Thanks to everyone who came out for the first comp of Spot Bouldering Series Season 9! Dyno Mite was a great success with a good turnout of competitors for the youth and adult sessions, a wild dyno comp with awesome jumps from all the competitors, an open final where the top 6 men and women from the main session battled it out on a single finals boulder, and a huge raffle to raise $$ for Boulder Flood Relief efforts.
Open Final Results
1. Alex Johnson 1. Carlo Traversi
2. Margo Hayes 2. Nicholas Milburn
3. Megan Mascarenas 3. Alex Manikowski
4. Nina Williams 4. Matt Lubar
5. Brooke Raboutou 5. Taylor Rose
6. Courtney Sanders 6. Garrett Gregor
See results from the redpoint sessions here: The Spot Bouldering Gym SBS 9
Next up – Psychedelia! Our famous blacklight competition and costume contest will be October 26th this year. Start planning your costume!
Women’s finals started out in an interesting manner when several of the favorites failed to complete the technical and balancey Final 1. Honestly the problem looked a bit easier if you were shorter, but different methods were discovered by different competitors and it’s hard to say what the problem actually felt like. I’d say Isabelle Faus climbed it the easiest, Andrea Szekely climbed it the slowest, and Angie Payne made the most unlikely finish match. Megan Mascarenas looked to be cruising until she got to the 5th hold or so (which from the results I guess was worth 8 points?), at which point she stopped and stood for a short while trying to figure out how to go up. Finally she made a wild jump, fell, and then fell on the bottom a bunch. AJ and Lisa Chulich tried a few things to get through the bottom but none of them worked and both got 4 pts for the problem.
Women’s 2 was a pretty steep, powerful, strange-beta looking rig out the steepest roof on a bunch of volumes.
Faus got out a ways before getting stuck going for the hold on the big volume under the lip.
AJ came on with some real power and experience and fell jumping out left to a big volume under the lip.
…after her major crowd-pleaser moves of spinning around backwards, leg over head, she powered up onto the headwall, sticking and matching the next volume, then fell grabbing the last volume before the finish.
So then unfortunately I wasn’t feeling very well and I had to go lie down for a while. I know, I know, I drove all the way down to Nationals and I got a migraine. I took some migraine pills, had a short nap in the van, and came back in to catch the end of problem 3 and all of problem 4. Sorry I can’t report fully on the rest of 2 but from the results, AJ’s highpoint was hold 13, Angie’s was hold 12 (so I’m assuming the grabbed the headwall volume with one hand but didn’t match), Megan was hold 16 and Puccio’s was hold 18 on try 1, so a flash. I’m not sure the intended sequence, maybe they were all scored as matches so the next volume up from where AJ was would have been 14/15, and the end hold 16/17? But that doesn’t make sense for Puccio getting 18 points, so clearly I missed something in there. Maybe there was a hold on the right side of the last volume or something that was hold 16. The live feed will tell all…
Again, sadly I missed most of this one and the pictures I did get are worse than the ones above, if you can believe that. The problem was another technical boulder and was worth 13 points. Faus, Megan, and AJ flashed it. Andrea did it 2nd try and Puccio did it 3rd try. Lisa got hold 7 on her first try, Angie got hold 8 on her 3rd try.
I’m glad I made it back in for this, as to me it looked like the most exciting problem of the night. Power moves out an overhang on some Myorcan tufa slopers and then some volumes on the headwall. Again AJ came out and nearly flashed, fading 2 moves from the top and then not being able to finish it.
Basically from where AJ is (hold 9) it was a cross to another sloper on the left side of the volume, then a thrutch to the top.
Puccio did Final 4 3rd go for the full 13 points. She’d already won, but she kept trying to give the crowd a send, and everyone was very very psyched when she to to the top.
AJ got the next highest, with 9 points. Angie got 8. Lisa and Megan got 6. Andrea and Faus got 5.
