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IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final Results + Overall Season Results

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Finals Replay

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Munich Final Results

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women's Podium in Munich.

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women’s Podium in Munich.

Munich Women's Final Scores

Munich Women’s Final Scores

Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!

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Munich Men’s Final Results

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.

Rei Sugimoto

Winner Rei Sugimoto

Men's Final Scores

Men’s Final Scores

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Season Overall Podiums

Women's Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Women’s Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Men's Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

Men’s Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #7 – Vail – Women’s Qualifiers

June 7, 2013 3 comments
The scene at Women's Qualifiers

The scene at Women’s Qualifiers. Far left is Women’s 1, Blue volume on the red streak is #2, Roof with white holds is #3, far right overhang with volumes is #4. #5 is at the far right side of the wall and is near vertical on volumes. See below.

Women's Quali 5

Akiyo Noguchi staring down Women’s Quali 5

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As usual the best ranked climbers climbed first, and since most of Team USA’s girls haven’t done any World Cups most of Team USA will climb near the end of the pack. Here’s a quick rundown of the problems, I’ll post results when the round is over.

The live commentator did a little interview with some of the women after they climbed. First was the #1 ranked woman, Austrian Anna Stöhr, and she had some interesting things to say. For one, she loves being in Vail. In regards to winning all the time:

I don’t think that I’m that much stronger than the other girls, sometimes I think I just had a bit more luck they they had.    ~ Anna Stöhr

He also interviewed Alex Puccio about her qualifiers and if the altitude is affecting her at all:

I had a couple mishaps, I slipped off the top of the fourth one in the beginning. On the last one I slid off the start hold two times then I did it. It’s good to make your mistakes early on.

I used to be used to the altitude when I lived here. Every year that I haven’t been living here it gets harder and harder. I feel like I’m going to throw up after each problem and I’m not even falling up high. I can’t imagine falling at the top and trying to climb them again.  ~ Alex Puccio

And Shauna Coxsey, who was quite cheery despite a knee problem she’s been having that the announcer asked her about:

It’s just hindering me a little bit on certain moves. It’s a bit of a disadvantage but it’s more important to climb next year than this comp which is why I stopped trying on number 3. I’ll just see how it goes. Take it easy and not push myself on certain moves too hard.

On the altitude:

Altitude’s a disadvantage but it’s a disadvantage for everyone. You get so pumped and so out of breath, everyone coming back [to iso] looks like they’ve just run a marathon. ~ Shauna Coxsey

Shauna will be staying around the Colorado for the next few weeks to climb on Colorado rock, so let’s hope her knee stays strong and she gets to climb some hard boulders! After that she’s home for training, then out to Australia for more climbing, then back home for more training before the next Bouldering World Cup of the season, Munich in August.

Back to qualifiers. As we saw in the Spot last week, there are many extremely strong women here to compete. It will be exciting to see how everyone does here in Vail! Here are the first set of problems they were tested against:

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Women’s Quali 1

Start under a small hang, move over lip to slab, two blobs, out left to blob on volume and a volume with two jibs on it. Mantle up/undercling volume, stand tall, foot on jib, stand up to finish. Don’t move too fast to top or fall off. Some interesting methods were tried on this one.

Alex Puccio on Women's 1

Alex Puccio on the first move of Women’s Q 1

Alex on move 2

Alex matching the blobs

Alex on move 3

Alex getting on the volume

Megan Mascarenas on move 6

Megan Mascarenas working out the mantle. She used strange beta but made it work.

Claire Bell using the knee

Claire Bell using the knee

Tiffany Hensley taking a seat on WQ1

Tiffany Hensley taking a seat on WQ1

Megan standing it up

Megan standing it up. Most used the edge of the volume as she is with her left hand.

Megan at the top.

Megan at the top.

Lisa Chulich couldn't quite reach, but this was good enough to get her a top. Nice job Lisa!

Lisa Chulich couldn’t quite reach, but this was good enough to get her a top. Nice job Lisa!

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Women’s Quali 2

Start, grab blob, work left, heel, rock up right hand to volume, compress the arete on volumes.

Isabelle Faus on the start of WQ2

Isabelle Faus on the arete of WQ2

Anna Stohr bumping to the underblob on the arete of Q2

Anna Stohr bumping to the underblob on the arete of Q2

Up to a blob bonus, rock over to the headwall on a volume to a challenging jump to and a challenging match on the finish volume.

Anna Stohr moving to bonus

Anna Stohr moving to bonus

Melissa Le Neve topping 2

Melissa Le Neve topping 2. Akiyo did it with a stem out right. Shauna kept her left foot low. So did Angie.

Angie Payne about to match.

Angie Payne about to match. She did, then her feet cut and she sort of campused.

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Women’s Quali 3

Steep and powerful. Start on pinches, one hold on flat wall, heel or toe up on start hold, committing move to first big hold in roof.

