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IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Women’s Finals
Women’s 1
Momoko Oda trying to stick the start jump. She finally did stick it but didn’t manage to stick the next hold nor continue.
Akiyo Noguchi came out first and fell a bunch of times trying to stick the start jump. Finally she stuck it and finished the boulder.
Melissa Le Neve also fell on the start several times. She stuck it and time ran out so if she fell she was done, she matched bonus and moved left to the higher large red 1/2 saucer volume. Her right hand blew off the bonus but she hung the saucer left handed one arm. She got swung her feet back on and finished, laughing at herself.
Melissa Le Neve at the end.
Aya Onoe finally got through the bottom to bonus, only to fall here and then fall off the start 2x more before time ran out.
Anna did the start jump, then fell. Looked at the problem, got back on, and climbed it smoothly.
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Women’s 2
Start by mantling up on the teardrop volume. Jump left to sidepull and feet landing on volume. Balance straight up on high foot. Match left hand/foot. Stand up. Jump to finish.
Aya on the start mantle.
Akiyo Noguchi sizing up the sideways jump. She did it 2nd go and sent.
Momoko Oda came out next and did the mantle straight off but couldn’t seem to do the sideways jump. It looked like she was going to smash into the landing volume. Then, all of a sudden, on her last go, she stuck the side jump, stood up, didn’t even bother with the bonus box (a taped box on the wall) and stood up to the finish.
Momoko Oda starting up the slab.
Melissa standing up on the slab. She flashed.
Melissa Le Neve sizing up the last move.
Aya got through the beginning 1st go, then fell working her way up the slab. Next go (I think?) she solved the slab and sent.
Aya at the top.
Anna came out last. She flashed the bottom but as she started up the slab she bobbled the jib. She caught herself, bobbled again, caught herself, bobbled again, turned around to get the crowd to cheer for her, moved up the slab, went to the last hold right hand instead of left like everyone else. Grabbed it, then slipped and fell off! She looked very stressed. Next go she bobbled the slab again, caught herself again, got back up and went right again to the top and this time stuck it. 2nd go.
Anna Stohr on her 2nd go dealing with the tiny jibs on the slab.
Anna sending.
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Women’s 3
Triangle volumes up a vertical or just overhanging wall.
Akiyo climbed up to bonus pretty casually, then fell moving to the last hold, coming up just short. Bonus is a triangle volume with another triangle volume on the bottom of it. Undercling to the last move. She fell there again. Didn’t finish.
Akiyo on the bottom of Women’s 3
Akiyo crimping the top edge of the volume.
Melissa on the right in the middle of Women’s 3
Momoko sizing up the last move. She didn’t quite make it either.
Melissa at the end. She fell multiple times jumping for the last hold.
Jule looked strong through the bottom into the bonus, then didn’t try to undercling and ended up falling off. Next go she didn’t use the undercling either, but it worked, cause she sent! Only send so far.
Jule with her different beta on the top volume.
Jule sticking the top.
Aya climbed up to the bonus as well, then struggled trying to figure out how to get to the last hold. She falls. Done.
Aya on the bonus. Feet slipped and she fell from here.
Anna came out, climbed through the bottom, used the undercling on the bonus, flashed! She was clearly psyched.
Anna sticking the last move off the undercling.
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Women’s 4
Akiyo styling the bottom of 4. She flashed.
Momoko on the middle of 4. She flashed.
Melissa flashed.
If Jule flashes she will win. She flashes. She wins! Her first gold!
Jule flashing #4. She knows she won and she’s psyched!
Aya climbs through the bottom easily, then falls trying to stand up on the arete. She falls some more.
Anna hikes the boulder. She’s got silver, a proud finish.
Anna atop Women’s 4
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Women’s Final Results
IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #4 – Log Dragomer, Slovenia – Women’s Qualifiers Results
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Women’s Qualifiers
Women’s Qualis, from right, problems 1 and 2 for both groups.
Women’s Quali 1
The first problem for each quali group (the rightmost two problems in the picture above) were identical or nearly identical. You can see Melissa Le Neve of group B in the middle of one of them.
Women’s Quali 2
The second problems were quite different. On the far left is Alex Puccio on Group B Problem 2. The problem was balancy and technical but it got done and Alex was one of the girls who sent it.
In the middle of the photo above is Shauna Coxsey on Group A Problem 2. This problem looked very balancy as well and the bottom was ok but the last two moves were causing some major issues. Shauna fell at the very top, Anna Stöhr just a tad lower. I didn’t watch all of qualis but I didn’t see anyone send it, and only one climber in Group B had 5 tops, so I’m guessing she was the only person to finish this one. That climber was Olga Iakovlena of Russia, and I don’t know anything about her but so far this season she took 7th last event in Kitzbühel, 16th in Millau, and 14th in Chongqing. She got 2nd at the 2012 World Championships in Paris, so clearly she is a competitor to keep an eye on.
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Women’s 3
Women’s Quali 3
These looked a bit easier, and were quickly dispatched by some of the strongest girls. Anna Stöhr is on the left on A3, Akiyo Noguchi on the right on B3. Both sent.
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Alex Puccio and Shauna Coxsey on Women’s 4
Women’s Quali 4
Alex is on B4, Shauna is on A4. On B4, which looked powerful, Alex hiked to this point, then fell from the last move. She then fell from the last move again, then off the bottom a couple of times in the last seconds. She looked to be having friction issues. She didn’t finish this one, but she did the other 4 and goes into Semis tied for 6th. Shauna sent.
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Women’s Quali 5
Women’s Quali 5
Again, fairly different. Both got done.
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Women’s Quali Results
Top 20 go to semifinals. I’m posting them all though to save you the trouble of the IFSC’s website cause I can’t find a permalink.
Some strong climbers who have been doing well this season are out including Swiss climber Petra Klingler, who qualified first in Kitzbuhel.
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Watch the Qualifiers replay here:
[LIVE] IFSC Climbing World Cup Log Dragomer 2013 – Bouldering – Qualifications Women – YouTube
IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Results
Overall the women’s problems looked like they may have been a touch easy, as they saw many sends and attempts and count backs separated the field, but they were crowd pleasing and probably necessary as the men’s looked a bit too hard–there were only 4 tops total in the whole final. With the drama about Jakob’s ascent of problem 3, he may not get scored for that top, so really there may technically be only 3 tops in the men’s. We’ll see.
For the women Akiyo and Anna flashed everything and were separated by countbacks. Alex Puccio took 6 goes to send the 4 finals for 3rd.
Women’s Podium. Anna is psyched!
Women’s Final Results
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Men’s Final Results
Jakob got back on Final 3 and he sent. With 2 tops he wins the comp. Guillaume Glairon Mondet had 1 top, so did Dmitrii Sharafutdinov.
Men’s Podium
Men’s Final Results after the reclimb
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New Live Scoreboard
Worth noting is that there appears to be a new style of live scoreboard at this event. The new style shows in an easy-to-visualize way how far the climbers have progressed and on which problems. Here’s what it looks like:
Sorry it’s blurry. The live at-event scoreboard. Green lines mean they got the bonus. Full blocks represent sends. Tries are off to the right.
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Sometime soon I’ll probably illustrate the earlier problem-by-problem posts more fully with screen shots and such, or you can just watch the live feed replays via ifsc-climbing.org.
IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final 4 + Jakob on Final 3 Again
Final Problem 4
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Women’s Final 4
First go Alex fell on the 3rd or 4th move. She got back on and climbed the boulder to the top, though it definitely looked hard and from the viewer’s perspective there was a question as to whether or not she’d fall off on nearly every move. She didn’t. Nice Alex!
Mina Markovic got up to the big orange death star / donut, squeezed her way up the arete, did some kind of kneebar to move to the top. I guess it was a flash? Nice Mina!
Katha did well on the start, then seemed to struggle moving out to the donut. She hesitated, then just skipped it, went to bonus, right toe in donut, basically just dynoed to the top. Didn’t look that hard for her. Done.
Akiyo doesn’t seem to be having as easy a time with this as she did with the last. She seems to struggle but keeps going slowly and finishes the boulder.
Anna went backwards to the first hold but matched it somehow and kept going up. She also ignored the donut for her hands, only putting a heel in it, and easily finishing for the flash and the win.