1. Alex Puccio – 3 tops, 52 points, 7 attempts to tops, 11 attempts to points
2. Andrea Szekely – 2 tops, 38 points, 6 attempts to top, 13 attempts to points
3. Isabelle Faus – 2 tops, 37 points, 4 attempts to tops, 7 attempts to points
4. Megan Mascarenas – 1 top, 43 points, 1 attempt to top, 6 attempts to points
5. Angie Payne – 1 top, 40 points, 3 attempts to top, 12 attempts to points
6. Alex Johnson – 1 top, 40 points, 1 attempt to top, 7 attempts to points
7. Lisa Chulich – no tops, 25 points, 6 attempts to points
So that’s it. Watch the live feed replay if you get a chance, it was a pretty awesome comp. Nice job to all competitors, organizers, volunteers, live feeders, photographers…everyone!
Because there are so many pictures I am dividing these into problem sets. This is Women’s 3 & 4. 1 & 2 and Men’s coming soon.
Women’s Final 3
This problem involved some steep moves and sequence reading to a committing dyno. The cross under looked powerful, and grabbing two left-facing bubble wraps and jumping out left to the two huge teknik blocs was somewhat intimidating to watch. The dyno produced the correct effect of wild swings and drama for the crowd. From there it was either a long lock off (Alex), a mantle/lock-off (Shauna) or use the arete and stand up (lurch for Anna, casual heel-hook for Jule) to the finish.
Problem 3 Performance:
Anna, Shauna, Alex Johnson – Flash
Jule – 2nd go (fell at dyno first go)
Alex Puccio, Mélanie – flash to bonus, no top
Women’s Final 4
This problem had Team America written all over it. Powerful moves up a steep arete with a dynamic move to a bubble-wrap and a struggle to the finish. Alex and Alex clawed their way up it one after the other. The rest of the competitors had more trouble–with Anna Stöhr taking 5 tries to seal the deal. Shauna almost made it but was too tired in the end to do the last two moves. Jule, after leading through the comp, fell apart here and couldn’t even make it to the bonus hold.
Problem 4 Performance:
Alex Johnson – flash
Alex Puccio – flash
Anna Stohr – bonus 2nd try, top 5th try
Shauna Coxsey – flash to bonus, no top
Mélanie Sandoz – flash to bonus, no top
Juliane Wurm – no bonus, no top
Full Women’s Final Results from IFSC - IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: provisional Resultlist Final W O M E N bouldering
Full Women’s Results for entire comp - IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result W O M E N bouldering
Men’s Coming Soon!
I missed most of this round as well. We camped and got up way too late. Oops. So I don’t have any photos of 1 or 2 for men or women. Here are 3, 4, and 5.
After semis, only 2 Americans were still in it. Alex Johnson went into finals in 4th, and Alex Puccio went in in 6th. Our highest ranking boy was Daniel Woods in 10th place.
Finalists (top 6 semifinalists)
1. Jule Wurm GER
2. Shauna Coxsey GBR
3. Mélanie Sandoz FRA
4. Alex Johnson USA
5. Anna Stöhr AUT
6. Alex Puccio USA
1. Jakob Schubert AUT
2. Rei Sugimoto JPN
3. Jan Hojer GER
4. Guillaume Glairon Mondet FRA
5. Sean McColl CAN
6. Kilian Fischhuber AUT
Full Semis Results:
SBS Highlines & Highballs Open Results + Commercials – Alex Honnold & Katie Brown, and Chris Sharma selling watches?!
Highballs & Highlines Open Finals Results
Yes, it was exciting. As usual. Three members of Boulder’s Team ABC made finals, giving the start of the finals some orange flair. On top of that, we staggered start times due to a men’s finals no show, so our 2nd girl ABC’er and 1st guy ABC’er ended up climbing at the same time. There was SO MUCH ORANGE! I’ll write up a longer rundown later, but til then here are the results:
1. Alex “Socks” Johnson (fumbled the accursed BEAR CLAW!)
2. Matty Hong (1 move below Alex)
3. Garrett Gregor (we messed up scoring a little at comp time, Garrett actually earned 7- so he should have been 3rd)
4. Alex Manikowski (6+)
5. Michael O’Rourke (6+, qualified lower than Alex M so in 5th actually instead of 3rd)
6. Matt Lubar (6+, last qualifier so in 6th here)
1. Megan Mascarenas (flash!)
2. Nina Williams (14-)
3. Tiffany Hensley (13-, top qualifier of the next 4 climbers)
4. Isabelle Goodacre (13-)
5. Gabi Masse (13-)
6. Jesse Youngwerth (7)
I can’t find any more pictures of it yet, so here’s a picture of Maddie in the youth section of the comp.
You may have seen this recent Citibank Ad featuring Alex Honnold and Katie Brown.
No, that is not Katie’s voice. You can read an interesting blog about how that all went down on Beth Rodden’s Blog.
But you probably didn’t know that Chris Sharma ditched his hot Spanish lifestyle and went climbing in Italy. Well, check this out:
He ties the rope, but did you see him use it?
We’re glad to see that climbers are finally getting paychecks from other industries!
Highballs & Highlines Results & Reset
We will be resetting Monday – Friday in the mornings. If you want to climb only comp style go to The Spot today. Tomorrow afternoon (after 4 is a safe bet) there will be at least 1 new wall for you. Etc. for the rest of the week until the gym is fairly full.
The rest of the SBS 7 Highballs & Highlines Wrap Up is coming later this week. Photos, full results, and more. Stay tuned, and see you at The Spot!
The rest of the results will be up soon (preliminaries at least) but here are the top results from the open final. We had 6 men and 7 women due to a tie for women’s 6th, and we couldn’t take 7 men cause we had a tie for men’s 7th, which would have meant 8 men, which would have meant finals would have run quite long.
Men’s Open Final
I really hope someone took video of this. The guys started on the far left side of the Beach. After a few moves straight up they were handed a bone that was hung with chain from the rafters. They had to jump and swing across the huge open space to grab a large incut jug ledge just left of the center bulge of the Beach. From there they had to down climb and then climb in a semicircle out and right before heading up again into the left side of the bulge.
Matty Hong got the furthest on his flash go and to the same place on his second try, and he ended up falling around 3 holds from the finish. Spot setter Garrett Gregor, who did not set at all for this event, came in 2nd because he fell grabbing at a hold that Matty held. From there people fell off in various places across the semicircle traverse, except the first competitor who didn’t manage to stick the swing. The swing was definitely difficult and took several competitors several tries to stick. Adam Markert, who came out 2nd, stuck it straight away though to the great delight of the crowd and proceeded to spiderman around on the jug for a while before continuing on the problem. Gun Show winner Michael O’Rourke almost didn’t stick the swing, but after several goes he worked it out and made his way down and through part of the traverse. Michael and Alex “socks” Johnson both climb in socks, and for this comp they had matching knee socks that kind of glowed in the blacklight.
It is worth nothing that for the men’s final qualification it came down to falls, meaning that the two guys who tied for 7th, BRC setter Seth Lytton and Logan Jauernigg, were only 2 falls behind 6th place John Brock, and Seregi Kiefel, who qualified in 9th, was only 2 falls behind them.
Men’s Open Final Results
1. Matty Hong
2. Garrett Gregor
3. Adam Markert
4. Alex Johnson
5. Micahel O’Rourke
6. John Brock
The women’s open final started opposite the men’s, with a few hard moves up the right side of the Beach followed by a bone zip-line and a difficult campus move to a jug, followed by a drop down, more mini jugs, another bone, and some hard moves out left where you were supposed to bicycle the bone and then swing your feet around to a heel hook.
That’s not exactly how things went but I don’t have time to lay it all out this second so I’m gonna post this for now and fill in later. Ok, updated now.
Kara Caputo came out first and after a bit of difficulty with the mantle at the beginning deftly rode the zip-line and campused off the end to the first mini jug. She climbed through the small drop down, up the next mini jugs, grabbed the next bone, jump-campus-match-campused to the next mini jug (out left on the right side of the Beach’s overhanging bulge) and then fell campus-crossing to the next hold even further left. Her 2nd go yielded the same result.
