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Archive for June, 2012

Big Hold Company List Update – Didak’s Climbing Holds

June 30, 2012 5 comments

This hold company out of Spain also sells nearly everything else you might need for setting and climbing–bolts, harnesses, helmets, chalk bags, funny t-shirts, belay devices, ropes, draws, etc… I had never heard of them until today but their hold department seem to be kicking along nicely with many different hold sets, volumes, and training holds. Especially interesting is the hollow back they are doing on smaller holds. HRT also does this on a variety of hold sizes and Three Ball has done it on smaller volumes.

So Didak will now be on The Big Hold Company List :: Europe and The Big Hold Company List :: ALL

http://www.didak.com  ~  011.34.620.64.77.33  or via website  ~  Balenyá, Spain

Just a note – so far I have zero experience with this company or their holds, but I do think some of them look cool. Anyone got any experience? If so please share. Thanks!

Setting Update for 6/26 and 6/27 + A Bad Sunburn + POTW + More Holds For Sale! + New Teknik Holds!

June 27, 2012 2 comments

Setting Update

This week we reset the Font!  Me, Jay Jay, Danny, Jon, and Gabor were here for both days, Nic was here for half of Tuesday, and Jonny was here all day Wednesday. We put up a bunch of problems of all grades including several easier slabs that challenge different techniques than the normal easy slab will. Here are some pictures of the boulder.

Ha Ha Danny

This is why you should wear sunscreen when you go bouldering at The Park!

ouch!

Problems Of The Week

POTW #1 – Jay Jay set this little gem. Neon green tape. Starts on yellow pinch, moves out mini roof to pink pinch, out right through purple and yellow pinches, up to two green crimps, left to an orange HRT blob, and top. Requires a bit of technique and forethought. Great!

POTW #2 – Danny’s white problem with the most excellent perch move. Starts bottom left of this face on the 2nd start hold from the left, moves right through the big green Talon, up to a new red Teknik pinch, out left on another new red sloper and a pink pinch (use your technique!), left to a crimp and up. Balance!

More Holds For Sale!

We found a few more when we were stripping and resetting this wall, so the table has been refreshed.

There are some real classics here!  Some are just not fit for gym use anymore because of broken washers, chips, cracks, or other things that are easy to work with on a home wall but not a commercial facility. Others we have duplicates of, or…well, there are lots of reasons. These are a great deal though and won’t last, so get ‘em before they’re gone!

And finally…New Teknik Holds!

Joy!

More Joy!

I will be out of town for a few weeks but the boys and Jay Jay will be around and setting great new problems for you every week. Enjoy!

The Spot on Sean McColl’s blog

June 26, 2012 Leave a comment

This post is a bit late, but Sean McColl visited the Spot for some training before the Vail World Cup and he linked to us on his blog. Thanks Sean!

Click the screen shot above to read Sean’s excellent blog about the Vail World Cup and all the other events so far this year.

New Hold Company – Escape Climbing

June 22, 2012 Leave a comment

We’ve just added Escape Climbing to the Big Hold Company List. Here is their info. Check ‘em out!

www.escapeclimbing.com | 715.905.0260 | Minneapolis, MN

Categories: 2012, Holds, New Holds!

Setting Update for Wendesday 6/20 + New E-Grips!!!! + POTW + Hold Sale

June 20, 2012 Leave a comment

Setting Update & New E-Grips!

Jay Jay, Danny, Jon, Jonny, Nic, Gabor and I filled in a bunch on the Beach today, so you will have plenty of problems to work on and send. In super exciting news, we got not one but TWO new shipments of holds today. First were from The DRCC (see photos here) and second were from e-grips!  Here are pics of a few of the e-grips holds we got–the brand new black “big buttons” were even shaped by Spot Setter and longtime hold shaper Ian Powell.

Some of the big buttons

More Big Buttons

These things are really comfortable and cool to hold. We also got a bunch of these balls things but I only have a photo of one of ‘em:

We got a set of these too. Look for some on the left wall.

Here are some photos of the wall:

Problem of the Week

The 4-5 spot problem of the week is the blue 5 spot up the center prow that was set by Danny and Jay Jay. It is Jay Jay’s first 5 spot!  She helped Danny so she can learn to set more hard problems as well as expand her style in her normal setting.

The 1-3 spot problem of the week is Danny’s purple 3+ on the far right side of the Beach.  This problem is more technical than powerful so check it out and use your balance to succeed.

