Home > 2013, Comps, World Cup > IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Men’s Finals UPDATED

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Men’s Finals UPDATED

Men’s 1

Dyno 1 arm is the show move. Stand up on start holds, jump left, basically campus to top. Everyone did it easily.

Kilian styling the dyno

Kilian styling the dyno

Dima on the bottom of 1

Dima on the bottom of 1

Jan at the top of Men's 1

Jan at the top of 1

~

Men’s 2

Lots of volumes up an overhanging wall. Start with right pinch and left on arete. Move through volumes, stand up to an undercling triangle volume, grab another triangle volume, match, done.

GG on the bottom of 2

GG on the bottom of 2

Dmitrii

Dmitrii low middle on 2

Jan pushing up into the volume.

Jan pushing up into the undercling volume.

Kili using alternative beta to get up on the undercling

Kili using alternative beta to get up on the undercling

Jorg at the top of 2

Jorg at the top of 2

Sean matching the finish.

Sean matching the finish.

Jan Hojer beasted it right off (apparently actually 2nd go, he slipped 1st go). Dimitrii flashed. GG flashed. Kilian flashed. Jorg flashed too. Sean flashed.

~

Men’s 3

Mantle, volumes, undercling left, drive by right hand to red triangle out left. Match onto bonus hold jib, move to jib on upper triangle, lean over to last hold.

Dmitrii on the bottom of 3

Dmitrii on the bottom of 3

Kilian getting set up for the drive by

Kilian getting set up for the drive by

GG doing the drive-by on the middle of 3

GG doing the drive-by on the middle of 3

Kilian about to fall off trying to stick the upper part of the volume.

Kilian about to fall off trying to stick the bonus hold jib on the upper part of the volume.

Sean having the same problem

Sean having the same problem. He looks good, but he doesn’t stay on.

Dmitrii matching the jib to move to the last hold.

Dmitrii did. Here he is matching the jib to move to the last hold.

Dmitrii at the top of 3

Dmitrii sticking the top of 3

Jan Hojer came out and flashed easily. Commentators are speculating the problems are too easy.

Dima started strong, climbed most of the way up, fell, fell again. Sent.

GG came out, fell on drive by. Again. Again.

Kili fell off. Again. Apparently you fall doing the move after the drive by if you don’t keep your right foot on the large yellow orb. He does the drive-by, bumps right hand off, jumps and left hand hamhock, slides off trying to stick it. Last go, same thing. Bummer.

Jorg had much the same experience as Kilian. Stuck the cross. Couldn’t stick the match.

Sean came out last. Looked strong on bottom and drive-by, fell like Jorg and Kili trying to stick the match on the volume. They do a nice jump to the bonus hold/jib on the volume, but all seemed to slip off pulling up to stick it. Sean didn’t send either, and so now the field has flipped.

Results after Men’s 3

The people who are tied below are broken up by countbacks to semis.

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 1.14.09 PM (2)

~

Men’s Final 4

This problem looked pretty straightforward. Thugging on volumes up a steep wall.

Jan Hojer came out first and if he flashed he’d win. He flashed. climbed it quickly, he’d win. Apparently he fell from the start once before sending, but it didn’t show on the live feed. When he got to the top he knew he’d won, and he looked ecstatic. He wins! First gold in a Bouldering World Cup for Jan.

Jan the Champion

Jan the Champion

Dmitrii sent it 2nd go. This should keep him in silver.

Dima sending Men's 4

Dima sending Men’s 4

GG sent as well but not fast enough. He knows it, and he’s pretty disappointed as he waves to the crowd and walks off. Jorg sent, not sure how quickly. Sean sent as well but not fast enough. Kili flashed and he gets bronze.

Guillaume at the end of 4.

Guillaume at the end of 4.

~

Men’s Final Results

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 2.10.18 PM

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 1.44.29 PM (2)

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (2) Jan Hojer (1) and Kilian Fischhuber (3)

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (2) Jan Hojer (1) and Kilian Fischhuber (3)

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  1. gsmith
    May 18, 2013 at 1:22 pm

    Men’s 3 looked kinda reachy, at least to keep a foot on the yellow volume/orb out right. Maybe why Hojer had more success than Mccoll?

    • Jackie
      May 18, 2013 at 9:16 pm

      Kilian, Jorg, and GG also had that problem though, and they should be tall enough. It seemed to me like the volume jib just got slippery or something cause after Jan and Dima nobody could stick it.

  1. May 18, 2013 at 9:29 pm

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