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ABS Nationals 2014! Finals Wrap-Up and Results UPDATED

February 23, 2014 2 comments
Michael O'Rourke

Michael O’Rourke on Men’s Semi 3

There is a lot that can be said about this exciting ABS Nationals, but if you have the internet you’ve probably seen or read most of it already. For those who don’t want to do the digging and don’t have time to watch the replays, I’ve offered some thoughts on finals below.

Megan Mascarenas nearly finished Women's Final 4  |  Keith North

Megan Mascarenas nearly finished Women’s Final 4 | Keith North

~

Women’s Finals

For the viewer (at least at home) the women’s finals were far less exciting than the men’s. One reason might be that the male climber seemed to take precedence on the live feed, so the opinion of those of us watching at home may be biased because of that. I hate to be too critical as I know how hard it is to set for these types of events and also as I usually prefer to set and climb a more technical type boulder (as these were), but the consensus among those I’ve talked with is that the women’s finals just didn’t seem as cool as the men’s. They did succeed in getting the job done though, with a clean separation of the field in final scores.

UPDATE – According to competitors the first two women’s finals were actually super fun to climb on. Apologies for assuming they weren’t as cool when really they just didn’t look as good via feed.

UPDATE for clarification – 7 women went to finals because Jule Wurm is German, not American, and they needed six American females in finals. Jule is a talented World Cup climber that you’ve probably heard of by now if you read our World Cup recaps every season.

Final 1 was a pretty basic sequence that seemed a bit more committing for the shorter competitors and involved a mantle/rock-over and then some crimps/edges up a face. Half the field bungled the mantle and fell at least once, but the top didn’t seem too hard (except when Alex Puccio tried to dyno for the last hold first go and missed). Puccio ended up crimping on the side of the volume when she got out of sequence and using that volume edge crimp to do the last move.

Jule Wurm flashing WF1

Jule Wurm flashing WF1. Alex Puccio crimped the bottom left corner of that high blue triangle.

Women’s Final 2 looked the least pleasant of the bunch, as the holds were uninspiring to look at and none of the competitors seemed to be enjoying the climb. The bottom was tensiony on smaller holds, then there was a scrunchy press left on some sloper things, then a “triple-bump” that knocked Alex Johnson off, that Angie Payne managed, that Alex Puccio housed, and that Jule skipped (by standing tall from the 2nd hold to the top of the finish hold). The taller girls as a whole looked miserable on this problem, and I’m not sure how tall Grace is but she, Jule, Angie, and Puccio did it whereas Megan, Margo, and Alex Johnson did not.

Angie sticking the third bump.

Angie sticking the third bump. WF2.

Women’s Final 3 was far more interesting and involved a mantle onto a big volume, then a jump to a main dish with an overhead press on another main dish to stabilize. The setters added a hold to help with the jump and it probably made it possible but it also left some of the competitors stranded in the splits. Puccio, Angie, and Grace didn’t manage to get out of it, but the rest of the competitors sent. This time it seemed the taller competitors had the advantage.

Alex Puccio kinda stuck.

Alex Puccio kinda stuck.

Jule managed to jump out of the splits and into the overhead press.

Jule managed to jump out of the splits and into the overhead press.

Margo with the old head-press-rest.

Margo with the old head-press-rest.

Alex Johnson flashed.

Alex Johnson flashed.

Women’s Final 4 was the showpiece of the bunch with a dyno out the roof that neither Alex Johnson nor Angie managed to stick, though both were painfully close. Margo and Grace stuck it and got up to the powerful undercling match under the lip of the roof, and Margo got her hands above the roof before falling. Margo did some great route style resting and then used a kneebar/twist to get through the first few roof moves. You can tell the girl has climbed at Hueco. I’m so proud. Anyways, at the lip Megan went up with her wrong hand first, but instead of matching as Margo did (she tried but then abandoned the idea), Megan downclimbed to the undercling match, then went up with her correct (right) hand. Megan then proceeded to do two more unlikely looking moves, only to fall off the last move of the boulder! The endurance and power she showed were impressive to say the least, and it’s clear she could have sent if she hadn’t made an energy-sapping mistake. Jule Wurm also climbed to the top of the problem, only to fall going for the finish. That left Alex Puccio who, true to form, stuck the dyno 2nd (or 3rd?) go, then pretty much hiked her way to the top, doing the powerful last move like it was nothing and showing why she is still the American Champion.

Margo copping a rest.

Margo copping a rest.

Jule mid-problem.

Jule mid-problem.

Megan Mascarenas so very close.

Megan Mascarenas so very close.

Alex Puccio doing the last move on the giant baby heads.

Alex Puccio doing the last move on the giant baby heads.

The way the scores work, tops are given the most weight, then points, then flashes/attempts. Jule Wurm and Alex Puccio both climbed 3 boulders, but on the boulder Jule didn’t send, Final 4, she got to the last move, literally touched the last hold, so she got 16 points. On the problem Alex didn’t do she got stuck in the splits early on and so only got 3 points for it. Therefore, Jule is first in this comp and won but Alex Puccio is still considered the American Bouldering Champion.

~

Women’s Final Results

1. Jule Wurm

2. Alex Puccio (US National Champion)

3. Megan Mascarenas

4. Margo Hayes

5. Grace McKeehan

6. Alex Johnson

7. Angie Payne

~

Men’s Finals

The short of it is, Daniel Woods dominated the men’s category with sends of all four boulders, and close on his heels were Vasya Vorotnikov, who made an incredibly exciting send of Men’s Final 2, and a young man named Andy Lamb who came out of nowhere to impress everybody on his way to a third place finish. Michael O’Rourke, climbing in his first ABS Open Nationals final, also gave an impressive showing and though he missed the corner press beta on Men’s Final 1, he was the only competitor besides Daniel to stick a powerful pinch move on Men’s Final 4. Paul Robinson surprised himself by making finals, as he’s been primarily climbing outdoors of late, and he climbed well with a flash of the first problem and a near-send of the third. Finally Jon Cardwell looked strong as always but seemed a bit stymied by reach on all the problems, for example, on Final 1 there was a corner press that he simply couldn’t reach, on Final 2 he was very extended for already extended jumps, on Final 3 he had trouble reaching the final hold with his body in a stable position, and on Final 4 the jump to the pinch was huge, though he nearly made it and had a handful of the hold a couple of times. All in all a good effort from all the men and very exciting viewing.

Paul Robinson styling the corner press on F1.

Paul Robinson styling the corner press on F1.

Jon can't quite reach the good spot. F1.

Jon can’t quite reach the good spot. F1.

Michael O'Rourke eyeing up the bad pinch on Men's Final 2.

Michael O’Rourke eyeing up the bad pinch on Men’s Final 2. He got to the top of the boulder but tried a rose move for the finish and missed the final hold. Below, Vasya shows how it was supposed to be done.

Vasya doing the cross under finish move.

Vasya doing the cross under finish move on F2. Daniel did it this way and sent as well.

The mysterious Andy Lamb atop Men's Final 3.

The mysterious Andy Lamb atop the balancy Men’s Final 3.

Bad shot but it shows how big this move was. Daniel sticking it.

Bad shot but it shows how big this move on F4 was. Daniel sticking it.

Daniel two moves from the top. He did it 2nd go.

Daniel two moves from the top. He fell here first try and finished it 2nd go.

Men’s Final Results

1. Daniel Woods

2. Vasya Vorotnikov

3. Andy Lamb

4. Michael O’Rourke

5. Paul Robinson

6. Jon Cardwell

~

Podiums

Jule Wurm (1st) Alex Puccio (2nd) Megan Mascarenas (3rd)

Jule Wurm (1st) Alex Puccio (2nd) Megan Mascarenas (3rd)

Men's Podium ABS 15 Nationals 2014

Men’s Podium ABS 15 Nationals 2014. Daniel Woods (1st) Vasya Vorotnikov (2nd) Andy Lamb (3rd)

Final Results

Final Results

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Want to see for yourself?

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final Results + Overall Season Results

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Finals Replay

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Munich Final Results

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women's Podium in Munich.

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women’s Podium in Munich.

Munich Women's Final Scores

Munich Women’s Final Scores

Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!

~

Munich Men’s Final Results

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.

Rei Sugimoto

Winner Rei Sugimoto

Men's Final Scores

Men’s Final Scores

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Season Overall Podiums

Women's Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Women’s Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Men's Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

Men’s Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final 4

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Women’s Final 4

Dinara. Yes, it's blurry, but wow.

Dinara. Yes, it’s blurry, but wow.

Jump across to a jug undercling/swing catch. Big move (Petra figure 4′ed) to another volume, two volumes with jibs, high right foot on large green volume, press into corner with whole body to finish. The end especially seemed difficult and competitors tried some interesting things.

Dinara – fell, then caught dyno dramatically with one hand, got into volumes but fell.

Dinara going up to the volumes

Dinara going up to the volumes

Dinara trying to get her head in.

Dinara trying to get her head in.

Petra – did dyno, stylish figure 4, tried some real shenanagins on volumes, fell out of them. No finish.

Petra Klingler trying the arm bar

Petra Klingler trying the arm bar

Melanie – stuck dyno, had trouble moving up.

Katha – slipped off jump, did jump, got to high volumes, fell, back up, left hand on high volume, pressed into corner, sent!

Katha pressing into the corner at the top of final 4

Katha pressing into the corner at the top of final 4

Alex – fell off jump, then did it, fell from volumes b/c wrong hand up first, went again, went left first like Katha did, pressed pressed pressed. Sent! It looked very very close but it worked! Good job Alex!

Alex went right hand up but it worked out.

Alex went right hand up the first time. She looked strong but fell.

Alex using the correct method.

Alex using the correct method.

Alex mantling.

Alex mantling.

Backen-foot and lean across to the finish jib.

Backen-foot and lean across to the finish jib.

Shauna – tried to static jump, fell a couple times, stuck it, hiked the top even though she went up right to the top volume and that hosed everyone else who tried it. Very strong effort from Shauna.

Shauna made this look easy.

Shauna made this look easy.

Shauna pressing with style.

Shauna pressing with style.

Send!

Anna – falls off jump. If she sends this climb she wins the comp. Gets back up. Goes right to top volume, seems stuck, eventually gets hands right, stems out, finishes. She wins!

Anna finishing problem 4

Anna finishing problem 4

~

Men’s Final 4

Rustam going with the swing on Men's Final 4

Rustam going with the swing at the start on Men’s Final 4

Weird moves from holds on a volume out to another huge volume with a little hold on the edge and another on the tip. Power move up left to the huge bonus blob. Rock up right to arete hold. Sit on bonus, move left to press finish.

Sachi – tried some interesting things to get out, didn’t sort it out.

Sacha Amma trying Men's Final 4

Sacha Amma trying to go backwards on Men’s Final 4

Rei – wow! Another impressive effort from Rei.

Rei staring down the arete hold at the top of MF4

Rei staring down the arete hold at the mid top of MF4

Rei figured out the bottom and then hiked carefully to last move, where he hung out for a while trying to decide what to do.

Rei trying to commit to the last move.

Rei trying to commit to the last move.

He finally committed to the dynamic move, rocked left and used his right elbow to press into the wall to keep him from barn dooring out.

Rei using the elbow

Rei using the elbow

It worked, he stuck the finish!

Rei sending Men's Final 4

Rei just after sending Men’s Final 4

Mayhaylo – went out backwards at the start but made it work!

Mahaylo feet first.

Mahaylo feet first.

Mahaylo turning around.

Mahaylo turning around.

Mahaylo looking very strong.

Mahaylo looking very strong on the one arm.

Up to bonus, stood up on arete, foot up on bonus, couldn’t figure out last move, eventually fell. No send.

Rustam – fell from the start, then worked it out, stood up high at the top, crimped wall panel, left foot to final hold, leaned over, matched, done.

Rustam crimping gaston left hand on the wall panel in his chest, left foot first to the finish. He leaned over and matched it for the win.

Rustam crimping gaston left hand on the wall panel in his chest, left foot first to the finish. He leaned over and matched it for the win.

Dmitrii – fell from start repeatedly, after powering out first moves but getting stuck moving to bonus. Doesn’t finish, and it ends this comp but he’s still overall 1st place for the season.

Dmitrii struggling with the volume.

Dmitrii struggling with the volume. He basically jumped and held the swing to the little jib, and it seemed like he was just too pumped to power to the bonus so he was trying to get there via other means, but he wasn’t able to make it work.

Thomas – If he sends he wins. The crowd is chanting for him. Unfortunately he struggles on bottom, falls repeatedly, doesn’t get through it. Silver.

Rei wins!

IFSC Bouldering World Cup #8 – Munich – Finals Problems 1 & 2

August 25, 2013 1 comment
Petra Klinger of Switzerland not quite finishing WF1

Petra Klingler of Switzerland not quite finishing WF1

Women’s Final 1

This problem looked really balancy, and nearly everyone fell at least once, often many times. The top looked particularly challenging as it was necessary to press off a low foot and do some hand maneuvering, then get a high right foot and rock up onto it while pulling on the small holds and volume to the finish.

Dinara Fakhritdinova – bonus

Petra Klingler – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top

Melanie Sandoz – flash

Katha Saurwein – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top

Alex Puccio – flash to bonus, fell. didn’t finish

Shauna Coxsey – falling, bonus, not sure her highpoint

Anna Stöhr – falling, bonus…

Anna Stöhr trying to figure out the top of WF1.

Anna Stöhr trying to figure out the top of WF1. She slipped right after this.

After Anna fell off the bottom a few more times she got back up, instead of matching put right on gaston, left into the undercling she’s trying to match on in the pic above, right to volume, grabbed the top! Only the 2nd send of the boulder and it puts her in 2nd as Melanie flashed.

~

Men’s Final 1

Sachi Amma of Japan showing off the only 2 moves of MF1 that anyone did.

Sachi Amma of Japan showing off the only 2 moves of MF1 that anyone did. No one could stick the jump to the red eyebrow out right. Everything just looked too slippery.

Sachi Amma – 0

Rei Sugimoto – 0

Mykhaylo Shalagin – 0

Rustam Gelmanov – 0

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov – 0

Thomas Tauporn – 0

~

Women’s Final 2

Dinara flashing WF2

Dinara flashing WF2 with her own method.

The announcers said they thought you were supposed to go to the left side of the volume, but the girls jumped straight up one two left and then right to the high right dish. From there left hand flip to catch the swing (Dinara didn’t flip), then squeeze left on the volume/bonus, left again to undercling, high feet, stand up to finish.

Dinara – flash

Petra – falling, does sweet jump with left hand flip for the catch, finishes the problem with 2 knees and a heel hook.

Petra heel hooking to the top.

Petra heel hooking to the top.

Melanie – falls, bonus, falls, no send. Keeps falling trying to get left hand to upper left undercling for last move.

Katha – eventual send

Alex – flash

Shauna – flash

Anna – flash

~

Men’s Final 2

Blobs, arete, press into an volume, move around the volume to the finish.

Sachi – bonus

Rei – scroll down:

Rei at the start of MF2

Rei at the start of MF2

Rei Sugimoto working into the top volume.

Rei Sugimoto working into the top volume.

Rei pressing into the volume. He moved slowly and precisely so he wouldn't fall.

Rei pressing into the volume. He moved slowly and precisely so he wouldn’t fall.

Rei clinging to the volume as he reaches left for the final hold.

Rei clinging to the volume as he reaches left for the final hold.

Rei makes the first top in the men's round.

Rei makes the first top in the men’s round.

Mykhaylo – no top, bonus?

Rustam – looked good, got bonus, fell getting feet up. Falls again, calls to crowd for support, falls again, Heel blows, falls again.

Dmitrii – sends 2nd go and in 1st now.

Thomas – sends! Several goes. In 2nd now.

Rei is now in 3rd.

~

 

 

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #7 – Vail – Women’s Qualifiers

June 7, 2013 3 comments
The scene at Women's Qualifiers

The scene at Women’s Qualifiers. Far left is Women’s 1, Blue volume on the red streak is #2, Roof with white holds is #3, far right overhang with volumes is #4. #5 is at the far right side of the wall and is near vertical on volumes. See below.

Women's Quali 5

Akiyo Noguchi staring down Women’s Quali 5

~

As usual the best ranked climbers climbed first, and since most of Team USA’s girls haven’t done any World Cups most of Team USA will climb near the end of the pack. Here’s a quick rundown of the problems, I’ll post results when the round is over.

The live commentator did a little interview with some of the women after they climbed. First was the #1 ranked woman, Austrian Anna Stöhr, and she had some interesting things to say. For one, she loves being in Vail. In regards to winning all the time:

I don’t think that I’m that much stronger than the other girls, sometimes I think I just had a bit more luck they they had.    ~ Anna Stöhr

He also interviewed Alex Puccio about her qualifiers and if the altitude is affecting her at all:

I had a couple mishaps, I slipped off the top of the fourth one in the beginning. On the last one I slid off the start hold two times then I did it. It’s good to make your mistakes early on.

I used to be used to the altitude when I lived here. Every year that I haven’t been living here it gets harder and harder. I feel like I’m going to throw up after each problem and I’m not even falling up high. I can’t imagine falling at the top and trying to climb them again.  ~ Alex Puccio

And Shauna Coxsey, who was quite cheery despite a knee problem she’s been having that the announcer asked her about:

It’s just hindering me a little bit on certain moves. It’s a bit of a disadvantage but it’s more important to climb next year than this comp which is why I stopped trying on number 3. I’ll just see how it goes. Take it easy and not push myself on certain moves too hard.

On the altitude:

Altitude’s a disadvantage but it’s a disadvantage for everyone. You get so pumped and so out of breath, everyone coming back [to iso] looks like they’ve just run a marathon. ~ Shauna Coxsey

Shauna will be staying around the Colorado for the next few weeks to climb on Colorado rock, so let’s hope her knee stays strong and she gets to climb some hard boulders! After that she’s home for training, then out to Australia for more climbing, then back home for more training before the next Bouldering World Cup of the season, Munich in August.

Back to qualifiers. As we saw in the Spot last week, there are many extremely strong women here to compete. It will be exciting to see how everyone does here in Vail! Here are the first set of problems they were tested against:

~

Women’s Quali 1

Start under a small hang, move over lip to slab, two blobs, out left to blob on volume and a volume with two jibs on it. Mantle up/undercling volume, stand tall, foot on jib, stand up to finish. Don’t move too fast to top or fall off. Some interesting methods were tried on this one.

Alex Puccio on Women's 1

Alex Puccio on the first move of Women’s Q 1

Alex on move 2

Alex matching the blobs

Alex on move 3

Alex getting on the volume

Megan Mascarenas on move 6

Megan Mascarenas working out the mantle. She used strange beta but made it work.

Claire Bell using the knee

Claire Bell using the knee

Tiffany Hensley taking a seat on WQ1

Tiffany Hensley taking a seat on WQ1

Megan standing it up

Megan standing it up. Most used the edge of the volume as she is with her left hand.

Megan at the top.

Megan at the top.

Lisa Chulich couldn't quite reach, but this was good enough to get her a top. Nice job Lisa!

Lisa Chulich couldn’t quite reach, but this was good enough to get her a top. Nice job Lisa!

~

Women’s Quali 2

Start, grab blob, work left, heel, rock up right hand to volume, compress the arete on volumes.

Isabelle Faus on the start of WQ2

Isabelle Faus on the arete of WQ2

Anna Stohr bumping to the underblob on the arete of Q2

Anna Stohr bumping to the underblob on the arete of Q2

Up to a blob bonus, rock over to the headwall on a volume to a challenging jump to and a challenging match on the finish volume.

Anna Stohr moving to bonus

Anna Stohr moving to bonus

Melissa Le Neve topping 2

Melissa Le Neve topping 2. Akiyo did it with a stem out right. Shauna kept her left foot low. So did Angie.

Angie Payne about to match.

Angie Payne about to match. She did, then her feet cut and she sort of campused.

~

Women’s Quali 3

Steep and powerful. Start on pinches, one hold on flat wall, heel or toe up on start hold, committing move to first big hold in roof.

Tyler Youngwerth

Tyler Youngwerth using the heel hook.

Monika Retschy headed up the roof on WQ3

Monika Retschy headed up the roof on WQ3

Match. Thuggy looking moves through roof with clamp feet. Keep the feet on or fall off.

Melissa Le Neve on the steepest part of WQ3

Melissa Le Neve on the steepest part of WQ3. She looked really shaky on this one but managed to finish it!

Up to pinch, left to bonus hold (big matching hold just under lip)

Aya Onoe on WQ4

Aya Onoe going to bonus on WQ3

Match bonus.

Melissa matching on WQ4

Melissa matching on WQ3. Notice the block at the top left of the hold. There is one just below it as well, making this hold more challenging to grab and move off of.

Kyra Condie and the blocked bonus hold on WQ3

Kyra Condie and another view of the blocked bonus hold on WQ3

Over the lip left hand to the blue hold between the Enterprises E and N below.

Megan Mascarenas getting over the roof. Unfortunately she fell before moving on.

Megan Mascarenas getting over the roof. Unfortunately she fell before moving on.

Out right to white blob, match, up right to finish on Versa-pinch.

Melissa Le Neve at the top

Melissa Le Neve sticking the top of women’s Q3.

This last move seemed to be a bit of a surprise for most competitors who got there. It must have been farther than it looked as competitors including Shauna Coxsey and Angie Payne came slightly short of sticking it. To her surprise, Melissa Le Neve did stick it.

Melissa Le Neve glad to be on the finish hold of WQ3

Melissa Le Neve glad to be on the finish hold of WQ3

~

Women’s Quali 4

Steep and powerful up an overhanging wall and an arete. Start on two balls, feet on pinchtites, jump to a bloctite with another bloctite just over it.

Melanie Sandoz on the first move of WQ4

Melanie Sandoz on the first move of WQ4

Lisa Chulich tried using the right arete to stand tall. It worked but she then tried to do a dynamic cross to the bloctite that she couldn’t stick. It looked like a toehook or just using the regular method would have been better for her.

Lisa Chulich trying to use the arete.

Lisa Chulich trying to use the arete.

Akiyo on WQ4

Akiyo did the regular method and quickly got her feet up.

Match the bloctites with a foot or feet up, power move to a small hold up and left,

Nina Williams powering to the crimp

Nina Williams powering to the crimp

…heel on…

Francesca Metcalf on WQ4

Francesca Metcalf preparing to move up to the volume

then left around the arete to the bonus hold.

Akiyo Noguchi Women's Q4

Akiyo moving from bonus and volume up to the crimp and 2tex vortex. The vortex is pretty good if you hit it right but it’s a small hole and the inside is very good in one position and not so good in the others.

Balance on the heel and get right hand in vortex.

Angie Payne bumping.

Angie Payne bumping to the vortex.

Angie Payne balancing to bump her left hand in.

Angie Payne balancing to bump her left hand in.

The sequence Angie tried for the end was: bump left into the little blue hold below the lip, right up to higher blue hold on headwall. I imagine next would be left hand into vortex, up to finish, but she fell here and didn’t get back before time ran out.

Next

Next would be up to the blue hold in the Enterprises S.

From there it looked like you could thrutch left to the last pinch or you could maybe flip the vortex and go right as a gaston then match. Don’t remember if anyone tried the flip method, most didn’t even get near the top of this one.

Melissa Le Neve finishing left on Women's Quali 4

Melissa Le Neve finishing left hand first on Women’s Quali 4

~

Women’s Quali 5

Back to the vertical for some balance, stand-up, squeeze, and press moves on volumes. This one required the climbers to  move deliberately with good body tension. The start seemed quite challenging, the middle ok, then matching the undercling bonus was powerful and matching the finish was no picnic either. Most who got to the last hold did figure out the match, but I saw at least one climber move too fast at the top and slip trying to match the finish before they’d gotten a solid body position.

Katha Saurwein of Austria on the bottom of WQ5

Katha Saurwein of Austria on the bottom of WQ5

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk working her way up Q5

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk getting in position for the stand up on Q5

Alex Puccio making her way through the middle of Quali 5

Alex Puccio making her way through the middle and onto the bonus of Quali 5

Shauna getting in position to match the finish hold, the left volume, of Qualifier 5.

Shauna getting in position to match the finish hold, the left volume, of Qualifier 5.

Staying low like Shauna is here seemed the best way. Several competitors mantled up on the left hand and then tried to reach down and match. Mina Leslie-Wujastyk dropped back down to the position Shauna is in and matched. Melanie Sandoz (FRA) went for the match from the high position but her foot slipped as she brought her right hand across and she had to try again, fell repeatedly at the bottom and throughout the problem, and unfortunately didn’t finish. Briton Leah Crane fell in the middle but then got back up and tried a few things before eventually making the match without falling.

Leah Crane trying a method to match the top.

Leah Crane trying the mantle method.

Leah trying something else.

Leah trying something else.

Leah working it out.

Leah working it out.

Screen Shot 2013-06-07 at 11.26.46 AM

Done

~

Click Here to See Women’s Qualifier Results

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #6 – Toronto – Women’s Quali Problems

June 1, 2013 2 comments
Women's Qualifiers. 1 is on the farthest left, 5 is the farthest right. You can see the competitors waiting down the stairs on the right side of the screen.

Women’s Qualifiers, way up high. 1 is on the farthest left, 2 & 3 are on the overhanging bulge, 4 is the steep roof with the big volumes, 5 is the slight overhang farthest right. You can see some of the competitors waiting down the stairs on the left side of the screen.

There was one set of 5 boulders for qualifiers for the entire women’s field.

Part of the way through qualis the announcers said it started to get a lot hotter in the venue. That probably made what looked like a difficult set of problems feel even more difficult.

Later when they interviewed Alex Puccio she said it was really hot while climbing, there were no fans, and the volumes were really hard to hold on to because your hands got quite sweaty. She suggests fans for the boulder problems for tomorrow to help the problems stay cooler. She also said the crowd is fantastic, loud and enthusiastic, and the last Canadian World Cup was just as loud and enthused.

~

Women’s Quali 1

Women's Quali 1

Women’s Quali 1 on the left.

A short balancy problem starting on a purple volume. Step across a shallow wide corner to another purple volume, lean over or lurch to a left orange gaston and a right press on a large Teknik blob, feet over, right foot up onto another teknik blob or heelhook on the big one, higher right hand available (looked pretty bad, for balance only) stand up on the large blob to match the finish hold in the roof in an overhead press.

Akiyo finishing women's 1

Akiyo about to finish women’s 1

Most of the stronger competitors that we watched hiked this one or hesitated and then got through it. As the round progressed people began to have trouble finishing this but, appropriately, it still got done the most of the qualifiers.

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Women’s Quali 2

Women's Quali 2

Women’s Quali 2

Steep up an arete. The commentators said this one would be the hardest of the lot, but it didn’t prove to be true. Start under the left side of a roof on purple jug with feet on the sidewall, gaston right in roof, left pinch or sidepull in roof, lurch over the angle change to the bonus hold on the headwall, a slopy looking orange pinch. Lurch left around the arete to a large blue Revolution volcano.

Jule getting bonus on Quali 2

Jule getting bonus on Quali 2. Volcano is next.

Thuggy move up left to side pull around arete, up right to hold on a green triangle volume.

Akiyo Noguchi thugging her way through Quali 2

Akiyo Noguchi thugging her way through Quali 2

Up left hand first to top hold which is directly above the volume so you have to move up and around the arete to get to it.

Dianne Merrick of GB trying the heel method.

Dianne Merrick of GB trying the heel method.

Seemed like you could either heelhook lock these moves or pogo or jump through them.

Anna Stöhr doing the last move on Q2

Anna Stöhr doing the last move on Q2 with the heel method.

Most of the top competitors did this easily, but Jule Wurm had trouble working with the bonus hold and she didn’t end up finishing.

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Women’s Quali 3

Anna Stöhr on Women's Quali 3

Anna Stöhr on Women’s Quali 3

Start on the other side of the roof from Quali 2, looked jumpy and powerful. Holds on a volume, a few in the roof…

Shauna Coxsey in the roof

Shauna Coxsey in the roof

…turn around, bicycle feet, power move to a jug on the bottom of another volume…

Jule jumping for the volume

Jule jumping for the volume jug

…cross to a jug undercling also on the volume, jump to a sloper on the headwall. This move looked cruxy.

Alex Puccio rocking up the headwall.

Alex Puccio rocking up the headwall.

Feet on the volume jugs, balance up through two smaller holds to the finish.

Akiyo at the top.

Akiyo at the top.

Looked like a leg press for the last move and balance to match it.

This problem looked similar to #2 in terms of how competitors were doing on it. All the strongest hiked it, except Jule, who didn’t finish it.

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Women’s Quali 4

Anna Stöhr on Q4

Anna Stöhr on Q4

Big purple volumes on a roof. Start, move up to a blue diamond sloper pinch and left to another volume. Match other volume, shift up on it until you get bonus, a jib screwed to the top corner of the volume.

Akiyo making it work.

Akiyo making it work.

Akiyo trying a slightly different way.

Akiyo trying a slightly different way.

Up to a hold on another little triangle volume.

Akiyo Noguchi figuring out Q4

Akiyo Noguchi crushing Q4

Jib on a circle volume.

Akiyo Noguchi

Akiyo Noguchi

Thug jump to finish.

Akiyo sticking the last move of Q4

Akiyo sticking the last move of Q4

This one proved to be the most difficult of the lot. Anna Stöhr came out and didn’t even make bonus despite lots of effort. Akiyo Noguchi came out next and hiked it. She pressed thorough the bottom easily by matching the blue diamond, dropping down to the 2nd big volume, matching, flipping a hand to a reverse hamhock, changed to a shuffle up the volume, reached over to the bonus, then up to the higher volumes. It didn’t even look like she actually grabbed the last hold, but she stuck it somehow, swung out on it casually, came back in, matched, done. Puccio didn’t get bonus, unless they counted her touching it with her foot. She put in a lot of good efforts but couldn’t solve the bottom. Jule Wurm made bonus, then didn’t get the next hold. Shauna Coxsey didn’t get anywhere. Momoka Oda looked good to bonus, didn’t finish. Melissa Le Neve also managed this one. Katha got bonus. Besides them I didn’t see anyone else really get anywhere on it.

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Women’s Quali 5

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Women's Q4

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Women’s Q4

Farthest right on the wall. Large green volume with holds on it to start. Up to two large orange slopers that I can’t identify for make.

Anna Stöhr Q5

Anna Stöhr on the Q5 orange slopers.

The slopers.

The slopers. Dual-tex. Maybe Element?

Cross to the bonus hold – a sloper on a large purple volume. Match, up to another sloper on a purple triangle volume. Step up and lurch or power to lip.

Anna setting up for the move to the lip.

Anna setting up for the move to the lip.

Shift along lip to finish spot. Match.

Anna fell from the top, then finished. Alex Puccio hiked this, doing the top really easily by shifting along the lip to the finish instead of just jumping for the finish spot.

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Women’s Quali Results

Not sure where Akiyo fell, but she only fell once and she finished everything for first place with 5 tops 6 tries, 5 tops 5 tries.

Next up was Melissa Le Neve with 5 tops 9 tries, 5 bonus 8 tries.

Shauna and Puccio tied for 3rd with 4 flashes each. Neither made any headway on problem 4 so no score for that one.

Anna Stöhr’s fall at the top of problem 5 puts her in 5th here with 4 tops, 5 tries.

Women's Quali Results Toronto

Women’s Top Quali Results Toronto

Interesting about this round – the 12th place to 20th place competitors made semifinals with only a single top in qualis. Not sure if this means qualis were too hard, or the field just wasn’t deep enough, as the top competitors were all fairly close together (minus problem 4).

Womens 10 - 18

More female qualifiers to make it through. Notice that a single flash was good enough for 12th place.

The heat was probably big factor as there looked to be a lot of sloper and volume climbing here and when it is hot those types of holds often feel impossible.

19 & 20 make it through to qualifiers. The rest are out.

19 & 20 make it through to qualifiers. The rest are out.

Nice job to Sierra and Megan for squeaking through in 19th and 20th places!

Full Women’s Quali Results Toronto

Re-watch the live feed

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Men’s qualis start at 4pm Toronto time.

 

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Women’s Qualifiers

May 17, 2013 1 comment

Innsbruck World Cup 2013 Women's Qualifiers

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Women’s Qualifiers

Group A

These problems appeared to be Balance, Power, Power, Power.

Only Alex and Anna sent everything in Group A, and they are tied for 1st with 8 total attempts each. Alex took 5 tries on quali 1 (a mantle to stand-up on a slab) and then flashed the rest. Anna flashed 1 & 2, then took 3 tries each to send 3 and 4. Momoko Oda is just behind them with 3 flashes and a flash to bonus on problem 2, but she didn’t finish problem 2.

Alex trying to balance mantle on B1

Alex trying to balance mantle on A1. She fell off the stand-up to the next hold a few times, then stuck it and finished. To the right you can see A2, A3, and the top of A4.

And Alex on A4.

A1, A2, and A3 on the left, A2, A3, and Alex on A4 on the right.

A better shot of the A problems. From right, A4, A3, A2.

A better shot of the A problems. From right, A4, A3, A2.

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Group B

Shauna on B2

Shauna on the slippery B2. B1 to her right, B3 and B4 to her left.

For Group B, Akiyo Noguchi looked casual, flashing the first 3 before taking 3 tries to send problem 4. Her score was the best of the round–4 tops in 6 goes, and she was one of only 3 Group B competitors to send all their qualis.

Just behind her was Shauna Coxsey, who flashed 1, 3, & 4, but epiced on 2 for a minute with 3 goes to bonus and 5 goes to top. She was the only person to flash Quali B4. Her score then is 4/8 just like Anna and Alex in Group A.

Third in Group B is Swiss climber Petra Klingler, who has been having an interesting season. She’s missed semis twice but made in in 1st place in Kitzbuhel, only to fall to 14th in semis and not make finals. In this quali she flashed the first 3, then took 6 tries to send problem 4, for a score of 4/9. Hopefully she has a successful semifinal as well.

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Awesome awesomeness

Screen Shot 2013-05-17 at 12.09.33 PM

I’d like to give some props to my friend Thomasina Pidgeon. Thomo is a Canadian climber, first famous from her ascent of the V10 Zero-Zero in Squamish in the early 2000s after only a couple of years of climbing, continually famous as the strongest female boulderer in Canada, who has sent many problems up to V12 outdoors and made many FFAs, and who is also the mother of a darling 6-year-old named Cedar. Two years ago around this time Thomo was sitting on my couch and we were watching the live feed of a bouldering World Cup.

“I want to do that.” She said.

“You should.” I said.

But she had some concerns. She isn’t a very dynamic climber. She’s not much of a plastic climber. She’s 10-20 years older than most of the competitors. She has a 6 year old daughter. Traveling to these comps is expensive, and there is no federation support. She has no trainer or physio. She doesn’t have much comp experience. Etc…etc… She also has a reputation to uphold, especially in Canada, and as a somewhat mysterious strong female boulderer, it’s risky to go out on a world stage and possibly prove that notion wrong. However, other older female competitors, some with children, helped Thomo see that it would be possible. She understood that competing is a different animal than outdoor climbing, and that if she went out and tried hard and failed, that wouldn’t change her accomplishments or abilities as a climber. If anything, she figured, she would grow from the experience.

Despite the difficulties and the risks, she decided to go for it–to push herself in a new way, to try competing, on ropes and in bouldering–and see what happened. In 2012 she earned a spot on the National team and competed in the Vail World Cup, where she got 31st out of 41 women. Then she and Cedar got plane tickets to Europe, and off they went.

She’s not much of a rope climber, though she’s trying to learn that also. In July 2012 she competed in the Lead World Cup in Chamonix. She had a bit of a tweaked finger, and when things started to go south she grabbed a draw rather than hurt herself and took 55th. In Briancon she took 47th. In Imst in August she took 39th, and at the next event, a Bouldering World Cup in Munich, she took 35th. 47th in bouldering at the World Championships in Paris was her last event for the 2012 season. In 2013 she’s done as many Bouldering World Cups as she can get to, with 40th in Millau, 51st in Kitzbuhel, 35th in Log Dragomer, and now 53rd in Innsbruck. She’s learning from each experience, and for all of us armchair World Cup viewers, her blog is well worth reading:

thomasina pidgeon

I’d like to say great job to Thomo for being so brave. The fact that she’s competing is super inspiring, and I hope she continues to compete, learn, and enjoy herself, and hopefully she’ll find her way into semifinals one of these days!

Thomasina Pidgeon on B1

Thomo on B1

Thomasina on B3

Two angles of Thomasina on B3, Afra Honig throwing double toes on B4.

Women's B4

The bottom of Women’s B4

Another shot of B4 with the bottom of A4 on the left as well.

Another shot of B4 (right) with the bottom of A4 on the left as well.

Shauna on B2

Two angles of Shauna on B4. Started low and left, up left hand red, jump to teardrop volume, match and jump right to orange volume, control swing, move up on blue volume, reach out to yellow, undercling yellow, to top.

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Women’s Quali Results

20 women are going to semis.

IFSC Bouldering World Cup Innsbruck Women's Quali ResultsScreen Shot 2013-05-17 at 11.24.21 AM

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Full Women’s Quali Results

provisional Result: Qualification (A) W O M E N bouldering

provisional Result: Qualification (B) W O M E N bouldering

Combined

General result W O M E N bouldering

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Re-watch the Live Feed

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Qualifiers Live Feeds

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IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #4 – Log Dragomer, Slovenia – Women’s Qualifiers Results

May 11, 2013 1 comment

Screen Shot 2013-05-11 at 11.38.59 AM

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Women’s Qualifiers

Women's Qualis, from right, problems 1 and 2 for both groups.

Women’s Qualis, from right, problems 1 and 2 for both groups.

Women’s Quali 1

The first problem for each quali group (the rightmost two problems in the picture above) were identical or nearly identical. You can see Melissa Le Neve of group B in the middle of one of them.

Women’s Quali 2

The second problems were quite different. On the far left is Alex Puccio on Group B Problem 2. The problem was balancy and technical but it got done and Alex was one of the girls who sent it.

In the middle of the photo above is Shauna Coxsey on Group A Problem 2. This problem looked very balancy as well and the bottom was ok but the last two moves were causing some major issues. Shauna fell at the very top, Anna Stöhr just a tad lower. I didn’t watch all of qualis but I didn’t see anyone send it, and only one climber in Group B had 5 tops, so I’m guessing she was the only person to finish this one. That climber was Olga Iakovlena of Russia, and I don’t know anything about her but so far this season she took 7th last event in Kitzbühel, 16th in Millau, and 14th in Chongqing. She got 2nd at the 2012 World Championships in Paris, so clearly she is a competitor to keep an eye on.

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Women's 3

Women’s 3

Women’s Quali 3

These looked a bit easier, and were quickly dispatched by some of the strongest girls. Anna Stöhr is on the left on A3, Akiyo Noguchi on the right on B3. Both sent.

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Screen Shot 2013-05-11 at 11.40.42 AM

Alex Puccio and Shauna Coxsey on Women’s 4

Women’s Quali 4

Alex is on B4, Shauna is on A4. On B4, which looked powerful, Alex hiked to this point, then fell from the last move. She then fell from the last move again, then off the bottom a couple of times in the last seconds. She looked to be having friction issues. She didn’t finish this one, but she did the other 4 and goes into Semis tied for 6th. Shauna sent.

