Home > 2014, Comps, World Cup > 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup #5 – Toronto – Final 3

2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup #5 – Toronto – Final 3

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F3

Alex at the bottom of W3.

Alex at the bottom of W3.

Shauna at the top of W3.

Shauna at the top of W3.

Dual-tex sidepulls and stand up on left foot volume with left hand around arete, cross or bump to holds on a little volume without swinging off, move up to high volume over lip, match or just pull through to final hold.

Julija looks good, balances around the corner and jumps for a hold and misses. Gets up and sends. Nice!

Alex does what Julija did first go, works around corner and tries to jump but misses. Again with a hop with her left hand. Again. Finally sticks it! Up to high volume, matches, looks to be slipping but makes it! Top.

Jule tries the cross first go, falls off. Goes left again, nearly sticks but falls off. The problem has heel-hook inhibitors so you can’t heel or step on the start holds. She goes left again, falls. Finally sticks it. Finishes.

Miho goes left and nearly sticks. Sticks next go. Next move is huge for her but no problem, she basically one-arms it. Amazing.

Shauna goes right instead of crossing but swings off. Sends next go.

Akiyo crosses and bumps out left hand to catch herself. Gets high volume and everyone has finished from here, Akiyo does too. 2nd go send.

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M3

Rustam stemming out under the roof.

Rustam stemming out under the roof.

James Kassay working for it. He tried really, really hard, but didn't quite manage.

James Kassay working for it. He tried really, really hard, but didn’t quite manage to match the finish.

Jongwon using the heel to match.

Jongwon using the heel to match.

GG sending Men's Final 3.

GG sending Men’s Final 3 by successfully sitting on the blob.

Press out under a roof on slopers, get huge dragonball above the lip, sit on it to match the undercling finish.

Guillaume works his way around the feet by pressing against the hold under the roof, gets out and onto the large dragonball, tries to sit on it to get both hands out, looks really tangled up, got it with one hand, looks very uncomfortable but manages to match it for the flash. As soon as he’s scored he shifts position to sit properly and takes both hands off. Ha. Flash. Nice.

James gets out of the roof and to the big dragon ball and tries to sit but from the opposite direction that GG did. Like GG he gets one hand to finish but can’t reach with both. He’s got a major calf bar. He unwinds and drops off, then tries to spin the other way and get his other leg up. Can’t goes back to the first way. Back and forth. Finally drops off.

Rustam shuffles under the roof, throws to dragonball, misses and falls off. Rustam hits the dragon ball but it looks really hard. Gets on it, throws heel up, rocks up off heel and tiny right hand crimp, falls but catches himself, tries to rest with a toehook on the ball. Tries the heel again, falls.

Jongwon nearly falls under the roof but catches himself with an impressive display of tension. Then he falls. Goes again, falls going to dragonball. Gets back on, gets the dragonball, rocks up on the heel like Rustam was trying but makes it work, perches on it and matches the finish. Awesome!!!

Sean presses out nicely, looks uncomfortable under the roof, goes out toe first to dragonball, then gets up on it. Tries to sit up on it the same way James did. Drops down, flips around, goes the other way, is trying to figure out how to get up on it and then looks up, sees the finish hold just above him, gets his balance and presses in to match it. FLASH!!!

Jan gets out to the dragonball easily, grabs the crimp, realizes he can’t get up, is just manhandling it, tries to straight mantle it, tries again, can’t get up on it, keeps catching himself, probably pumped now, tries left heel/calf rock, gets knee up on it, coming in from right like James tried, not fitting, falls off. Goes again, tries mantle, no, then has a slightly better leg wrap, no, falls again. 3rd go tries to mantle again, still not working. He just can’t quite get over it. Falls again. No send.

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Categories: 2014, Comps, World Cup

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