Hold Sale

We are selling some of our older holds. Some are chipped, some are multiples, some just don’t suit our needs. They are priced as marked and are on a table by the front desk. If you are looking for holds come get ‘em before they’re gone! We will use all the proceeds to buy even more cool new holds!

New DRCC Holds!

June 20, 2012 1 comment

We got replacements for the Crescent Moons we sold to the Austrian Climbing Team, plus some more new grips. The mini dual-tex set are sweet!!!

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Categories: 2012, DRCC, Holds, New Holds!

Quick Setting Update Tuesday June 19th

June 19, 2012 Leave a comment

We got to work on the Beach today. All stripped, and some new problems set. More tomorrow, stay tuned!

Categories: Setting Update

Quick Setting Update

June 18, 2012 Leave a comment

If you haven’t been into the Spot since last week you may not have seen the new Dojo. Jon, Nic, Gabor, Jay Jay, Danny, Jonny, and I put up a bunch of cool new problems including some awesome contributions in the roof from Jon, Danny, Gabor, Jay Jay and Jonny and some sweet dynos from myself and Danny to one of the most comfortable jugs ever made (the DRCC Slug on the left side of the right wall just where it hits the roof). Enjoy!

This week we set the Beach, so send your projects today!

Categories: 2012, Setting Update

Setting Update 2 Weeks

June 12, 2012 Leave a comment

I still haven’t finished with the World Cup posts. I have spent some 30+ hrs driving in the last week, been in a wedding, and had nearly no internet access. I will finish updating when I have a chance.

On another note, we skipped a week of setting the week of the World Cup. Today I saw no less than 3 notes from customers asking that we set more problems.  We appreciate that you guys love to see new problems each week, and we always do our best to give them to you. Very occasionally we will need to take a week off. Otherwise you can expect at least one wall reset each week.

Last week Danny, Jon, Nick, and Jay Jay, plus Gabor for one day and Jonny for one day, reset the River Wall. You will be excited to see that we got some sweet new Motivation Volumes and an awesome set of Teknik Pinches. Look for the pinches on the River Wall (hint: they are big and orange) and see some of the volumes on the River Wall and the rest will probably end up on the Dojo this week since we have little self-restraint when it comes to new holds. All the volumes are bolt-on, which is best for our walls since we can’t really put screws into them. Here is what the River Wall looks like:

The New Left River

The River Arete

The New Right River

We set the Dojo today and will fill-in tomorrow.  Enjoy!

Vail World Cup 2012 – Media Wrap Up

June 6, 2012 1 comment

Sean McColl and Anna Stohr on Final 4

The 2012 IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado, was a great success. Eighty-nine competitors from France, Mexico, The Netherlands, Korea, Japan, Austria, Hungary, Slovenia, Great Britain, Germany, Australia, Finland, China, Canada, and the USA did their best as the field was whittled to 40 semifinalists, then 12 finalists, then finally to the two who stood atop the podiums as champions.
As the home country, America was allowed to fill extra spaces in the competition with home team climbers. Former Vail World Cup champions Alex Puccio, Alex Johnson, and Daniel Woods were joined by a large American team including many names you will recognize from Spot Series Comps–Angie Payne, Tiffany Hensley (a Spot coach!), Nina Williams, Tyler and Jesse Youngwerth, Chauncenia Cox, Lizzy Asher, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Carlo Traversi, Matty Hong, Michael O’Rourke, Alex David Johnson, Matt Wilder, Garrett Gregor, and Austin Geiman. Rounding out the team were Cicada Jenerik, Delaney Miller, Josh Levin, Alex Fritz, Josh Larson, Zach Lerner, Michael Bautista, and Ethan Pringle.
The problems were exciting to watch and seemed to truly divide competitors as they were challenged on many different styles of climbing. The slabs were inventive and challenging, the dynos were large, and more than one competitor looked hopeless, only to pull off a send at the last second to the screams of the crowd.
When the dust settled it was Austrian champions Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber atop the podiums, with Canadian Sean McColl and German Jan Hojer rounding out the Men’s podium and Briton Shauna Coxsey and German Jule Wurm in 2nd and 3rd for the women.  The only two Americans in finals were Alex Johnson, who took 4th and Alex Puccio, who took 5th.

 

Here is all the media we have posted on this event. We will update this page as we add more media.

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A Couple of Photos mid-event

Intro + Men’s Qualifiers UPDATED

Women’s Qualifiers

Men’s & Women’s Semifinals

Women’s Finals 3 & 4

Final Results and Podium Shots

Finals Live Feed Video

Article from Sean McColl

Other Media

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