Sorry it’s taken so long to write up the women’s finals and the rest of the comp, we’ve been really busy resetting. Women’s finals will be up soon–later today or tomorrow night.
If you’ve been in the gym, you’ll see we’ve got new problems up on the Font, River, Dojo, and Back Hueco boulders. More on the Hueco and maybe the Beach tomorrow. Also, Danny will be gone for about a month–he’s headed to France to climb in the World’s Greatest Bouldering Area. Have fun Danny! Today was his last set til he gets back, and he and Connor apparently called each other before work this morning, so Annie took this photo:
More Comp Photos
Several talented photographers were on hand and took some great photos of all rounds at The Gladiator Finals. You can see most of the ones we’ve seen on The Spot Facebook page. You can also link to albums from the photographers. Here are a few shots with links at the bottom in case you haven’t seen ‘em yet.
Stay tuned, more coming soon!!!
Quick Update – Highballs & Highlines Comp This Weekend! + Reset Schedule + Hold Sale Ending Tonight!
If you’ve been in the gym at all you’ll know that we’ve already started setting for the SBS 8 Highballs & Highlines comp. This comp will be Saturday, and so far we’re really excited about the problems. Also, the highline slacklining is really sweet to watch, and as usual we have food, drinks, beer, a DJ, a gigantic sweet raffle, Pro Finals, etc… Hope to see you there!
This means that The Spot will be closed tomorrow for setting. Spot members can climb for free at the BRC tomorrow and Saturday (during the comp).
Sunday The Spot is open as usual.
Monday we will begin the reset, but we are resetting differently than usual. We will be running a mini onsight- style comp for our Youth Team and some of Team ABC. This onsight-style comp will help our kids get ready for Regionals the following weekend. We will be setting the mock comp on the Dojo and Back Hueco, meaning there will be new problems there Monday night, but they will be closed off to public climbing until probably 7 or 8pm (after the mini comp is over).
Tuesday and Wednesday we will set as well, and we should have fill on most of the walls by Wednesday 4pm-ish. We will probably do River/Font on Tues and Front Hueco and/or Beach on Wednesday.
Also, last chance on our used holds sale. We are selling them through 11pm tonight at $1 off current listed price. If they cost $1 they will now cost .50 cents. If you want ‘em, come get them before they’re gone!
So in the last week we’ve reset the River, Dojo, Hueco, and today the Beach. Tomorrow is the Font, and it’ll be open around four pm. We’ve set a ton of problems of literally all grades so come on in and finish those comp projects and try out all our new lines as well.
An Interesting Solution
A popular problem at the Gladiator Finals was the intermediate on the slab. This problem consisted of two big footholds low down on the wall that you could either perch on or jump off to reach the big yellow HRT volume. From there one had to smear on the wall or jump to a large yellow Ruckus cone hold and then mantle off the volume to finish on top of the slab. A few people mantled on the volume without using the cone at all. I almost set the problem that way, but I added the cone to make the boulder a mid-intermediate instead of a low advanced. In any case, this young woman found an interesting solution to the “how-to-get-to-the-cone” problem:
Highline Highball 2011 – The Rundown
The SBS 7 Highball Highline Comp fell on a cold and snowy weekend in the beginning of December. We were a little worried the bad snow conditions would limit attendance, but climbers can’t seem to spend a full day without activity and so people braved the icy roads and the comp was packed.
The problems were a mix of styles, with R10 involving a balance move at the top, I2 being a little steep but very juggy and flowy, I6 involving a trust move, I8 a technical pressing slab, I10 also a little steep and dynamic, A1 a balance-fest, A8 an incredible journey through the Dojo roof (don’t forget to clip!), A9 a stem, A10 involving a small dyno, and the Opens running the gamut from slopey and steep to the near-vertical volume testpiece of O10 on the right river wall.
When the dust from both sessions had settled the Highliners demonstrated their skills for the crowd (who were feasting on Wahoo’s tacos, pizza, and Avery beer) and we frantically added up scores to find out who our open finalists would be. It turned out that once again junior climber Megan Mascarenas from Colorado Springs had the most points in the female category so she qualified for open finals in first. Alex Johnson barely beat out Alex Manikowski and Matty Hong to qualify in first for the men. Both held on to their leads in finals to win the comp. For the full rundown on the finals click the Open Finals Results link below.
