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SCS Nationals 2013 – Final Results!
Carlo and Charlotte Durif in finals. | LT11 Live Broadcast
The 2013 SCS National Championships is over and the results are in. Hopefully you all watched the comp on live feed or, if you were in Boulder, in person. The event looked exciting, with 11 women and 9 men in finals (they needed 8 American non-National or Continental Champions in finals, so they took extra until they fulfilled that that need). The routes looked hard, but not short and bouldery like last year’s. Instead, the announcers said that the routes are supposed to be true sport style, with each move progressively a bit harder than the last.
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Men’s Finals
Jon Cardwell on the Men’s Final
For the men, Daniel Woods qualified in 7th and put on a fantastic performance, looking controlled and powerful throughout. It looked like he might send the route but then he fell on the top headwall. With six men left to go it was probably nerve wracking for him to wait and see how he’d end up. In the end, he dominated the field and walked away with his first SCS National Championship.
Carlo Traversi was one of the top 4 climbers in qualifiers (4 men flashed everything) and Carlo looked very strong on the finals route. He has won SCS Nationals twice (2009 and 2011) and has spent most of the last year traveling and bouldering outside. He looked good moving through the pinch, then fell trying to establish on the headwall. The performance put him just behind Daniel for 2nd place.
Noah Ridge is clearly the up-and-comer to watch, as he did well at both ABS Nationals and SCS Nationals this year. He looked like he had power to spare climbing up the route, got through the pinch, then hit the headwall and flamed out for a proud 3rd place.
Jon Cardwell and Vasya Voritnikov both looked strong through the bottom, then fell suddenly trying to stick what looked like a slopey fat-lip gaston pinch just below the lip of the headwall. Interestingly, Jon and Vasya tied for 4th in the final and had to do a superfinal (to determine who was in 4th, since 4th place makes the National Team and 5th doesn’t), and the superfinal was another lap on the final route. Vasya looked a bit tired but climbed well.
Vasya chilling in the kneebar.
He took a kneebar rest in the middle of the route, then climbed on to the pinch he’d fallen off before. He stuck it, matched it, looked strong, then suddenly a foot slipped and he was off. Jon was next and climbed quickly and confidently through the bottom of the route.
Jon in the Superfinal
He stuck the pinch where he’d fallen before, matched, and moved onto the headwall.
The move in question. Jon fell here first time around.
Jon began up the headwall before falling on his superfinal go. It was enough to earn him 4th place and a spot on the US Team.
For a moment it looked like he’d finish the route, but then he fell below Daniel’s highpoint. It was still a fantastic show and impressive that both Vasya and Jon could best their previous efforts on this low-end 5.14 route with a very short rest.
Noah Ridge (3) Daniel Woods (1) and Carlo Traversi (2)
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Women’s Finals
Charlotte Durif just after copping a rest early on the women’s final.
In my opinion, Delaney Miller looked the strongest on the women’s final, climbing solidly through the entire route until she fell two moves from the top in a cruxy section involving a pocket that you had to hit and then rock into and cross off. Delaney hit the pocket well but got lost trying to move out of it and fell. Unlike the other competitors, Delaney didn’t even try to cop a rest on the headwall and instead just kept plugging along until she was suddenly off. A very impressive performance.
Chelsea Rude qualified in 2nd and came out looking strong. Movement is her home gym, and she certainly looked in control through the bottom section of the route. In the headwall she took a rest with both hands on two small holds on the bottom volume of the two on the headwall. The rest looked ok and Chelsea looked fairly relaxed. She went to move up to the next holds on the bottom of the next volume, flubbed it, came back down, and tried to rest again, but she looked more tired. She managed to get up to the next volume holds her next try, but then fell trying to get into the pocket.
French champion Charlotte Durif was here to win the women’s category, and win she did, as the only woman to send the women’s final. She found some kneebars in the top headwall, then after resting a bit executed a perfect dropknee and did a French blow (blowing chalk off her fingers with the relaxed detachment of an old man casually sending your project in Font on his after-work circuit) while moving to the pocket that Delaney had fallen from. From there she matched on the outside of the pocket, threw a heel-hook, crossed to the second to last hold, and easily jumped to the finish. Awesome.
Charlotte la la la la la backen-kneebar mega rest la la
Did a dropknee to the pocket. Now stepping out of it.
Let’s have a heel hook. Why not?
Crossing out of the heel and off the pocket NBD.
In all fairness, it did sorta kinda look like she might fall here. Maybe. But she didn’t.
Rolling out of the cross.
Annnnd…..done.
Victory lower. Nice job Charlotte!
So Charlotte won the comp, but she’s not American, so Delaney Miller is our new National Champion! Great job Delaney. As a competitor, it seems like she’s come a long way in the last couple of years and is capable of representing the USA well on the World Circuit. Good luck to her in any international comps she attends this season!
Chelsea Rude (3) Charlotte Durif (1) and Delaney Miller (2)
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Final Results
Lead Final Results. Jon is above Vasya due to superfinal scores, which are not reflected in their points here.
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Speed
Speed Finals Women.
Women’s Speed Podium. Kyra Condie in 1st.
Men’s Speed Podium. Josh Levin in 1st.
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If you want to see more, LT11 should have highlights coming and may have live broadcast replays as well. Their video page is here – LT11
ABS 14 Open Nationals – Quali Results
Spot Coach Tiffany Hensley about to finish Women’s Quali 1
We are SO PROUD of setter and coach Ian Dory, who ended up in 8th after qualis, and coach Tiffany Hensley, who is in 11th. Both will be competing in Semifinals this morning, starting at 11am (watch on live feed here!)
Setter and Coach Ian Dory on his first go on Quali 4. He did it next try.
While you are waiting you can watch replays of the qualifiers (most women, last 1/2 of men) here - ABS14 Nationals 2013 Qualifier Replays
We would also like to give a shout out to SBS 8 competitors Megan Mascarenas (1st), Nina Wiliams (5th), Tyler Youngwerth (20th), Kati Peters (21st), and Jesse Youngwerth (22nd); and for the men Daniel Woods (tied for 2nd), Michael O’Rourke (4th), Rob D’Anastasio (5th), Matt Wilder (9th), Jon Cardwell (11th), Ben Hoberg (13th) Matty Hong (14th), and Garrett Gregor (15th) who have all made it into Semifinals.
Matty Hong on Men’s 1
ALSO props to our previous head setter Carlo Traversi, who qualified in 10th, and to Matt Lubar, who started out at The Spot and was on our youth team for quite a while. Lubar now climbs for Team ABC and he qualified in 21st, just out of finals. He is a regular fixture in SBS comps and did well in SBS Open Finals this year as well.
Nice job everyone!
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ABS 14 Nationals Men’s Semi’s Running Order
ABS 14 Nationals Women’s Semi’s Running Order
ABS 14 Nationals Men’s Quali Results
ABS 14 Nationals Women’s Quali Results
More Info: ABS Nationals Homepage
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Semi’s Live Feed (starting at 11am) - TV | Louder Than 11
“The Battle” Norway Men’s 4
Men’s 4
Set by Carlo. Undercling, sloper gaston left, out to incut gaston right, hand-foot match cross, drop down to undercling, tricky sequence of hand bumps, up to pinch, up… When watching the earlier problems it seemed like the climbers who set them had a plan and then other climbers found other ways to do them. The hand sequence at the bottom of this problem seemed to be unskippable, and everybody did the same thing until the jump to the pinch. Everyone but Daniel even used the same foot maneuvers.
Daniel on the 2nd move.
Carlo with the hand-foot match just before the low cross.
Nalle doing the cross at the start. You can just see his foot up behind him.
Then your foot comes off and it puts you in this position. Then bump right out to undercling, then…
Daniel on the first crux, bumping the left hand back down to the good incut with the tick on it. Then right hand up where left is now and jump to the pinch.
Dave fell on this jump to the pinch. Most went left hand and caught it as a hamhock, Daniel went right hand.
Magnus copped a rest in the middle on a pinch. Next move out to the green feature, match it, flip it…
…and Daniel went to the undercling left hand first…
…Nalle did this strenuous looking cross. So did Magnus and Carlo.
Daniel one move from the top. Double-undercling cross to the pinch. Jump to the finish.
The last hold was not a jug, but it was good enough.
Nalle at the top
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More
“The Battle” Norway Men’s 5 and Podium
Men’s 5
The final boulder was set by Magnus Midtbo and looked to be quite strenuous.
Dave used the toehook method for the start.
Nalle and everybody else used this heel-hook left hand first method.
After matching the tiny undercling pocket everyone gastoned left on this foot chip. Then either dynoed or extended to the holds atop the eyeball.
Magnus finally abandoned the double dyno and went with the left hand first, then crossed under to the yellow, tried to match, then went back to the cross and pulled up into a lock-off to the next right hand hold.
Dave struggling on the eyeball.
Carlo in the middle moves.
These moves seemed cruiser compared to the rest. Magnus even rested here before the difficult jump out left to the first of the last two pockets.
The little pockets at the top.
The second crux of men’s 5 seemed to be the last move. Nalle was the first to get here but with both feet slipping off the big teal eyeball he was unable or unwilling to move to the top and dropped off.
Nalle got to the last move but couldn’t or wouldn’t do the far pull off the little pockets with no feet to grab the finish.
Nalle looked exhausted just after dropping off the last move of problem 5.
Daniel came next and found a slightly different solution…
Daniel used both toes for a minute before shifting to his left heel to get his hand to the finish box.
After much effort on the bottom Magnus eventually abandoned his sequence and powered through. The top proved less of a problem for him as he, too, hooked the wall in the finish box and moved in to match it for the problem’s 3rd send.
Daniel hitting the finish box. He was the first to get here and the crowd went wild.
Carlo was very psyched to finish this for his 4th top.
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Men’s Podium
The winner :: Daniel Woods
Announcer. 1. Daniel 2. Carlo 3. Magnus 4. Nalle
3. Magnus 4. Nalle 5. Dave (all in black)
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More
“The Battle” Norway – Women’s 1 & 2 and links to athlete intro and 3 & 4 and podium
“The Battle” Norway
One of the two walls set for women’s and men’s finals. From the left, men’s 1, women’s 1, women’s 2, men’s 2.
This comp is cool because the competitors get to set their own problems. A very small field of 5 men and 4 women got to set their own problems and work on all of the problems yesterday. Today are finals, and each competitor gets 4 minutes per problem to try and send. They climb in rotating schedule, so they can get up to 12 minutes (women) and 16 minutes (men) rest in between climbs. If someone sends fast, the rest is shorter though. Women’s routes are in red, men’s are in teal.
The other wall. From the left, women’s 3, men’s 3, women’s 4, men’s 4, men’s 5.
The problems were set on 2 awesome looking Walltopia walls, one with a big eyeball feature in it. (above). 2 problems for girls and 2 for guys on the first wall, 2 girls and 3 guys on the second wall. The climbers climbed in order of their problems, with women climbing first and men later after they’d stripped the women’s problems. Here are the women:
Set problem 1, climbed first on each. Magnus’ sister.
Set problem 2, climbed 2nd on each problem.
Set 3rd boulder, climbed 3rd.
Set last, climbed last.
And the men:
Set problem 1, climbed 1st on all.
Set 2nd boulder, climbed 2nd.
Set 3rd boulder, climbed 3rd.
Carlo set the 4th boulder and climbed 4th.
Set the last problem and climbed last. The home country favorite.
Everyone said they were tired from setting and forerunning yesterday, but they still managed to put on a great show. The live feed was excellent, the best I’ve seen in terms of feed quality, plus the graphics were good and the instant replays were instant. Very nice job on that, and it makes sense since it was apparently done by Norway’s national broadcasting organization. It’ll be good to see more high quality feeds at other climbing events in the future (we can only hope!).
2 upcoming posts will lay out the women’s and men’s problems and results. Stay tuned!
ABS Nationals Videos! – Updated with 2 new videos!
From Five Ten we have this video featuring short interviews with some athletes and some highlights:
From Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11, we have the Finals Highlights videos:
And if you are interested in watching more of the comp, these next four videos show every attempt of every competitor on each finals problem. If you watch them all in a row it is similar to watching the whole comp. For those who enjoy competitions, setting, or seeing how different pro climbers approach the same problems.
Carlo’s newest FA
The Altruist (V13/8B)
Carlo just finished off a longstanding project in Eldo at the PB boulders in the Flatirons and has called it The Altruist. He says there’s a video coming soon. Here’s another shot of the line. Nice job Carlo!!!
Carlo on Finding Your Style – An Interview with Peter Beal
Carlo in a strange position
If you’ve ever hung around the Spot while we’re forerunning you’ve probably noticed that Carlo has a pretty unique climbing style. Not the offwidth-corner-reverse-body-stem shown above, but one that involves a lot of pinching and jumping around on huge slopers. The key word in that sentence is jumping, and Carlo does a lot of it. Why? Partially because he’s often disadvantaged by height, but also because he has recognized that for his body type and specific strengths, technical momentum-based movement is an efficient way to succeed on many problems where brute strength would fail. Recently Peter Beal tracked Carlo down to find out more about what exactly he means by “momentum-based movement” and what he sees for the future of climbing. Read the interview here:
Carlo Traversi takes 2nd at Yank ‘n Yard – Results Update
Jon Cardwell winning Yank 'n Yard 2011. Check out the cool hanging volumes! | Greg Mionske
Carlo ventured down to New Mexico last weekend for the innovative Yank ‘n Yard bouldering competition. What makes it different? Last year the Yank ‘n Yard was the first bouldering comp in the US (maybe the world?) to have hanging volumes. You can check out the video of last year’s colorful finals here–14th Yank-n-Yard Recap. Our very own coach Tiffany Hensley won the women’s category at last year’s event, and Jon Glassberg took 4th in the men’s. This year Jon Carwell won the men’s and Carlo took 2nd. I have no idea of the results beyond that but I will post them and video if I see any. Nice job Carlo!
Update – Thanks to Bryan here are the top results. Notice that Megan Mascarenas, who also won the Open at the Gun Show, won the event.
Men
1st Jon Cardwell, Albuquerque, NM
2nd Carlo Traversi, Boulder CO
3rd Michael O’Rourke, Boulder CO
4th Nicholas Sherman, Boulder, CO
5th Ian Dory, Ft. Collins CO
6th, Asher Shay-Nemirow, Denver, CO
Women
1st Megan Mascarenas, CO Springs, CO
2nd Tyler Youngworth. CO Springs, CO
3rd Jesse Youngworth. CO Springs. CO
4th Sierra Blair-Coyle, Scottsdale, AZ
5th Flannery Shay-Nemirow, Denver, CO
6th Sarah Fullerton, CO Springs, CO
IFSC Lead World Cup – Semis Results + pictures. FINALS TONIGHT!
Canadian Mike Doyle leading off the semifinals round. The beginning of the route was powerful with long moves that some of the shorter competitors seemed to struggle on.
Two Americans made finals! Sasha DiGiulian finished in 7th and Matty Hong finished in 8th! We are also very proud of Carlo, who stuck a few hard moves at the end of his try to the delight of the crowd. Finals are tonight at 7pm. Read on for more pictures, a semis rundown, and links to the full semis results.
Scott Mechler interviews celebrity belay team Lynn Hill and Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou before the start of the semifinal round.
Carlo Traversi. He stuck the next hold and fell on the cross to the 1st blue hold above the volumes. At the time it was the best performance and was met with huge cheers from the audience. Carlo took 11th.
American Chelsea Rude stayed strong through this cruxy section and fell off near the next clip. Her performance was 2nd best for American women and earned her 11th place.
Paige Claassen ties the rope so fast her hands are a blurr! She and Katharina Saurwein of Austria await their turns on the semfinal route. Paige did well but fell on a difficult move to a pinch on the top of the volume-man and ended up in 13th overall. Katharina took 17th.
Matty Hong powering his way into finals in 8th place. He was the first competitor to stick the big black pinch a few moves higher, and that stick was enough to get him into finals. Nice job Matty!!!
Austrian Johanna Ernst literally hiked the route, climbing casually all the way to the anchor for the first (and one of only 2) sends. Johanna was one of 11 girls tied for 1st place after qualifiers. The routesetters had quite a task in separating these 11 girls into 8 un-tied girls with this single semifinal route, but they mostly succeeded.
Canadian Sean McColl came out and raced his way up the route, blowing past previous highpoints and establishing a new one near the top of the headwall. In this picture Sean is doing a stylish clip with a right hand undercling and both his feet bicycling a pinch out left. Photographer Caroline Treadway out right is taking his picture.
Spanish superstar Ramón Julian Pugiblanque nearing the top of the wall. He was only the second competitor to get this high after Canadian Sean McColl. He and Sean fell at the same place and ended semis tied for 2nd after semis.
Caroline Treadway spent most of the comp high on the sidewall taking pictures of the competitors. Here she shoots Austrian Jakob Schubert as he muscles toward the headwall. Schubert made it up to the three giant myorcean tufas above and fell matching in--one move before Ramón Julian Pugiblanque and Sean McColl fell.
Slovenian Maja Vidmar dropkneeing her way through the top of the semifinal. She looked strong on on the road to sending before both feet slipped off a bit higher and sent her off. She still ended up in 4th and will climb in finals tonight.
Top-ranked qualifier Sachi Amma of Japan, the only man to flash both his qualifiers yesterday, matched this highpoint in semis with Canadian Sean McColl and Spanish Ramón Julian Pugiblanque. All 3 fell off jumping for the next small e-grips pinch that was the last hold before the finish.
Slovenian Mina Markovich styling a dropknee near the top of the women's semifinal. Mina was the last to climb and previously only Austrian Johanna Ernst, who flashed the route, got as high as Mina is here.
Mina Markovic flashed the semifinal to maintain her place in a 1st place tie with Johanna Ernst. Here she is clipping the anchor clip--a move which seemed to be the last crux of the route as both competitors to get here hesitated before clipping. The rest of the 11 girls who were tied for first after qualifiers spread out into a 4th place tie and 4 other separated competitors.
Woman Finalists
1. Johanna Ernst (AUT)
1. Mina Markovic (SLO)
3. Momoka Oda (JPN)
4. Charlotte Durif (FRA)
4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)
6. Angela Eiter (AUT)
7. Sasha DiGiulian (USA) <———–!!!!!!
8. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Semis result W O M E N lead
Male Finalists
1. Sachi Amma (JPN)
2. Ramón Julian Pugiblanque (ESP)
2. Sean McColl (CAN)
4. Jakob Schubert (AUT)
5. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)
6. Romain Desgranges (FRA)
7. Manuel Romain (FRA)
8. Matty Hong (USA) <——————–!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Semis result M E N lead
