Home > 2014, Comps, World Cup > 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup #5 – Toronto – Final 4

2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup #5 – Toronto – Final 4

~

F4

Akiyo Noguchi matching the finish for the flash and the gold.

Akiyo Noguchi matching the finish for the flash and the gold.

Steep roof, looks like you start feet-out and match your hands up, then probably spin around and go up the headwall on huge slopers.

Julija falls off. Falls again. Tried to go feet-first out and it wasn’t working. First try went feet down and that didn’t work either. Goes feet out 3rd go, does two moves and falls. Next go gets a few hand moves out, looks better, then falls. Falls trying to get on forward. Falls trying to get on backward. Done.

Puccio often destroys on roofs, so it’ll be fun to watch her on this. Starts backwards, loses her toe so campuses, spins around, looks good, jumps out, feet cut but she holds on, does a lemay left foot (upsidedown toe hook) to chalk, grabs a sloper, pulls up on it looking like it’s hard, slowly crosses to huge sloper at top of first headwall, rocks up to the undercling volume at the top, flash! Nice.

Jule gets above roof, tries bumping instead of crossing to the last big sloper, nearly sticks but falls.   Again gets above roof, falls on the same move trying to cross. Falls in roof. Done.

Miho gets out roof but falls on jump out right. Again. Again. Done.

Shauna falls on jump move. Next go falls trying to get hands different as she spins around. Next go does better, gets the jump, up to the first sloper over the roof (bonus), with a figure 4. Pulls across, crosses to top sloper, looking very strong now. Mantles easily and matches for the send.

Akiyo looks great, moving slow and in control and seems to be unshakeable and she presses up to the finish hold. Flash. Win.

~

M4

James Kassay all widdershins.

James Kassay all widdershins.

Holds with a left heel or toe around a bulgy arete, cross left hand up, move right out holds on volumes across a roof.

Mondet looks strong, pulling over to holds on volumes in a roof, gets to top easily. Flash.

James falls on the start. Next uses left heel high above his hand, matches instead of crossing, then moves out right. Falls. Goes again, falls on the campus move to the last volume before the finish. Falls again on start, he’s done. Looks like he may have gotten very tired on the last problem.

Rustam statics his way thorough the bottom and pretty much hikes up through the volumes, heel hooks instead of campusing to last volume, finishes for the flash.

Jongwon starts out trying to go right, changes his mind and tries left hand, then falls. Goes left hand next go and then gets down onto volume with heel like Rustam did, then drops heel and tries to campus like James, misses, off. Goes again, tries to pinch volume instead, off. Done.

Sean flashes. It looks casual. He does the huge campus move and gets over the top of the hold James and Jongwon didn’t hit. Knows he’s got it and the crowd goes crazy. Awesome.

Jan goes with left heel and cross, looks like his shoe pops off and he falls. The fall cost him the win, Mondet now is ahead via attempts. Jan hikes the problem 2nd go for silver.

About these ads
Categories: 2014, Comps, World Cup

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 9,781 other followers

%d bloggers like this: