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2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup #2 – Baku

May 4, 2014 3 comments

The 2nd stop of the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup was in Baku, Azerbaijan.

Rewatch the Final:

Finals Rundown

~

Women’s 1

Mina at the top of WF1

Mina at the top of WF1

Move right to that yellow jib on the bottom of the bottom visible triangle in the pic above, drop knee, cross left to top of two slopers, match right in on bottom sloper, high left foot, right hand up to bonus, high left heel, cross to volume edge, match, pop to last hold.

Mina Markovic came out first and climbed beautifully to the bonus, then fell trying to cross to the volume edge above her on her way to the final hold. Next go she got a higher, more secure heel, got the volume edge, and still struggled a bit before finally just jumping to the end.

Mina trying to figure out the end.

Mina trying to figure out the end.

Mina in position for the jump. She underclung the volume to get her left heel out so she could jump.

Mina in position for the jump. She underclung the volume to get her left heel out so she could jump.

Jump!

Jump!

This last two moves seemed to be the biggest difference in the problem, with taller girls jumping immediately and the shortest competitors (Mina and Jule) both falling. The hold seemed decent once they jumped to it.

Jule fell first go, then second go jumping to the final hold when she seemed to miss it. Meanwhile on the Men’s problem Killian flashed, and someone reset the clock, so after Jule’s second fall she had to sit around for several minutes while they figured out what was going on. As soon as she could climb again she hiked the problem and the last move looked a little desperate but she caught it.

Shauna rocking the dropknee 2nd move.

Shauna rocking the dropknee 2nd move.

In comparison, Akiyo just pulled up and moved to the last move slowly without her feet cutting til she had it. Anna and Shauna both quickly thugged through the problem.

Alex got bonus and finished the problem 2nd try.

Alex staring down the end.

Alex staring down the end.

~

 Men’s Final 1

Kokoro in the middle.

Kokoro in the middle.

Rock left and double dyno to two holds, the higher of which was the bonus. Left hand out, high right foot, right hand up to volume, perch and stab for final pocket.

Again, seemed like the shorter guys suffered a bit more. The first move was sort of a one-two dyno to two holds on the arete. First out, Kokoro Fujii took eight tries to do the first move, but once he did it he finished the problem just after time ran out.

Kokoro at the top.

Kokoro at the top.

French climber Jeremy Bonder took four goes. Jan Hojer hiked it, skipping a hold. Kilian fell once, then hiked it. Both the Russians went static right hand cross first, then crossed up to the bonus and matched it before continuing. Both flashed.

Dmitrii going right hand first.

Dmitrii going right hand first.

Rustam matching the jib.

Rustam matching the jib.

Rustam grabbing the volume.

Rustam grabbing the volume.

~

Women’s Final 2

Shauna matching the triangle.

Shauna matching the triangle.

Big volumes. High start, jump feet up to high left foot, rock left, match, up left again to bonus, cross to high triangle, match to get left hand on the part with the thumb catch, right thrutch to the finish off. Last move off a right foot or keeping feet out left and swing-jumping, which is what most people did for success.

Mina fell at the top and didn’t finish.

Anna flashed.

Shauna flashed with what looked like a knee scum and then a beautiful backen-heel at the top. When she got down she pointed out a loose hold to the judges.

Shauna backen-heeling to the finish.

Shauna backen-heeling to the finish.

Akiyo looked extremely uncomfortable at the top and fell off the last move after looking like she couldn’t quite get up over the right foot. Fell again somewhere or before that. Next try she moved faster at the top and grabbed the top hold to finish.

Akiyo setting up for the last move.

Akiyo setting up for the last move.

Jule flashed.

Alex hiked her way through the bottom, then moved too quickly to the last hold and just missed it. Fell there again. Fell in middle. Bummed.

Alex in the middle.

Alex in the middle.

Alex moving to the triangle.

Alex moving to the triangle. She matched it and fell moving up right to the last hold.

~

Men’s Final 2

Jeremy working through the middle.

Jeremy working through the middle.

Big circle volumes, awkward looking leftward moves with a huge left foot triangle and a slippery looking mantle at the top. Start with a hand and nearby heel up right, lower left hand and low left foot. Cross right to hold on volume. Left to the side of the volume and/or again to the left wall, swing left, move up left with big triangle feet, get highest volume, mantle to stand on it, lean over in terror to the finish.

Kokoro flashed to bonus, then fell from mantle and didn’t finish.

Jan flashed.

Jeremy got up past bonus first go, then fell trying to get up on the 2nd to highest volume. Next go matched it and fell trying to get on the highest volume for the mantle. He sat on the right foot and thrutched for it and got a good handful, but then didn’t stick and slowly slid off.

Jeremy rocking up to the bonus.

Jeremy rocking up to the bonus, trying not to slide off.

Dmitrii flashed.

Dmitrii at the top

Dmitrii at the top. His method was scary but it worked. He mantled on top of the ball and then leaned.

Kilian fell first go moving up to the highest volume (the bonus hold) when his heel slipped. Next go he used his toe and a knee scum, pulled against the no friction to get up, scored for bonus, then instead of mantling just tried to lean right to grab the finish as Jan did. He couldn’t quite reach and fell off again. Next go he did the same sequence, stood somehow a bit taller, touched the hold, threw a high left foot, crossed over and touched the finish hold with his other hand to score his top. Crazy.

Kilian in the middle.

Kilian in the middle.

Kilian topping.

Kilian topping.

Rustam fell first go on the same moves up to the highest circle volume that were giving everyone else trouble. 2nd go was the same thing. That hold looks super slippery and, as the announcers said, the shorter climbers had a real problem with those moves. Rustam fell again (I think). And again. Couldn’t get onto the volume. It looked like the bad but high right foot was the beta for establishing on that volume.

~

Women’s Final 3

Anna matching the sloper with the thumb undercling.

Anna matching the sloper with the thumb undercling. She’s riding a good right heel here.

