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Bouldering World Cup #3 – Vienna Austria Women’s Qualifiers
Angie and Alex both made SEMIS!!!
The venue in Vienna for the 3rd IFSC Bouldering World Cup of 2012
This is great news. Good job girls!
From the start it seemed like either it was very hot and/or humid in Austria or the route setters gravely overestimated the ability of the female climbers. When competitors fell it was suddenly–slipping off often seeming like they hadn’t expected to fall. Many of the top seeded competitors fell unexpectedly all across the qualifiers, though enough sends happened to make a race for positions in semis. Alex Puccio squeaked in in 9th place in her quail group. Angie was in 7th of her group.
Shauna Coxsey said she didn't feel as well as she had at the last 2 comps, but she is still sitting in 2nd of her quail group going into semis. She said that the problems were really hard and the holds all felt really bad and that it was really hot.
The Qualis were set to have nearly identical problems between the 2 groups though the order is mixed up. So, approximately:
A1 = B1
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A2 = B4
(but B4 is backwards from A2. People seem to dyno on A2 and static on B4)
Anna getting her feet up for the dyno on A2. Once the dyno was done people seemed to get to the top fairly easily, though some still fell off.
Katha Saurwein about to mantle to the top. This mantle seemed to be the crux on B4, whereas on A2 the dyno seemed to be the crux.
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A3
A unique balance problem with a vertical yellow volume and jump out right to a jib on another volume that has stopped every competitor cold. Mina stuck the next hold one time but fell off and couldn’t stick it again. Everyone else I watched fell from the yellow volume, including Anna Stöhr.
Mina wrestling with the yellow volume. She made it through once to the bonus hold (the jib on the volume) but could not continue nor stick it again.
Mina trying to move her feet to get both hands on the volume.
Nobody finished this problem and only 2-3 climbers stuck the bonus hold. It seemed like it may have cooled down as the round progressed and night fell because it seemed like the lower-seeded competitors did much better moving off the volume than the generally dominant competitors had earlier in the round.
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B3
A different balance problem that was sent by several competitors but was quite difficult. Momoka Oda and Maja Vidmar both finished it. A crux orange triangle volume move to a jib and mantle threw most competitors off.
Alex Puccio about to try B3. That volume is slippery!
Momoka Oda on the volume
Momoka Oda finishing B3. She was the first to climb it.
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A4
Another balance problem on volumes that has been sent several times and thwarted many competitors including Angie Payne.
The middle of A4.
Shauna Coxsey atop A4
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A5 = B2
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B5
A balance problem with a finicky last move. It was nearly flashed by Alex but she fell matching the last hold! Then she couldn’t get back up there and fell at least 2x from the volume mid-problem. Jule did it after falling in the middle. She definitely looked nervous about matching the last hold and showed visible relief when she matched the finish hold. Momoka did it. There is quite a cool rose-move possibility at the end, either on the 2nd to last move or the last move on the volume (competitors have tried both).
Alex Puccio mid B-5. She flashed through this section only to fall matching the last hold. After that she had trouble sticking the next hold from here and didn't finish the problem.
Jule Wurm of Germany doin' the rose move on the 2nd to last move of B5
Maja Vidmar
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Angie Payne got interviewed after she climbed and she said that her brain has trouble climbing these problems but she would be really excited to make semis and she’s enjoying herself. She also said that Alex Puccio is well again (Alex was sick in Slovenia but still competed and made semis).
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Women’s Quali Results
Rank. Name (scores: tops/t/attempts to top bonuses/b/attempts to bonus) quail group A or B
1. Mina Markovic (4t6 5b7) A
1. Momoka Oda (5t7 5b5) B
3. Jule Wurm (5t13 5b10) B
3. Shauna Coxsey (4t7 4b7) A
5. Akiyo Noguchi (4t4 5b5) B
5. Melissa Le Neve (3t3 4b5) A
5. Olga Shalagina (3t3 4b5) A
8. Melanie Sandoz (4t6 5b8) B
9. Monika Retschy (4t8 5b10) B
9. Anna Stöhr (3t3 4b7) A
11. Rebekka Stotz (4t9 5b9) B
11. Anne-laure Chevrier (3t4 3b4) A
13. Maja Vidmar (4t15 4b10) B
13. Angie Payne (3t5 3b4) A
15. Anna Gallyamova (3t3 5b8) B
15. Olga Bibik (3t6 3b6) A
17. Alex Puccio (3t4 5b6) B
17. Sabine Bacher (3t7 3b4) A
19. Vera Zijlstra (3t4 3b3) B
19. Katharina Posch (3t11 4b16) A
There were 52 women competing in qualifiers.
Full Results from Women’s Qualis -
IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist Qualification W O M E N bouldering
IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist 2. Qualification W O M E N bouldering
Men’s Quali Results – Bouldering World Cup #3 – Vienna, Austria
And for semis:
Bouldering World Cup #3 – Vienna, Austria – Qualifiers
Team America for the Vienna, Austria World Cup is the same as it was for Log-Dragomer, Slovenia — Ethan Pringle for men and Angie Payne and Alex Puccio for women. Women’s qualifiers haven’t run yet as they were delayed due to weather but they will start at 19:15 Austrian time/ 11:15 Colorado time on IFSC.tv.
