These problems appeared to be Balance, Power, Power, Power.
Only Alex and Anna sent everything in Group A, and they are tied for 1st with 8 total attempts each. Alex took 5 tries on quali 1 (a mantle to stand-up on a slab) and then flashed the rest. Anna flashed 1 & 2, then took 3 tries each to send 3 and 4. Momoko Oda is just behind them with 3 flashes and a flash to bonus on problem 2, but she didn’t finish problem 2.
For Group B, Akiyo Noguchi looked casual, flashing the first 3 before taking 3 tries to send problem 4. Her score was the best of the round–4 tops in 6 goes, and she was one of only 3 Group B competitors to send all their qualis.
Just behind her was Shauna Coxsey, who flashed 1, 3, & 4, but epiced on 2 for a minute with 3 goes to bonus and 5 goes to top. She was the only person to flash Quali B4. Her score then is 4/8 just like Anna and Alex in Group A.
Third in Group B is Swiss climber Petra Klingler, who has been having an interesting season. She’s missed semis twice but made in in 1st place in Kitzbuhel, only to fall to 14th in semis and not make finals. In this quali she flashed the first 3, then took 6 tries to send problem 4, for a score of 4/9. Hopefully she has a successful semifinal as well.
I’d like to give some props to my friend Thomasina Pidgeon. Thomo is a Canadian climber, first famous from her ascent of the V10 Zero-Zero in Squamish in the early 2000s after only a couple of years of climbing, continually famous as the strongest female boulderer in Canada, who has sent many problems up to V12 outdoors and made many FFAs, and who is also the mother of a darling 6-year-old named Cedar. Two years ago around this time Thomo was sitting on my couch and we were watching the live feed of a bouldering World Cup.
“I want to do that.” She said.
“You should.” I said.
But she had some concerns. She isn’t a very dynamic climber. She’s not much of a plastic climber. She’s 10-20 years older than most of the competitors. She has a 6 year old daughter. Traveling to these comps is expensive, and there is no federation support. She has no trainer or physio. She doesn’t have much comp experience. Etc…etc… She also has a reputation to uphold, especially in Canada, and as a somewhat mysterious strong female boulderer, it’s risky to go out on a world stage and possibly prove that notion wrong. However, other older female competitors, some with children, helped Thomo see that it would be possible. She understood that competing is a different animal than outdoor climbing, and that if she went out and tried hard and failed, that wouldn’t change her accomplishments or abilities as a climber. If anything, she figured, she would grow from the experience.
Despite the difficulties and the risks, she decided to go for it–to push herself in a new way, to try competing, on ropes and in bouldering–and see what happened. In 2012 she earned a spot on the National team and competed in the Vail World Cup, where she got 31st out of 41 women. Then she and Cedar got plane tickets to Europe, and off they went.
She’s not much of a rope climber, though she’s trying to learn that also. In July 2012 she competed in the Lead World Cup in Chamonix. She had a bit of a tweaked finger, and when things started to go south she grabbed a draw rather than hurt herself and took 55th. In Briancon she took 47th. In Imst in August she took 39th, and at the next event, a Bouldering World Cup in Munich, she took 35th. 47th in bouldering at the World Championships in Paris was her last event for the 2012 season. In 2013 she’s done as many Bouldering World Cups as she can get to, with 40th in Millau, 51st in Kitzbuhel, 35th in Log Dragomer, and now 53rd in Innsbruck. She’s learning from each experience, and for all of us armchair World Cup viewers, her blog is well worth reading:
I’d like to say great job to Thomo for being so brave. The fact that she’s competing is super inspiring, and I hope she continues to compete, learn, and enjoy herself, and hopefully she’ll find her way into semifinals one of these days!
Women’s Quali Results
20 women are going to semis.
Full Women’s Quali Results
Re-watch the Live Feed
Women’s Quali 1
The first problem for each quali group (the rightmost two problems in the picture above) were identical or nearly identical. You can see Melissa Le Neve of group B in the middle of one of them.
Women’s Quali 2
The second problems were quite different. On the far left is Alex Puccio on Group B Problem 2. The problem was balancy and technical but it got done and Alex was one of the girls who sent it.
