Archive
Gladiator Finals This Weekend!!! + LT11 In the Daily
We are happy to say that we are only a few days away from the last comp in SBS Series 7 — The Gladiator Final!
So what is the Gladiator Final? Well, as usual it’s 40 brand new awesome Spot problems from 1 Spot to 5+ Spot, 2 pro finals, two huge raffles, food, free drinks and beer, and GLADIATOR JOUSTING!!!
Yeah, that’s right, we give you guys big foam q-tips and you get to wail on each other with them. Fun! Fun!
As usual pre-comp, the Dojo and the Beach will be CLOSED on Thursday for setting. The whole gym will be closed on Friday for setting. On Saturday we will be open for the comp only. So see you at the Gladiator Final!!!
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Also, LT11 made some local news! Check it – Louder Than 11 — and climbing – Colorado Daily
Carlo’s newest FA
The Altruist (V13/8B)
Carlo just finished off a longstanding project in Eldo at the PB boulders in the Flatirons and has called it The Altruist. He says there’s a video coming soon. Here’s another shot of the line. Nice job Carlo!!!
Park Life – Another Free Film from Louder Than 11
Check out Jon’s newest movie–Park Life about the Louder Than 11 crew’s Thanksgiving bouldering trip to the Valley.
Loved it? Go download it for free here! - Park Life – Yosemite Bouldering | Louder Than 11
Sh*t Climbers Say – From Louder Than 11 and Andrew Tower of Urban Climber Mag
Perhaps you’ve seen a version of this very popular “sh*t [girls, guys, etc...] say” meme. Now there’s one for climbers, too. Enjoy!
Carlo on Finding Your Style – An Interview with Peter Beal
Carlo in a strange position
If you’ve ever hung around the Spot while we’re forerunning you’ve probably noticed that Carlo has a pretty unique climbing style. Not the offwidth-corner-reverse-body-stem shown above, but one that involves a lot of pinching and jumping around on huge slopers. The key word in that sentence is jumping, and Carlo does a lot of it. Why? Partially because he’s often disadvantaged by height, but also because he has recognized that for his body type and specific strengths, technical momentum-based movement is an efficient way to succeed on many problems where brute strength would fail. Recently Peter Beal tracked Carlo down to find out more about what exactly he means by “momentum-based movement” and what he sees for the future of climbing. Read the interview here:
Buuda Holds
They have some sweet looking features, like this, the Bib Fortuna
A new hold company has been added to the lists! Buuda holds, out of Mexico. According to their website they are high quality machine-measured polyurethane with a 5 year warranty. They are shipped from Laredo, Texas, so they are shipped domestically to those in the US and Canada.
buudaholds.com ~ sales@buudaholds.com ~ 877.430.2808 ~ México
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We do not yet have any personal experience with these holds as we just found out about them but taking a look around their website I have seen several sets and holds that look pretty awesome. Shapers include well-knowns like Louie Anderson. Has anyone else used them yet? What do you think?
Dunes XL
Erosion Set
The Volcano by shaper Pedro Calzada
Article on Tyson Schoene – Vertical World Setter and Youth Coach
Team Vertical World
The head coach of the gigantic Team Vertical World of the Seattle Vertical World Gyms (there are 4 of them now!) has also been a longtime climber, competitor, and setter. His name is Tyson and he’s a pretty cool guy. Over at Climbfind we’ve published an article about him. Check it out!
Climbfind Heroes – Youth Climbing Article #4 Part 1 – Tyson Schoene
Big Hold Company List Update – Urban Plastix
Word on the street is that a new hold company is growing out of the Brooklyn Boulders Gym in Brooklyn, NY. Check out their website to see their shapes. I’ve added a listing to both The Big Hold Company List :: North America and The Big Hold Company List :: ALL. As always, if you know of any new hold companies let us know so we can add ‘em.
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Urban Plastix
urbanplastix.tumblr.com ~ contact via website/facebook ~ Brooklyn, NY, USA
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Click the logo to see their site.
New Article – Basic Hold and Volume Attachment – Theory and Tools
Routecrafting has inspired me to finish up some partially done articles I drafted a while back.Here’s the first–how we get the holds on the wall. Hope you enjoy it!
Setting Battle in the Bubble 2010. Click the photo to read the article on Hold and Volume Attachment
Basic Hold and Volume Attachment – Theory and Tools « The Spot Route Setting Blog
This and other similar articles can be accessed via the “General Setting Info” page or dropdown menu.
Setting Ergonomics from Routecrafter
An illustration from Setting Ergonomics from Routecrafter
Our buddy over at routecrafter.blogspot.com has written a nice little article explaining (indirectly) why the easy problems at The Spot are so much more awesome than the easy problems at other gyms. Actually, it’s just about jug use and edge radius in general, but it’s definitely worth reading if you’re a setter, if you’re a climber, if you’re a shaper, or if you’ve ever wondered just what makes some holds more comfortable than others. Heck, it might help you examine your own climbing or setting and make some improvements, and it might also help you give some helpful feedback to the setters at your own gym if they’re setting uncomfortable V0′s and V1′s. Click the photo or this link to read more: Route Setting Tips and Techniques: Ergonomics of Setting, Part 1. We’ve also added a link to the article to our “General Setting Info” drop-down menu. Enjoy, and be on the look out for more useful articles from Routecrafting and the Spot Setters soon.