Here are the final results from the rest of the Highline Highball Comp in the Youth and Adult categories. I will write top competitors here and the rest can be seen at the links to the full results.
1. Sarah Josey
2. Ali Schultz
1. Matt Melton
2. Raleigh Burrell
1. Tracy Ng
2. Jade Sevelow
1. Luke Shaack
2. Russell Teabeault
1. Becca Bossert
2. Megan Cerise
1. Brian Moore
2. Cletus Blum
Open Female (pre-open final, adult session scores only)
1. Nina Williams
2. Tiffany Hensley
Open Male (pre-open final, adult session scores only)
1. Alex Johnson
2. Alex Manikowski
1. Bobbi Bensman
2. Diane Nickerson
1. Pete Youngwerth
2. Rob Gilbert
The Highline event was another fun demonstration from some very brave and balanced individuals. This year’s winner was none other than Emily Sukiennik (below) who won over the crowd with her skillful slacking.
Youth Climbing Results
1. Katelyn Hudspeth – Team BRC
1. Sean Morgan – Team Spot
1. Laurel Todd – Team ABC
2. Tika Anderson – Team Spot
1. Matt Lubar – Team ABC (Matt also got 6th in the Open Final)
2. Remi Arata – Team BRC
1. Megan Mascarenas – Team ABC (Megan also won the Open Final)
2. Isabelle Goodacre – Team ABC (Isabelle placed 4th in the Open Final)
1. Austin Lankford – Team ABC
2. Pierce McCrerey – Team ABC
1. Ivy Todd – Team ABC
2. Felina Jaeger – Team Spot
1. Timmy Dolan – Team ABC
2. Ethan Kruteck – Team ABC
1. Brooke Raboutou – Team ABC
2. Stella Noble – Team ABC
1. Joe Goodacre – Team ABC
2. Liam O’Brien – Team ABC
As usual, we set every day last week to get hundreds of new problems up for you to climb on. Every wall has been reset and next week we will continue to fill in. Setting will be light through the holidays and pick up to regular speed and density again shortly after the New Year.
Don’t forget to pre-register for Gladiator Finals! This last and best comp of SBS 7 will be held on February 4th. Click here to sign up or get more info: SBS 7 ~ Registration.
Highline Highball Media
SBS Highlines & Highballs Open Results + Commercials – Alex Honnold & Katie Brown, and Chris Sharma selling watches?!
Highballs & Highlines Open Finals Results
Yes, it was exciting. As usual. Three members of Boulder’s Team ABC made finals, giving the start of the finals some orange flair. On top of that, we staggered start times due to a men’s finals no show, so our 2nd girl ABC’er and 1st guy ABC’er ended up climbing at the same time. There was SO MUCH ORANGE! I’ll write up a longer rundown later, but til then here are the results:
1. Alex “Socks” Johnson (fumbled the accursed BEAR CLAW!)
2. Matty Hong (1 move below Alex)
3. Garrett Gregor (we messed up scoring a little at comp time, Garrett actually earned 7- so he should have been 3rd)
4. Alex Manikowski (6+)
5. Michael O’Rourke (6+, qualified lower than Alex M so in 5th actually instead of 3rd)
6. Matt Lubar (6+, last qualifier so in 6th here)
1. Megan Mascarenas (flash!)
2. Nina Williams (14-)
3. Tiffany Hensley (13-, top qualifier of the next 4 climbers)
4. Isabelle Goodacre (13-)
5. Gabi Masse (13-)
6. Jesse Youngwerth (7)
I can’t find any more pictures of it yet, so here’s a picture of Maddie in the youth section of the comp.
You may have seen this recent Citibank Ad featuring Alex Honnold and Katie Brown.
No, that is not Katie’s voice. You can read an interesting blog about how that all went down on Beth Rodden’s Blog.
But you probably didn’t know that Chris Sharma ditched his hot Spanish lifestyle and went climbing in Italy. Well, check this out:
He ties the rope, but did you see him use it?
We’re glad to see that climbers are finally getting paychecks from other industries!
