A look at what Innsbruck World Cup Champion Jan Hojer does for training:
Some days routesetting can be a long and tiring job. Stripping, washing, setting, and holds holds holds. Sometimes things can get away from you…
We’re excited to be getting some brand new So Ill holds soon. Look for them on our walls in the next couple of weeks!
The Bouldering World Cup season has begun again. I’m probably not going to cover all the comps this season besides sharing results and some impressions, largely because it is labor intensive and now you can rewatch the live feeds almost immediately. Thanks IFSC!
The first event this season was in Chongquig, China. Top 3 women were Anna Stöhr (AUT), Momoka Oda (JPN), and Alex Puccio (USA). Top 3 men were Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS), Jakob Schubert (AUT) and Tsukuru Hori (JPN). Nice showing for Japan and Austria with 2 podiums each, and of course Dmitrii has been very dominant the last couple of seasons for Russia. We are very proud to see Team USA climber Alex Puccio continuing to represent the USA all by herself by podiuming once again. Nice job Alex!
If you missed the comp the IFSC has a nice results/write up with video of all the rounds. You can read/watch it here: Podium revisited: Stöhr and Sharafutdinov win the first IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the season (It was also a speed event, so those results/video are also at the link.)
The 2nd event is in Millau, France, and is happening today and tomorrow. Qualifiers for women were much earlier today and men’s are just ending. The men’s problems look really hard–very powerful, also very technical/body tensiony except one which seems to be several dynos in a row–a double to pinches, a sideways to a volume, and another big move to the top. From what I saw (the last 1/4th of the field) Men’s 1 and Men’s 4 got topped out by several competitors and everyone else was getting shut down.
The comments are in all languages, which is cool. You can tell from the incoming chat questions and the announcer’s live responses that some viewers are not at all experienced with climbing or climbing competitions. I find this very exciting–perhaps climbing is finally finding a non-climbing audience!
The live feed reruns can be watched here:
Below are the top 20 qualifier results. These climbers will advance to semis, so if you don’t want to know before you watch it, don’t scroll down! Semis and finals are tomorrow. Stay tuned!
You can watch live, see results and everything else here: IFSC Climbing.org
Women’s Top 20
Men’s Top 20
So that’s all for now. Stay tuned!
We set on the Dojo today. Much more tomorrow. Enjoy!
It’s about Hueco season so hopefully everyone’s already got their reservations. If not, you can schedule tours and camping through the Wagon Wheel Coopt and also at the Hueco Rock Ranch which was just purchased by the American Alpine Club. You can also camp at the park, but call ahead to reserve your space!
Here’s a never-before-released video of my friend Vanessa and I during the 2010 season that Chris just dredged up from the depths of his hard drive. Enjoy!
And to watch more Hueco vids check out this Vimeo channel: Hueco Tanks Bouldering! on Vimeo
Recently setters Connor and Danny helped Jon make a promo video for the Dark Horse comps–a series out of the Metrorock gyms Boston. Dave Wetmore, who as you know is setting at The Spot when he’s in Boulder, is the head setter at Metrorock and he even though he’s on sabbatical, he goes home to Boston to set for these comps. The video is to motivate and inspire–especially for those who don’t have access to amenities like The Spot. How are you training?
And check out the comp series here: 2012-2013 Dates | The Dark Horse Series
The film includes many first ascents by setter Jon as well as some Danny from 2011 and some Dave. Interviews include Glassberg and Rich Crowder as well as John Sherman, Joe Kinder, Ben Scott, Ben Spannuth, Chris Schulte, Paige Claassen, Peter Beal, Access Fund Director Brady Robinson, Revolution/Pusher founder/owner Clark Shelk, Herm Feissner, and even a short bit from Chris Sharma! Climbers include Glassberg, Crowder, Claassen, Spannuth, Schulte, Wetmore, Matty Hong, Matt Wilder, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ryan Silven, Adam Healy (uncredited), and even a distance shot of our good friends Devin Finucane and Chris Taylor questing up some unknown alpine cracks.
Nice job Jon, Jordan, and Rich on this fantastic new film!
Here’s a little video Big Up made of Paul and Daniel at the 2010 World Cup in Vail. This was the year of all the amazing falls, and we also get some good footage of Jernej Kruder at the World Cup and Daniel and Paul training at the Spot (and Daniel skateboarding!). Check it out and get psyched for this year’s comp!
Via Dead Point Magazine via someone at the event in Slovenia is this video of Mina flashing her fourth problem and winning the comp. Exciting!
More highlights can be seen at IFSC.tv
From Five Ten we have this video featuring short interviews with some athletes and some highlights:
From Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11, we have the Finals Highlights videos:
And if you are interested in watching more of the comp, these next four videos show every attempt of every competitor on each finals problem. If you watch them all in a row it is similar to watching the whole comp. For those who enjoy competitions, setting, or seeing how different pro climbers approach the same problems.