Home > 2013, Comps, Gladiator Finals, SBS 8 > SBS 8 Gladiator Finals! – Women’s Open Final Results!

SBS 8 Gladiator Finals! – Women’s Open Final Results!

Megan Mascarenas Gladiator Finals 2013 SBS 8 Women's Final by Katrin Bell

Megan doing a Megan-move to gain the T-Rex  |  Katrin Bell

The Problem

Jay Jay and I set the Gladiator Finals Women’s Open Final. Our theme was powerful moves on big holds. I’m pretty sure it was Jay Jay’s first final ever and it was the first one I set this season. We set it, we warmed up for forerunning, and with some effort I flashed it. I set it (so automatically easier for me) and I had just gotten back from a long trip to Hueco, but still, if I’m flashing the final it’s probably too easy.

Our start sequence was one of the issues, so incorporating some of the group’s ideas we took the large start hold/foot ledge off, put on some slopey-topped underclings instead, added a small crimp undercling to help the climbers get out right from the start underclings, and removed a right-handed pinch that had been useful to help the climbers bump left hand up to the first green So Ill feature (as a pinch/undercling). Now the start was harder. Next I replaced one of the big ledge-like jibs on the T-rex with a smaller slopey ball jib. Dialed up the first mini-rex so it was steeper. Tried to replace the low pink pinch for crossing to the first mini-rex, but nothing else was good enough to make the move work, so we left it. We wanted to make sure all the competitors would get up a little ways, but also that they’d have to try and that even the strongest would begin to tire themselves out climbing through it. Bottom, set.

The top took some dialing in as well, as I watched Jon Cardwell and Ian both hold the difficult body-opening swing at the top and we struggled to decide whether or not the women would be able to do the move–especially with their right hand on a pinch. I moved some holds around, ran the boys again, and finally committed to using a crimp instead for the right hand. By committed I mean I kept the crimp on the wall, kept the pinch handy in the setting closet, and panicked about whether or not I should change it until the moment finals started. Honestly, as is usual in this sort of situation, I sort of kept panicking, but after watching the results I’m glad we left the crimp on. I think with the pinch the move would have been a bit too stopper. As it was, it allowed a few through and stopped a couple more. Appropriate.

I’d also like to thank Sarah Fullerton for helping us forerun finals all season. Her help has been invaluable.

Sarah Fullerton Bierstadt Mount Evans Colorado

Sarah on Bierstadt at Evans

Thanks Sarah!!!

~

The Finalists

Nina Williams The Spot Gym SBS 8 Gladiator Finals 2013 by Page Kuepper

Nina Williams looking all kinds of strong on the very challenging O6 | Page Kuepper

The redpoint round left us with a separated field of women, most of whom had climbed A10-O4. All the competitors (youth and adult) who wished to have a chance to compete in finals were asked to climb in the adult session to negate the possibility that extra rest between sessions would give them an edge in finals. Their qualifier scores are still split into Youth and Adult however, so if you want to see the full qualifier round scores, you’ll have to visit YOUTH and ADULT. (Note – Megan’s quali scores are improperly in the Adult category, should be fixed next week.)

Top two qualifiers Megan Mascarenas (21,560) and Nina Williams (21,500) climbed O6, O4, O3, O2, and O1. They were separated by 6 falls (Megan had 4, Nina had 10).

The next 6 qualifiers climbed O4-A10 and were also separated by falls. We usually only take 6 to finals, but because of the men’s field we needed 7, and we had a tie for 7th so we took 8 in both fields. More fun for you to watch, and more stress for the setters to separate! Here are the other qualifiers and their qualifying scores:

3. Tiffany Hensley 21,000 – 0 falls – Spot Coach

4. Margo Hayes 20,990 – 1 fall – ABC

5. Isabelle Goodacre 20,980 – 2 falls – ABC

6. Mirthe Van Liere 20,960 – 4 falls – Darkhorse

7. Tika Anderson – 20,940 – 6 falls (tie) – Spot Team Captain

7. Laurel Todd – 20,940 – 6 falls (tie) – ABC Team Captain

~

Finals

Laurel Todd Team ABC Boulder SBS 8 Gladiator Finals 2013

Laurel Todd | Ryan Nadlonek

ABC Team Captain Laurel Todd came out first. She has been consistently squeaking into finals this season and always puts in a great effort on the final problem. She gracefully accepts the role of guinea pig as she has to figure out the problem with everyone watching her and no hint (from hearing other competitor’s attempts) of how far people are even getting on it. Laurel fought her way through the bottom, giving a faith-throw and hitting the jib on the t-rex, then matching and reaching out to the right undercling before falling. Next go she hit the t-rex wrong and fell, next go she fell moving to the t-rex. Score: 9th hold/1st go

~

Tika Anderson The Spot Gym SBS 8 Gladiator Finals

Tika pinching the bejesus out of the bottom moves. Dave Graham sticking the swing in the background. | Jackie Hueftle

Spot Climbing Team Captain Tika Anderson came next. She has won ABS Regionals and Divisionals so far this season and made some SBS finals as well. She and Laurel are usually neck-and-neck, and they were this comp when they tied in qualifiers. First go Tika had a bit of a rough start with the T-Rex, not hitting it quite right and falling when she tried to match. She rested, and to the roars of the crowd she rallied and hiked through the bottom of the problem, looking unstoppable as she crushed through the moves she’d previously fallen on, matched the undercling, and grabbed the high right crimp. At that point she looked good but was a little stuck and as soon as her body came out her foot slipped and she was off. Score: 11/2

~

Mirthe Van Liere SBS 8 Gladiator FInals 2013 The Spot Gym

Mirthe in the low-middle of the problem | Ryan Nadlonek

Mirthe Van Liere. Mirthe is a total darkhorse to Spot Series comps, as we’ve never had her in finals before (at least as far as I can recall). She climbed well in qualifiers and considering this was her first Spot final I thought she did very well, though first go she mistakenly grabbed an off-route hold. Ian called her off and it ruined her momentum as she had to start over, but she gathered herself and gave some good goes, managing to match the T-Rex before falling, then get through the T-Rex the go after that and fall matching the undercling. Her last go she was tired and fell early. Good efforts Mirthe!  Score: 9/3

~

Isabelle Goodacre 2013 SBS 8 Gladiator Finals Women's Final by Katrin Bell

Isabelle | Katrin Bell

Isabelle Goodacre. There isn’t much to say besides Isabelle hiked the problem in good style. It didn’t even really look hard for her. The crowd was yelling and I was sweating–I know Isabelle is a strong climber, but she made the problem look SO EASY that I was sure everyone else would flash it, especially because they heard the crowd and knew Isabelle had flashed. This can give competitors pressure but it can also give confidence–if someone lower in the rankings than you flashed something, you might think you can flash it too, right? I managed to contain myself and remember that anything can happen in competition, especially when it comes to finals. The crowd roared for Isabelle and Margo was up next. Score: Flash

~

Margo Hayes Team ABC Boulder SBS 8 Gladiator Finals The Spot Gym

Margo trying so hard to hang on. | Ryan Nadlonek

Margo Hayes started showing up in Spot finals a couple of years ago. She is a strong competitor who can be fueled by frustration, as we saw at Psychedelia when she made a mistake and fell early on the final, then got back on and crushed it. This time she came out strong and confident and did the early moves with ease. Unfortunately for Margo, when she did the big move to the T-Rex she missed both of the jibs and hit a bad slopey spot between them. She tried to stay on, but to no avail. Her body swung out and she was off. The start of the problem, as I said, is sapping, and so the first time it doesn’t feel so bad but with each subsequent try it makes you more and more tired. Despite this, Margo fought her way back through the volume, through the undercling, to the crimp Tika fell from, then jumped for the next pinch. She caught it, her body swung open, and she tried and tried to kick her feet back on but she couldn’t quite stick them to anything and she was off. Next go she went back to the crimp and fell trying to stick the pinch. Score: 12/2

~

Tiffany Hensley styling the bottom SBS 8 Gladiator Finals

Tiffany Hensley styling the bottom | Katrin Bell

Tiffany Hensley is a regular finals competitor and sometimes winner at SBS comps. She came into this final looking very strong and handily flashed her way to the pinch move Margo had fallen on. Like Margo, Tiff hit the pinch, stuck it, but as her body swung out she was unable to get a foot back on and eventually she fell.

