Final Problem 4
Women’s Final 4
First go Alex fell on the 3rd or 4th move. She got back on and climbed the boulder to the top, though it definitely looked hard and from the viewer’s perspective there was a question as to whether or not she’d fall off on nearly every move. She didn’t. Nice Alex!
Mina Markovic got up to the big orange death star / donut, squeezed her way up the arete, did some kind of kneebar to move to the top. I guess it was a flash? Nice Mina!
Katha did well on the start, then seemed to struggle moving out to the donut. She hesitated, then just skipped it, went to bonus, right toe in donut, basically just dynoed to the top. Didn’t look that hard for her. Done.
Akiyo doesn’t seem to be having as easy a time with this as she did with the last. She seems to struggle but keeps going slowly and finishes the boulder.
Anna went backwards to the first hold but matched it somehow and kept going up. She also ignored the donut for her hands, only putting a heel in it, and easily finishing for the flash and the win.
Shauna is last out. She looks strong, climbs the bottom well, probably the best anyone has done it. Up to bonus with an inside flag. Foot in the donut, up to the last holds, feet cut and she swung them around for a bit long, finally pasted right foot on, jumped, barely stuck the top but did. Flash.
Men’s Final 4
Jernej Kruder stuck the double dyno but fell after trying to get out right to the bonus hold. Next go he got bonus via 360 backwards spin, got over on it, moved his feet over left, heel hooked, spun back around, heel hooked other foot, stuck the next hold, then fell trying to stick the big red sloper up and left. Fell there again. Done. Final score, ot, 3b.
Guillaume stuck the double dyno. Moved out right to bonus. Sitting on left heel moves up right to blue mouth sloper, sits on heel more, up left to red sloper, sticks it, jump-crosses to finish hold but falls. Again, but this time stems out to other wall, matches on red sloper, falls. Again. Can’t quite stick the last hold. Done.
Cedric climbed through the bottom easily as Guillaume had, fell where Guillaume did moving to the finish several times. Made the match on the red sloper nicely with the foot out left, but fell jumping to the last hold. No send. Gets back on. Too tired. Done.
Jakob came out and fell from the double dyno. If he finishes the problem he will win the comp. Next go he got through bonus, did a sweet vertical toe-cam, fell. Went back up, STUCK LAST MOVE! Two tops. Wins!
Thomas can’t win, but anyone who does this problem will podium, so he still has a chance at silver or bronze. We didn’t get to see all his tries as Anna was busy winning, but when they go back to him you can see him having had the bonus and falling. Didn’t finish.
Last out, Dmitrii, who, if he flashes, could actually win the comp due to the:
The announcer just came on saying that Jakob’s start position for problem 3 has been deemed illegal so that top was taken away from him. They’re going to make him try to re-climb problem 3 and if he doesn’t do it he may not win. The Austrian coach is NOT HAPPY.
So Dmitrii has his turn. Not sure if he knows about the situation with the scores and Jakob. He flashes to the last move and falls. Dmitrii goes back up, is climbing the bottom easily. Matching the red sloper easily. Jumps to the end and finishes. He is in 3rd at the least. Podium!
Jakob last go on Final Problem 3
So Jakob has to climb again. This problem looks super hard and it is disappointing for everyone I expect that he has to climb it again, but he does, so everyone is waiting around for that to happen. It goes, he sends! He wins!!!
Being in Colorado and not Slovenia I slept through this round, but here are the finalists. Finals start in live broadcast in about 10 minutes at IFSC.tv.
1. Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FRA)
2. Rustam Gelmanov (RUS)
3. Kilian Fischhuber (AUT)
4. Alexey Rubtsov (RUS)
5. Thomas Tauporn (GER)
6. Jakob Schubert (AUT)
6. Dmitri Sharafutdinov (RUS)
1. Anna Stöhr (AUT)
2. Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
3. Mina Markovic (SLO)
4. Momoka Oda (JPN)
5. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
6. Melissa Le Neve (FRA)
Alex Puccio bettered her qualifiers placing by 1 place, ending up in 16th overall after semis.
Ok, so here’s the setting that’s been done in the last week and a half since we stripped and set Gladiator Finals.
Thursday 2/2 and Friday 2/3 – set 42 new problems all around the gym for the comp. 10 rec, 10 int, 10 advanced, 10 open, 2 open finals. Yosemite Wall and Treadwall stayed the same.
Monday 2/6 – light fill on River
Tuesday 2/7 – fill on Dojo
Wednesday 2/8 – fill on Hueco
Thursday 2/9 – fill on Beach
Friday 2/10 – fill on Font
Tuesday 2/14 – added to the Beach, now it’s super full!
Wednesday 2/15 – added to the River. Lots of new 3 and 4 spots and one 5+
Gladiator Finals Setting!!!
Today Carlo, Jonny, Nic, Gabor, and I set the Dojo and the Beach. Tonight we’re stripping River, Hueco, and Font, and tomorrow we’re setting the rest of the gym with help from Danny and Jay Jay as well. We are looking forward to the comp, and with the weather forecast looking snowy, we hope to see you all down at the Spot on Saturday!