Tyler Youngwerth

Tyler Youngwerth using the heel hook.

Monika Retschy headed up the roof on WQ3

Monika Retschy headed up the roof on WQ3

Match. Thuggy looking moves through roof with clamp feet. Keep the feet on or fall off.

Melissa Le Neve on the steepest part of WQ3

Melissa Le Neve on the steepest part of WQ3. She looked really shaky on this one but managed to finish it!

Up to pinch, left to bonus hold (big matching hold just under lip)

Aya Onoe on WQ4

Aya Onoe going to bonus on WQ3

Match bonus.

Melissa matching on WQ4

Melissa matching on WQ3. Notice the block at the top left of the hold. There is one just below it as well, making this hold more challenging to grab and move off of.

Kyra Condie and the blocked bonus hold on WQ3

Kyra Condie and another view of the blocked bonus hold on WQ3

Over the lip left hand to the blue hold between the Enterprises E and N below.

Megan Mascarenas getting over the roof. Unfortunately she fell before moving on.

Megan Mascarenas getting over the roof. Unfortunately she fell before moving on.

Out right to white blob, match, up right to finish on Versa-pinch.

Melissa Le Neve at the top

Melissa Le Neve sticking the top of women’s Q3.

This last move seemed to be a bit of a surprise for most competitors who got there. It must have been farther than it looked as competitors including Shauna Coxsey and Angie Payne came slightly short of sticking it. To her surprise, Melissa Le Neve did stick it.

Melissa Le Neve glad to be on the finish hold of WQ3

Melissa Le Neve glad to be on the finish hold of WQ3

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Women’s Quali 4

Steep and powerful up an overhanging wall and an arete. Start on two balls, feet on pinchtites, jump to a bloctite with another bloctite just over it.

Melanie Sandoz on the first move of WQ4

Melanie Sandoz on the first move of WQ4

Lisa Chulich tried using the right arete to stand tall. It worked but she then tried to do a dynamic cross to the bloctite that she couldn’t stick. It looked like a toehook or just using the regular method would have been better for her.

Lisa Chulich trying to use the arete.

Lisa Chulich trying to use the arete.

Akiyo on WQ4

Akiyo did the regular method and quickly got her feet up.

Match the bloctites with a foot or feet up, power move to a small hold up and left,

Nina Williams powering to the crimp

Nina Williams powering to the crimp

…heel on…

Francesca Metcalf on WQ4

Francesca Metcalf preparing to move up to the volume

then left around the arete to the bonus hold.

Akiyo Noguchi Women's Q4

Akiyo moving from bonus and volume up to the crimp and 2tex vortex. The vortex is pretty good if you hit it right but it’s a small hole and the inside is very good in one position and not so good in the others.

Balance on the heel and get right hand in vortex.

Angie Payne bumping.

Angie Payne bumping to the vortex.

Angie Payne balancing to bump her left hand in.

Angie Payne balancing to bump her left hand in.

The sequence Angie tried for the end was: bump left into the little blue hold below the lip, right up to higher blue hold on headwall. I imagine next would be left hand into vortex, up to finish, but she fell here and didn’t get back before time ran out.

Next

Next would be up to the blue hold in the Enterprises S.

From there it looked like you could thrutch left to the last pinch or you could maybe flip the vortex and go right as a gaston then match. Don’t remember if anyone tried the flip method, most didn’t even get near the top of this one.

Melissa Le Neve finishing left on Women's Quali 4

Melissa Le Neve finishing left hand first on Women’s Quali 4

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Women’s Quali 5

Back to the vertical for some balance, stand-up, squeeze, and press moves on volumes. This one required the climbers to  move deliberately with good body tension. The start seemed quite challenging, the middle ok, then matching the undercling bonus was powerful and matching the finish was no picnic either. Most who got to the last hold did figure out the match, but I saw at least one climber move too fast at the top and slip trying to match the finish before they’d gotten a solid body position.

Katha Saurwein of Austria on the bottom of WQ5

Katha Saurwein of Austria on the bottom of WQ5

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk working her way up Q5

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk getting in position for the stand up on Q5

Alex Puccio making her way through the middle of Quali 5

Alex Puccio making her way through the middle and onto the bonus of Quali 5

Shauna getting in position to match the finish hold, the left volume, of Qualifier 5.

Shauna getting in position to match the finish hold, the left volume, of Qualifier 5.

Staying low like Shauna is here seemed the best way. Several competitors mantled up on the left hand and then tried to reach down and match. Mina Leslie-Wujastyk dropped back down to the position Shauna is in and matched. Melanie Sandoz (FRA) went for the match from the high position but her foot slipped as she brought her right hand across and she had to try again, fell repeatedly at the bottom and throughout the problem, and unfortunately didn’t finish. Briton Leah Crane fell in the middle but then got back up and tried a few things before eventually making the match without falling.