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Women's Quali 5

Women’s Quali 5

Women’s Quali 5

Again, fairly different. Both got done.

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Women’s Quali Results

Top 20 go to semifinals. I’m posting them all though to save you the trouble of the IFSC’s website cause I can’t find a permalink.

Screen Shot 2013-05-11 at 11.54.06 AMScreen Shot 2013-05-11 at 11.54.20 AMScreen Shot 2013-05-11 at 11.54.37 AM

Some strong climbers who have been doing well this season are out including Swiss climber Petra Klingler, who qualified first in Kitzbuhel.

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Watch the Qualifiers replay here:

[LIVE] IFSC Climbing World Cup Log Dragomer 2013 – Bouldering – Qualifications Women – YouTube

 

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Results

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Overall the women’s problems looked like they may have been a touch easy, as they saw many sends and attempts and count backs separated the field, but they were crowd pleasing and probably necessary as the men’s looked a bit too hard–there were only 4 tops total in the whole final. With the drama about Jakob’s ascent of problem 3, he may not get scored for that top, so really there may technically be only 3 tops in the men’s. We’ll see.

For the women Akiyo and Anna flashed everything and were separated by countbacks. Alex Puccio took 6 goes to send the 4 finals for 3rd.

Women's Podium. Anna is psyched!

Women’s Podium. Anna is psyched!

Women's Final Results

Women’s Final Results

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Men’s Final Results

Jakob got back on Final 3 and he sent. With 2 tops he wins the comp. Guillaume Glairon Mondet had 1 top, so did Dmitrii Sharafutdinov.

Men's Podium

Men’s Podium

Men's Final Results after the reclimb

Men’s Final Results after the reclimb

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New Live Scoreboard

Worth noting is that there appears to be a new style of live scoreboard at this event. The new style shows in an easy-to-visualize way how far the climbers have progressed and on which problems. Here’s what it looks like:

Sorry it's blurry. The live at-event scoreboard.

Sorry it’s blurry. The live at-event scoreboard. Green lines mean they got the bonus. Full blocks represent sends. Tries are off to the right.

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Sometime soon I’ll probably illustrate the earlier problem-by-problem posts more fully with screen shots and such, or you can just watch the live feed replays via ifsc-climbing.org.

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final 4 + Jakob on Final 3 Again

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Final Problem 4

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Women’s Final 4

First go Alex fell on the 3rd or 4th move. She got back on and climbed the boulder to the top, though it definitely looked hard and from the viewer’s perspective there was a question as to whether or not she’d fall off on nearly every move. She didn’t. Nice Alex!

Mina Markovic got up to the big orange death star / donut, squeezed her way up the arete, did some kind of kneebar to move to the top. I guess it was a flash? Nice Mina!

Katha did well on the start, then seemed to struggle moving out to the donut. She hesitated, then just skipped it, went to bonus, right toe in donut, basically just dynoed to the top. Didn’t look that hard for her. Done.

Akiyo doesn’t seem to be having as easy a time with this as she did with the last. She seems to struggle but keeps going slowly and finishes the boulder.

Anna went backwards to the first hold but matched it somehow and kept going up. She also ignored the donut for her hands, only putting a heel in it, and easily finishing for the flash and the win.

Shauna is last out. She looks strong, climbs the bottom well, probably the best anyone has done it. Up to bonus with an inside flag. Foot in the donut, up to the last holds, feet cut and she swung them around for a bit long, finally pasted right foot on, jumped, barely stuck the top but did. Flash.

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Men’s Final 4

Jernej Kruder stuck the double dyno but fell after trying to get out right to the bonus hold. Next go he got bonus via 360 backwards spin, got over on it, moved his feet over left, heel hooked, spun back around, heel hooked other foot, stuck the next hold, then fell trying to stick the big red sloper up and left. Fell there again. Done. Final score, ot, 3b.

Guillaume stuck the double dyno. Moved out right to bonus. Sitting on left heel moves up right to blue mouth sloper, sits on heel more, up left to red sloper, sticks it, jump-crosses to finish hold but falls. Again, but this time stems out to other wall, matches on red sloper, falls. Again. Can’t quite stick the last hold. Done.

Cedric climbed through the bottom easily as Guillaume had, fell where Guillaume did moving to the finish several times. Made the match on the red sloper nicely with the foot out left, but fell jumping to the last hold. No send. Gets back on. Too tired. Done.

Jakob came out and fell from the double dyno. If he finishes the problem he will win the comp. Next go he got through bonus, did a sweet vertical toe-cam, fell. Went back up, STUCK LAST MOVE! Two tops. Wins!

Thomas can’t win, but anyone who does this problem will podium, so he still has a chance at silver or bronze. We didn’t get to see all his tries as Anna was busy winning, but when they go back to him you can see him having had the bonus and falling. Didn’t finish.

Last out, Dmitrii, who, if he flashes, could actually win the comp due to the:

Surprise Drama

The announcer just came on saying that Jakob’s start position for problem 3 has been deemed illegal so that top was taken away from him. They’re going to make him try to re-climb problem 3 and if he doesn’t do it he may not win. The Austrian coach is NOT HAPPY.

So Dmitrii has his turn. Not sure if he knows about the situation with the scores and Jakob. He flashes to the last move and falls. Dmitrii goes back up, is climbing the bottom easily. Matching the red sloper easily. Jumps to the end and finishes. He is in 3rd at the least. Podium!

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Jakob last go on Final Problem 3

So Jakob has to climb again. This problem looks super hard and it is disappointing for everyone I expect that he has to climb it again, but he does, so everyone is waiting around for that to happen. It goes, he sends! He wins!!!

Jakob after climbing Problem 3 for his second time.

Jakob after climbing Problem 3 for his second time.

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