q2 seperately: 28% for Q1, 31% for Q2 and 40% for finals instead of 7% -8% and 85%)

    But maybe this was the plan all along. Who knows.

    If it really was the plan to effectively use 15%-85% then Carlo would have won by the narrowest of margins.

  2. herman
    April 4, 2011 at 4:04 pm

    percentages:
    Q1 Q2 Q1+Q2 Finals Total
    Maximum Points 400 440 840 100 940
    Weighting 7% 8% 15% 85%
    Max points when weighted 60 66 126 85 211
    Effective weighting factor 28% 31% 60% 40%

  3. herman
    April 4, 2011 at 4:12 pm

    If it really was the plan to effectively use 15%-85% then Carlo would have won by the narrowest of margins.

    [ranking) name (qualis total) (finals total) (team points total)]

    2) Magnus (14.33) + (80.03) = 94.36
    3) Matty (14.29) + (80.03) = 94.33
    1) Carlo (13.50) + (81.45) = 94.95

    • Jackie
      April 5, 2011 at 1:07 am

      Thanks Herman, this is really interesting. The issue is developing into quite the fracas over here in the US. I will update the site when I know more or when something happens.

  4. herman
    April 5, 2011 at 5:47 am

    Drop me an email and I will mail the spreadsheet I used for publication.

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