Leah Crane trying a method to match the top.

Leah Crane trying the mantle method.

Leah trying something else.

Leah trying something else.

Leah working it out.

Leah working it out.

Screen Shot 2013-06-07 at 11.26.46 AM

Done

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Click Here to See Women’s Qualifier Results

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #6 – Toronto – Women’s Quali Problems

June 1, 2013 2 comments
Women's Qualifiers. 1 is on the farthest left, 5 is the farthest right. You can see the competitors waiting down the stairs on the right side of the screen.

Women’s Qualifiers, way up high. 1 is on the farthest left, 2 & 3 are on the overhanging bulge, 4 is the steep roof with the big volumes, 5 is the slight overhang farthest right. You can see some of the competitors waiting down the stairs on the left side of the screen.

There was one set of 5 boulders for qualifiers for the entire women’s field.

Part of the way through qualis the announcers said it started to get a lot hotter in the venue. That probably made what looked like a difficult set of problems feel even more difficult.

Later when they interviewed Alex Puccio she said it was really hot while climbing, there were no fans, and the volumes were really hard to hold on to because your hands got quite sweaty. She suggests fans for the boulder problems for tomorrow to help the problems stay cooler. She also said the crowd is fantastic, loud and enthusiastic, and the last Canadian World Cup was just as loud and enthused.

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Women’s Quali 1

Women's Quali 1

Women’s Quali 1 on the left.

A short balancy problem starting on a purple volume. Step across a shallow wide corner to another purple volume, lean over or lurch to a left orange gaston and a right press on a large Teknik blob, feet over, right foot up onto another teknik blob or heelhook on the big one, higher right hand available (looked pretty bad, for balance only) stand up on the large blob to match the finish hold in the roof in an overhead press.

Akiyo finishing women's 1

Akiyo about to finish women’s 1

Most of the stronger competitors that we watched hiked this one or hesitated and then got through it. As the round progressed people began to have trouble finishing this but, appropriately, it still got done the most of the qualifiers.

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Women’s Quali 2

Women's Quali 2

Women’s Quali 2

Steep up an arete. The commentators said this one would be the hardest of the lot, but it didn’t prove to be true. Start under the left side of a roof on purple jug with feet on the sidewall, gaston right in roof, left pinch or sidepull in roof, lurch over the angle change to the bonus hold on the headwall, a slopy looking orange pinch. Lurch left around the arete to a large blue Revolution volcano.

Jule getting bonus on Quali 2

Jule getting bonus on Quali 2. Volcano is next.

Thuggy move up left to side pull around arete, up right to hold on a green triangle volume.

Akiyo Noguchi thugging her way through Quali 2

Akiyo Noguchi thugging her way through Quali 2

Up left hand first to top hold which is directly above the volume so you have to move up and around the arete to get to it.

Dianne Merrick of GB trying the heel method.

Dianne Merrick of GB trying the heel method.

Seemed like you could either heelhook lock these moves or pogo or jump through them.

Anna Stöhr doing the last move on Q2

Anna Stöhr doing the last move on Q2 with the heel method.

Most of the top competitors did this easily, but Jule Wurm had trouble working with the bonus hold and she didn’t end up finishing.

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Women’s Quali 3

Anna Stöhr on Women's Quali 3

Anna Stöhr on Women’s Quali 3

Start on the other side of the roof from Quali 2, looked jumpy and powerful. Holds on a volume, a few in the roof…

Shauna Coxsey in the roof

Shauna Coxsey in the roof

…turn around, bicycle feet, power move to a jug on the bottom of another volume…

Jule jumping for the volume

Jule jumping for the volume jug

…cross to a jug undercling also on the volume, jump to a sloper on the headwall. This move looked cruxy.

Alex Puccio rocking up the headwall.

Alex Puccio rocking up the headwall.

Feet on the volume jugs, balance up through two smaller holds to the finish.

Akiyo at the top.

Akiyo at the top.

Looked like a leg press for the last move and balance to match it.

This problem looked similar to #2 in terms of how competitors were doing on it. All the strongest hiked it, except Jule, who didn’t finish it.

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Women’s Quali 4

Anna Stöhr on Q4

Anna Stöhr on Q4

Big purple volumes on a roof. Start, move up to a blue diamond sloper pinch and left to another volume. Match other volume, shift up on it until you get bonus, a jib screwed to the top corner of the volume.

Akiyo making it work.

Akiyo making it work.

Akiyo trying a slightly different way.

Akiyo trying a slightly different way.

Up to a hold on another little triangle volume.

Akiyo Noguchi figuring out Q4

Akiyo Noguchi crushing Q4

Jib on a circle volume.

Akiyo Noguchi

Akiyo Noguchi

Thug jump to finish.