A note on the problems…
As usual, we are stripping all of the main bouldering walls and setting 42 brand new problems–10 Recreational (1 spot to 2+ spot, neon green tape), 10 intermediate (3- spot to 3+ spot, neon yellow tape), 10 advanced (4- spot to 4+ spot, red tape), 10 open (4++ spot to 5+ spot, black tape) and 2 open finals (hard! white tape). This means that there are a ton of new problems for every level of climber, and with the relaxed, block party-like atmosphere of Spot comps, we hope climbers of every level will come down and find out how much fun they can have competing.
On that note, for this final comp of SBS Series 7 we’ve redoubled our efforts to address reach issues to make sure this comp lives up to Spot standards in that the majority of the problems are as accessible to the youth competitors as they are to our taller participants. It is important to us that each and every competitor has a good time and a good chance to succeed on as many problems as he or she is strong enough to do. This sometimes results in a bit “busier” looking wall, as we often add intermediate hand holds and extra footholds to make the problems accessible to different heights. Sometimes there is even a slightly different sequence for taller or shorter competitors, or for competitors who excel at dynoing vs technical climbing. That is why it is good to watch other climbers climb if you are having trouble figuring out a particular problem–sometimes someone else’s beta will show you what you might be capable of.
Also, for the pro final, the boys are sure that this time SOMEONE will be able to grab the Bear Claw. So you have that to look forward to as well.
Schedule of Events
Online pre-registration runs through Thursday (Feb 2nd, that’s today) at 11pm. To preregister online go here: SBS 7 ~ Registration. You can also call the gym on Friday and pre-register over the phone. We encourage you to pre-register as it helps things go smoothly on comp day and makes it way easier for you to get in the door quickly.
10 am – Doors Open for pre-registered competitors and for day-of competitors. Competitors can warm up on the Yosemite Wall. Spectators get in free for the youth event.
11am – Youth D and C competitors begin (ages 13 and under)
12am – Youth B, A, and Junior begin (ages 14 – 19)
2pm – Youth D and C session ends and scorecards get turned in. Food is served.
3pm – Youth B, A and Junior session ends, scorecards get turned in, food and youth raffle.
3:30pm-ish – gym should be cleared out to prep for adult session.
4pm – Doors open for pre-registered and day-of competitors. Competitors can warm up on the Yosemite Wall. Spectating the adult event is free for youth and adult competitors and $10 for everyone else. The competitor or spectator entrance fee includes food, drink, Avery beer (for those 21 and older), and a raffle ticket. Additional raffle tickets can be purchased at the desk – $2 each or 3 for $5.
5pm – Adult comp begins.
8pm – Adult redpoint session ends. Food, huge raffle, gladiator jousting, pro finals, fun!
Hope to see you there!!!
Check ‘em out and let us know if there are any problems or questions asap at email@example.com. Deadline for contestations is tomorrow, Wednesday December 7th, at 5pm. Official results to follow!
Semifinals start at 11:30 today. As you can see from these Quali Results, much of the American team has advanced and will be vying alongside climbers from Canada, Slovenia, Japan, Austria, France, Singapore, Spain, the Netherlands, Germany, Argentina, and Brazil for a spot in finals. Head down to Movement to support or, if you aren’t in Boulder, watch live at IFSC.tv. Semis results and finals info coming later today, so stay tuned!
This past Tuesday and Wednesday, we set 54 new boulder problems on the back side of the Hueco Boulder. Among them was a pink boulder set by Jon Glassberg that traverses a serious of massive foot features to a delicate standup to a jug. The problem took the whole crew a bit of time to piece it together and after following with a session later that day, I pieced together some good beta. Check it out:
We got a new door!
Also, the boys reset a bunch of stuff while I was gone and I’m not even sure what was done last–maybe the font? Almost everything is new since I was here last except the Dojo. It’s been pretty busy today but it’s finally mellowing out, and it’s nice and cool in here, so if you’re looking to work out without passing out from the heat come on down!
Setting drills and drivers!
I got this kit from my brother for christmas a few years ago and LOVE them. I haven’t seen them at this good a price since then, but Amazon has them on sale right now for a pretty good deal:
Or, if you are one of those people who prefer the smaller lithium-ion drills, they’re also available at a great deal: Amazon.com: Makita LCT203W 10.8-Volt Compact Lithium-Ion Two-Piece Combo Kit.
Personally I prefer the balance that the bigger battery on the bigger driver set gives, but each to his or her own. If you need a new setting driver I’d get one of these sets asap.
If you’ve been around the internet you may have noticed that the scoring system/calculations used to determine the winners for SCS Nationals has been…confusing…for many of the competitors. Carlo, in particular, seemed to have gotten hosed. He looked into the situation, and wrote a blog about what has happened so far. You can read it here: Carlo Traversi » Blog Archive » SCS Nationals 2011