Big volume, swing left to crimp on volume, heel, under-thumb jib on a 2nd volume, match it (where Anna is above), tiny painful looking crimps, can flip thumb to undercling, and a high foot rock up and left,  balance to match the bad finish jib.

First go Mina, probably one of the best crimpers on the planet, got to the top but couldn’t manage to do the last move off two holds that the announcer described as nothing. Next go she moved left and got her foot up before standing to those holds, then rocked left to the finish.

Mina pinching the thumb.

Mina pinching the thumb and staring down the bonus.

Mina rocking onto her foot.

Mina rocking onto her foot.

Mina on the bad holds "crimping on the Top 30 logo" as the announcers said.

Mina on the bad holds “crimping on the Top 30 logo” as the announcers said.

Anna flashed.

Anna standing up nicely.

Anna standing up nicely.

Shauna flashed.

Akiyo flashed.

Akiyo standing it up

Akiyo standing it up

Jule flashed. The wind was blowing her ponytail straight out right the whole time. must have been strange to compete like that.

Alex trying to campus to the feet. She did, and tried all 3, but none were good enough.

Alex trying to campus to the feet. She did, and tried all 3, but none were good enough.

Alex did the first couple of moves, then fell moving left. Fell on 2nd move. 3rd go hit 2nd hold, swung left heel up to get higher volume and match it, then fell trying to hit bonus. It looked like she couldn’t sit on the left heel. Next go went with right foot again like everyone else, shifted over to left toe, foot slipped as she hit the bonus and off. Didn’t score for it. Announcer said she’s trying to grab the bonus, when really it is is super slick and should just be touched as you sit on your foot before moving out left. Next go she tried to skip the high volume by campusing to the feet. She got to all of them but none was good enough and she dropped. Last go she got up high on the volume, realized that wasn’t going to work, tried to bump back down and fell. No bonus.

~

Men’s Final 3

Jeremy trying to get set for the last move.

Jeremy trying to get set for the last move.

Jumpy first move (at least for shorter competitors) to two flat triangles put together to make sort of a space ship looking thing. Left side is better. Match and float feet right to clamp volume. Shuffle hands right. Stand into undercling triangle volume, feet up on space ship, balancy in control reach to top, which is a bad jib on a volume on top of the wall–kinda cool.

Kokoro kept jumping to the middle and had trouble sticking it. No bonus. It looked like he might have been able to jump to the left side like Jeremy did and it would have been easier to stick.

Jan staticing the first move.

Jan staticing the first move.

Jan nearly staticed but couldn’t quite reach. Did a tiny jump to stick the space ship, kept getting thwarted on the next move. Next goes he basically staticed the first move, then lifted off and moved feet right to clamp feet on a volume and match the space ship. From there he looked very scrunched and fell several times, sort of trying to mantle but unable to move up from there. He did get the bonus point for grabbing the undercling triangle on his first go.

Jan matching feet with a bicycle.

Jan matching feet with a bicycle.

Jeremy fell, fell, stuck but fell rocking his feet over. Stuck, matched, feet over, after some finagling managed to stand into the bonus hold (triangle volume undercling on a triangle volume) tried to stand up to the last move to the top but shot straight out backwards instead.

Jeremy pressing into the undercling.

Jeremy pressing into the undercling.

Did beginning again, fell on undercling. Last go managed to get a knee jammed in, had a good guppy right hand on the top volume and underling right, twisted towards the top several times trying to generate but it the end it was too awkward and he fell. If he had finished this still would have been in 5th.

Dmitrii flashed the problem easily.

Dmitrii making the match at the top of 4.

Dmitrii making the match at the top of 4.

Kilian fell on the first move. He fell again after matching the space ship. Seems like hitting it in the middle is bad because you swing off. Establishing on the left, then shifting right, seems to be working better. Also, right and middle of the space ship are in the sun. Fell again. Fell again. No bonus.

Rustam hiked the problem on his first try.

Rustam matching the top of 4.

Rustam matching the top of 4. Under toe for security so he doesn’t swing out as he matches.

~

Women’s 4

Mina at the start.

Mina at the start.

Volume blocked by another volume for the start, move right to big teardrop volume, foot jam, delicate match on top of it (apparently very slippery), rock up left to two jibs on a volume, one is bonus. Rock left on bad foot to gaston, press into it and match, up right cross to another volume at the top. The start feet are both out right so the sequence was put left foot on, right foot on (now you are established off the ground) then flag left foot out left to do the move. This caused some problems, as you will see below.

Mina pressing into the gaston.

Mina pressing into the gaston. She fell here her first try.

Mina’s 2nd go she got into the gaston and pressed to match it but couldn’t get to the last hold. She wanted to go left but knew she couldn’t reach. Finally she moved up right hand and got it, but was stuck under the volume and fell trying to get a foot up so she could match.

Anna went left to the last hold (like Mina kept trying to do but couldn’t reach) and flashed easily.

Shauna has to flash. She gets on, does 1st move, matches bonus, drops. What? The judge called her off saying she didn’t start with her feet properly. She gets back on, does the proper foot touch, and finishes the boulder left hand first. Does it count as a flash? If so, the announcer says, she wins. UPDATE: Announcer says she was called down for dabbing (touching the mat with her foot as she pulled off on her 1st attempt) so it counts as a try and puts her in 2nd. That is crushing for Shauna. This would have been her first gold. Announcer says she did contest it when she got pulled off, said she didn’t dab, so we’ll see what happens if they do a video check or something. UPDATE 2: In the only angle for the live feed they replayed Shauna’s start and though you can’t see her foot she does seem to dab and pull back up. It also looked like someone (not the judges) called for the judges to call her off. The whole thing is less than ideal. UPDATE 3: A kind commenter (see below) has said that most likely an IFSC Judge was helping the problem judges as they were local and inexperienced. Makes sense, and thanks to him for the clarification. Also, it’s important to note here that there was a lot of complaining about the live feed in the live comment box and on Facebook, but those of us who watch these should be grateful there was any video at all as it seems the conditions were challenging on many fronts. The weather alone looked like it was exhausting. Thanks to the IFSC, Top 30, and everyone else for making the feed happen.

Akiyo flashes pretty easily. Left hand static to finish like Anna and Shauna.

Akiyo staticing the last move.

Akiyo staticing the last move.

Jule gets called off her first go same as Shauna. Next go she gets to the top. The last move looks quite reachy for her but she gets it 1st go with her right hand like Mina, but instead of falling works her right hand up til she can let go with her feet and left hand and hang match. She did this by pushing up against the right foot and riding the left hand undercling until her right hand was draped over the top, more positive angle on the volume.

Jule at the top.

Jule at the top. Her right hand is high enough she can let go with her left.

Alex unfortunately is in last already, which much be terrible for her as she’s been in first for the whole comp so far, flashing all the qualis and winning semis as well. She looks done already here and falls on the first move of the problem. Next go she gets to bonus and then falls reaching for the gaston. Next go she does 1st move and falls matching the volume. Next go she’s back up to bonus, chalks on the volume, gets up to last move as time runs out, falls jumping right to last hold. Ends up in 6th. For some reason the IFSC site (and the result below) hasn’t yet given her credit for the 4th problem bonus, but she definitely grabbed it so I’m not sure what’s up with that.

Alex on bonus setting up for the rock left.

Alex camping out on bonus and setting up for the rock left. She got the gaston, pressed into it, and fell off the last move.

~

Men’s 4

Kilian trying to hold the spin out on MF4.

Kilian trying to hold the spin out on MF4.

Hard pull on to establish on a volume, stand up into a corner roof, lean way out to a bonus, cross to a volume with a thumb catch, two triangle volumes, bad volume final hold so you have to keep your feet on and stay in.

Kokoro didn’t get scored for bonus (or it wasn’t yet updated) but he seems to have grabbed it.

So close! May not have held it long enough to be scored for it.

So close! Kokoro must not have held the bonus long enough to be scored for it.

Jan got up nicely through the bonus on his 2nd try, got out around the corner, then slipped grabbing the next volume. He rested a long time, then got up into the roof and slipped just as the timer ran out. Bummer.

Pressing into the roof.

Pressing into the roof.

Ugh.

Ugh.

Jan getting bonus.

Jan getting bonus.

Jan coming around the corner off the bonus.

Jan coming around the corner off the bonus.

Jan trying a heel for the next move.

Jan trying a heel for the next move. He went up right but fell off.

Jeremy is pressing up into the corner by rocking over the left foot and pressing right hand up (instead of matching like Jan did).

Jeremy going right only into the roof.

Jeremy going right only into the roof.

Like Shauna on the women’s problem, Jeremy also seems to be having some issue with the judges, maybe a loose hold that the setter is reinforcing with another screw. Jeremy gets a little more rest out of it. Now Jeremy is back on but he can’t seem to hold the 2nd hold. He’s it it several times right hand as a gaston and fell. Jan hit it left and matched, which looked better. He finally gets it, then falls rocking on left foot. The buzzer buzzed but who knows how much time he has left–the technical threw the clock off again, at least on the live feed. Back on, does the 2nd move better, rocks over the foot, stands into the corner right hand again, may have finally hit time out, falls out of the corner right after. No bonus.

Dmitrii climbs through the bottom crossing left to the 2nd hold and matching like Jan, gets bonus, comes out around corner, campuses left to triangles (instead of right like Jan tried) brings his right hand up to match in compression but falls off instead. Next go campuses up left again, slows down to control it which he does, but falls trying to stick the right hand when he grabs the other triangle. Next go falls in the roof, looks like he says it’s tweaky on his arm and he’s done.

Dmitrii held this swing but couldn't get right hand up.

Dmitrii held this swing but couldn’t get right hand up.

Kilian got through the bottom, then, like Dmitrii, struggled to hold the left triangle and then, unlike Dmitrii, fell before even trying to move his right hand. It doesn’t make a difference though, both got bonus first go. Next go falls in the same place but a little faster. Last go as time runs out he’s back on, the rock over and press into the corner looks uncomfortable, he falls out of the roof.

Rustam getting bonus on MF4

Rustam getting bonus on MF4

If Rustam flashes he will get gold. He falls off trying to rock up under the roof. Next go gets bonus, falls. Ends up in 3rd.

No one sends the boulder.

~

Final Results

Men

Men's Podium: Dmitrii Sharfutdinov 1st, Jan Hojer 2nd, Rustam Gelmanov 3rd

Men’s Podium: Dmitrii Sharfutdinov 1st, Jan Hojer 2nd, Rustam Gelmanov 3rd

Men's Final Results Baku World Cup 2014

Full Men’s Results

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Women

Women's Podium: Anna Stöhr (1st) Akiyo Noguchi (2nd) Shauna Coxsey (3rd)

Women’s Podium: Anna Stöhr 1st, Akiyo Noguchi 2nd, Shauna Coxsey 3rd

Women's Final Results Bouldering World Cup Baku 2014

Full Women’s Results

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In the post-comp interviews both Anna and Shauna are quite gracious about the result. Anna says it isn’t ideal as they’d prefer to battle it out but some times you get lucky and that day she got lucky. Shauna says she did her best and she feels good about her performance.

~

Next comp is in Grindelwald, Switzerland, next weekend May 10th and 11th.

2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup Stop 1 – Chongqing, China – Final Results

May 1, 2014 1 comment

Unfortunately the bouldering World Cup qualifiers are not being shown live this year, and at the tour’s first stop in China none of the event was streamed. There is now a replay of the finals though:

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Finalists

In climbing order.

Men

6. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

5. Vadim Timonov (RUS)

4. Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FRA)

3. James Kassay (AUS)

2. Jan Hojer (GER)

1. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS)

Women

6. Marine Thévenet (FRA)

5. Shauna Cosxey (GBR)

4. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

3. Juliane Wurm (GER)

2. Alex Puccio (USA)

1. Anna Stöhr (AUT)

~

Men’s Final 1

Jan Hojer Men's Final 1 China World Cup 2014

Jan Hojer sticking the cruxy first move on MF1.