Akiyo sticking the last move of Q4

Akiyo sticking the last move of Q4

This one proved to be the most difficult of the lot. Anna Stöhr came out and didn’t even make bonus despite lots of effort. Akiyo Noguchi came out next and hiked it. She pressed thorough the bottom easily by matching the blue diamond, dropping down to the 2nd big volume, matching, flipping a hand to a reverse hamhock, changed to a shuffle up the volume, reached over to the bonus, then up to the higher volumes. It didn’t even look like she actually grabbed the last hold, but she stuck it somehow, swung out on it casually, came back in, matched, done. Puccio didn’t get bonus, unless they counted her touching it with her foot. She put in a lot of good efforts but couldn’t solve the bottom. Jule Wurm made bonus, then didn’t get the next hold. Shauna Coxsey didn’t get anywhere. Momoka Oda looked good to bonus, didn’t finish. Melissa Le Neve also managed this one. Katha got bonus. Besides them I didn’t see anyone else really get anywhere on it.

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Women’s Quali 5

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Women's Q4

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Women’s Q4

Farthest right on the wall. Large green volume with holds on it to start. Up to two large orange slopers that I can’t identify for make.

Anna Stöhr Q5

Anna Stöhr on the Q5 orange slopers.

The slopers.

The slopers. Dual-tex. Maybe Element?

Cross to the bonus hold – a sloper on a large purple volume. Match, up to another sloper on a purple triangle volume. Step up and lurch or power to lip.

Anna setting up for the move to the lip.

Anna setting up for the move to the lip.

Shift along lip to finish spot. Match.

Anna fell from the top, then finished. Alex Puccio hiked this, doing the top really easily by shifting along the lip to the finish instead of just jumping for the finish spot.

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Women’s Quali Results

Not sure where Akiyo fell, but she only fell once and she finished everything for first place with 5 tops 6 tries, 5 tops 5 tries.

Next up was Melissa Le Neve with 5 tops 9 tries, 5 bonus 8 tries.

Shauna and Puccio tied for 3rd with 4 flashes each. Neither made any headway on problem 4 so no score for that one.

Anna Stöhr’s fall at the top of problem 5 puts her in 5th here with 4 tops, 5 tries.

Women's Quali Results Toronto

Women’s Top Quali Results Toronto

Interesting about this round – the 12th place to 20th place competitors made semifinals with only a single top in qualis. Not sure if this means qualis were too hard, or the field just wasn’t deep enough, as the top competitors were all fairly close together (minus problem 4).

Womens 10 - 18

More female qualifiers to make it through. Notice that a single flash was good enough for 12th place.

The heat was probably big factor as there looked to be a lot of sloper and volume climbing here and when it is hot those types of holds often feel impossible.

19 & 20 make it through to qualifiers. The rest are out.

19 & 20 make it through to qualifiers. The rest are out.

Nice job to Sierra and Megan for squeaking through in 19th and 20th places!

Full Women’s Quali Results Toronto

Re-watch the live feed

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Men’s qualis start at 4pm Toronto time.

 

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Women’s Finals

May 18, 2013 1 comment

Women’s 1

Momoko Oda trying to stick the start jump.

Momoko Oda trying to stick the start jump. She finally did stick it but didn’t manage to stick the next hold nor continue.

Akiyo Noguchi came out first and fell a bunch of times trying to stick the start jump. Finally she stuck it and finished the boulder.

Melissa Le Neve also fell on the start several times. She stuck it and time ran out so if she fell she was done, she matched bonus and moved left to the higher large red 1/2 saucer volume. Her right hand blew off the bonus but she hung the saucer left handed one arm. She got swung her feet back on and finished, laughing at herself.

Melissa Le Neve at the end.

Melissa Le Neve at the end.

Aya Onoe finally got through the bottom to bonus, only to fall here and then fall off the start 2x more before time ran out.

Aya Onoe finally got through the bottom to bonus, only to fall here and then fall off the start 2x more before time ran out.

Anna did the start jump, then fell. Looked at the problem, got back on, and climbed it smoothly.

Anna did the start jump, then fell. Looked at the problem, got back on, and climbed it smoothly.

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Women’s 2

Start by mantling up on the teardrop volume. Jump left to sidepull and feet landing on volume. Balance straight up on high foot. Match left hand/foot. Stand up. Jump to finish.

Aya on the mantle.

Aya on the start mantle.

Akiyo Noguchi sizing up the sideways jump.

Akiyo Noguchi sizing up the sideways jump. She did it 2nd go and sent.

Momoko Oda came out next and did the mantle straight off but couldn’t seem to do the sideways jump. It looked like she was going to smash into the landing volume. Then, all of a sudden, on her last go, she stuck the side jump, stood up, didn’t even bother with the bonus box (a taped box on the wall) and stood up to the finish.

Momoko Oda starting up the slab.

