Wednesday Nic was out and Garrett and I were back. Jon, Jonny, Carlo, Jay Jay, and Danny were there as well. We added a few problems to the left river and totally reset the right side. There are nearly 40 new problems including several 1 spots and 2+ spots. Below are pictures of the walls and a highlight from the newest taping revolution–the unicorn tail!
You may have seen these already, but if not:
This one is a trailer to end all trailers.
And next, we have Paul’s 10 day return to Boulder for some vacation time:
As usual after a big competition, the setters spent the week resetting as quickly as possible so you will have a ton of new stuff to climb on. Some of us were tired, some of us were sore, and some of us were a little goofy, but we got problems up on the whole River wall, the whole Dojo, the whole Hueco, and the whole Beach. Tomorrow the Font may see some problems, depending on the outcome of tonight’s Beta session. No, really, it just depends on everybody’s busy schedule. Anyways, here are some pictures from the last four days:
Remember last year’s men of routesetting calendar? Well, this year they’re back with better pictures, better captions, and a wider range of setters from across the country. You can download the calendar for only $2.99 and print it out at any local print shop for a few $ more. All the proceeds from the downloads will be donated to The Access Fund!
Jon put together this nice short video with highlights from finals and the slackline competition.
Setting Update 12/8 & 12/9
Here are a few photos from yesterday and today’s setting sessions. With our set of the Beach today we’ve got 4/5ths of the gym reset. Yay!!!
The Little Banana
I stopped at the store on the way home today for a few things, and I found these bananas, which struck me as funny:
So on Tuesday and Wednesday of this week we finished up the reset by adding a bunch of problems to the front and back of the Hueco Boulder. Thursday was spent filling in wherever needed. The highlight was definitely Wednesday afternoon’s discovery of the no hands, no feet start that was possible on the neon yellow boulder in the back Hueco scoop. We tested out several methods for starting this problem, including:
Whelp, I’m still out of town, and I’ve been trying to stay hands off the blog but since not much has been going on with it I’m going to share a few videos of my good friend Joel Zerr in some new areas we’ve visited in Tahoe.
Also, the Louder than 11 store is offering almost all their videos (including several short feature length pieces) for FREE!!! You can also get the highly-coveted Men of Routesetting 2010 Calendar! Free! Here is the official video teaser of the photoshoot:
So get to it!
Today we worked on the right side (the cave and the vert wall) of the Dojo. Because of the steep nature of the Dojo, it was hard for us to set very many easy problems, however, on the prow/arete on the right side of the cave there are a few new problems in the 3-/3 range. There is also a gigantic jug haul that goes straight out the roof from the back left corner, and it’s given 4- due to the angle and length, but the holds are truly gigantic the whole way. Carlo and a couple of other setters are going to come in tomorrow as well, and fill the wall some more.
I was going through my iphone pictures today and noticed a couple of pictures with something in common. The first two are Jay Jay, and a clever use of hold she came up with when we were joking around while setting the Font a few weeks ago.
From the side:
I think we’d all forgotten about this by today, but today Jon was putting the scarab up in the Dojo, and came up with this:
We’re calling him the Hunchback of Notre Dojo. He tends to the holds.
Today we set the left side (the bulge) of the Dojo, and tomorrow the right side (the cave) is going down. Then back up again. Cause that’s how we do. Jonny likes to chalk all the holds before we forerun, so the problems will feel more like they’ll feel after they’ve been climbed on a couple of times, instead of feeling slippery and frictionless like new and just-washed holds usually do. This makes it easier for us to grade ‘em more accurately. Today, while Jonny was minding his own business chalking up the new Boss, this happened:
JJ likened it to that scene from the movie Ghost. Ha. This sort of thing happens more often than you might think (unless you come in on Tuesday or Wednesday mornings, then you know this is relatively mild).
Anyways, in addition to the exciting new problems on the Dojo, I added a new page on the blog to (hopefully) better explain our grading system. It’s at the top, under “Spot Grading System” or you can just click here: Spot Grading System. We also re-named our “contact” to “Talk to Us” cause that’s what we want you to do there–general feedback, questions, suggestions, etc… Post-specific feedback can still go on specific posts, but for other stuff please try the Talk to us page. Thanks!