Home > 2013, Comps, World Cup > IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Semifinals

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Semifinals

Leah Crane of Team GB

Leah Crane of Team GB getting some bonus points

Semifinals Live Feed and Video

I didn’t watch semis but I’m watching the replay. You can too, here: IFSC Video Gallery. Men’s and Women’s finals are at the same time, so it’s one video for all. At the moment it’s the top video on the page. I’ll put a direct link in later.

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Photo

As you can see from the photo of Leah above, Team Austria has published a nice photo album, which you can see here:

first impressions – Men’s and Women’s Semifinal

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The Problems

The Semis problems

The Semis problems. From the far left, Women’s 1, Men’s 1, Women’s 2, Men’s 2, etc…

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Men’s Semi 1 seemed to have a large reach move (or at least much much easier if you were tall) that divided up the men pretty handily. You had to hold left hand on the arete, right foot low on the lower face, and stab up to the small pocket inside the e-grips 2tex vortex. Some, like Dmitrii Sharafutdinov and Jernej Kruder, who both made finals, reached it easily. Others, like Sean McCall and Rustam Gelmanov, weren’t so lucky. After semis Sean ended up in the painful position of 7th, Gelmanov took 8th.

Rustam all strung out on top of Semi 1. He wasn't able to make the match.

Rustam all strung out on top of Semi 1. He wasn’t able to make the match.

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Women’s Semi 1 was a delicate balance problem that got the women quite stretched out. It was good for adding falls, though it did get finished. Unfortunately, some of the stronger climbers, including Mélissa Le Nevé, were unable to get to the final hold. Melissa is often a finalist, but this time she ended up in 8th overall. Shauna Coxsey stood for a long time with the two tiny chips (you can see how small they are from the photo of Leah at the top of this page) and eventually made her way to the final hold for the flash. She went on to take 1st overall in this round.

Women's Semi 1

Women’s Semi 1

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Men’s Semi 2 looked super fun and powerful. It involved several big volumes on an arete. After the start you grabbed a small hold under the big orange death star, then did a double jump to the death star (right) and the cone (left). The death star looked very slippery and many fell there, others got a heel in and were able to continue squeezing to the finish. Slovenian Jure Becan, younger brother of 1st place qualifier Klemen Becan, was one who finished it, and though his other results weren’t enough to get him into finals, he still turned in his best Boulder World Cup finish yet with 17th. His brother Klemen didn’t have as good of semifinals as he had qualifiers, and ended up in 10th overall.

Men's Semi 2

Men’s Semi 2. Thomas wasn’t able to finish and took 20th out of 21 male semifinalists.

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Women’s Semi 2 started with a dynamic move to a right hand sloper (?) on the black triangle and a left hand catch hold, then turned into a twisty problem up a slightly overhanging wall to a committing but doable last move that lead to many exciting “will she stick it?!” moments. The answer for those who jumped seemed to be yes.

Two angles of Katha on Women's Semi 3

Two angles of Katha on Women’s Semi 3

Katha barely squeaked her way into semifinals, but she showed that she deserved to be there with a strong round that took her into finals in 4th place.

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Men’s Semi 3 looked like a short powerfest, jumpy like Semi 2 was. It dropped many climbers on the move to the orange sloper (where Klemen is below).

Klemen Becan on Semi 3

Klemen Becan on Semi 3

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Women’s Semi 3 looked pretty awesome. It had not one but two of those big EP teardrop comp volumes on it and after working off an orange volume and through some gastons the women had to wrestle their way up the teardrops (and an undercling) on an overhanging section of the wall. Katha fell off the last move several times trying to go right hand, others, more successfully, went with the right or with a left-hand cross and finished the boulder.

Shauna on Semi 3

Shauna on Semi 3

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Men’s Semi 4

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Women’s Semi 4 was the black and green problem. From holds on a large black volume it was technical moves through green volumes, a bonus hold, then some balancey moves on large green slopers to the finish.

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Results

tk

tk

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I will finish this after finals.

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