Tiffany Hensley The Spot Bouldering Gym SBS 8 Gladiator Finals

Not a great picture but I’m sharing it so you can see how hard Tiff was trying to get her feet back on. Margo was much the same. The crimp and pinch just opened your body from the wall in a way that made it hard to recover if your feet came off.

Her next go was the same as Margo’s 3rd–she hit the crimp and jumped to the pinch but didn’t stick. Score: 12/1

~

Nina Williams SBS 8 Gladiator Finals The Spot Gym

Nina Williams | Ryan Nadlonek

Nina Williams has been on a roll this year. She’s really stepped up her competitive game, showing up on the podium at major pro events and winning all 3 previous SBS events this year–The Gun Show, Psychedelia, and Highlines/Highballs. She came out strong and though she looked to be trying hard on on the crimp/pinch cross, she managed to get her foot back on and finish the problem with a flash. Nice job Nina! Score: Flash

Nina Williams SBS 8 Gladiator Finals

Nina Williams sticking the hardest move | Katrin Bell

Nina Williams SBS 8 Gladiator Finals 2013 Women's Final by Katrin Bell

Nina Williams after the flash | Katrin Bell

~

Megan Mascarenas Gladiator Finals 2013 SBS 8 Women's Open Final

Megan Mascarenas holding the hard swing | Katrin Bell

Megan Mascarenas swept SBS 7 and for SBS 8 she has been just behind Nina. Our technical starts this season have been causing many competitors, Megan included, to make mistakes and fall early. This problem was a little more straightforward power, and with Megan’s lead from qualifiers if she flashed the final she’d win. If not, Nina would win. That’s a lot of pressure, but Megan handled it well, styling the bottom, holding the difficult swing on the crimp and the pinch (but it looked like she barely held it as her left hand slipped on the pinch) and finishing the problem for the flash and her first SBS 8 win.

Great job to all the competitors, especially Megan and Nina for their hard-fought battles for first place these past two seasons!

~

Results

~

8. Mirthe Van Liere

Mirthe Van Liere Women's Final Gladiator Finals 2013 SBS 8 by Katrin Bell

Mirthe moving out to the undercling | Katrin Bell

~

7. Laurel Todd

Laurel Todd Team ABC Boulder The Spot Gladiator Finals 2013 SBS 8

Laurel working out the bottom | Ryan Nadlonek

~

6. Tika Anderson

Tika Anderson 2013 Gladiator Finals SBS 8 by Katrin Bell

Tika Anderson | Katrin Bell

~

5. Margo Hayes

Margo Hayes Team ABC Boulder The Spot Gym SBS 8 Gladiator Finals

Margo trying for a bicycle to cross to the pinch. | Katrin Bell

~

4.Tiffany Hensley

Tiffany Hensley The Spot Gym Gladiator Finals 2013 SBS 8

Tiffany struggling to hold the pinch. | Katrin Bell

~

3. Isabelle Goodacre

Isabelle Goodacre

Isabelle Goodacre handily flashing the final | Ryan Nadlonek

Flashed the final but was last of the 3 flashers in qualifiers so 3rd overall.

~

2. Nina Williams

Nina Williams The Spot Gym SBS 8 Gladiator Final by Ryan Nadlonek

Always a good attitude from Nina!  |  Ryan Nadlonek

Flashed the final but 6 falls behind Megan in qualis means Nina ended up in 2nd.

~

1. Megan Mascarenas

Megan Mascarenas The Spot Gym Boulder SBS 8 Gladiator Final by Ryan Nadlonek

Holding the difficult swing at the top! | Ryan Nadlonek

Megan flashed and because she was 1st in qualifiers as well she won!

Megan Mascarenas SBS 8 Gladiator Finals 2013 The Spot Gym by Ryan Nadlonek

Megan!  |  Ryan Nadlonek

~

Thanks to all who came out to compete in or watch SBS 8 comps.

See you next season!

About these ads
  1. No comments yet.
  1. February 9, 2013 at 10:40 pm

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 10,033 other followers

%d bloggers like this: