IFSC Bouldering World Cups! Canmore Results, Vail Hype, and Elephant Journal!
The IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Canmore, Canada, went off this weekend! As is becoming commonplace, the event was broadcast live of IFSC tv. I didn’t get a chance to watch it, but I wish I had as the last one I saw was so exciting! I think it’s great that the quality of streaming video for climbing events has improved to this degree. There are always technical problems to sort out, but there is no reason that I can see why this kind of event wouldn’t go over on real tv, especially with the professional crew and tech guys that a real tv station could provide. On the other hand, real tv might be a step backward as it seems like the Internet is taking over everything anyways. That, however, is a discussion for another day. Here are the top results. Pay attention, cause you’ll see most of these climbers in Vail next weekend!
1. Tsukuru Hori (JPN) – this silently strong 21 year old crushed his way into 2nd place at Vail last year. He consistently performs well on the World Cup circuit, making finals more often than not, and climbs hard outside to boot–two seasons ago he visited Hueco and climbed Nagual (V13+), Crown of Aragon (V13) and The Full Monty (V12+) in the SAME DAY!
2. Klemen Becan (SLO) – this kind Slovenian is one of the most psyched climbers you’ll see, regardless if you’re clipping bolts, bouldering, or in iso at the Vail World Cup! Klemen has won lead world cups but never bouldering, though at the previous event in Austria he qualified for finals in 1st and dropped to 2nd after the last final took him 1 too many tries. He loves climbing outdoors, and if you take him to a new area he will be halfway up his first route before you’ve even told him how hard it is. It will be exciting to see what he has up his sleeve for Vail.
3. Sean McColl (CAN) should need no introduction here, as he’s one of the best all around climbers and competitors ever to come out of this continent. He’s a regular world cup finalist, and though he’s never won an adult event (he won juniors several times), his recent 3rd place in his home country shows that he’s certainly a contender for this year’s Vail title. Oh yeah, and he won ABS Nationals this year too–here’s his thorough blog post about it.
Other US Men:
26th – a tie between Josh Larson and Ryan Olson, both of the USA
31. Jon Cardwell – amazing outdoor boulderer and route climber
33. Dave Wetmore – routesetter!
36. Ian Dory – another amazing outdoor boulderer and pro comp finalist
39. Greg Padovani - the link goes to his blog.
1. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) – another 21 year old crusher. The Japanese team is killing it! Noguchi also won Austria and Munich in 2010, and consistently places top 3 in international competitions.
2. Anna Stöhr (AUT) – another who should need no introduction on the US stage, Anna Stöhr almost always makes finals and just recently won her second set of back to back world cups in Slovenia and Austria! She has made finals for the past 3 years and is a strong contender for the win.
3. Jain Kim (KOR) – winner of multiple lead world cups and the 2011 Milano bouldering event, Jain Kim is another serious contender for the Vail title. Her record is exemplary, and this year alone she’s made finals at every bouldering world cup she’s entered!
Women’s finals were rounded out by Juliane Wurm (4th, GER) who made finals last year in Vail, Mina Markovic (5th, SLO), and Alex Puccio (6th)!
Other US Women:
7. Alex Johnson
11. Angie Payne
12. Francesca Metcalf
14. Lizzy Asher
20. Courtney Sanders
21. Isabelle Faus
The Vail 2011 Bouldering World Cup is almost here!
Spot setters Carlo Traversi and Garrett Gregor are registered for the 2011 World Cup, which is happening next weekend in Vail!!! That’s only 1.5 hours or so from here, so it’s easy to head up for the afternoon, day, or even the whole weekend. Th Mountain Games have plenty to offer with tons of spectator-friendly events including steep creek kayaking, biking, a mud run, and the ever-popular dog dock jump.
Of course, I’m sure you are the most psyched for the bouldering event. Check out Vail 2010 Top Falls to see some serious sports action from last year’s event and look over Teva’s choice of the top American athletes here: Bouldering athletes to watch at the Teva Mountain Games.
Official event page with more info, schedule, links, and registration for the citizen’s event can be found here: The IFSC Bouldering World Cup event at the Teva Mountain Games.
And here is a video from last year’s finals!
Elephant and Climbfind
One more item of note. I wrote a little climbing-related article for one of my favorite magazines–elephant journal. You can read it, and many other enlightening articles about climbing, yoga, eco-friendly products and practices, business, finance, and living a mindful life here–Desperately Seeking Spotter. ~ Jackie Hueftle | elephant journal
See you all in Vail!!!