Home > 2012, Comps, World Cup > Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Problems 1 & 2

Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Problems 1 & 2

More coverage for Men’s 3 and 4, Men’s podiums, all Women’s finals and podiums, semifinals, and qualifiers can be found via links at the bottom of this article.

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Men’s 1

Kilian Fischhuber came out first and climbed easily to the bonus hold, then fell bumping out left on it through the sea of orange triangles.

Kilian pressed the bonus hold easily as he did the mantle.

Next go he again climbed easily to the bonus and slipped off in the same place. 3rd go was the same. 4th and 5th he slipped off trying a double dyno for the opposing triangle volumes out left.

Kilian trying to double dyno to use the two triangles as double gastons. It didn't work.

Rustam came next and climbed easily to the bonus but, like Kilian, slipped off trying to move on from there. It seems this problem is very delicate and any balance mistake means the climber is right off. 2nd go was a similar situation, he fell again by slipping off the early volumes. Next go he got up and kept his balance, moving slowly right on a foot perch through the triangle volumes and to the finish of the the boulder.

Starting down the road to success.

Rustam matched this small triangle to move out right.

Good position on the gastons.

A nice controlled cross to the finish.

Success for Rustam.

Jeremy Bonder came out next. I don’t know that I’ve ever seen this guy before but he is crushing at this comp. 1st go he jumped right on the wall and moved through the bonus hold and out right, then slipped off trying to move his other hand and body out right to catch up with his right hand. 3rd go was the same, he got his right hand out right but couldn’t get his other hand or feet over before slipping. Next go he did it again, but this time he quickly got his feet up and looked in better position to move out right with the match. Unfortunately instead of matching he again moved his right hand out way right and couldn’t hold the next volume as a gaston–he was too extended. He got back on the wall one more time, made his extended gaston work, got his feet back up, matched, moved right, and finished the boulder! Amazing.

High right foot to push into this gaston.

Match.

Good position.

Great success.

Tito (Thomas Caleyron) came out next and looked good moving up through the bonus and out right before suddenly slipping off. 2nd go he got even farther out right but with his feet low he slipped matching his left hand in to the left little triangle. Last go he had the same problem and fell in the same place.

Moving out right. A high foot probably would have helped.

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov came next. Dmitrii did very well last year and is a regular finalist. He is also currently ranked 1st in the world. For this first final he came out and stood up on the first volume, then fell matching it. I’m not sure that he touched the bonus hold on his way by–hopefully he did or it may come back to harm him. 2nd go he definitely pressed against the bonus hold, then fell again trying to stand up and balance. 3rd go he seemed in better position to move right but slipped. 4th go? I think this is 4th go. He again slipped at the bottom. 5th go was the same.

Dmitrii was pretty much stuck here the whole time.

Rei Sugimoto came out last. First go he slipped off the first move. Second go he was more careful and stood up to the bonus hold, then trying to move out right didn’t get his right foot up and fell. The feed cut out so I’m not sure how the next go went, but then he fell again trying to move around the bonus volume and out right. He fell again at least once, then somehow magically stuck the holds out right, got his foot up, and levitated his way to the finish.

About to start levitating.

Feet?

Levitation Station

Rei with one hand on the finish. He matched and got the send.

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Men’s 2

Kilian came out and hiked the problem, confidently throwing through the cross double-dyno and celebrating at the top.

Kilian dominating the bottom of the problem.

Got the undercling, ready for the dyno.

Caught the dyno, ready to move up

Kilian at the finish after the flash

Rustam came out and climbed to the cross-dyno, but tried to go with only one hand and didn’t have enough height to stick the sloper. Kilian’s method looks to be the best as the holds are slopey pinches and using them in opposition is probably the best way to stick them.

Rustam engaging on the left hand sloper. He quickly matched right and kept going for the 2nd go send.

Next go Rustam jumped a little harder and easily stuck the dyno one-two and finished the problem, doing a 1 arm pull up on the last hold, perhaps to apologize for having messed up the problem on his first go.

Rustam at the finish.

Jeremy came out and slipped off the first move. He didn’t seem to even grab the hold, just put his hand on it and slid off. 2nd go he again fell off the move. He fell there again, and a fourth time he stuck it for a second and then fell. Fifth go he got up a little better and stuck the hold, matched it, kept it as his feet cut and helicoptered, then fell doing the big move to the bonus hold. Next go he got up there again and nearly stuck the bonus hold but didn’t get quite high enough. With 10 seconds left he got back on the wall, did the first move again, and fell grabbing the bonus again without scoring for it.

Jeremy struggled with this move for a long time and then struggled with the next move as well.

Not quite sticking the bonus.

Tito came next and also slipped off the first hold. Next go he got through the first move, stuck the bonus, committed to the double cross dyno, and finished the problem.

Tito catching the double dyno for a 2nd go send.

Dmitrii came out and after tentatively moving though the first move flashed the problem. Most interesting was his catch of the double dyno–he used the right arete of the wall for his right hand catch instead of the right hand hold.

He went one-two, left to hold, right to arete. Sadly I don't have a shot of him catching it.

Once he stopped the swing he stood up and finished the boulder.

Looking casual on the last move

Dmitrii at the top

Rei came out and climbed through the bottom well, though the move to the bonus looked very long for him. He stuck the undercling out right but fell on the cross dyno after not quite jumping high enough and bringing both hands up. The fall was unexpected and awkward and the announcers said he seems to have tweaked his right ankle a bit. He kept trying to gear up for the next go and then backing off, preparing himself 100% to try and send. He got back on, climbed again to the dyno, and again fell trying to catch it. He’s got a physio looking at his right ankle, which he seems to have tweaked. Instead of climbing again he is sitting down letting the physio work on his ankle, and his time ran out. He seemed to be mostly ok as he walked off the mat.

The move to the bonus hold was quite long but Rei managed it.

Setting up for the jump

Rei not quite sticking the double dyno. He just didn't seem quite high enough to engage the left hand. It was this fall that tweaked his ankle the first time he took it, but he got back up here and fell in the same place again.

Use the links below to see Finals 3 & 4 and the final results for men in Vienna as well as Women’s Finals and all categories qualifiers and semis.

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Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Women’s Finals – Intro & Problems 1 & 2

Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Women’s Finals – Problems 3 & 4 + Podium!

Men’s Finals 3 & 4 and Podiums

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