IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Women’s Qualifiers
These problems appeared to be Balance, Power, Power, Power.
Only Alex and Anna sent everything in Group A, and they are tied for 1st with 8 total attempts each. Alex took 5 tries on quali 1 (a mantle to stand-up on a slab) and then flashed the rest. Anna flashed 1 & 2, then took 3 tries each to send 3 and 4. Momoko Oda is just behind them with 3 flashes and a flash to bonus on problem 2, but she didn’t finish problem 2.
For Group B, Akiyo Noguchi looked casual, flashing the first 3 before taking 3 tries to send problem 4. Her score was the best of the round–4 tops in 6 goes, and she was one of only 3 Group B competitors to send all their qualis.
Just behind her was Shauna Coxsey, who flashed 1, 3, & 4, but epiced on 2 for a minute with 3 goes to bonus and 5 goes to top. She was the only person to flash Quali B4. Her score then is 4/8 just like Anna and Alex in Group A.
Third in Group B is Swiss climber Petra Klingler, who has been having an interesting season. She’s missed semis twice but made in in 1st place in Kitzbuhel, only to fall to 14th in semis and not make finals. In this quali she flashed the first 3, then took 6 tries to send problem 4, for a score of 4/9. Hopefully she has a successful semifinal as well.
I’d like to give some props to my friend Thomasina Pidgeon. Thomo is a Canadian climber, first famous from her ascent of the V10 Zero-Zero in Squamish in the early 2000s after only a couple of years of climbing, continually famous as the strongest female boulderer in Canada, who has sent many problems up to V12 outdoors and made many FFAs, and who is also the mother of a darling 6-year-old named Cedar. Two years ago around this time Thomo was sitting on my couch and we were watching the live feed of a bouldering World Cup.
“I want to do that.” She said.
“You should.” I said.
But she had some concerns. She isn’t a very dynamic climber. She’s not much of a plastic climber. She’s 10-20 years older than most of the competitors. She has a 6 year old daughter. Traveling to these comps is expensive, and there is no federation support. She has no trainer or physio. She doesn’t have much comp experience. Etc…etc… She also has a reputation to uphold, especially in Canada, and as a somewhat mysterious strong female boulderer, it’s risky to go out on a world stage and possibly prove that notion wrong. However, other older female competitors, some with children, helped Thomo see that it would be possible. She understood that competing is a different animal than outdoor climbing, and that if she went out and tried hard and failed, that wouldn’t change her accomplishments or abilities as a climber. If anything, she figured, she would grow from the experience.
Despite the difficulties and the risks, she decided to go for it–to push herself in a new way, to try competing, on ropes and in bouldering–and see what happened. In 2012 she earned a spot on the National team and competed in the Vail World Cup, where she got 31st out of 41 women. Then she and Cedar got plane tickets to Europe, and off they went.
She’s not much of a rope climber, though she’s trying to learn that also. In July 2012 she competed in the Lead World Cup in Chamonix. She had a bit of a tweaked finger, and when things started to go south she grabbed a draw rather than hurt herself and took 55th. In Briancon she took 47th. In Imst in August she took 39th, and at the next event, a Bouldering World Cup in Munich, she took 35th. 47th in bouldering at the World Championships in Paris was her last event for the 2012 season. In 2013 she’s done as many Bouldering World Cups as she can get to, with 40th in Millau, 51st in Kitzbuhel, 35th in Log Dragomer, and now 53rd in Innsbruck. She’s learning from each experience, and for all of us armchair World Cup viewers, her blog is well worth reading:
I’d like to say great job to Thomo for being so brave. The fact that she’s competing is super inspiring, and I hope she continues to compete, learn, and enjoy herself, and hopefully she’ll find her way into semifinals one of these days!
Women’s Quali Results
20 women are going to semis.
Full Women’s Quali Results
Re-watch the Live Feed