This problem started with a one-two-three dyno that crushed souls and took Jan 800 (ok, really 14) tries to stick. Once he stuck it he went to the top. The only other male to finish the problem was Dmitrii Sharafutdinov, who did it his 3rd try.

Jan at the top.

Jan at the top.

~

Women’s Final 1

The route setters indulged themselves with the right side of the wall and the volume array made up Women’s Final 1 and Men’s Final 3.

Shauna Coxsey near the top on her flash.

Shauna Coxsey near the top on her flash.

Shauna, Jule, and Akiyo came out and more or less hiked this thing. Puccio, Anna Stohr, and French climber Marine Thévenet got bonus but couldn’t get around the top. In the picture the last hold is at the top left corner of that top triangle, and apparently it was a bit hard to hold on to and work around.

~

Men’s Final 2

Leftward trending triangle volumes. Yellow. This was the easiest of the men’s finals, and seemed relatively straight forward sequentially. It got 2 flashes (Dmitrii and James), 2 2nd-go sends (Jan and Jorg), and one 3rd go send (Guillaume). Vadim didn’t get bonus.

Jorg out for a walk on Men's 2.

Jorg out for a walk on Men’s 2.

~

Women’s Final 2

Like the men’s cruxy first move on the first final, the women’s second final had this crazy cross-jump thing at the bottom that stood in everyone’s way. Once they stuck it, they sent.

Marine sizing up the jump.

Marine sizing up the jump. She didn’t end up sticking it.

Alex trying to stick the cross-jump.

Alex trying to stick the cross-jump. She didn’t finish this one.

Jule at the top of Women's 2.

Jule at the top of Women’s 2. She did it 4th try.

Shauna did this 5th go, Akiyo 10th go, and Anna 9th go.

~

Men’s Final 3

Another cruxy party trick problem with few sends.

The counterpart to Women's 1. Dance left, jump with a leg kick to catch the left-facing volume GG is staring at here.

The counterpart to Women’s 1. Dance left, jump with a leg kick to catch the left-facing volume GG is staring at here.

Jan did it 8th go, Jorg did it 7th go, no one else even got bonus.

~

Women’s Final 3

I don’t have a good shot of this one and it was the easiest women’s final and wasn’t very interesting. Pink holds that looked decent up some triangles. Everyone did it, and everyone flashed it except Marine who did it 2nd try.

Akiyo Women's 3 Final

Akiyo Women’s 3 Final

~

Men’s Final 4

Balancey powerful moves up volumes, a big cross to bonus, more delicate looking moves across some jibs and small volumes, a sloping dish for the finish.

James did well on the bottom but didn't get to the bonus.

James did well on the bottom but didn’t get to the bonus. Neither did Jorg or Vadim.

Guillaume in the middle of his near-flash. Instead he fell on the last hold when he moved too quickly and swung off the not-jug. Bummer.

Guillaume in the middle of his near-flash. Instead he fell on the last hold when he moved too quickly and swung off the not-jug. He didn’t end up finishing. Bummer.

GG near the end.

GG near the end.

There was some success on this bolder though, Dmitrii flashed and Jan finished 2nd try.

~

Women’s Final 4

 A couple of powerful moves right out a roof with some big underclings, then a thrutch to the bonus which only Shauna, Alex, and Akiyo stuck, then a huge move to the next blue triangle, a small jib/mantle, and the top.

Akiyo trying to figure out how to do the stopper move.

Akiyo with her right hand on bonus trying to figure out how to do the stopper move. You can see GG on the mat right after falling from the end of Men’s 4.

Alex becoming the only woman to stick this move and make the only send of Women's Final 4.

Alex becoming the only woman to stick this move and make the only send of Women’s Final 4. All three to get here tried toehooking/heelhooking but Alex quickly gave up on that and just jumped.

Alex about to mantle to the top.

Alex about to mantle to the top.

~

Final Results

Women's Final Results Chonqing 2014 Men's Final Results Chonqing 2014 Women's Podium Chonqing 2014 Men's Podium Chonqing 2014

Results on IFSC Site

You can see more media on Facebook and also follow the World Cups in general via The Circuit World Cup Magazine.

Finally, here’s a picture of our setter Joel Zerr competing in qualis in China. It was his first-ever World Cup and he got 30th. Nice job Joel!!!

Joel Zerr Bouldering World Cup China by Eddie Fowkes

 

ABS Nationals 2014! Finals Wrap-Up and Results UPDATED

February 23, 2014 2 comments
Michael O'Rourke

Michael O’Rourke on Men’s Semi 3

There is a lot that can be said about this exciting ABS Nationals, but if you have the internet you’ve probably seen or read most of it already. For those who don’t want to do the digging and don’t have time to watch the replays, I’ve offered some thoughts on finals below.

Megan Mascarenas nearly finished Women's Final 4  |  Keith North

Megan Mascarenas nearly finished Women’s Final 4 | Keith North

~

Women’s Finals

For the viewer (at least at home) the women’s finals were far less exciting than the men’s. One reason might be that the male climber seemed to take precedence on the live feed, so the opinion of those of us watching at home may be biased because of that. I hate to be too critical as I know how hard it is to set for these types of events and also as I usually prefer to set and climb a more technical type boulder (as these were), but the consensus among those I’ve talked with is that the women’s finals just didn’t seem as cool as the men’s. They did succeed in getting the job done though, with a clean separation of the field in final scores.

UPDATE – According to competitors the first two women’s finals were actually super fun to climb on. Apologies for assuming they weren’t as cool when really they just didn’t look as good via feed.

UPDATE for clarification – 7 women went to finals because Jule Wurm is German, not American, and they needed six American females in finals. Jule is a talented World Cup climber that you’ve probably heard of by now if you read our World Cup recaps every season.

