2012 IFSC World Championships – Men’s Bouldering
Kilian (2nd), Dmitrii (1st), Rustam (3rd)
The stage, the crowd, and the walls all looked incredible at this event. Dmitrii is World Champion, Kilian won silver, and Rustam Bronze. The other three finalists were Canada’s Sean McColl, Germany’s Jan Hojer, and Japan’s Rei Sugimoto.
Here are some random shots and info from finals:
Men’s 1
Everybody flashed but Dmitrii, who flashed to bonus, then fell 3 times before getting top on his 4th go. This put him in last going into problem 2.
Men’s 2
Killian flashed, putting him in the lead. Sean got bonus and sent 2nd go, putting him in 2nd. If you get to the top without touching bonus you still get bonus points. Dmitrii got bonus and finished the problem 3rd go, giving him 1 send to match everyone else’s performance on men’s 1. Jan flashed to bonus but didn’t finish the problem. Rei and Rustam didn’t even get bonus.
Kilian flashing Men’s 2
Jan Hojer on Men’s 2. Looked good, then fell apart a second later.
Men’s 3
Mantle to difficult movement out right to bonus. Dmitrii took a brave tactic and flashed. Rustam got bonus and sent 2nd go. Nobody else really got anywhere, all falling on the rightward move to the bonus hold.
Rei Sugimoto struggling with the transition on Men’s 3
Rustam on the start mantle of Men’s 3
Rustam working his way around this cruxy corner on Men’s 3. These moves really shut the climbers down.
Rustam on Men’s 3. Not a great shot but LOOK AT HIS LEFT ARM!
Dmitrii leaning right…
Dmitrii leaned, leaned, and then sort of deadpointed right hand to the bonus hold while flipping left. He caught himself and sent for the flash.
Sean suffered here and didn’t make it to bonus.
Killian took a different tactic, but it still didn’t work.
Jan Hojer also suffered on this one.
Men’s 4
This problem was on the far right wall and was supposed to be fairly easy compared to the previous two. It certainly seemed to be the case as everyone sent, Dmitrii, Kilian, Rustam, and Jan flashing, Sean getting bonsus and send 2nd go, and Rei flashing to bonus but then falling and also sending 2nd go.
Rei flashed to bonus, then fell, then got back on and sent.
Rustam manhandling the volume.
Dmitrii sticking the move out left the same way Rustam did. This seemed to be the hardest move on the problem.
Sean McColl and wow look at the walls!
Sean after sending. He knew he didn’t win but he stayed a good sport for the crowd. Which is huge. Look at that crowd!
Kilian
Kilian finishing.
Jan Hojer and…crowd!
Jan
The End
All the competitors stood for the crowd. As they were going back behind the wall, Dmitrii’s girlfriend ran in and jumped on him. It was just like a sports movie. : )
Men’s Bouldering Finalists
Wow.
Dmitrii and his girlfriend
The Walls
Final Results
Next Up
Men’s paraclimbing, Blind 1 Division finals was up next and we watched 3 blind guys climb as far as they could up a 7B+ route with an assistant shouting (or using a headset and walkie talkie) to help them find their way. More on that in the next post.
Really the thing to do is to watch these live or watch the replays. Go here: IFSC World Climbing Championships 2012