Momoko Oda starting up the slab.

Melissa getting higher on the slab.

Melissa standing up on the slab. She flashed.

Melissa Le Neve sizing up the last move.

Melissa Le Neve sizing up the last move.

Aya got through the beginning 1st go, then fell working her way up the slab. Next go (I think?) she solved the slab and sent.

Aya at the top.

Aya at the top.

Anna came out last. She flashed the bottom but as she started up the slab she bobbled the jib. She caught herself, bobbled again, caught herself, bobbled again, turned around to get the crowd to cheer for her, moved up the slab, went to the last hold right hand instead of left like everyone else. Grabbed it, then slipped and fell off! She looked very stressed. Next go she bobbled the slab again, caught herself again, got back up and went right again to the top and this time stuck it. 2nd go.

Anna Stohr on her 2nd go dealing with the tiny jibs on the slab.

Anna Stohr on her 2nd go dealing with the tiny jibs on the slab.

Anna sending.

Anna sending.

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Women’s 3

Triangle volumes up a vertical or just overhanging wall.

Akiyo climbed up to bonus pretty casually, then fell moving to the last hold, coming up just short. Bonus is a triangle volume with another triangle volume on the bottom of it. Undercling to the last move. She fell there again. Didn’t finish.

Akiyo on Women's 3

Akiyo on the bottom of Women’s 3

Akiyo crimping the top edge of the volume.

Akiyo crimping the top edge of the volume.

Melissa on the right in the middle of Women's 3

Melissa on the right in the middle of Women’s 3

Momoko sizing up the last move. She didn't quite make it.

Momoko sizing up the last move. She didn’t quite make it either.

Melissa at the end. She fell multiple times jumping for the last hold.

Melissa at the end. She fell multiple times jumping for the last hold.

Jule looked strong through the bottom into the bonus, then didn’t try to undercling and ended up falling off. Next go she didn’t use the undercling either, but it worked, cause she sent! Only send so far.

Jule with her different beta on the top volume.

Jule with her different beta on the top volume.

Jule sticking the top.

Jule sticking the top.

Aya climbed up to the bonus as well, then struggled trying to figure out how to get to the last hold. She falls. Done.

Aya on the bonus. Feet slipped and she fell from here.

Aya on the bonus. Feet slipped and she fell from here.

Anna came out, climbed through the bottom, used the undercling on the bonus, flashed! She was clearly psyched.

Anna sticking the last move off the undercling.

Anna sticking the last move off the undercling.

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Women’s 4

Akiyo styling the bottom of 4

Akiyo styling the bottom of 4. She flashed.

Momoko on the middle of 4

Momoko on the middle of 4. She flashed.

Melissa flashed.

If Jule flashes she will win. She flashes. She wins! Her first gold!

Jule flashing #4. She knows she won and she's psyched!

Jule flashing #4. She knows she won and she’s psyched!

Aya climbs through the bottom easily, then falls trying to stand up on the arete. She falls some more.

Anna hikes the boulder. She’s got silver, a proud finish.

Anna atop Women's 4

Anna atop Women’s 4

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Women’s Final Results

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 1.52.59 PM (2)

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 1.54.39 PM (2)

IFSC Bouldering World Cup Innsbruck Austria Women's Final Results

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #4 – Log Dragomer, Slovenia – Women’s Qualifiers Results

May 11, 2013 1 comment

Screen Shot 2013-05-11 at 11.38.59 AM

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Women’s Qualifiers

Women's Qualis, from right, problems 1 and 2 for both groups.

Women’s Qualis, from right, problems 1 and 2 for both groups.

Women’s Quali 1

The first problem for each quali group (the rightmost two problems in the picture above) were identical or nearly identical. You can see Melissa Le Neve of group B in the middle of one of them.

Women’s Quali 2

The second problems were quite different. On the far left is Alex Puccio on Group B Problem 2. The problem was balancy and technical but it got done and Alex was one of the girls who sent it.

In the middle of the photo above is Shauna Coxsey on Group A Problem 2. This problem looked very balancy as well and the bottom was ok but the last two moves were causing some major issues. Shauna fell at the very top, Anna Stöhr just a tad lower. I didn’t watch all of qualis but I didn’t see anyone send it, and only one climber in Group B had 5 tops, so I’m guessing she was the only person to finish this one. That climber was Olga Iakovlena of Russia, and I don’t know anything about her but so far this season she took 7th last event in Kitzbühel, 16th in Millau, and 14th in Chongqing. She got 2nd at the 2012 World Championships in Paris, so clearly she is a competitor to keep an eye on.

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Women's 3

Women’s 3

Women’s Quali 3

These looked a bit easier, and were quickly dispatched by some of the strongest girls. Anna Stöhr is on the left on A3, Akiyo Noguchi on the right on B3. Both sent.