Rachel came out next, as she and Kara were tied going into finals. She fell in the same place as Kara on her first go, and then got there once or maybe even twice more before running out of time.
Note – The idea with the 2nd bone was to bicycle the bottom of the bone with your feet so as you moved out left your foothold would sort of extend with you. No competitors seemed to think of this solution though, as, like Kara who tried campusing and Rachel who tried bicycling the bone at the top, everybody either bicycled at the top and therefore were unable to extend all the way left with their feet still on, or abandoned the foot and tried to do the extremely difficult campus move cross left to the sidepull jug. The other pitfall of bicycling the top of the bone is that the bone will suddenly flip and drop you off like a trick trapdoor. This happened to Rachel at least once and Sierra and Nina as well (if I remember correctly).
Paige had a ton of trouble with the zip line and using sport climbing technique couldn’t seem to figure out how to stay high enough on the zip line to catch the next jug.
Tyler Youngwerth whipped right through the zip line and fell higher twice, the 2nd time at Kara and Rachel’s highpoint. Tyler also tried the campus maneuver but was stymied.
Nina Williams, who sets at Miramont out of Fort Collins and is sponsored by event sponsor Vertical Girl, came out next and did almost the same as Tyler, falling at the cruxy cross after trying the campus method.
Sierra Blair-Coyle, visiting from Arizona with Rachel Pienknagura, had a bit of trouble with the zip line at first but once she figured it out she climbed past the previous climbers’ highpoints and got a hand around the corner onto a foot jib but was unable to grab the next handhold. If she’d bicycled the bone down lower she might have been able to keep moving out left with her feet on, as it was she tried the jump-campus twice but was not successful.
Finally, Gun Show winner, 13 year-old Megan Mascarenas of Colorado Springs, came out in her Verve pants, Mad Rocks, and glowing cat ears to give the problem a go. The crowd was worried as she fell over and over from the zip line. Finally she stopped to rest and re-examine the end of the problem. After working through the sequence in her mind she grabbed the start holds, stuck the zip line move, and proceeded to hike the rest of the problem. When she encountered the difficult section at the lip of the bulge she CAMPUSED through it–campusing from the hold everyone else fell off to stick the hold Sierra fell off, then campusing to the foothold, to the next left handhold, and, after trying and rejecting the left foot heel hook, campusing her left hand up AGAIN to the next high hand hold. After that she put her foot on, crossed into a gaston, and casually rocked out left to the finish hold. The crowd went absolutely nuts. The future of climbing was once again on display at the Spot open finals, and Megan’s performance was amazing, impressive, and most of all inspiring–an fantastic ending to a wonderful evening.
Women’s Open Final Results
1. Megan Mascarenas
2. Sierra Blair-Coyle
tie for 3rd:
3. Kara Caputo
3. Rachel Pienknagura
5. Tyler Youngwerth
6. Nina Williams
7. Paige Claassen
Eindhoven IFSC World Cup 2011 Final Results, Daniel Woods 2nd Place + Screenshots from the Live Feed!
Daniel Woods takes 2nd place!
The Eindhoven finals were very exciting to watch, especially the 4th Men’s problem (pictured above), which started out looking too easy as it was flashed by Thomas Caleyron and Francois Kaiser. Next Dave Barrans came out and started off strong, only to misjudge his feet and fall in the middle. Dmitry Sharafutdinov also got too hurried, and instead of figuring out the last-move heel hook he jumped for the last hold and fell. He sent 2nd go. Daniel came out and flashed handily, securing a second place and keeping him in the running for first–a place it looked like he might take as Kilian fell in the middle of final 4 on his first try. After taking a few moments to compose himself, Kilian jumped back on and finished the problem, keeping his win.