Highballs & Highlines Results & Reset
We will be resetting Monday – Friday in the mornings. If you want to climb only comp style go to The Spot today. Tomorrow afternoon (after 4 is a safe bet) there will be at least 1 new wall for you. Etc. for the rest of the week until the gym is fairly full.
The rest of the SBS 7 Highballs & Highlines Wrap Up is coming later this week. Photos, full results, and more. Stay tuned, and see you at The Spot!
As usual after a big competition, the setters spent the week resetting as quickly as possible so you will have a ton of new stuff to climb on. Some of us were tired, some of us were sore, and some of us were a little goofy, but we got problems up on the whole River wall, the whole Dojo, the whole Hueco, and the whole Beach. Tomorrow the Font may see some problems, depending on the outcome of tonight’s Beta session. No, really, it just depends on everybody’s busy schedule. Anyways, here are some pictures from the last four days:
Jon put together this nice short video with highlights from finals and the slackline competition.
Setting Update 12/8 & 12/9
Here are a few photos from yesterday and today’s setting sessions. With our set of the Beach today we’ve got 4/5ths of the gym reset. Yay!!!
The Little Banana
I stopped at the store on the way home today for a few things, and I found these bananas, which struck me as funny:
Us. Newspaper. Ha!
Well, while we were going to lunch on the hill we ran into our buddy Greg Mionske who was out taking photos for the Colorado Daily (a local paper that reprints local, national, and international news stories and other little interesting bits that are aimed at college students). He took our picture for the society pages, and today, there we are! Check it:
Today we added problems all over the Hueco boulder. Now we have reset both sides of the River and Dojo and done light fill on the Hueco. Enjoy!
As usual, we began our reset on the river granite wall. Jay Jay was in school, so the team for Monday was me, Carlo, Jon, Jonny, Garrett, Danny, and guest setter Gabor Szekely.
Gabor has been a route setter on and off for several years and has also climbed up to 5.14d, onsighted up to 13d, and bouldered V13 outside. He occasionally competes as a member of the Hungarian National Team (his home country, though he was raised in the US) he got 18th at last year’s Vail World Cup.
We set some 40 boulders on the river wall, 1 spot to 5+ spot.
That’s right folks, we reset the Dojo! Carlo, Jon, Jonny, Garrett, Danny, me, and guest setter Connor Griffith (who just got back from Switzerland with Carlo and Jon) covered the Dojo in problems including several juggy climbs out the roof of varying difficulties and, on the left bulge, a slightly-easier simulator of a V13 from Black Mountain called Bang-On. Here are some pictures of the wall and the beginning of the simulator.
We stripped the stickers off the wall as we set the new problems on the Dojo. You may have seen some of ‘em stuck on ladders or in designs on our foothold bucket. Today I made a headdress out of some of ‘em.
Well, the reset stage 1 is complete. Today we set the Beach, and now we’ve put up new problems on every wall in the gym. All the Psychedelia hanging objects are down. Don’t despair though, cause we replaced the big hanging features with other moves so the finals problems still exist, they’re just slightly different now. Next week we’ll start adding problems to already set walls. We won’t start stripping ’til the first week of December when we set for the next comp, so you have ’til then to do your projects. Just so you know.
Lately a few people have mentioned grades, as in not being able to find as many problems of a grade as they’d like to see. We’ve made a big effort to keep a reasonable and regular grade bell curve in the gym, and with the reset we have approximately 168 boulder problems in the gym from 1 spot to 5+ spot. Bear in mind that some terrain won’t accept certain grades of problem, so in those cases we do our best so set jug hauls that may be graded 2, 2+, or even 3- but that will be doable with a small amount of climbing experience. Further breakdown, for the interested:
1-, 1, 1+ spots – 14
2-, 2, 2+ spots – 6, 9, 9 = 24
3-, 3, 3+ spots – 20, 12, 10 = 42
4-, 4, 4+ spots – 16, 17, 17 = 50
5-, 5, 5+ spots – 14, 10, 14 = 38
In the next 2 weeks before Thanksgiving we will keep filling in the gaps and adding to all the grades so everyone has new problems to work on up until the next comp. Enjoy!