Setting Update for 8/25 & 8/26 + New Teknik + Rate Boulders + LOBSTER TAIL!

So we reset the Dojo. Also, Danny fixed a bunch of t-nuts, and Danny and Jonny mounted a tricky expedition to cut a Motivation Volume off the wall without damaging it too badly. They did damage the sawblade, but the volume came out of it alright. There are problems going out the roof from 3+ to 5+, including several jug hauls of varying difficulties, an extremely tensiony crimp masterpiece from Jonny and a powerful and dynamic boulder from Dave. The bulge and vertical wall have problems of all sorts. Here are some pictures:

Lubar atop the new left dojo

The new Dojo cave. Rich is staring at the lobster tail in awe. Jon…?

New right dojo. What is that big white hold? A lobster tail?! Scroll down to find out more.

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New Teknik!

 

So cool. Look for this on the left bulge and on one of the problems of the week (see below for details)

Sweet! Look for these on two problems, one on right dojo vert wall, one on left dojo bulge.

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Rate Boulders

We’re continuing our new boulder rating experiment. Jay Jay has tagged two boulders from last week’s River set and two from this week’s Dojo set. Incidentally, these are also last week’s problems of the week. They are all hard this week, next week we will have some easier boulders as well. Check ‘em out, fill out the sheets (available at the front desk) and drop them in the “suggestions” box on the wall between the bathrooms. We always appreciate other feedback as well. Thanks!

River POTW’s

#6 Left river, pink crimper problem, 5 by Jonny.

#5 Right River, red with arrow, 4+ by Jackie

Dojo POTW’s

#7 Left Dojo Neon Pink 5+ by Dave Wetmore. Tricky! Check out that bloctite feature!

#8 Neon Green 4 by Jay Jay

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LOBSTER TAIL!

That’s right, we’ve got our mitts on a brand new urethane blend Lobster Tail. This old Pusher dual-tex feature has been out of production for some time, and it used to be SUPER heavy. Well, now it’s back, and between urethane and a semi-hollow back it’s much lighter than the originals were. Check it!

Lobster Tail!!! Looks huge-r when anyone but Jon is grabbing it.

Setting Update for 6/26 and 6/27 + A Bad Sunburn + POTW + More Holds For Sale! + New Teknik Holds!

Setting Update

This week we reset the Font!  Me, Jay Jay, Danny, Jon, and Gabor were here for both days, Nic was here for half of Tuesday, and Jonny was here all day Wednesday. We put up a bunch of problems of all grades including several easier slabs that challenge different techniques than the normal easy slab will. Here are some pictures of the boulder.

Ha Ha Danny

This is why you should wear sunscreen when you go bouldering at The Park!

ouch!

Problems Of The Week

POTW #1 – Jay Jay set this little gem. Neon green tape. Starts on yellow pinch, moves out mini roof to pink pinch, out right through purple and yellow pinches, up to two green crimps, left to an orange HRT blob, and top. Requires a bit of technique and forethought. Great!

POTW #2 – Danny’s white problem with the most excellent perch move. Starts bottom left of this face on the 2nd start hold from the left, moves right through the big green Talon, up to a new red Teknik pinch, out left on another new red sloper and a pink pinch (use your technique!), left to a crimp and up. Balance!

More Holds For Sale!

We found a few more when we were stripping and resetting this wall, so the table has been refreshed.

There are some real classics here!  Some are just not fit for gym use anymore because of broken washers, chips, cracks, or other things that are easy to work with on a home wall but not a commercial facility. Others we have duplicates of, or…well, there are lots of reasons. These are a great deal though and won’t last, so get ‘em before they’re gone!

And finally…New Teknik Holds!

Joy!

More Joy!

I will be out of town for a few weeks but the boys and Jay Jay will be around and setting great new problems for you every week. Enjoy!

Setting Update for Wendesday 6/20 + New E-Grips!!!! + POTW + Hold Sale

Setting Update & New E-Grips!

Jay Jay, Danny, Jon, Jonny, Nic, Gabor and I filled in a bunch on the Beach today, so you will have plenty of problems to work on and send. In super exciting news, we got not one but TWO new shipments of holds today. First were from The DRCC (see photos here) and second were from e-grips!  Here are pics of a few of the e-grips holds we got–the brand new black “big buttons” were even shaped by Spot Setter and longtime hold shaper Ian Powell.

Some of the big buttons

More Big Buttons

These things are really comfortable and cool to hold. We also got a bunch of these balls things but I only have a photo of one of ‘em:

We got a set of these too. Look for some on the left wall.

Here are some photos of the wall:

Problem of the Week

The 4-5 spot problem of the week is the blue 5 spot up the center prow that was set by Danny and Jay Jay. It is Jay Jay’s first 5 spot!  She helped Danny so she can learn to set more hard problems as well as expand her style in her normal setting.

The 1-3 spot problem of the week is Danny’s purple 3+ on the far right side of the Beach.  This problem is more technical than powerful so check it out and use your balance to succeed.

Hold Sale

We are selling some of our older holds. Some are chipped, some are multiples, some just don’t suit our needs. They are priced as marked and are on a table by the front desk. If you are looking for holds come get ‘em before they’re gone! We will use all the proceeds to buy even more cool new holds!

Problem of the Week for Last Week (Beach) and this week (Font)

From the Beach we have my red 4 or 4-? up the middle of the right side. It largely uses last week’s new Teknik holds and has all the footholds you need.  Enjoy!

Starts in the right red streak, go up, left to the roof jugs, out the roof, left to the finish.

For this week, on the Font, we have two POTWs.  The first is Danny’s lovely black 4- up the left front prow that uses the large Climb-It tufa.

Starts at the bottom left of the pic on teal jug, goes up to the roof, then out right to the rabbit ears, then out right to the HRT undercling/sidepull, up to the big purple Climb-It tufa, out right to an orange pinch, and up to the summit. Consider a heel hook and remember to use toe tension!

Finally we have the 5 (or 5+) POTW, Jonny Hork’s green and pink sloper masterpiece up the front of the Font.

Starts low on the right arete, moves up and left through the green slopers with pink tape to the natural finish.

Setting Update for March 27th and 28th

We reset the Font! Me, Danny, Jon, and Nic, plus Jay Jay and Ian Powell on Tuesday and Gabor on Wednesday, stripped the Font and put up 46 new problems. Exciting features include several slabs, the spiky problem up the southwest arete, a new volume on the northwest arete with the other 1/3 of the Psychedelia bowling ball screwed to it (yes, you do jump to it, and yes, it is slippery!) and this, the problem of the week, a black 4- on the west face by Danny Ciavarro.

The start tape. Problem of the week, Black 4-, Font west face, Danny Ciavarro

The problem of the week runs up the blue holds with black tape through middle of this face and the blue e-grips face jug to the top. Enjoy!

And here are shots of the rest of the boulder:

You can see the yellow protrusion problem on the right arete and the bowling ball on the volume on the far left of this photo.

Problem Of The Week #1

This past week 8/16 and 8/17 we stripped and re-set the Dojo.  A total of 46 new problems were set and for the first time ever we have voted on a “Problem of the Week”:

Color: White

Setter: Garrett Gregor

Location: The Cave!

Grade: 4-

Jonny Hork having a blast on the Problem of the Week!