Women’s finals were similarly exciting, and after the first few problems the field was broken down into Anna Stöhr and Akiyo Noguchi fighting for first and Melissa Le Neve and Juliane Wurm battling it out for third. On problem 4 the first two competitors got shut down on the very powerful 3rd move. Juliane came out and made some great attempts, but the move to the bonus hold (from the volume to the volume, in the screenshot below) proved to be a bit too long for her. Melissa almost flashed the problem, moving confidently through the bottom only to fall off the last hold. Her second go was successful, and she secured her 3rd place.
It came down to Anna and Akiyo, and attempts were definitely still a factor in determining the winner. Anna came out first, climbed straight through the bottom, then fell from the last move as Melissa had. Her next go was successful, but Akiyo gained just a little more room to keep her first place. Akiyo came out all smiles and hiked the problem in what seemed like 10 seconds flat, then trotted back to iso with a first place win and a big grin on her face.
Vail Coverage Wrap-Up
Fun Facts and Awesome Photos
I meant to put this out the other week, but things got busy and it didn’t get done. However, for those who are interested, here are a few interesting notes about the finalists interspersed with a few great photos from all rounds of the comp borrowed from Austria Climbing Team photographer Heiko Wilhelm.
Of the 12 finalists, Kilian, Alex Puccio, and Jonas have previously won a Vail World Cup and Akiyo, Anna, Jain, Guillaume, Kilian, Dmitry, have won other World Cup events this season. That’s 8 World Cup Champions out of 12 finalists.
This was the first Bouldering World Cup finals appearance for Chris Webb-Parsons, Rei Sugimoto, and Angie Payne.
This was Melissa La Neve’s third time making finals in a Bouldering World Cup, and she has come in 3rd each time.
Alex Puccio has made finals at every Bouldering World Cup she’s ever entered, though her only win so far was in Vail in 2009. This season she has taken two 2nd place finishes, one 3rd place, and two 6th places.
This was Anna Stöhr’s fourth time making finals in Vail, and her first win. She has previously taken 2nd, 3rd, and 4th places.
Perhaps even more interesting, not a single male finalist in Vail made finals at the World Cup last week in Canmore. Kilian was closest, with 9th place.
The women’s field was similar to Canmore, with Melissa La Neve replacing Juliane Wurm (GER) but the rest of the field staying the same. Alex Johnson took 7th in both Canmore and Vail, barely missing finals both times.
Alison Osius of Rock and Ice wrote a nice little article about competitions, competitors, and expectations that you can read here: Tough Crowd
The next World Cup will be in Eindhoven, the Netherlands, this weekend — June 17th and 18th. Watch it live on http://ifIFSC TVsc.tv
World Cup Pre-Game at The Spot
The week before the comp was pretty busy at the Spot, with teams from Japan, Korea, Germany, the Netherlands, Australia, France, Germany, and more getting acclimated and ready for qualifiers on our boulders. These last two photos are of various World Cup competitors in our gym.
Men’s 2011 SCS Nationals Results
Carlo crushed! He qualified for finals in 3rd place, and when the dust settled he is still in 3rd place, but on the finals route he scored the highest, meaning if they used old-style scoring (score by round and count back if necessary, instead of cumulative scoring) Carlo would have won nationals! As it is, he has earned his place on the US National Team for route climbing, meaning he can compete in the first ropes World Cup to be held in the US since…I don’t know…it has been a long time though. Here are the top men’s final results:
[ranking) name (qualis total) (finals total) (team points total)]
1) Magnus Midtboe (802.40) (94.16) (200.39) *Magnus is not a US citizen so technically Matty Hong is the best American climber at the moment.