Final 1 was a pretty basic sequence that seemed a bit more committing for the shorter competitors and involved a mantle/rock-over and then some crimps/edges up a face. Half the field bungled the mantle and fell at least once, but the top didn’t seem too hard (except when Alex Puccio tried to dyno for the last hold first go and missed). Puccio ended up crimping on the side of the volume when she got out of sequence and using that volume edge crimp to do the last move.

Jule Wurm flashing WF1

Jule Wurm flashing WF1. Alex Puccio crimped the bottom left corner of that high blue triangle.

Women’s Final 2 looked the least pleasant of the bunch, as the holds were uninspiring to look at and none of the competitors seemed to be enjoying the climb. The bottom was tensiony on smaller holds, then there was a scrunchy press left on some sloper things, then a “triple-bump” that knocked Alex Johnson off, that Angie Payne managed, that Alex Puccio housed, and that Jule skipped (by standing tall from the 2nd hold to the top of the finish hold). The taller girls as a whole looked miserable on this problem, and I’m not sure how tall Grace is but she, Jule, Angie, and Puccio did it whereas Megan, Margo, and Alex Johnson did not.

Angie sticking the third bump.

Angie sticking the third bump. WF2.

Women’s Final 3 was far more interesting and involved a mantle onto a big volume, then a jump to a main dish with an overhead press on another main dish to stabilize. The setters added a hold to help with the jump and it probably made it possible but it also left some of the competitors stranded in the splits. Puccio, Angie, and Grace didn’t manage to get out of it, but the rest of the competitors sent. This time it seemed the taller competitors had the advantage.

Alex Puccio kinda stuck.

Alex Puccio kinda stuck.

Jule managed to jump out of the splits and into the overhead press.

Jule managed to jump out of the splits and into the overhead press.

Margo with the old head-press-rest.

Margo with the old head-press-rest.

Alex Johnson flashed.

Alex Johnson flashed.

Women’s Final 4 was the showpiece of the bunch with a dyno out the roof that neither Alex Johnson nor Angie managed to stick, though both were painfully close. Margo and Grace stuck it and got up to the powerful undercling match under the lip of the roof, and Margo got her hands above the roof before falling. Margo did some great route style resting and then used a kneebar/twist to get through the first few roof moves. You can tell the girl has climbed at Hueco. I’m so proud. Anyways, at the lip Megan went up with her wrong hand first, but instead of matching as Margo did (she tried but then abandoned the idea), Megan downclimbed to the undercling match, then went up with her correct (right) hand. Megan then proceeded to do two more unlikely looking moves, only to fall off the last move of the boulder! The endurance and power she showed were impressive to say the least, and it’s clear she could have sent if she hadn’t made an energy-sapping mistake. Jule Wurm also climbed to the top of the problem, only to fall going for the finish. That left Alex Puccio who, true to form, stuck the dyno 2nd (or 3rd?) go, then pretty much hiked her way to the top, doing the powerful last move like it was nothing and showing why she is still the American Champion.

Margo copping a rest.

Margo copping a rest.

Jule mid-problem.

Jule mid-problem.

Megan Mascarenas so very close.

Megan Mascarenas so very close.

Alex Puccio doing the last move on the giant baby heads.

Alex Puccio doing the last move on the giant baby heads.

The way the scores work, tops are given the most weight, then points, then flashes/attempts. Jule Wurm and Alex Puccio both climbed 3 boulders, but on the boulder Jule didn’t send, Final 4, she got to the last move, literally touched the last hold, so she got 16 points. On the problem Alex didn’t do she got stuck in the splits early on and so only got 3 points for it. Therefore, Jule is first in this comp and won but Alex Puccio is still considered the American Bouldering Champion.

~

Women’s Final Results

1. Jule Wurm

2. Alex Puccio (US National Champion)

3. Megan Mascarenas

4. Margo Hayes

5. Grace McKeehan

6. Alex Johnson

7. Angie Payne

~

Men’s Finals

The short of it is, Daniel Woods dominated the men’s category with sends of all four boulders, and close on his heels were Vasya Vorotnikov, who made an incredibly exciting send of Men’s Final 2, and a young man named Andy Lamb who came out of nowhere to impress everybody on his way to a third place finish. Michael O’Rourke, climbing in his first ABS Open Nationals final, also gave an impressive showing and though he missed the corner press beta on Men’s Final 1, he was the only competitor besides Daniel to stick a powerful pinch move on Men’s Final 4. Paul Robinson surprised himself by making finals, as he’s been primarily climbing outdoors of late, and he climbed well with a flash of the first problem and a near-send of the third. Finally Jon Cardwell looked strong as always but seemed a bit stymied by reach on all the problems, for example, on Final 1 there was a corner press that he simply couldn’t reach, on Final 2 he was very extended for already extended jumps, on Final 3 he had trouble reaching the final hold with his body in a stable position, and on Final 4 the jump to the pinch was huge, though he nearly made it and had a handful of the hold a couple of times. All in all a good effort from all the men and very exciting viewing.

Paul Robinson styling the corner press on F1.

Paul Robinson styling the corner press on F1.

Jon can't quite reach the good spot. F1.

Jon can’t quite reach the good spot. F1.

Michael O'Rourke eyeing up the bad pinch on Men's Final 2.

Michael O’Rourke eyeing up the bad pinch on Men’s Final 2. He got to the top of the boulder but tried a rose move for the finish and missed the final hold. Below, Vasya shows how it was supposed to be done.

Vasya doing the cross under finish move.

Vasya doing the cross under finish move on F2. Daniel did it this way and sent as well.

The mysterious Andy Lamb atop Men's Final 3.

The mysterious Andy Lamb atop the balancy Men’s Final 3.

Bad shot but it shows how big this move was. Daniel sticking it.

Bad shot but it shows how big this move on F4 was. Daniel sticking it.

Daniel two moves from the top. He did it 2nd go.

Daniel two moves from the top. He fell here first try and finished it 2nd go.

