Sorry for the short update, but for all who are interested (or just tired of the constant snow/wet cycle Colorado has been in) this week we set the Left River and Right River. An inventory graph of current problems up in the whole gym is posted next to the setting closet. In addition, there are graphs posted for each wall, a few notes on setting, and some bad bolts and bad t-nuts that you can examine if you want to better understand why we don’t hand out wrenches.
Enjoy the new problems, and if you’re looking for used holds don’t miss The Spot garage sale on Friday!
Speaking of ABS Nationals, it is in Colorado Springs (fairly close) and USA Climbing has been making a big effort to put on a really good show. It is definitely worth driving down to watch or, if you have time and want to really experience what it takes to put on our National Climbing Team Selection event, volunteer! Register to compete, see the running order, find a hotel, sign up to volunteer, see the schedule, and more: ABS Nationals Homepage
Reset Update + Red Point Holds!
Today Connor, Jay Jay, Ian Powell, and I added a bunch of problems to the River. Pic of the Left River above, here are the new Middle and Right River:
On our River fill-in today we got two bunches of exciting new holds for you to check out. One set I’ll tell you about tomorrow, but for today, check out the:
We got our tester box of these around one and immediately put them on the wall. You can find them on the purple problem on the far right river. We will do a blog review of these, so climb on ‘em and let us know what you think!
Check out Red Point’s Website - Red Point Climbing Holds Home
That’s all for now. Setting again tomorrow, probably adding to the Font. Enjoy!
Hi all. No pictures today, but we thought you’d be glad to hear that we added even more problems to the Font and River walls yesterday. There is a good spread going on now of all grades, so get in there and enjoy! Next week…the Dojo!
On Tuesday Jonny, Jon, Nic, Danny, Jay Jay, Carlo, and I reset the right river.
In a departure from my normal schedule I ended up climbing after setting for several hours and it seemed like everyone was enjoying the new problems. Especially cool are the white/green chico sloper problem on the arete, the white 4+ just right of the arete, the blue/black stripe/black chico just right of the arete (4+?), the yellow 5 spot in the middle of the wall that is much harder than it looks, the black 5 or 5- in the middle of the wall that uses the 2 DRCC scoops, the red 5- on the right of the wall, and the blue 4- and brown 4- on the farthest right part of the wall. Actually, I think most of the problems were pretty fun and I hope you like them as much as we did.
Today we stripped and reset the Left Dojo. For various reasons we had a small crew today, with Danny, Nic, Jonny and I starting out in the morning and Carlo joining us after noon to finish the day out. We ended up with a bunch of harder boulders though there are some good 4- and 4 problems as well as a 3+ and even (and possibly the first ever) a 3 spot up the middle of the belly. It is blue with a white chico, and if you’ve never climbed up the left belly of the dojo but always wanted to maybe give this problem a try! Also of note are the white 4 on the left side, the pink 5 or 5+ with some tricky beta at the start (also starting on the far left side), the orange 5-, the blue 5, the red with yellow chicos 5- (starts on rt side of left dojo), and, well…we enjoyed the rest of them as well. Here’s what the wall looks like:
So in the last week we’ve reset the River, Dojo, Hueco, and today the Beach. Tomorrow is the Font, and it’ll be open around four pm. We’ve set a ton of problems of literally all grades so come on in and finish those comp projects and try out all our new lines as well.
An Interesting Solution
A popular problem at the Gladiator Finals was the intermediate on the slab. This problem consisted of two big footholds low down on the wall that you could either perch on or jump off to reach the big yellow HRT volume. From there one had to smear on the wall or jump to a large yellow Ruckus cone hold and then mantle off the volume to finish on top of the slab. A few people mantled on the volume without using the cone at all. I almost set the problem that way, but I added the cone to make the boulder a mid-intermediate instead of a low advanced. In any case, this young woman found an interesting solution to the “how-to-get-to-the-cone” problem:
It was my first day back in the Spot in over 3 months, and as over 1/2 the crew is out of town (Jon, Carlo, Jonny and Nic to Colombia and J-Jay to Spain), it was left to Danny, Garrett, myself, and guest setter Gabor Szekely to reset the right river and do some fill-in on the left. We put up a new volume on the right side and a set a ton, so go in and check ‘em out! It certainly beats sitting around in this rain.
See the hold above? Ours is neon pink. Go find it on the river and have fun working out Danny’s two problems that cross it. On one the crux is matching. The other? Well…you’ll have to get creative. Enjoy!
As usual after a big competition, the setters spent the week resetting as quickly as possible so you will have a ton of new stuff to climb on. Some of us were tired, some of us were sore, and some of us were a little goofy, but we got problems up on the whole River wall, the whole Dojo, the whole Hueco, and the whole Beach. Tomorrow the Font may see some problems, depending on the outcome of tonight’s Beta session. No, really, it just depends on everybody’s busy schedule. Anyways, here are some pictures from the last four days:
As usual, we began our reset on the river granite wall. Jay Jay was in school, so the team for Monday was me, Carlo, Jon, Jonny, Garrett, Danny, and guest setter Gabor Szekely.
Gabor has been a route setter on and off for several years and has also climbed up to 5.14d, onsighted up to 13d, and bouldered V13 outside. He occasionally competes as a member of the Hungarian National Team (his home country, though he was raised in the US) he got 18th at last year’s Vail World Cup.
We set some 40 boulders on the river wall, 1 spot to 5+ spot.
That’s right folks, we reset the Dojo! Carlo, Jon, Jonny, Garrett, Danny, me, and guest setter Connor Griffith (who just got back from Switzerland with Carlo and Jon) covered the Dojo in problems including several juggy climbs out the roof of varying difficulties and, on the left bulge, a slightly-easier simulator of a V13 from Black Mountain called Bang-On. Here are some pictures of the wall and the beginning of the simulator.
We stripped the stickers off the wall as we set the new problems on the Dojo. You may have seen some of ‘em stuck on ladders or in designs on our foothold bucket. Today I made a headdress out of some of ‘em.
Gun Show Finals Video:
Today is Wednesday, or, as we like to call it, day 3 of the reset and day 5 of setting in the last 7 days. We’re taking tomorrow off, but we’ll be back Friday to add more light-fill, probably on the Font boulder. So far this week we’ve added problems to the River, Dojo, and Beach. You can read about Monday’s reset of the River here (and see pictures below).
On Tuesday Jon, Garrett, and I reset the Dojo, meaning this awesome double volume is now accessible via several different routes instead of just the one.
The taping revolution has continued, with these gems on the River:
And today Garrett, Jay Jay, Jon, and I set a bunch of problems on the Beach. I added another Dynofest (to compliment the one Garrett added yesterday on the right Dojo) and everyone set fun problems of all grades. After lunch we got lucky and Jonny Hork stopped by early for forerunning, so he decided to set a problem. For those that don’t know, Jonny has been working nights in the ER so he’s been taking off setting for a few weeks. His overly tired attempts to set a boulder were pretty funny at first, but he somehow didn’t fall off his ladder or drop a hold on anybody and ended up with a pretty neat problem. It’s on the right Beach, and includes the DRCC Master hold.
Enjoy all the new problems!