IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #6 – Toronto – Women’s Quali Problems
There was one set of 5 boulders for qualifiers for the entire women’s field.
Part of the way through qualis the announcers said it started to get a lot hotter in the venue. That probably made what looked like a difficult set of problems feel even more difficult.
Later when they interviewed Alex Puccio she said it was really hot while climbing, there were no fans, and the volumes were really hard to hold on to because your hands got quite sweaty. She suggests fans for the boulder problems for tomorrow to help the problems stay cooler. She also said the crowd is fantastic, loud and enthusiastic, and the last Canadian World Cup was just as loud and enthused.
Women’s Quali 1
A short balancy problem starting on a purple volume. Step across a shallow wide corner to another purple volume, lean over or lurch to a left orange gaston and a right press on a large Teknik blob, feet over, right foot up onto another teknik blob or heelhook on the big one, higher right hand available (looked pretty bad, for balance only) stand up on the large blob to match the finish hold in the roof in an overhead press.
Most of the stronger competitors that we watched hiked this one or hesitated and then got through it. As the round progressed people began to have trouble finishing this but, appropriately, it still got done the most of the qualifiers.
Women’s Quali 2
Steep up an arete. The commentators said this one would be the hardest of the lot, but it didn’t prove to be true. Start under the left side of a roof on purple jug with feet on the sidewall, gaston right in roof, left pinch or sidepull in roof, lurch over the angle change to the bonus hold on the headwall, a slopy looking orange pinch. Lurch left around the arete to a large blue Revolution volcano.
Thuggy move up left to side pull around arete, up right to hold on a green triangle volume.
Up left hand first to top hold which is directly above the volume so you have to move up and around the arete to get to it.
Seemed like you could either heelhook lock these moves or pogo or jump through them.
Most of the top competitors did this easily, but Jule Wurm had trouble working with the bonus hold and she didn’t end up finishing.
Women’s Quali 3
Start on the other side of the roof from Quali 2, looked jumpy and powerful. Holds on a volume, a few in the roof…
…turn around, bicycle feet, power move to a jug on the bottom of another volume…
…cross to a jug undercling also on the volume, jump to a sloper on the headwall. This move looked cruxy.
Feet on the volume jugs, balance up through two smaller holds to the finish.
Looked like a leg press for the last move and balance to match it.
This problem looked similar to #2 in terms of how competitors were doing on it. All the strongest hiked it, except Jule, who didn’t finish it.
Women’s Quali 4
Big purple volumes on a roof. Start, move up to a blue diamond sloper pinch and left to another volume. Match other volume, shift up on it until you get bonus, a jib screwed to the top corner of the volume.
Up to a hold on another little triangle volume.
Jib on a circle volume.
Thug jump to finish.
This one proved to be the most difficult of the lot. Anna Stöhr came out and didn’t even make bonus despite lots of effort. Akiyo Noguchi came out next and hiked it. She pressed thorough the bottom easily by matching the blue diamond, dropping down to the 2nd big volume, matching, flipping a hand to a reverse hamhock, changed to a shuffle up the volume, reached over to the bonus, then up to the higher volumes. It didn’t even look like she actually grabbed the last hold, but she stuck it somehow, swung out on it casually, came back in, matched, done. Puccio didn’t get bonus, unless they counted her touching it with her foot. She put in a lot of good efforts but couldn’t solve the bottom. Jule Wurm made bonus, then didn’t get the next hold. Shauna Coxsey didn’t get anywhere. Momoka Oda looked good to bonus, didn’t finish. Melissa Le Neve also managed this one. Katha got bonus. Besides them I didn’t see anyone else really get anywhere on it.
Women’s Quali 5
Farthest right on the wall. Large green volume with holds on it to start. Up to two large orange slopers that I can’t identify for make.
Cross to the bonus hold – a sloper on a large purple volume. Match, up to another sloper on a purple triangle volume. Step up and lurch or power to lip.
Shift along lip to finish spot. Match.
Anna fell from the top, then finished. Alex Puccio hiked this, doing the top really easily by shifting along the lip to the finish instead of just jumping for the finish spot.
Women’s Quali Results
Not sure where Akiyo fell, but she only fell once and she finished everything for first place with 5 tops 6 tries, 5 tops 5 tries.
Next up was Melissa Le Neve with 5 tops 9 tries, 5 bonus 8 tries.
Shauna and Puccio tied for 3rd with 4 flashes each. Neither made any headway on problem 4 so no score for that one.
Anna Stöhr’s fall at the top of problem 5 puts her in 5th here with 4 tops, 5 tries.
Interesting about this round – the 12th place to 20th place competitors made semifinals with only a single top in qualis. Not sure if this means qualis were too hard, or the field just wasn’t deep enough, as the top competitors were all fairly close together (minus problem 4).
The heat was probably big factor as there looked to be a lot of sloper and volume climbing here and when it is hot those types of holds often feel impossible.
Nice job to Sierra and Megan for squeaking through in 19th and 20th places!
Men’s qualis start at 4pm Toronto time.