So we reset the Dojo. Also, Danny fixed a bunch of t-nuts, and Danny and Jonny mounted a tricky expedition to cut a Motivation Volume off the wall without damaging it too badly. They did damage the sawblade, but the volume came out of it alright. There are problems going out the roof from 3+ to 5+, including several jug hauls of varying difficulties, an extremely tensiony crimp masterpiece from Jonny and a powerful and dynamic boulder from Dave. The bulge and vertical wall have problems of all sorts. Here are some pictures:
We’re continuing our new boulder rating experiment. Jay Jay has tagged two boulders from last week’s River set and two from this week’s Dojo set. Incidentally, these are also last week’s problems of the week. They are all hard this week, next week we will have some easier boulders as well. Check ‘em out, fill out the sheets (available at the front desk) and drop them in the “suggestions” box on the wall between the bathrooms. We always appreciate other feedback as well. Thanks!
That’s right, we’ve got our mitts on a brand new urethane blend Lobster Tail. This old Pusher dual-tex feature has been out of production for some time, and it used to be SUPER heavy. Well, now it’s back, and between urethane and a semi-hollow back it’s much lighter than the originals were. Check it!
This week we reset the Font! Me, Jay Jay, Danny, Jon, and Gabor were here for both days, Nic was here for half of Tuesday, and Jonny was here all day Wednesday. We put up a bunch of problems of all grades including several easier slabs that challenge different techniques than the normal easy slab will. Here are some pictures of the boulder.
Ha Ha Danny
This is why you should wear sunscreen when you go bouldering at The Park!
Problems Of The Week
More Holds For Sale!
We found a few more when we were stripping and resetting this wall, so the table has been refreshed.
There are some real classics here! Some are just not fit for gym use anymore because of broken washers, chips, cracks, or other things that are easy to work with on a home wall but not a commercial facility. Others we have duplicates of, or…well, there are lots of reasons. These are a great deal though and won’t last, so get ‘em before they’re gone!
And finally…New Teknik Holds!
I will be out of town for a few weeks but the boys and Jay Jay will be around and setting great new problems for you every week. Enjoy!
Setting Update & New E-Grips!
Jay Jay, Danny, Jon, Jonny, Nic, Gabor and I filled in a bunch on the Beach today, so you will have plenty of problems to work on and send. In super exciting news, we got not one but TWO new shipments of holds today. First were from The DRCC (see photos here) and second were from e-grips! Here are pics of a few of the e-grips holds we got–the brand new black “big buttons” were even shaped by Spot Setter and longtime hold shaper Ian Powell.
These things are really comfortable and cool to hold. We also got a bunch of these balls things but I only have a photo of one of ‘em:
Here are some photos of the wall:
Problem of the Week
The 4-5 spot problem of the week is the blue 5 spot up the center prow that was set by Danny and Jay Jay. It is Jay Jay’s first 5 spot! She helped Danny so she can learn to set more hard problems as well as expand her style in her normal setting.
The 1-3 spot problem of the week is Danny’s purple 3+ on the far right side of the Beach. This problem is more technical than powerful so check it out and use your balance to succeed.
We are selling some of our older holds. Some are chipped, some are multiples, some just don’t suit our needs. They are priced as marked and are on a table by the front desk. If you are looking for holds come get ‘em before they’re gone! We will use all the proceeds to buy even more cool new holds!
From the Beach we have my red 4 or 4-? up the middle of the right side. It largely uses last week’s new Teknik holds and has all the footholds you need. Enjoy!
For this week, on the Font, we have two POTWs. The first is Danny’s lovely black 4- up the left front prow that uses the large Climb-It tufa.
Finally we have the 5 (or 5+) POTW, Jonny Hork’s green and pink sloper masterpiece up the front of the Font.
We reset the Font! Me, Danny, Jon, and Nic, plus Jay Jay and Ian Powell on Tuesday and Gabor on Wednesday, stripped the Font and put up 46 new problems. Exciting features include several slabs, the spiky problem up the southwest arete, a new volume on the northwest arete with the other 1/3 of the Psychedelia bowling ball screwed to it (yes, you do jump to it, and yes, it is slippery!) and this, the problem of the week, a black 4- on the west face by Danny Ciavarro.
And here are shots of the rest of the boulder:
This past week 8/16 and 8/17 we stripped and re-set the Dojo. A total of 46 new problems were set and for the first time ever we have voted on a “Problem of the Week”:
Setter: Garrett Gregor
Location: The Cave!
Jonny Hork having a blast on the Problem of the Week!