Home > 2013, Comps, World Cup > IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Problem 2

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Problem 2

FInals #2 are the two problems on the left.

FInals #2 are the two problems being brushed on the left. Men’s is the slab, women’s is the overhanging power bloc.

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Women’s 2

Alex Puccio pressed up into the corner on the boss-looking slopers, got up over the lip, stuck what looked like a hard move over the lip to a crimp, foot up, pressed into an orange sidepull, lurched smoothly right hand to the finish hold. I thought it was her 2nd flash but the announcer says she did it 2nd go so I guess she must have fallen at the bottom once, or he is wrong.

Mina pressed through the bottom, then fell jumping over the bulge to the second orange crimp when she didn’t quite hit the hold right. The move looked hard for Alex as well. Next go she showed off her famous flexibility, heel hooked over her hand, rocked up, and static-ed the move. For the last move she went out to the arete (as the announcer suggested), came back, went back out, tried a high heel, rocked over, couldn’t quite get her hand to the finish hold, tried again, slipped off, done. It was a great effort and too bad she didn’t finish.

Katha came out, and the feed froze. So…suck. Not sure what is happening. The feed came back but I’m not sure what happened except Katha didn’t make the top.

Akiyo looked a little confused at the start, trying different positions before committing to leave the ground. When she did she got into the roof holds smoothly, stuck the jump to the crimp, made her way up to the top, toehooked left on arete, crossed to finish. Flash.

Anna got through the bottom, stuck the difficult crimp, went out to the arete, tried heel like Mina had, then went back and jumped to finish left hand, sticks, flash, back in 1st.

Shauna looked to be struggling getting out to the blobs, then got on them and looked good, then fell moving up to the first orange crimp over the lip. Fell again. Fell on slopers, seemed to be really struggling more with them than any other competitor thus far has. Got back out on them.  Fell again. No top.

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Men’s 2

The only slab in finals.

Jernej Kruder climbed the bottom ok but fell trying to stick the bonus hold.

Guillaume getting in position for bonus on Men's Final 2.

Guillaume getting in position for bonus on Men’s Final 2.

Guillaume used a different method and managed to balance his way to the bonus hold with a toehook. It looked like a fair amount of smear-campusing but he wasn’t quite able to stick the finish. Next go he again got through the bottom, left foot on light green triangle, finished! 1t2

Cedric slipped off the bottom, and then the feed froze. When it came back he was past bonus but I don’t think he finished.

Jakob flashed to bonus with his left hand, then came back down to move his body around and try to continue climbing. He slipped off.

Thomas comes from a different direction, heel hooking to go right hand to bonus, but he can’t get out of the position and falls. Again same thing. 3rd time same thing, he doesn’t seem to be learning from his positional difficulties once he’s got bonus, and since he’s already scored for it it’d be good to try something else probably. Fell again. Seemed to figure it out, went left to bonus and was leaning out right, fell, out of time. Done.

Dmitrii tried to get his balance but fell before getting bonus. Kept falling off. Tried for bonus both hands, as far as I saw couldn’t stick it.

~

I will probably add screen shots later to illustrate, but this is live, so this is what I have time to post now.

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