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Screen Shot 2013-05-11 at 11.40.42 AM

Alex Puccio and Shauna Coxsey on Women’s 4

Women’s Quali 4

Alex is on B4, Shauna is on A4. On B4, which looked powerful, Alex hiked to this point, then fell from the last move. She then fell from the last move again, then off the bottom a couple of times in the last seconds. She looked to be having friction issues. She didn’t finish this one, but she did the other 4 and goes into Semis tied for 6th. Shauna sent.

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Women's Quali 5

Women’s Quali 5

Women’s Quali 5

Again, fairly different. Both got done.

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Women’s Quali Results

Top 20 go to semifinals. I’m posting them all though to save you the trouble of the IFSC’s website cause I can’t find a permalink.

Screen Shot 2013-05-11 at 11.54.06 AMScreen Shot 2013-05-11 at 11.54.20 AMScreen Shot 2013-05-11 at 11.54.37 AM

Some strong climbers who have been doing well this season are out including Swiss climber Petra Klingler, who qualified first in Kitzbuhel.

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Watch the Qualifiers replay here:

[LIVE] IFSC Climbing World Cup Log Dragomer 2013 – Bouldering – Qualifications Women – YouTube

 

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Results

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Overall the women’s problems looked like they may have been a touch easy, as they saw many sends and attempts and count backs separated the field, but they were crowd pleasing and probably necessary as the men’s looked a bit too hard–there were only 4 tops total in the whole final. With the drama about Jakob’s ascent of problem 3, he may not get scored for that top, so really there may technically be only 3 tops in the men’s. We’ll see.

For the women Akiyo and Anna flashed everything and were separated by countbacks. Alex Puccio took 6 goes to send the 4 finals for 3rd.

Women's Podium. Anna is psyched!

Women’s Podium. Anna is psyched!

Women's Final Results

Women’s Final Results

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Men’s Final Results

Jakob got back on Final 3 and he sent. With 2 tops he wins the comp. Guillaume Glairon Mondet had 1 top, so did Dmitrii Sharafutdinov.

Men's Podium

Men’s Podium

Men's Final Results after the reclimb

Men’s Final Results after the reclimb

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New Live Scoreboard

Worth noting is that there appears to be a new style of live scoreboard at this event. The new style shows in an easy-to-visualize way how far the climbers have progressed and on which problems. Here’s what it looks like:

Sorry it's blurry. The live at-event scoreboard.

Sorry it’s blurry. The live at-event scoreboard. Green lines mean they got the bonus. Full blocks represent sends. Tries are off to the right.

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Sometime soon I’ll probably illustrate the earlier problem-by-problem posts more fully with screen shots and such, or you can just watch the live feed replays via ifsc-climbing.org.

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final 4 + Jakob on Final 3 Again

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Final Problem 4

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Women’s Final 4

First go Alex fell on the 3rd or 4th move. She got back on and climbed the boulder to the top, though it definitely looked hard and from the viewer’s perspective there was a question as to whether or not she’d fall off on nearly every move. She didn’t. Nice Alex!

Mina Markovic got up to the big orange death star / donut, squeezed her way up the arete, did some kind of kneebar to move to the top. I guess it was a flash? Nice Mina!

Katha did well on the start, then seemed to struggle moving out to the donut. She hesitated, then just skipped it, went to bonus, right toe in donut, basically just dynoed to the top. Didn’t look that hard for her. Done.

Akiyo doesn’t seem to be having as easy a time with this as she did with the last. She seems to struggle but keeps going slowly and finishes the boulder.

Anna went backwards to the first hold but matched it somehow and kept going up. She also ignored the donut for her hands, only putting a heel in it, and easily finishing for the flash and the win.

Shauna is last out. She looks strong, climbs the bottom well, probably the best anyone has done it. Up to bonus with an inside flag. Foot in the donut, up to the last holds, feet cut and she swung them around for a bit long, finally pasted right foot on, jumped, barely stuck the top but did. Flash.

~

Men’s Final 4

Jernej Kruder stuck the double dyno but fell after trying to get out right to the bonus hold. Next go he got bonus via 360 backwards spin, got over on it, moved his feet over left, heel hooked, spun back around, heel hooked other foot, stuck the next hold, then fell trying to stick the big red sloper up and left. Fell there again. Done. Final score, ot, 3b.

Guillaume stuck the double dyno. Moved out right to bonus. Sitting on left heel moves up right to blue mouth sloper, sits on heel more, up left to red sloper, sticks it, jump-crosses to finish hold but falls. Again, but this time stems out to other wall, matches on red sloper, falls. Again. Can’t quite stick the last hold. Done.

Cedric climbed through the bottom easily as Guillaume had, fell where Guillaume did moving to the finish several times. Made the match on the red sloper nicely with the foot out left, but fell jumping to the last hold. No send. Gets back on. Too tired. Done.

