Home > 2012, Comps, World Cup > Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Finals – Problems 3 & 4 + Podiums

Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Finals – Problems 3 & 4 + Podiums

More coverage on Men’s 1 & 2 and all Women’s Finals. See bottom of this article for links.

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Men’s 3

Kilian getting his feet over for the move to the bonus hold.

Kilian came out, easily locked off and stuck the bonus hold with his left hand, then tried to bump his left hand up again and skip part of a difficult looking sequence by doing so. Instead he fell, but he may try that method again as he was close.

Kilian manhandling the little crimps at the bottom.

2nd go he came out and skipped the bonus hold as he’d already touched it. The method worked and he seemed to easily climb to the top.

Kilian skipping the bonus on his 2nd go. You can see it off to his right.

Kilian at the end.

Rustam came out, static-ed easily through the crimps, used the top crimps as double gastons, and easily crossed to the finish for the flash.

Rustam matched the crimp sidepull/undercling and went up right to the bonus.

Rustam devised his own method and it worked well for moving off the bonus instead of the next (worse?) hold above it.

Rustam hiked this one.

Jeremy came out, did the first move easily, and was leaning back to do the second move when his left hand blew off the hold, dropping him to the mats on his side and leaving his fingers in pain it looked like. 2nd and 3rd go he fell moving out right from that first left hand, both times looking at his left finger tips which seem to be in pain. He fell off that move again, and maybe another time, before sticking it and moving out left to the crimp. He got his feet up and went to move to the next hold, but fell trying to move without getting anywhere.

Jeremy fell several times here including his hand just ripping off the left crimp 1st go and causing him some pain and friction problems after that.

Tito came out and climbed once and immediately there was a technical–a foothold crumbled off the wall. The setters were called out to replace it. He had to sit on the mat facing the audience while they fixed it. He climbed to the bonus hold, though I’m not 100% sure he stuck it enough to get credit for it. 3rd go he got the bonus again, then struggled to move his next hand up off it and slipped and he was done.

Once again there were feed problems so I don’t have any pictures of Tito on this one either.

Dmitrii came out, powered through the setters’ intended sequence in the bonus match, then fell jumping for the last hold. Rustam looked a little at risk for falling there as well on his go but he moved slowly and stuck the finish.

Power move to the gaston.

Dmitrii doing the sequence. A very hard match.

Dmitrii moving left.

Dmitrii jumped a little too much to stick the slopey-looking last hold. 2nd go Dmitrii did the same bottom sequence but a bit faster. He went slightly slower to the top hold and stuck it for the send.

Dmitrii missed this once, stuck it the second try.

Rei came last, even though his ankle was slightly injured they wrapped it for him in blue tape and he seemed to be walking fine. The taping abilities of the physios are pretty extraordinary, and he seemed to be standing on the ankle like normal. He climbed up to the bonus hold and seemed to control it but he fell trying to match his left hand up as Dmitrii had. 2nd go he fell on the 2nd move that had given Jeremy Bonder so much trouble. He rested again before his 3rd go, then did what Kilian did and skipped the bonus hold (having already controlled it) and climbed to the top.

Skipping the bonus hold the 2nd time around.

Rei about to do the last move off the double gastons.

He actually stuck this.

Rei holding on to the match for what looks like dear life. You can see his taped foot clearly from here.

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Men’s 4

On his flash go Kilian made it through the sideways jump, up the slopers, then fell off grabbing the final hold–a slippery triangle volume like those that had given people trouble earlier in the day.

Kilian just after the start jump. The problem started to the right on the triangle volume, stood up to the sloper, then jumped left to the large foot and sidepull that Kilian is on now.

Kilian using good body position to stay in on the slopers.

Next go he came out and caught the last hold, holding the swing and then using a foot bicycle to match hands for the send.

Kilian sticking the finish 2nd go.

Rustam came out next with high pressure knowing that Kilian had done it quickly (but maybe not that high as Rustam had sent every problem thus far and nobody else had). He climbed the problem in 40 seconds to assure his gold medal and his second win in a row in a bouldering world cup.

Rustam keeping his balance in the middle of the problem.

Rustam Gelmanov on the flash.

Jeremy Bonder came out and fell off the sideways jump. 2nd go he tried the finger in the bolt hole but fell again. Same for his 3rd go. And his 4th. And again.

Everyone ended up jumping out of the mono in the bolt hole. Guess the sloper was really bad.

Eventually this somehow worked for him.

And maybe even again. And then what happened? Again Jeremy tried, looking like he had no chance, and somehow stuck the move he’d fallen off several times before, made it through the rest of the problem, and sent!

Jeremy made the rest of this look pretty doable

Jeremy was so excited to finally get to the end that he just kept going.

Tito came out and flashed? The feed cut out, but he did it fast, first or second go.

I have no pic of Tito's climb cause the feed cut out, so here's the crowd.

Dmitrii flashed the problem easily to assure his silver medal.

High foot, big last move.

Dmitrii on top

Finally Rei came out, stood up, missed the side jump and smacked his hip and side on the volume. Second go he tried to jump both feet to the volume and grab the hold as a gaston with his right hand.

This did not work.

3rd go he stepped correctly and used his left hand and stuck the jump, then hit the bonus, then slipped off the holds before the last jump suddenly when his left hand slipped and he lost his balance.

Rei tagging the bonus hold right before reaching out left and slipping off.

Next go he again got through the bottom, kept his body in and did the huge move to the last hold, which he stuck for the send.

Rei sticking the big jump and swing last move.

Rei atop his last boulder. You can kind of see his right ankle is taped in blue.

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Men’s Final Results

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (silver) Rustam Gelmanov (gold) Kilian Fischhuber (bronze)

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More Coverage:

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Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Women’s Finals – Intro & Problems 1 & 2

Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Women’s Finals – Problems 3 & 4 + Podium!

Full Results:

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result M E N bouldering

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result W O M E N bouldering

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