Men’s Final Results

1. Daniel Woods

2. Vasya Vorotnikov

3. Andy Lamb

4. Michael O’Rourke

5. Paul Robinson

6. Jon Cardwell

~

Podiums

Jule Wurm (1st) Alex Puccio (2nd) Megan Mascarenas (3rd)

Jule Wurm (1st) Alex Puccio (2nd) Megan Mascarenas (3rd)

Men's Podium ABS 15 Nationals 2014

Men’s Podium ABS 15 Nationals 2014. Daniel Woods (1st) Vasya Vorotnikov (2nd) Andy Lamb (3rd)

Final Results

Final Results

~

Want to see for yourself?

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final Results + Overall Season Results

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Finals Replay

~

Munich Final Results

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women's Podium in Munich.

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women’s Podium in Munich.

Munich Women's Final Scores

Munich Women’s Final Scores

Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!

~

Munich Men’s Final Results

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.

Rei Sugimoto

Winner Rei Sugimoto

Men's Final Scores

Men’s Final Scores

~

Season Overall Podiums

Women's Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Women’s Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Men's Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

Men’s Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final 4

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Women’s Final 4

Dinara. Yes, it's blurry, but wow.

Dinara. Yes, it’s blurry, but wow.

Jump across to a jug undercling/swing catch. Big move (Petra figure 4’ed) to another volume, two volumes with jibs, high right foot on large green volume, press into corner with whole body to finish. The end especially seemed difficult and competitors tried some interesting things.

Dinara – fell, then caught dyno dramatically with one hand, got into volumes but fell.

Dinara going up to the volumes

Dinara going up to the volumes

Dinara trying to get her head in.

Dinara trying to get her head in.

Petra – did dyno, stylish figure 4, tried some real shenanagins on volumes, fell out of them. No finish.

Petra Klingler trying the arm bar

Petra Klingler trying the arm bar

Melanie – stuck dyno, had trouble moving up.

Katha – slipped off jump, did jump, got to high volumes, fell, back up, left hand on high volume, pressed into corner, sent!

Katha pressing into the corner at the top of final 4

Katha pressing into the corner at the top of final 4

Alex – fell off jump, then did it, fell from volumes b/c wrong hand up first, went again, went left first like Katha did, pressed pressed pressed. Sent! It looked very very close but it worked! Good job Alex!

Alex went right hand up but it worked out.

Alex went right hand up the first time. She looked strong but fell.

Alex using the correct method.

Alex using the correct method.

Alex mantling.

Alex mantling.

Backen-foot and lean across to the finish jib.

Backen-foot and lean across to the finish jib.

Shauna – tried to static jump, fell a couple times, stuck it, hiked the top even though she went up right to the top volume and that hosed everyone else who tried it. Very strong effort from Shauna.

Shauna made this look easy.

Shauna made this look easy.

Shauna pressing with style.

Shauna pressing with style.

Send!

Anna – falls off jump. If she sends this climb she wins the comp. Gets back up. Goes right to top volume, seems stuck, eventually gets hands right, stems out, finishes. She wins!

Anna finishing problem 4

Anna finishing problem 4

~

Men’s Final 4

Rustam going with the swing on Men's Final 4

Rustam going with the swing at the start on Men’s Final 4

Weird moves from holds on a volume out to another huge volume with a little hold on the edge and another on the tip. Power move up left to the huge bonus blob. Rock up right to arete hold. Sit on bonus, move left to press finish.

Sachi – tried some interesting things to get out, didn’t sort it out.

Sacha Amma trying Men's Final 4

Sacha Amma trying to go backwards on Men’s Final 4

Rei – wow! Another impressive effort from Rei.

Rei staring down the arete hold at the top of MF4

Rei staring down the arete hold at the mid top of MF4

Rei figured out the bottom and then hiked carefully to last move, where he hung out for a while trying to decide what to do.

Rei trying to commit to the last move.

Rei trying to commit to the last move.

He finally committed to the dynamic move, rocked left and used his right elbow to press into the wall to keep him from barn dooring out.

Rei using the elbow

Rei using the elbow

It worked, he stuck the finish!

Rei sending Men's Final 4

Rei just after sending Men’s Final 4

Mayhaylo – went out backwards at the start but made it work!

Mahaylo feet first.

Mahaylo feet first.

Mahaylo turning around.

Mahaylo turning around.

Mahaylo looking very strong.

Mahaylo looking very strong on the one arm.

Up to bonus, stood up on arete, foot up on bonus, couldn’t figure out last move, eventually fell. No send.

Rustam – fell from the start, then worked it out, stood up high at the top, crimped wall panel, left foot to final hold, leaned over, matched, done.

Rustam crimping gaston left hand on the wall panel in his chest, left foot first to the finish. He leaned over and matched it for the win.

Rustam crimping gaston left hand on the wall panel in his chest, left foot first to the finish. He leaned over and matched it for the win.

Dmitrii – fell from start repeatedly, after powering out first moves but getting stuck moving to bonus. Doesn’t finish, and it ends this comp but he’s still overall 1st place for the season.

Dmitrii struggling with the volume.

Dmitrii struggling with the volume. He basically jumped and held the swing to the little jib, and it seemed like he was just too pumped to power to the bonus so he was trying to get there via other means, but he wasn’t able to make it work.

Thomas – If he sends he wins. The crowd is chanting for him. Unfortunately he struggles on bottom, falls repeatedly, doesn’t get through it. Silver.

Rei wins!

IFSC Bouldering World Cup #8 – Munich – Finals Problems 1 & 2

August 25, 2013 1 comment
Petra Klinger of Switzerland not quite finishing WF1

Petra Klingler of Switzerland not quite finishing WF1

Women’s Final 1

This problem looked really balancy, and nearly everyone fell at least once, often many times. The top looked particularly challenging as it was necessary to press off a low foot and do some hand maneuvering, then get a high right foot and rock up onto it while pulling on the small holds and volume to the finish.

Dinara Fakhritdinova – bonus

Petra Klingler – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top

Melanie Sandoz – flash

Katha Saurwein – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top

Alex Puccio – flash to bonus, fell. didn’t finish

Shauna Coxsey – falling, bonus, not sure her highpoint

Anna Stöhr – falling, bonus…

Anna Stöhr trying to figure out the top of WF1.

Anna Stöhr trying to figure out the top of WF1. She slipped right after this.

After Anna fell off the bottom a few more times she got back up, instead of matching put right on gaston, left into the undercling she’s trying to match on in the pic above, right to volume, grabbed the top! Only the 2nd send of the boulder and it puts her in 2nd as Melanie flashed.

~

Men’s Final 1

Sachi Amma of Japan showing off the only 2 moves of MF1 that anyone did.

Sachi Amma of Japan showing off the only 2 moves of MF1 that anyone did. No one could stick the jump to the red eyebrow out right. Everything just looked too slippery.

Sachi Amma – 0

Rei Sugimoto – 0

Mykhaylo Shalagin – 0

Rustam Gelmanov – 0

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov – 0

Thomas Tauporn – 0

~

Women’s Final 2

Dinara flashing WF2

Dinara flashing WF2 with her own method.

The announcers said they thought you were supposed to go to the left side of the volume, but the girls jumped straight up one two left and then right to the high right dish. From there left hand flip to catch the swing (Dinara didn’t flip), then squeeze left on the volume/bonus, left again to undercling, high feet, stand up to finish.

Dinara – flash

Petra – falling, does sweet jump with left hand flip for the catch, finishes the problem with 2 knees and a heel hook.

Petra heel hooking to the top.

Petra heel hooking to the top.

Melanie – falls, bonus, falls, no send. Keeps falling trying to get left hand to upper left undercling for last move.

Katha – eventual send

Alex – flash

Shauna – flash

Anna – flash

~

Men’s Final 2

Blobs, arete, press into an volume, move around the volume to the finish.

Sachi – bonus

Rei – scroll down:

Rei at the start of MF2

Rei at the start of MF2

Rei Sugimoto working into the top volume.

Rei Sugimoto working into the top volume.

Rei pressing into the volume. He moved slowly and precisely so he wouldn't fall.

Rei pressing into the volume. He moved slowly and precisely so he wouldn’t fall.

Rei clinging to the volume as he reaches left for the final hold.

Rei clinging to the volume as he reaches left for the final hold.

Rei makes the first top in the men's round.

Rei makes the first top in the men’s round.

Mykhaylo – no top, bonus?

Rustam – looked good, got bonus, fell getting feet up. Falls again, calls to crowd for support, falls again, Heel blows, falls again.

Dmitrii – sends 2nd go and in 1st now.

Thomas – sends! Several goes. In 2nd now.

Rei is now in 3rd.

~

 

 

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #7 – Vail – Women’s Qualifiers

June 7, 2013 3 comments
The scene at Women's Qualifiers

The scene at Women’s Qualifiers. Far left is Women’s 1, Blue volume on the red streak is #2, Roof with white holds is #3, far right overhang with volumes is #4. #5 is at the far right side of the wall and is near vertical on volumes. See below.

Women's Quali 5

Akiyo Noguchi staring down Women’s Quali 5

~

As usual the best ranked climbers climbed first, and since most of Team USA’s girls haven’t done any World Cups most of Team USA will climb near the end of the pack. Here’s a quick rundown of the problems, I’ll post results when the round is over.

The live commentator did a little interview with some of the women after they climbed. First was the #1 ranked woman, Austrian Anna Stöhr, and she had some interesting things to say. For one, she loves being in Vail. In regards to winning all the time:

I don’t think that I’m that much stronger than the other girls, sometimes I think I just had a bit more luck they they had.    ~ Anna Stöhr

He also interviewed Alex Puccio about her qualifiers and if the altitude is affecting her at all:

I had a couple mishaps, I slipped off the top of the fourth one in the beginning. On the last one I slid off the start hold two times then I did it. It’s good to make your mistakes early on.

I used to be used to the altitude when I lived here. Every year that I haven’t been living here it gets harder and harder. I feel like I’m going to throw up after each problem and I’m not even falling up high. I can’t imagine falling at the top and trying to climb them again.  ~ Alex Puccio

And Shauna Coxsey, who was quite cheery despite a knee problem she’s been having that the announcer asked her about:

It’s just hindering me a little bit on certain moves. It’s a bit of a disadvantage but it’s more important to climb next year than this comp which is why I stopped trying on number 3. I’ll just see how it goes. Take it easy and not push myself on certain moves too hard.

On the altitude:

Altitude’s a disadvantage but it’s a disadvantage for everyone. You get so pumped and so out of breath, everyone coming back [to iso] looks like they’ve just run a marathon. ~ Shauna Coxsey

Shauna will be staying around the Colorado for the next few weeks to climb on Colorado rock, so let’s hope her knee stays strong and she gets to climb some hard boulders! After that she’s home for training, then out to Australia for more climbing, then back home for more training before the next Bouldering World Cup of the season, Munich in August.

Back to qualifiers. As we saw in the Spot last week, there are many extremely strong women here to compete. It will be exciting to see how everyone does here in Vail! Here are the first set of problems they were tested against:

~

Women’s Quali 1

Start under a small hang, move over lip to slab, two blobs, out left to blob on volume and a volume with two jibs on it. Mantle up/undercling volume, stand tall, foot on jib, stand up to finish. Don’t move too fast to top or fall off. Some interesting methods were tried on this one.

Alex Puccio on Women's 1

Alex Puccio on the first move of Women’s Q 1

Alex on move 2

Alex matching the blobs

Alex on move 3

Alex getting on the volume

Megan Mascarenas on move 6

Megan Mascarenas working out the mantle. She used strange beta but made it work.

Claire Bell using the knee

Claire Bell using the knee

Tiffany Hensley taking a seat on WQ1

Tiffany Hensley taking a seat on WQ1

Megan standing it up

Megan standing it up. Most used the edge of the volume as she is with her left hand.

Megan at the top.

Megan at the top.

Lisa Chulich couldn't quite reach, but this was good enough to get her a top. Nice job Lisa!

Lisa Chulich couldn’t quite reach, but this was good enough to get her a top. Nice job Lisa!

~

Women’s Quali 2

Start, grab blob, work left, heel, rock up right hand to volume, compress the arete on volumes.

Isabelle Faus on the start of WQ2

Isabelle Faus on the arete of WQ2

Anna Stohr bumping to the underblob on the arete of Q2

Anna Stohr bumping to the underblob on the arete of Q2

Up to a blob bonus, rock over to the headwall on a volume to a challenging jump to and a challenging match on the finish volume.

Anna Stohr moving to bonus

Anna Stohr moving to bonus

Melissa Le Neve topping 2

Melissa Le Neve topping 2. Akiyo did it with a stem out right. Shauna kept her left foot low. So did Angie.

Angie Payne about to match.

Angie Payne about to match. She did, then her feet cut and she sort of campused.

~

Women’s Quali 3

Steep and powerful. Start on pinches, one hold on flat wall, heel or toe up on start hold, committing move to first big hold in roof.

Tyler Youngwerth

Tyler Youngwerth using the heel hook.

Monika Retschy headed up the roof on WQ3

Monika Retschy headed up the roof on WQ3

Match. Thuggy looking moves through roof with clamp feet. Keep the feet on or fall off.

Melissa Le Neve on the steepest part of WQ3

Melissa Le Neve on the steepest part of WQ3. She looked really shaky on this one but managed to finish it!

Up to pinch, left to bonus hold (big matching hold just under lip)

Aya Onoe on WQ4

Aya Onoe going to bonus on WQ3

Match bonus.

Melissa matching on WQ4

Melissa matching on WQ3. Notice the block at the top left of the hold. There is one just below it as well, making this hold more challenging to grab and move off of.

Kyra Condie and the blocked bonus hold on WQ3

Kyra Condie and another view of the blocked bonus hold on WQ3

Over the lip left hand to the blue hold between the Enterprises E and N below.

Megan Mascarenas getting over the roof. Unfortunately she fell before moving on.

Megan Mascarenas getting over the roof. Unfortunately she fell before moving on.

Out right to white blob, match, up right to finish on Versa-pinch.

Melissa Le Neve at the top

Melissa Le Neve sticking the top of women’s Q3.

This last move seemed to be a bit of a surprise for most competitors who got there. It must have been farther than it looked as competitors including Shauna Coxsey and Angie Payne came slightly short of sticking it. To her surprise, Melissa Le Neve did stick it.

Melissa Le Neve glad to be on the finish hold of WQ3

Melissa Le Neve glad to be on the finish hold of WQ3

~

Women’s Quali 4

Steep and powerful up an overhanging wall and an arete. Start on two balls, feet on pinchtites, jump to a bloctite with another bloctite just over it.

Melanie Sandoz on the first move of WQ4

Melanie Sandoz on the first move of WQ4

Lisa Chulich tried using the right arete to stand tall. It worked but she then tried to do a dynamic cross to the bloctite that she couldn’t stick. It looked like a toehook or just using the regular method would have been better for her.

Lisa Chulich trying to use the arete.

Lisa Chulich trying to use the arete.

Akiyo on WQ4

Akiyo did the regular method and quickly got her feet up.

Match the bloctites with a foot or feet up, power move to a small hold up and left,

Nina Williams powering to the crimp

Nina Williams powering to the crimp

…heel on…

Francesca Metcalf on WQ4

Francesca Metcalf preparing to move up to the volume

then left around the arete to the bonus hold.

Akiyo Noguchi Women's Q4

Akiyo moving from bonus and volume up to the crimp and 2tex vortex. The vortex is pretty good if you hit it right but it’s a small hole and the inside is very good in one position and not so good in the others.

Balance on the heel and get right hand in vortex.

Angie Payne bumping.

Angie Payne bumping to the vortex.

Angie Payne balancing to bump her left hand in.

Angie Payne balancing to bump her left hand in.

The sequence Angie tried for the end was: bump left into the little blue hold below the lip, right up to higher blue hold on headwall. I imagine next would be left hand into vortex, up to finish, but she fell here and didn’t get back before time ran out.

Next

Next would be up to the blue hold in the Enterprises S.

From there it looked like you could thrutch left to the last pinch or you could maybe flip the vortex and go right as a gaston then match. Don’t remember if anyone tried the flip method, most didn’t even get near the top of this one.

Melissa Le Neve finishing left on Women's Quali 4

Melissa Le Neve finishing left hand first on Women’s Quali 4

~

Women’s Quali 5

Back to the vertical for some balance, stand-up, squeeze, and press moves on volumes. This one required the climbers to  move deliberately with good body tension. The start seemed quite challenging, the middle ok, then matching the undercling bonus was powerful and matching the finish was no picnic either. Most who got to the last hold did figure out the match, but I saw at least one climber move too fast at the top and slip trying to match the finish before they’d gotten a solid body position.

Katha Saurwein of Austria on the bottom of WQ5

Katha Saurwein of Austria on the bottom of WQ5

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk working her way up Q5

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk getting in position for the stand up on Q5

Alex Puccio making her way through the middle of Quali 5

Alex Puccio making her way through the middle and onto the bonus of Quali 5

Shauna getting in position to match the finish hold, the left volume, of Qualifier 5.

Shauna getting in position to match the finish hold, the left volume, of Qualifier 5.

Staying low like Shauna is here seemed the best way. Several competitors mantled up on the left hand and then tried to reach down and match. Mina Leslie-Wujastyk dropped back down to the position Shauna is in and matched. Melanie Sandoz (FRA) went for the match from the high position but her foot slipped as she brought her right hand across and she had to try again, fell repeatedly at the bottom and throughout the problem, and unfortunately didn’t finish. Briton Leah Crane fell in the middle but then got back up and tried a few things before eventually making the match without falling.

Leah Crane trying a method to match the top.

Leah Crane trying the mantle method.

Leah trying something else.

Leah trying something else.

Leah working it out.

Leah working it out.

Screen Shot 2013-06-07 at 11.26.46 AM

Done

~

Click Here to See Women’s Qualifier Results

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