Jakob came out and fell from the double dyno. If he finishes the problem he will win the comp. Next go he got through bonus, did a sweet vertical toe-cam, fell. Went back up, STUCK LAST MOVE! Two tops. Wins!

Thomas can’t win, but anyone who does this problem will podium, so he still has a chance at silver or bronze. We didn’t get to see all his tries as Anna was busy winning, but when they go back to him you can see him having had the bonus and falling. Didn’t finish.

Last out, Dmitrii, who, if he flashes, could actually win the comp due to the:

Surprise Drama

The announcer just came on saying that Jakob’s start position for problem 3 has been deemed illegal so that top was taken away from him. They’re going to make him try to re-climb problem 3 and if he doesn’t do it he may not win. The Austrian coach is NOT HAPPY.

So Dmitrii has his turn. Not sure if he knows about the situation with the scores and Jakob. He flashes to the last move and falls. Dmitrii goes back up, is climbing the bottom easily. Matching the red sloper easily. Jumps to the end and finishes. He is in 3rd at the least. Podium!

~

Jakob last go on Final Problem 3

So Jakob has to climb again. This problem looks super hard and it is disappointing for everyone I expect that he has to climb it again, but he does, so everyone is waiting around for that to happen. It goes, he sends! He wins!!!

Jakob after climbing Problem 3 for his second time.

Jakob after climbing Problem 3 for his second time.

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Problem 3

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Final Problems 3

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Women’s Final 3

Alex Puccio came out strong, flashed the problem seemingly easily.

Mina fell off part way up. Got back on. The holds looked like pretty bad sloper pinches with a bit of a fonty texture. Fell going for last move. Got back up there. Fell again. So close, fell again at the last move.

Katha fell at the bottom some. Seems to be have trouble sticking the bonus. I didn’t see her stick it.

The head setter Percey came out with a ladder and brushed the hold at the top, the 2nd to last hold on the problem, which Mina had seemed to have so much trouble holding onto to do the last move.

Akiyo flashed pretty easily. She got that last hold Percey brushed with one hand and pretty much one-armed to the top. It looked great, but it was kinda weird how easily she did it and how much trouble Mina was having on the same hold. Akiyo is redic strong though so it’s hard to say, but I can’t recall ever seeing a head setter come out with a ladder and brush a hold mid-comp before.

Anna flashed easily. She didn’t do the last move as easily as Akiyo had, but she did it easily enough.

Shauna seems to be climbing really carefully, trying not to fall off. She static-ed nearly every move, climbing in control and slowly slowly slowly. She locked off the last move casually. Flash.

Women's Results after Final 3

Women’s Results after Final 3

~

Men’s Final 3

Kruder came out, looked at the problem for a while. Finally stepped off the ground, really seemed to be struggling but also trying hard not to fall off. Fell off. Tried a few different things, but kept falling. Pretty sure he didn’t even get bonus point.

Guillaume came out next, looked to be struggling as well. Fell where Jernej did. Then fell at start. Fell more. Ugh.

Cedric managed to get his left hand over instead of his right on the orange hold, letting him press out and stick, then match the bonus. The bonus is that EP teardrop volume, which apparently called the “Jiu-Jitsu hold” and was designed by well-known coursesetter Laurent LaPorte. Cedric got through the bottom again, seems to really be struggling working his way around the volume. Fell.

Jakob looked good, then dropped suddenly before bonus, looking like he twinged his shoulder a bit. Got back on, fell again. Fell a bunch more. Finally pressed out like Cedric did and got bonus. The live feed announcer said go right, and it made no sense to anyone, but Jakob actually did go right, gastoning the top of the volume. From there he lurched to a left hand crimp, came out quite a bit but stuck, and finished the problem! It was only the 2nd men’s top in the entire comp so far. He was very psyched, as was the hometown crowd.

Thomas flashed to press on the bonus, then fell. Did the bottom again, it looks pretty easy for him, but he falls moving into the volume again. Fell a bunch, no success.

Dmitrii managed bonus, matched bonus, left hand up (like Cedric was trying), moved his foot up, fell. Fell again. Lots of times. No send.

Men's Results after Final 3

Men’s Results after Final 3

~

Screenshots to come later. For now, Problem 4!

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Problem 2

April 27, 2013 1 comment
FInals #2 are the two problems on the left.

FInals #2 are the two problems being brushed on the left. Men’s is the slab, women’s is the overhanging power bloc.

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Women’s 2

Alex Puccio pressed up into the corner on the boss-looking slopers, got up over the lip, stuck what looked like a hard move over the lip to a crimp, foot up, pressed into an orange sidepull, lurched smoothly right hand to the finish hold. I thought it was her 2nd flash but the announcer says she did it 2nd go so I guess she must have fallen at the bottom once, or he is wrong.