In the middle of the photo above is Shauna Coxsey on Group A Problem 2. This problem looked very balancy as well and the bottom was ok but the last two moves were causing some major issues. Shauna fell at the very top, Anna Stöhr just a tad lower. I didn’t watch all of qualis but I didn’t see anyone send it, and only one climber in Group B had 5 tops, so I’m guessing she was the only person to finish this one. That climber was Olga Iakovlena of Russia, and I don’t know anything about her but so far this season she took 7th last event in Kitzbühel, 16th in Millau, and 14th in Chongqing. She got 2nd at the 2012 World Championships in Paris, so clearly she is a competitor to keep an eye on.
Women’s Quali 3
These looked a bit easier, and were quickly dispatched by some of the strongest girls. Anna Stöhr is on the left on A3, Akiyo Noguchi on the right on B3. Both sent.
Women’s Quali 4
Alex is on B4, Shauna is on A4. On B4, which looked powerful, Alex hiked to this point, then fell from the last move. She then fell from the last move again, then off the bottom a couple of times in the last seconds. She looked to be having friction issues. She didn’t finish this one, but she did the other 4 and goes into Semis tied for 6th. Shauna sent.
Women’s Quali 5
Again, fairly different. Both got done.
Women’s Quali Results
Top 20 go to semifinals. I’m posting them all though to save you the trouble of the IFSC’s website cause I can’t find a permalink.
Some strong climbers who have been doing well this season are out including Swiss climber Petra Klingler, who qualified first in Kitzbuhel.
Watch the Qualifiers replay here:
Overall the women’s problems looked like they may have been a touch easy, as they saw many sends and attempts and count backs separated the field, but they were crowd pleasing and probably necessary as the men’s looked a bit too hard–there were only 4 tops total in the whole final. With the drama about Jakob’s ascent of problem 3, he may not get scored for that top, so really there may technically be only 3 tops in the men’s. We’ll see.
For the women Akiyo and Anna flashed everything and were separated by countbacks. Alex Puccio took 6 goes to send the 4 finals for 3rd.
Men’s Final Results
Jakob got back on Final 3 and he sent. With 2 tops he wins the comp. Guillaume Glairon Mondet had 1 top, so did Dmitrii Sharafutdinov.
New Live Scoreboard
Worth noting is that there appears to be a new style of live scoreboard at this event. The new style shows in an easy-to-visualize way how far the climbers have progressed and on which problems. Here’s what it looks like:
Sometime soon I’ll probably illustrate the earlier problem-by-problem posts more fully with screen shots and such, or you can just watch the live feed replays via ifsc-climbing.org.
Final Problem 4
Women’s Final 4
First go Alex fell on the 3rd or 4th move. She got back on and climbed the boulder to the top, though it definitely looked hard and from the viewer’s perspective there was a question as to whether or not she’d fall off on nearly every move. She didn’t. Nice Alex!
Mina Markovic got up to the big orange death star / donut, squeezed her way up the arete, did some kind of kneebar to move to the top. I guess it was a flash? Nice Mina!
Katha did well on the start, then seemed to struggle moving out to the donut. She hesitated, then just skipped it, went to bonus, right toe in donut, basically just dynoed to the top. Didn’t look that hard for her. Done.
Akiyo doesn’t seem to be having as easy a time with this as she did with the last. She seems to struggle but keeps going slowly and finishes the boulder.
Anna went backwards to the first hold but matched it somehow and kept going up. She also ignored the donut for her hands, only putting a heel in it, and easily finishing for the flash and the win.
Shauna is last out. She looks strong, climbs the bottom well, probably the best anyone has done it. Up to bonus with an inside flag. Foot in the donut, up to the last holds, feet cut and she swung them around for a bit long, finally pasted right foot on, jumped, barely stuck the top but did. Flash.
Men’s Final 4
Jernej Kruder stuck the double dyno but fell after trying to get out right to the bonus hold. Next go he got bonus via 360 backwards spin, got over on it, moved his feet over left, heel hooked, spun back around, heel hooked other foot, stuck the next hold, then fell trying to stick the big red sloper up and left. Fell there again. Done. Final score, ot, 3b.
Guillaume stuck the double dyno. Moved out right to bonus. Sitting on left heel moves up right to blue mouth sloper, sits on heel more, up left to red sloper, sticks it, jump-crosses to finish hold but falls. Again, but this time stems out to other wall, matches on red sloper, falls. Again. Can’t quite stick the last hold. Done.
Cedric climbed through the bottom easily as Guillaume had, fell where Guillaume did moving to the finish several times. Made the match on the red sloper nicely with the foot out left, but fell jumping to the last hold. No send. Gets back on. Too tired. Done.
Jakob came out and fell from the double dyno. If he finishes the problem he will win the comp. Next go he got through bonus, did a sweet vertical toe-cam, fell. Went back up, STUCK LAST MOVE! Two tops. Wins!
Thomas can’t win, but anyone who does this problem will podium, so he still has a chance at silver or bronze. We didn’t get to see all his tries as Anna was busy winning, but when they go back to him you can see him having had the bonus and falling. Didn’t finish.
Last out, Dmitrii, who, if he flashes, could actually win the comp due to the:
The announcer just came on saying that Jakob’s start position for problem 3 has been deemed illegal so that top was taken away from him. They’re going to make him try to re-climb problem 3 and if he doesn’t do it he may not win. The Austrian coach is NOT HAPPY.
So Dmitrii has his turn. Not sure if he knows about the situation with the scores and Jakob. He flashes to the last move and falls. Dmitrii goes back up, is climbing the bottom easily. Matching the red sloper easily. Jumps to the end and finishes. He is in 3rd at the least. Podium!
Jakob last go on Final Problem 3
So Jakob has to climb again. This problem looks super hard and it is disappointing for everyone I expect that he has to climb it again, but he does, so everyone is waiting around for that to happen. It goes, he sends! He wins!!!
Final Problems 3
Women’s Final 3
Alex Puccio came out strong, flashed the problem seemingly easily.
Mina fell off part way up. Got back on. The holds looked like pretty bad sloper pinches with a bit of a fonty texture. Fell going for last move. Got back up there. Fell again. So close, fell again at the last move.
Katha fell at the bottom some. Seems to be have trouble sticking the bonus. I didn’t see her stick it.
The head setter Percey came out with a ladder and brushed the hold at the top, the 2nd to last hold on the problem, which Mina had seemed to have so much trouble holding onto to do the last move.
Akiyo flashed pretty easily. She got that last hold Percey brushed with one hand and pretty much one-armed to the top. It looked great, but it was kinda weird how easily she did it and how much trouble Mina was having on the same hold. Akiyo is redic strong though so it’s hard to say, but I can’t recall ever seeing a head setter come out with a ladder and brush a hold mid-comp before.
Anna flashed easily. She didn’t do the last move as easily as Akiyo had, but she did it easily enough.
Shauna seems to be climbing really carefully, trying not to fall off. She static-ed nearly every move, climbing in control and slowly slowly slowly. She locked off the last move casually. Flash.
Men’s Final 3
Kruder came out, looked at the problem for a while. Finally stepped off the ground, really seemed to be struggling but also trying hard not to fall off. Fell off. Tried a few different things, but kept falling. Pretty sure he didn’t even get bonus point.
Guillaume came out next, looked to be struggling as well. Fell where Jernej did. Then fell at start. Fell more. Ugh.
Cedric managed to get his left hand over instead of his right on the orange hold, letting him press out and stick, then match the bonus. The bonus is that EP teardrop volume, which apparently called the “Jiu-Jitsu hold” and was designed by well-known coursesetter Laurent LaPorte. Cedric got through the bottom again, seems to really be struggling working his way around the volume. Fell.
Jakob looked good, then dropped suddenly before bonus, looking like he twinged his shoulder a bit. Got back on, fell again. Fell a bunch more. Finally pressed out like Cedric did and got bonus. The live feed announcer said go right, and it made no sense to anyone, but Jakob actually did go right, gastoning the top of the volume. From there he lurched to a left hand crimp, came out quite a bit but stuck, and finished the problem! It was only the 2nd men’s top in the entire comp so far. He was very psyched, as was the hometown crowd.
Thomas flashed to press on the bonus, then fell. Did the bottom again, it looks pretty easy for him, but he falls moving into the volume again. Fell a bunch, no success.
Dmitrii managed bonus, matched bonus, left hand up (like Cedric was trying), moved his foot up, fell. Fell again. Lots of times. No send.
Screenshots to come later. For now, Problem 4!
Alex Puccio pressed up into the corner on the boss-looking slopers, got up over the lip, stuck what looked like a hard move over the lip to a crimp, foot up, pressed into an orange sidepull, lurched smoothly right hand to the finish hold. I thought it was her 2nd flash but the announcer says she did it 2nd go so I guess she must have fallen at the bottom once, or he is wrong.
Mina pressed through the bottom, then fell jumping over the bulge to the second orange crimp when she didn’t quite hit the hold right. The move looked hard for Alex as well. Next go she showed off her famous flexibility, heel hooked over her hand, rocked up, and static-ed the move. For the last move she went out to the arete (as the announcer suggested), came back, went back out, tried a high heel, rocked over, couldn’t quite get her hand to the finish hold, tried again, slipped off, done. It was a great effort and too bad she didn’t finish.
Katha came out, and the feed froze. So…suck. Not sure what is happening. The feed came back but I’m not sure what happened except Katha didn’t make the top.
Akiyo looked a little confused at the start, trying different positions before committing to leave the ground. When she did she got into the roof holds smoothly, stuck the jump to the crimp, made her way up to the top, toehooked left on arete, crossed to finish. Flash.
Anna got through the bottom, stuck the difficult crimp, went out to the arete, tried heel like Mina had, then went back and jumped to finish left hand, sticks, flash, back in 1st.
Shauna looked to be struggling getting out to the blobs, then got on them and looked good, then fell moving up to the first orange crimp over the lip. Fell again. Fell on slopers, seemed to be really struggling more with them than any other competitor thus far has. Got back out on them. Fell again. No top.
The only slab in finals.
Jernej Kruder climbed the bottom ok but fell trying to stick the bonus hold.
Guillaume used a different method and managed to balance his way to the bonus hold with a toehook. It looked like a fair amount of smear-campusing but he wasn’t quite able to stick the finish. Next go he again got through the bottom, left foot on light green triangle, finished! 1t2
Cedric slipped off the bottom, and then the feed froze. When it came back he was past bonus but I don’t think he finished.
Jakob flashed to bonus with his left hand, then came back down to move his body around and try to continue climbing. He slipped off.
Thomas comes from a different direction, heel hooking to go right hand to bonus, but he can’t get out of the position and falls. Again same thing. 3rd time same thing, he doesn’t seem to be learning from his positional difficulties once he’s got bonus, and since he’s already scored for it it’d be good to try something else probably. Fell again. Seemed to figure it out, went left to bonus and was leaning out right, fell, out of time. Done.
Dmitrii tried to get his balance but fell before getting bonus. Kept falling off. Tried for bonus both hands, as far as I saw couldn’t stick it.
I will probably add screen shots later to illustrate, but this is live, so this is what I have time to post now.
Finals Problem 1
First up for women was Alex Puccio. Despite the technical nature of the climb it was vertical to overhanging the entire way and Alex stuck her thrutchy solution to the first move (she went right to the undercling instead of left) and flashed! 1/1
Mina Markovic came out looking strong, did the first move far more easily than Puccio had by crossing left to the undercling, got bonus, then fell near the top of the problem jumping to the yellow sloper volume. Again. 3rd go she kept it together and sent! 1/3
Katha Saurwein was next. She fell off the bottom a couple of times, then got bonus hold and fell where Mina had fallen. 1/3
Akiyo Noguchi was next. Casually flashed. 1/1
Anna Stöhr, world cup hero on her home ground. Flashed easily. 1/1
Shauna did like Alex Puccio and went right hand off the start, though it looked less thrutchy for her. Unfortunately she then fell like Mina Markovic, slipping off the jump from the bonus to the yellow volume. Next go she stuck the move and finished the problem. 1/2
Standings after Final 1 (due to countbacks)
Alex P 1t1
For men Jernej Kruder struggled to get off the bonus hold (black triangle volume) to the next large blue sloper and after many goes ended up scored for bonus only.
Guillaume Glairon Mondet was next for men and he too struggled with the volumes, getting no higher than Jernej did.
Cedric Lachat came out next, also began by falling off. He tried a lot but didn’t even make bonus.
Jakob Schubert came out next, flashed to volume, fell repeatedly where Jernej did.
Thomas Tauporn fell as Jernej, Guillaume, and Jakob did. Bonus, no top.
Dmitrii flashed to bonus but fell matching it. Fell trying to get the sloper as well.
It looked like using the arete would help, but it was marked off so no one could use it.
I’ll post more illustrative screen shots later, but finals is currently happening so this is all I have time for now. Problem 2!
Tierra Boulder Battle 2013!
This is a few weeks late, but I’m posting it anyways. You may have watched this comp on the live feed, which was pretty good as the comp was going for high production value and in many ways they delivered. I’ve got a link to the feed video at the bottom of this page. There are other reasons this event was sweet, and those reasons include:
Small field, invite only, all world class female boulderers. As event organizer Björn Pohl said, he invited who he wanted to see compete. Competitors were:
Alex Puccio (USA)
Matilda Söderlund (Sweden)
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (UK)
Melissa Le Neve (France)
Therese Johansen (Norway)
Anja Hodann (Sweden)
Instead of win-only payment: travel, accommodations, and 800 euro were paid to each competitor just for going.