2) Matty Hong (800.44) (94.16) (200.10) — US Team 2011
3) Carlo Traversi (755.92) (95.82) (194.84) — US Team 2011
4) Jon Cardwell (712.96) (85.00) (179.19) — US Team 2011
5) Alex Johnson (646.81) (88.33) (172.10)
Just for fun, let’s look at the results if the event was scored on the basis of each round individually (i.e. if you won finals you won the comp). The top 5 results would then be:
1) Carlo Traversi
2) Magnus & Matty tied (after countbacks Magnus would beat Matty, or there’d be a superfinal to determine the 2nd place finisher)
4) Alex Johnson
5) Jon Cardwell
I made a cursory search of USAC’s websites but I was unable to figure out why they score this way or find the document defining the rules, scoring system, and points calculations for SCS Open Nationals. They are not the same as the World Cup system, which, if you are interested, you can attempt to wade through here: IFSC Rules. I’m not sure how long adult SCS has been scored this way, though I believe youth has been scored this way for a while. The goal, as I understand it, is to pick the competitors for the US National team who perform the best throughout the event in hopes of having the strongest team possible at World Cup events. I’m interested to know more if anyone wants to comment.
Women’s 2011 SCS Nationals Results
Sasha DiGiulian maintained her lead and won the comp, being the only competitor in any category to flash her finals route. Like the men’s category, the 2nd best scoring competitor on the finals route (Alex Johnson) ended up in a lower place after the cumulative score was tallied, but she still made the US Ropes Team. I think it’s pretty impressive that AJ managed a top 4 finish at ropes nationals considering she barely ever climbs on a rope, and in fact just got back from a trip to Hueco. In any case:
1) Sasha DiGiulian (785.43) (100.00) (202.81) — US Team 2011
2) Paige Claassen (768.62) (72.55) (176.96) — US Team 2011
3) Dana Riddle (774.65) (61.76) (168.69) — US Team 2011
4) Alex Johnson (655.43) (76.48) (163.33) — US Team 2011
Hopefully some pictures and video will show up soon.
Nice job everyone!
Things were looking good heading into semifinals, but, well, I have no idea what happened because I didn’t see it, but after the dust settled Carlo and Jon were in 22nd and 23rd, Garrett was in 18th, and Daniel Woods was in 10th, and the group of 8 men going into finals looked about halfway like The Gladiator Final or the Battle in The Bubble, with just a tad of Canada to make things exciting. So the running order for men’s finals was:
8. Alex Johnson (Gladiator Finals 3rd place winner)
7. Matty Hong (2nd place at Psychedelia and Highline/Highball)
6. Nic Sherman (Setter for SBS Season VI)
5. Zach Lerner (strong kid from the East)
4. Ian Dory (Multi-time SBS VI finalist, 2nd at Gladiator Finals)
3. Kyle Owen (Remember his crazy sideways dynos on the Hueco boulder?)
2. Austin Geiman (Almost took a digger on final 1 at the Battle in The Bubble)
1. Sean McColl (Canadian wunder-climber)
Things on the women’s side kept looking strong, with the 3 A’s at the top of the pack and a few other strong ladies you’ve most likely heard of filling out the 7 finalists. In reverse qualification order (i.e. finals running order) they were:
7. Kasia Pietras
6. Sasha DiGiulian
5. Tiffany Hensley (multi-time SBS VI winner)
4. Francesca Metcalf
3. Alex Johnson
2. Angela Payne
1. Alex Puccio
I’d love to describe this in detail, but I didn’t see any of it. Luckily, the results were posted here: UBC Results & Running Orders. Unluckily, at the moment they aren’t working, but if you click the link I bet they’ll be back up. I don’t remember anything besides top 3, who were:
1. Sean McColl
2. Alex Johnson
3. Kyle Owen
1. Alex Puccio
2. Francesca Metcalf
3. Sasha DiGiulian
Incidentally, because Sean is Canadian, I think it means that Alex Johnson is officially the best male boulderer in America at the moment. Also interesting, both 2nd placers and women’s 3rd place are under 19 years old, and men’s 3rd place Kyle Owen is only 20. Sean and Alex aren’t a whole lot older, at 23 and 21, respectively, but they’re already some of the older competitors in a game that is increasingly being taken over by the young guns. Anyways, here is a link to an article that the Boulder Daily Camera put together that has a video and photos including one of our very own Carlo: Climbers take on Boulder warehouse walls in colorful championship event – Boulder Daily Camera. I’ll post more media if I see it, but in the meantime check out Facebook for photos from many of the competitors.