Mina pressed through the bottom, then fell jumping over the bulge to the second orange crimp when she didn’t quite hit the hold right. The move looked hard for Alex as well. Next go she showed off her famous flexibility, heel hooked over her hand, rocked up, and static-ed the move. For the last move she went out to the arete (as the announcer suggested), came back, went back out, tried a high heel, rocked over, couldn’t quite get her hand to the finish hold, tried again, slipped off, done. It was a great effort and too bad she didn’t finish.

Katha came out, and the feed froze. So…suck. Not sure what is happening. The feed came back but I’m not sure what happened except Katha didn’t make the top.

Akiyo looked a little confused at the start, trying different positions before committing to leave the ground. When she did she got into the roof holds smoothly, stuck the jump to the crimp, made her way up to the top, toehooked left on arete, crossed to finish. Flash.

Anna got through the bottom, stuck the difficult crimp, went out to the arete, tried heel like Mina had, then went back and jumped to finish left hand, sticks, flash, back in 1st.

Shauna looked to be struggling getting out to the blobs, then got on them and looked good, then fell moving up to the first orange crimp over the lip. Fell again. Fell on slopers, seemed to be really struggling more with them than any other competitor thus far has. Got back out on them.  Fell again. No top.

~

Men’s 2

The only slab in finals.

Jernej Kruder climbed the bottom ok but fell trying to stick the bonus hold.

Guillaume getting in position for bonus on Men's Final 2.

Guillaume getting in position for bonus on Men’s Final 2.

Guillaume used a different method and managed to balance his way to the bonus hold with a toehook. It looked like a fair amount of smear-campusing but he wasn’t quite able to stick the finish. Next go he again got through the bottom, left foot on light green triangle, finished! 1t2

Cedric slipped off the bottom, and then the feed froze. When it came back he was past bonus but I don’t think he finished.

Jakob flashed to bonus with his left hand, then came back down to move his body around and try to continue climbing. He slipped off.

Thomas comes from a different direction, heel hooking to go right hand to bonus, but he can’t get out of the position and falls. Again same thing. 3rd time same thing, he doesn’t seem to be learning from his positional difficulties once he’s got bonus, and since he’s already scored for it it’d be good to try something else probably. Fell again. Seemed to figure it out, went left to bonus and was leaning out right, fell, out of time. Done.

Dmitrii tried to get his balance but fell before getting bonus. Kept falling off. Tried for bonus both hands, as far as I saw couldn’t stick it.

~

I will probably add screen shots later to illustrate, but this is live, so this is what I have time to post now.

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Finals Problem 1

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Finals Problem 1

Mina Markovic and Guillaume Glairon Mondet on Final 1

Mina Markovic and Guillaume Glairon Mondet on Final 1

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Women’s 1

Alex flashing Final 1

Alex flashing Final 1

First up for women was Alex Puccio. Despite the technical nature of the climb it was vertical to overhanging the entire way and Alex stuck her thrutchy solution to the first move (she went right to the undercling instead of left) and flashed! 1/1

Mina Markovic came out looking strong, did the first move far more easily than Puccio had by crossing left to the undercling, got bonus, then fell near the top of the problem jumping to the yellow sloper volume. Again. 3rd go she kept it together and sent! 1/3

Katha Saurwein was next. She fell off the bottom a couple of times, then got bonus hold and fell where Mina had fallen. 1/3

Akiyo Noguchi was next. Casually flashed. 1/1

Anna Stöhr, world cup hero on her home ground. Flashed easily. 1/1

Shauna did like Alex Puccio and went right hand off the start, though it looked less thrutchy for her. Unfortunately she then fell like Mina Markovic, slipping off the jump from the bonus to the yellow volume. Next go she stuck the move and finished the problem. 1/2

Standings after Final 1 (due to countbacks)

Anna 1t1

Akiyo 1t1

Alex P 1t1

Shauna 1t3

Mina 1t3

Katha 1t3

~

Men’s 1

Jernej staring down the sloper that apparently is the crux of final 1

Jernej staring down the sloper that apparently is the crux of final 1

For men Jernej Kruder struggled to get off the bonus hold (black triangle volume) to the next large blue sloper and after many goes ended up scored for bonus only.

Guillaume Glairon Mondet was next for men and he too struggled with the volumes, getting no higher than Jernej did.

Cedric Lachat came out next, also began by falling off. He tried a lot but didn’t even make bonus.

Jakob Schubert came out next, flashed to volume, fell repeatedly where Jernej did.

Thomas Tauporn fell as Jernej, Guillaume, and Jakob did. Bonus, no top.

Dmitrii flashed to bonus but fell matching it. Fell trying to get the sloper as well.

It looked like using the arete would help, but it was marked off so no one could use it.

~

I’ll post more illustrative screen shots later, but finals is currently happening so this is all I have time for now. Problem 2!

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