Shauna is last out. She looks strong, climbs the bottom well, probably the best anyone has done it. Up to bonus with an inside flag. Foot in the donut, up to the last holds, feet cut and she swung them around for a bit long, finally pasted right foot on, jumped, barely stuck the top but did. Flash.
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Men’s Final 4
Jernej Kruder stuck the double dyno but fell after trying to get out right to the bonus hold. Next go he got bonus via 360 backwards spin, got over on it, moved his feet over left, heel hooked, spun back around, heel hooked other foot, stuck the next hold, then fell trying to stick the big red sloper up and left. Fell there again. Done. Final score, ot, 3b.
Guillaume stuck the double dyno. Moved out right to bonus. Sitting on left heel moves up right to blue mouth sloper, sits on heel more, up left to red sloper, sticks it, jump-crosses to finish hold but falls. Again, but this time stems out to other wall, matches on red sloper, falls. Again. Can’t quite stick the last hold. Done.
Cedric climbed through the bottom easily as Guillaume had, fell where Guillaume did moving to the finish several times. Made the match on the red sloper nicely with the foot out left, but fell jumping to the last hold. No send. Gets back on. Too tired. Done.
Jakob came out and fell from the double dyno. If he finishes the problem he will win the comp. Next go he got through bonus, did a sweet vertical toe-cam, fell. Went back up, STUCK LAST MOVE! Two tops. Wins!
Thomas can’t win, but anyone who does this problem will podium, so he still has a chance at silver or bronze. We didn’t get to see all his tries as Anna was busy winning, but when they go back to him you can see him having had the bonus and falling. Didn’t finish.
Last out, Dmitrii, who, if he flashes, could actually win the comp due to the:
Surprise Drama
The announcer just came on saying that Jakob’s start position for problem 3 has been deemed illegal so that top was taken away from him. They’re going to make him try to re-climb problem 3 and if he doesn’t do it he may not win. The Austrian coach is NOT HAPPY.
So Dmitrii has his turn. Not sure if he knows about the situation with the scores and Jakob. He flashes to the last move and falls. Dmitrii goes back up, is climbing the bottom easily. Matching the red sloper easily. Jumps to the end and finishes. He is in 3rd at the least. Podium!
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Jakob last go on Final Problem 3
So Jakob has to climb again. This problem looks super hard and it is disappointing for everyone I expect that he has to climb it again, but he does, so everyone is waiting around for that to happen. It goes, he sends! He wins!!!
Jakob after climbing Problem 3 for his second time.
IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Problem 3
Final Problems 3
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Women’s Final 3
Alex Puccio came out strong, flashed the problem seemingly easily.
Mina fell off part way up. Got back on. The holds looked like pretty bad sloper pinches with a bit of a fonty texture. Fell going for last move. Got back up there. Fell again. So close, fell again at the last move.
Katha fell at the bottom some. Seems to be have trouble sticking the bonus. I didn’t see her stick it.
The head setter Percey came out with a ladder and brushed the hold at the top, the 2nd to last hold on the problem, which Mina had seemed to have so much trouble holding onto to do the last move.
Akiyo flashed pretty easily. She got that last hold Percey brushed with one hand and pretty much one-armed to the top. It looked great, but it was kinda weird how easily she did it and how much trouble Mina was having on the same hold. Akiyo is redic strong though so it’s hard to say, but I can’t recall ever seeing a head setter come out with a ladder and brush a hold mid-comp before.
Anna flashed easily. She didn’t do the last move as easily as Akiyo had, but she did it easily enough.
Shauna seems to be climbing really carefully, trying not to fall off. She static-ed nearly every move, climbing in control and slowly slowly slowly. She locked off the last move casually. Flash.
Women’s Results after Final 3
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Men’s Final 3
Kruder came out, looked at the problem for a while. Finally stepped off the ground, really seemed to be struggling but also trying hard not to fall off. Fell off. Tried a few different things, but kept falling. Pretty sure he didn’t even get bonus point.
Guillaume came out next, looked to be struggling as well. Fell where Jernej did. Then fell at start. Fell more. Ugh.
Cedric managed to get his left hand over instead of his right on the orange hold, letting him press out and stick, then match the bonus. The bonus is that EP teardrop volume, which apparently called the “Jiu-Jitsu hold” and was designed by well-known coursesetter Laurent LaPorte. Cedric got through the bottom again, seems to really be struggling working his way around the volume. Fell.
Jakob looked good, then dropped suddenly before bonus, looking like he twinged his shoulder a bit. Got back on, fell again. Fell a bunch more. Finally pressed out like Cedric did and got bonus. The live feed announcer said go right, and it made no sense to anyone, but Jakob actually did go right, gastoning the top of the volume. From there he lurched to a left hand crimp, came out quite a bit but stuck, and finished the problem! It was only the 2nd men’s top in the entire comp so far. He was very psyched, as was the hometown crowd.
Thomas flashed to press on the bonus, then fell. Did the bottom again, it looks pretty easy for him, but he falls moving into the volume again. Fell a bunch, no success.
Dmitrii managed bonus, matched bonus, left hand up (like Cedric was trying), moved his foot up, fell. Fell again. Lots of times. No send.
Men’s Results after Final 3
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Screenshots to come later. For now, Problem 4!
IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Problem 2
FInals #2 are the two problems being brushed on the left. Men’s is the slab, women’s is the overhanging power bloc.
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Women’s 2
Alex Puccio pressed up into the corner on the boss-looking slopers, got up over the lip, stuck what looked like a hard move over the lip to a crimp, foot up, pressed into an orange sidepull, lurched smoothly right hand to the finish hold. I thought it was her 2nd flash but the announcer says she did it 2nd go so I guess she must have fallen at the bottom once, or he is wrong.
Mina pressed through the bottom, then fell jumping over the bulge to the second orange crimp when she didn’t quite hit the hold right. The move looked hard for Alex as well. Next go she showed off her famous flexibility, heel hooked over her hand, rocked up, and static-ed the move. For the last move she went out to the arete (as the announcer suggested), came back, went back out, tried a high heel, rocked over, couldn’t quite get her hand to the finish hold, tried again, slipped off, done. It was a great effort and too bad she didn’t finish.
Katha came out, and the feed froze. So…suck. Not sure what is happening. The feed came back but I’m not sure what happened except Katha didn’t make the top.
Akiyo looked a little confused at the start, trying different positions before committing to leave the ground. When she did she got into the roof holds smoothly, stuck the jump to the crimp, made her way up to the top, toehooked left on arete, crossed to finish. Flash.
Anna got through the bottom, stuck the difficult crimp, went out to the arete, tried heel like Mina had, then went back and jumped to finish left hand, sticks, flash, back in 1st.
Shauna looked to be struggling getting out to the blobs, then got on them and looked good, then fell moving up to the first orange crimp over the lip. Fell again. Fell on slopers, seemed to be really struggling more with them than any other competitor thus far has. Got back out on them. Fell again. No top.
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Men’s 2
The only slab in finals.
Jernej Kruder climbed the bottom ok but fell trying to stick the bonus hold.
Guillaume getting in position for bonus on Men’s Final 2.
Guillaume used a different method and managed to balance his way to the bonus hold with a toehook. It looked like a fair amount of smear-campusing but he wasn’t quite able to stick the finish. Next go he again got through the bottom, left foot on light green triangle, finished! 1t2
Cedric slipped off the bottom, and then the feed froze. When it came back he was past bonus but I don’t think he finished.
Jakob flashed to bonus with his left hand, then came back down to move his body around and try to continue climbing. He slipped off.
Thomas comes from a different direction, heel hooking to go right hand to bonus, but he can’t get out of the position and falls. Again same thing. 3rd time same thing, he doesn’t seem to be learning from his positional difficulties once he’s got bonus, and since he’s already scored for it it’d be good to try something else probably. Fell again. Seemed to figure it out, went left to bonus and was leaning out right, fell, out of time. Done.
Dmitrii tried to get his balance but fell before getting bonus. Kept falling off. Tried for bonus both hands, as far as I saw couldn’t stick it.
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I will probably add screen shots later to illustrate, but this is live, so this is what I have time to post now.
IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Finals Problem 1
Finals Problem 1
Mina Markovic and Guillaume Glairon Mondet on Final 1
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Women’s 1
Alex flashing Final 1
First up for women was Alex Puccio. Despite the technical nature of the climb it was vertical to overhanging the entire way and Alex stuck her thrutchy solution to the first move (she went right to the undercling instead of left) and flashed! 1/1
Mina Markovic came out looking strong, did the first move far more easily than Puccio had by crossing left to the undercling, got bonus, then fell near the top of the problem jumping to the yellow sloper volume. Again. 3rd go she kept it together and sent! 1/3
Katha Saurwein was next. She fell off the bottom a couple of times, then got bonus hold and fell where Mina had fallen. 1/3
Akiyo Noguchi was next. Casually flashed. 1/1
Anna Stöhr, world cup hero on her home ground. Flashed easily. 1/1
Shauna did like Alex Puccio and went right hand off the start, though it looked less thrutchy for her. Unfortunately she then fell like Mina Markovic, slipping off the jump from the bonus to the yellow volume. Next go she stuck the move and finished the problem. 1/2
Standings after Final 1 (due to countbacks)
Anna 1t1
Akiyo 1t1
Alex P 1t1
Shauna 1t3
Mina 1t3
Katha 1t3
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Men’s 1
Jernej staring down the sloper that apparently is the crux of final 1
For men Jernej Kruder struggled to get off the bonus hold (black triangle volume) to the next large blue sloper and after many goes ended up scored for bonus only.
Guillaume Glairon Mondet was next for men and he too struggled with the volumes, getting no higher than Jernej did.
Cedric Lachat came out next, also began by falling off. He tried a lot but didn’t even make bonus.
Jakob Schubert came out next, flashed to volume, fell repeatedly where Jernej did.
Thomas Tauporn fell as Jernej, Guillaume, and Jakob did. Bonus, no top.
Dmitrii flashed to bonus but fell matching it. Fell trying to get the sloper as well.
It looked like using the arete would help, but it was marked off so no one could use it.
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I’ll post more illustrative screen shots later, but finals is currently happening so this is all I have time for now. Problem 2!
World Cup Millau – Problem 4 + Unofficial Final Results
Women’s Problem 4
I didn’t catch the proposed grade.
Anna at the top of 4
Anna flashed? I thought 2nd go. Owned it though.
Katha sticks double dyno, falls moving off it. No bonus.
Jule gets up to bonus, falls on next move. Gets up again, falls again. No top.
Jule moving up after getting bonus and just before falling.
Akiyo fell 1st go. 2nd go up to bonus, struggling with beta, bumps, tries to bump in, falls. Does it again, falls from next move. Done, no top.
Akiyo on prob 4 after grabbing bonus and bumping off it.
If Shauna flashes she wins. She falls on the double dyno, not going to get gold, may get silver if she tops. If she tops 2nd go she’d tie Anna. Fell again. Now can only get silver max. Sticks the dyno 3rd go. Finishes the boulder. Top! Silver!
Shauna doing the right beta at the top.
Shauna at the top!
Puccio came out last, hiked the problem.
Alex doing the cross at the top of 4.
Alex at the final hold on final 4.
Here are the UNOFFICIAL (i.e. pre appeals period) results from Millau for women:
Unofficial Results
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Men’s Problem 4
7B+/C
(but the announcer said more straightforward/easier than the last one)
Lucas came out and climbed up high, got bonus, but fell. Then he struggled.
Kilian heel hooking on the bonus hold.
Kilian came out strong, got bonus, fell moving up right to another volume. If he sends he wins. If not, and if someone else does, they could win. Very exciting. Kilian got back up, used a slightly better method, fell again.
Kilian using a good method to get across the volume.
Back again, does this double knee crouch thing, shifts right, grabs the top. Sends! Wins!
Kilian sending 4 and winning the comp.
Guillaume got bonus first go. Fell above, as Kilian did, wrestling with the volumes. Didn’t finish.
Guillaume trying something different.
Rustam came out next, looked good, did the problem 2nd go for his only send in Finals.
Rustam manhandling the volumes.
Rustam sending 4
Jorg got very high but didn’t finish.
Dmitrii got very high as well and also did not finish.
UNOFFICIAL (before appeals) Men’s Results
UNOFFICIAL Results
World Cup Millau – Problem 3
Women’s Problem 3
7a+
Anna is falling off. Mantling up a wall on volumes. Got the bonus (2nd or 3rd go?). Finished the boulder.
Katha starts to mantle but falls. Falls again. Starts to mantle, grabs the tiny handhold mid-wall to help the mantle, but can’t get her left foot up to stand. Jumped to the bonus but didn’t stick it. Done.
Jule flashed. Yeah!
Tiny thumbercling to help with the mantle
Standing up to bonus.
Jule at the top!
Akiyo did another ridiculous stem/mantle. She may have the most flexible hips ever. The female announcer is trying to describe it and failing. Akiyo makes it to bonus, does a ridiculous stand up, jumps to the finish. Flashes!
Akiyo stepped up for the last move instead of jumping off the lower left foot.
Akiyo sticks!
Shauna came out next. She looked good on the mantle, didn’t quite hit the undercling out right exactly right, but it didn’t seem to matter. Sized up the last move, jumped big, got it (but it looked like barely!). Great!
Shauna at the start.
Shauna standing it up
Shauna nearly missed hitting this well, but she didn’t look too stressed about it.
Alex struggled to get up on the mantle and fell off at least twice. Third go looked better, she touched bonus before falling.
Alex on her first go.
Alex figured out the mantle–it was pretty technical for her.
Alex got mad and made it work even though it looked like she might fall. Good power Alex!
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Men’s Problem 3
“the hardest” 7b+ (V8, like prob 2) but harder the head setter thinks
Lucas is falling off. First move a deadpoint to a gaston of a volume. Sticks it and messes around on volumes but can’t get anywhere. Sort of gets his right foot up, then falls. Done.
Kilian is in first as of now, with 2 tops. Falls from the start repeatedly. Can’t seem to get the first move, or even bonus. Done.
Guillaume had a similar experience. Eventually changed his shoes. Stuck the first move, got on the volumes, touched bonus, foot out right, fell. Fell more. Stuck first move again and fell more. Done.
Rustam Gelmanov didn’t do the first move.
Jorg eventually did do the first, but fell trying to control the bonus. Then he quit and walked off with 19 seconds left.
Dmitrii was last. He actually figured out the bottom of the problem, got bonus, got his foot out right, got his body over, and fell moving up to the last two holds. Unfortunately he’s scored the same as everyone else who got bonus, so still in 5th.
Dmitrii using another method.
IFSC Bouldering World Cup Munich
The last bouldering World Cup for the season has just ended in Munich, Germany. An exciting finals came down to the last minute and last problem to decide the top places. Instead of taking a million screen shots I live-updated on Facebook for this comp. Not sure how successful it was as a method of recording and sharing, but some seemed to appreciate it as the live feed wasn’t working so well in many places. Luckily for me the live feed worked brilliantly this time around. If you want to read them click here – Munich Live Updates.
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Final Results
Women’s Finals
Mélanie gave a very great effort but came up just short of the finish holds on 3 and 4 and in the middle of 1 and 2, so she ended up in 6th.
Anna Gallaymova ended up climbing all the boulders, but this comp came down to attempts and she took far too many. Nevertheless, she gave a fantastic effort and even flashed final 3! 5th place.
With one fewer try than Anna G for her 4 tops, Melissa Le Neve ended up in 4th. She gave a fantastic effort as well. She easily hiked #1, then barely flashed #2, though it looked like she might fall on the last move. After missing the jump at the bottom of #3 for a while she stuck it and sent. On her flash go she fell near the top of #4, then struggled with the bottom for a while before making it back to the finish hold. 4th place.
Jule Wurm was the hometown favorite, and she climbed well though she had a sudden slip on #2 (commentator’s curse?) and at the bottom of #4 that pushed her back in the ranking. She flashed #1 and #3 for 3rd place.
Anna Stöhr was looking extremely dominant and powerful but an unexpected slip at the bottom of #4 on her first try was all it took for Akiyo to beat her. Akiyo did, flashing all 4 finals for a score of 4/4 to Anna’s 4/5.
Akiyo (1st) Anna (2nd) Jule (3rd)
Men’s Finals
For the men Briton Stewart Watson was looking quite good to podium until he slipped suddenly at the end of the last problem on his flash go. He didn’t end up sending and ended up in 6th.
Rei Sugimoto didn’t do the first problem but then recovered to do the second and flash the last. Unfortunately #3 also gave him quite the problem so he ended up in 5th. Even though Stewart has more bonuses, Rei has fewer tries to top so I guess that keeps him ahead.
Rustam didn’t look as good as usual, and after a few tries to send #1 he was shut down by the start of #2 when he kept trying a dyno and not sticking it. After many goes he did send the tricky sideways jump/slab of #3 and he flashed #4, but it wasn’t enough to put him on the podium.
Jakob is generally a beast though he looked to be suffering in this comp as well as he barely stuck the end of #1 on his 3rd try and barely got to the top of #2. #3 looked better for him once he figured out the start but he slipped suddenly on the last move and didn’t send. #4 looked like the easiest of the men’s finals and he flashed it powerfully.
Sean McColl came out in 1st position and he climbed quite well. He flashed #1 and did #2 after several tries at the start. He was the only competitor to flash #3, climbing it perfectly. #4 was also a flash, meaning that the number of tries it took him to get through the start of #2 made all the difference. Still, a great comp for Sean.
Finally Dmitrii Sharafutdinov flashed #1, nearly flashed #2 but fell after bonus and had to do it 2nd try. Took several tries for #3, flashed #4. So the falls between #2 and #3 separated Dmitrii and Sean, who were the only 2 to climb all the finals problems.
Dmitrii (1st) Sean (2nd) Jakob (3rd)
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Season Final Results
With this competition the overall season titles are also confirmed and awarded. The men’s was actually decided on quali’s day, when multi-time champion (he’s been 1st or 2nd since 2006) Kilian Fischhuber didn’t make semis and therefore lost his first place to Rustam Gelmanov. If Jakob had won this comp he would have bumped Killian even further. The women were in similar straits, with Shauna and Akiyo in a battle for 2nd. Sadly, Shauna was unable to defend her position as #2 since she suffered a broken leg in Magic Wood earlier this summer and so could not compete in this final event.
Team Overall
Team Overall – Russia (1st) France (2nd) Austria (3rd)
Men’s Overall
Rustam Gelmanov (1) Kilian Fischhuber (2) Jakob Schubert (3)
Women’s Overall
Anna Stohr (1) Akiyo Noguchi (2) Shauna Coxsey (3)
Shauna still came to the Munich comp, broken leg and all
Shauna was bumped down to 3rd overall by Akiyo Noguchi, who said she is very sorry to Shauna in her post-comp interview. Also interviewed was Udo Neumann:
German Coach and longtime movement master Udo Neumann being interviewed before the medal ceremony. Udo produces the wonderful World Cup Report videos from each event.
If you want to learn about climbing and competition climbing, Udo’s videos are a wonderful resource. It is amazing to watch the subtle and not-so-subtle differences in technique displayed by the world’s best competition climbers.
Setting Blog World Cup Coverage 2012 Season
Here are links to the rest of the coverage we’ve done on the Bouldering World Cups this season.
Munich – Live Updates
#5 – Vail
Vail World Cup 2012 (lots of media all links from this page)
#4 – Innsbruck
World Cup Bouldering 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Heiko Wilhelm Photos
Bouldering World Cup #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Finals Problem 4
Bouldering World Cup 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Final Results!
Bouldering World Cup 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Semifinals Results + Meet the Finalists
World Cup 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Qualifiers Results – UPDATED w/more photos
# 3 – Vienna
Bouldering World Cup Vienna – Great Photos! + Video Links
Vienna World Cup Coverage Wrap-Up – UPDATED (many links from here)
#2 - Log-Dragomer
Log-Dragomer Slovenia Bouldering World Cup Finals Coverage Wrap-Up (many links from here)
Videos – Mina Markovic flashing Sharky! + Highlights
#1 – China
No coverage
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