Three day event, but only a single day, single round comp. Finals only.
First day, all climbers to go the gym, each climber sets a boulder problem for the comp. All competitors get a 2 hr “work” session to climb on all the problems.
Next day is a rest day with dress up photo shoots and other fun activities.
Next day is Comp Day.
Climbers are introduced as they are lowered one by one down through fog to the bouldering area.
Only one person is climbing at a time. The whole field moves problem by problem and each climber gets a few minutes to try each problem. Easy to watch all tries from each climber and have live video without anyone missing any of the action.
The first climber of each problem is the setter of that problem for the first 5 problems.
For the last problem climbers climb in reverse order of standing, so current 1st place climber goes last.
Winner gets the huge Tierra Boulder Battle hold, they all get other prizes too.
It looked like a lot of fun!
I am torn on doing an event play-by-play. I’ve got the screenshots for it, but you can just as easily watch the “backstage pass” here:
4. Mélissa Le Nevé
5. Therese Johansen
6. Anja Hodann
Women’s Problem 4
I didn’t catch the proposed grade.
Anna flashed? I thought 2nd go. Owned it though.
Katha sticks double dyno, falls moving off it. No bonus.
Jule gets up to bonus, falls on next move. Gets up again, falls again. No top.
Akiyo fell 1st go. 2nd go up to bonus, struggling with beta, bumps, tries to bump in, falls. Does it again, falls from next move. Done, no top.
If Shauna flashes she wins. She falls on the double dyno, not going to get gold, may get silver if she tops. If she tops 2nd go she’d tie Anna. Fell again. Now can only get silver max. Sticks the dyno 3rd go. Finishes the boulder. Top! Silver!
Puccio came out last, hiked the problem.
Here are the UNOFFICIAL (i.e. pre appeals period) results from Millau for women:
Men’s Problem 4
(but the announcer said more straightforward/easier than the last one)
Lucas came out and climbed up high, got bonus, but fell. Then he struggled.
Kilian came out strong, got bonus, fell moving up right to another volume. If he sends he wins. If not, and if someone else does, they could win. Very exciting. Kilian got back up, used a slightly better method, fell again.
Back again, does this double knee crouch thing, shifts right, grabs the top. Sends! Wins!
Guillaume got bonus first go. Fell above, as Kilian did, wrestling with the volumes. Didn’t finish.
Rustam came out next, looked good, did the problem 2nd go for his only send in Finals.
UNOFFICIAL (before appeals) Men’s Results
Women’s Problem 3
Anna is falling off. Mantling up a wall on volumes. Got the bonus (2nd or 3rd go?). Finished the boulder.
Katha starts to mantle but falls. Falls again. Starts to mantle, grabs the tiny handhold mid-wall to help the mantle, but can’t get her left foot up to stand. Jumped to the bonus but didn’t stick it. Done.
Jule flashed. Yeah!
Akiyo did another ridiculous stem/mantle. She may have the most flexible hips ever. The female announcer is trying to describe it and failing. Akiyo makes it to bonus, does a ridiculous stand up, jumps to the finish. Flashes!
Shauna came out next. She looked good on the mantle, didn’t quite hit the undercling out right exactly right, but it didn’t seem to matter. Sized up the last move, jumped big, got it (but it looked like barely!). Great!
Alex struggled to get up on the mantle and fell off at least twice. Third go looked better, she touched bonus before falling.
Men’s Problem 3
“the hardest” 7b+ (V8, like prob 2) but harder the head setter thinks
Lucas is falling off. First move a deadpoint to a gaston of a volume. Sticks it and messes around on volumes but can’t get anywhere. Sort of gets his right foot up, then falls. Done.
Kilian is in first as of now, with 2 tops. Falls from the start repeatedly. Can’t seem to get the first move, or even bonus. Done.
Guillaume had a similar experience. Eventually changed his shoes. Stuck the first move, got on the volumes, touched bonus, foot out right, fell. Fell more. Stuck first move again and fell more. Done.
Rustam Gelmanov didn’t do the first move.
Jorg eventually did do the first, but fell trying to control the bonus. Then he quit and walked off with 19 seconds left.
Dmitrii was last. He actually figured out the bottom of the problem, got bonus, got his foot out right, got his body over, and fell moving up to the last two holds. Unfortunately he’s scored the same as everyone else who got bonus, so still in 5th.