Klemen Becan finishing a qualifier. Where are his feet?
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Men’s Semifinalists (Quali Results)
Rank Name (Country) – notes (quali scores tops/attempts bonus/attempts) quali group a or b
1. Jeremy Bonder (FRA) – never heard of him (5t9 5b9) b
1. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS) (4t4 5b5) a
3. Loïc Gaidioz (FRA) (4t4 5b6) a
3. Jan Haiko (AUT) (5t20 5b16) b
5. Thomas Caleyron (FRA) (4t6 4b4) a
5. Rustam Gelmanov (RUS) – won last wc in Slovenia – (4t5 5b5) b
7. Nicolas Farcy (BEL) (3t3 3b3) a
7. Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FRA) – 5th in Slovenia – (3t3 3b3) a
7. Ignacio Sanchez González (ESP) – pretty sure this is the infamous Nacho Sanchez – (3t3 3b3) a
7. Rei Sugimoto (JPN) (4t5 5b6) b
7. Jorg Verhoeven (NED) (3t3 3b3) a
12. Sean McColl (CAN) (4t5 5b7) b
13. Lukas Ennemoser (AUT) (4t5 5b12) b
14. Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) (4t7 5b9) b
15. Mathias Conrad (GER) (4t8 5b9) b
15. Nicolas Januel (FRA) (3t4 4b5) a
15. Mykhaylo Shalagin (UKR) (3t4 4b5) a
15. Martin Stranik (CZE) (4t8 5b10) b
19. Daniel Andersson (SWE) (4t8 5b10) b
19. Jonas Baumann (GER) (3t4 4b6) a
19. Jernej Kruder (SLO) – hand on head – (4t8 5b10) b
19. Mario Lechner (AUT) (3t4 4b6) a
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From the scores it seemed like the Group B problems were easier than the Group A problems since nobody did all the group A problems, and that one of the B problems had some trick to it (run and jump, dyno, or something) as people had many tries but were able to complete the problems after many tries. I didn’t see any of men’s quails, this is just conjecture based on the scores.
Ethan Pringle ended up in much the same position as he was after Slovenia where he tied with 2 other people for 31st place. This time he is in a 3-way tie for 33rd place.
I didn’t get to watch any of men’s qualifiers but it seems the problems may have been quite hard or there were some other extenuating circumstances (weather?) as many competitors who one would normally expect to see at least in semifinals didn’t even make it that far. Most notably absent is Austrian Jakob Schubert who won a record number of lead world cups last year and also won the first bouldering world cup this season in China and got 6th out of 7 finalists in Slovenia. In Vienna Jakob is tied for 23rd with Japanese climber Sachi Amma (who is also a world-class competitor and podiums regularly in Lead World Cups). For bouldering Sachi took 4th in China and made semis in Slovenia though he ended up in 20th. Jakob and Sachi were the first to not make semis as there were multiple ties in quails including a 4-way tie for 19th.
Other recognizable names who are not in semis:
25. Francois Kaiser (FRA) – made finals in Vail 2010, has podiumed at other events.
25. Alexey Rubtsov (RUS) – regular finalist. Got 7th in Slovenia.
27. Dave Barrans (GBR) – has made many semis since 2009, made finals 3x
27. Chris Webb-Parsons (AUS) – sometimes makes semis, sometimes doesn’t, but always could. Made finals in Vail 2011.
31. Christian Core (ITA) – older climber. made semis in Sheffield 2011, 7th at Euro Championship in Austria 2010, 3rd at world cup in Switzerland 2010.
31. Nicky De Leeuw (NED) – 6th in Sheffield 2011, semis in 7 of 10 Bouldering World Cups in 2011/2012
33. Tsukuru Hori (JPN) – Won Japan 2011, 2nd in Vail 2010, 9th in China 2012, made 10 out of 12 semis in 2011/2012
36. Anthony Gullsten (FIN) – not a regular competitor but great outdoor boulderer, made semis at last 2 events he attended.
39. James Kassay (AUS) – famous for outdoor bouldering, not much of a competitor yet, 41st in Slovenia.
43. Stefan Danker (GER) – 10th in China and Slovenia, 4th in Canada 2011, 18th in Vail 2011.
47. Klemen Becan (SLO) – 11th in Slovenia, 18th in China. Normally a good competitor. 2nd at 2 Bouldering WCs last year.
49. Wouter Jongeneelen (NED) – 6th in Canada 2011, 6th in Vail 2010, 15th in China 2012. Also didn’t make semis in Slovenia last weekend.
Full quails results for men:
IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist Qualification M E N bouldering
IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist 2. Qualification M E N bouldering
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Until then, to refresh yourself as to the Log-Dragomer World Cup and how Team America did you can check out all of that comp coverage here - IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2012 #2 Log-Dragomer Slovenia
Also you can watch the wonderful World Cup Report for that comp here. The World Cup Report is a video report that movement specialist Udo Neumann has been putting together for several years. The videos sum up the comps by examining the movement of different competitors on the same problems or routes. They are very interesting to watch.
