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IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final Results + Overall Season Results

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Finals Replay

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Munich Final Results

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women's Podium in Munich.

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women’s Podium in Munich.

Munich Women's Final Scores

Munich Women’s Final Scores

Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!

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Munich Men’s Final Results

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.

Rei Sugimoto

Winner Rei Sugimoto

Men's Final Scores

Men’s Final Scores

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Season Overall Podiums

Women's Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Women’s Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Men's Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

Men’s Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final 4

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Women’s Final 4

Dinara. Yes, it's blurry, but wow.

Dinara. Yes, it’s blurry, but wow.

Jump across to a jug undercling/swing catch. Big move (Petra figure 4′ed) to another volume, two volumes with jibs, high right foot on large green volume, press into corner with whole body to finish. The end especially seemed difficult and competitors tried some interesting things.

Dinara – fell, then caught dyno dramatically with one hand, got into volumes but fell.

Dinara going up to the volumes

Dinara going up to the volumes

Dinara trying to get her head in.

Dinara trying to get her head in.

Petra – did dyno, stylish figure 4, tried some real shenanagins on volumes, fell out of them. No finish.

Petra Klingler trying the arm bar

Petra Klingler trying the arm bar

Melanie – stuck dyno, had trouble moving up.

Katha – slipped off jump, did jump, got to high volumes, fell, back up, left hand on high volume, pressed into corner, sent!

Katha pressing into the corner at the top of final 4

Katha pressing into the corner at the top of final 4

Alex – fell off jump, then did it, fell from volumes b/c wrong hand up first, went again, went left first like Katha did, pressed pressed pressed. Sent! It looked very very close but it worked! Good job Alex!

Alex went right hand up but it worked out.

Alex went right hand up the first time. She looked strong but fell.

Alex using the correct method.

Alex using the correct method.

Alex mantling.

Alex mantling.

Backen-foot and lean across to the finish jib.

Backen-foot and lean across to the finish jib.

Shauna – tried to static jump, fell a couple times, stuck it, hiked the top even though she went up right to the top volume and that hosed everyone else who tried it. Very strong effort from Shauna.

Shauna made this look easy.

Shauna made this look easy.

Shauna pressing with style.

Shauna pressing with style.

Send!

Anna – falls off jump. If she sends this climb she wins the comp. Gets back up. Goes right to top volume, seems stuck, eventually gets hands right, stems out, finishes. She wins!

Anna finishing problem 4

Anna finishing problem 4

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Men’s Final 4

Rustam going with the swing on Men's Final 4

Rustam going with the swing at the start on Men’s Final 4

Weird moves from holds on a volume out to another huge volume with a little hold on the edge and another on the tip. Power move up left to the huge bonus blob. Rock up right to arete hold. Sit on bonus, move left to press finish.

Sachi – tried some interesting things to get out, didn’t sort it out.

Sacha Amma trying Men's Final 4

Sacha Amma trying to go backwards on Men’s Final 4

Rei – wow! Another impressive effort from Rei.

Rei staring down the arete hold at the top of MF4

Rei staring down the arete hold at the mid top of MF4

Rei figured out the bottom and then hiked carefully to last move, where he hung out for a while trying to decide what to do.

Rei trying to commit to the last move.

Rei trying to commit to the last move.

He finally committed to the dynamic move, rocked left and used his right elbow to press into the wall to keep him from barn dooring out.

Rei using the elbow

Rei using the elbow

It worked, he stuck the finish!

Rei sending Men's Final 4

Rei just after sending Men’s Final 4

Mayhaylo – went out backwards at the start but made it work!

Mahaylo feet first.

Mahaylo feet first.

Mahaylo turning around.

Mahaylo turning around.

Mahaylo looking very strong.

Mahaylo looking very strong on the one arm.

Up to bonus, stood up on arete, foot up on bonus, couldn’t figure out last move, eventually fell. No send.

Rustam – fell from the start, then worked it out, stood up high at the top, crimped wall panel, left foot to final hold, leaned over, matched, done.

Rustam crimping gaston left hand on the wall panel in his chest, left foot first to the finish. He leaned over and matched it for the win.

Rustam crimping gaston left hand on the wall panel in his chest, left foot first to the finish. He leaned over and matched it for the win.

Dmitrii – fell from start repeatedly, after powering out first moves but getting stuck moving to bonus. Doesn’t finish, and it ends this comp but he’s still overall 1st place for the season.

Dmitrii struggling with the volume.

Dmitrii struggling with the volume. He basically jumped and held the swing to the little jib, and it seemed like he was just too pumped to power to the bonus so he was trying to get there via other means, but he wasn’t able to make it work.

Thomas – If he sends he wins. The crowd is chanting for him. Unfortunately he struggles on bottom, falls repeatedly, doesn’t get through it. Silver.

Rei wins!

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Men’s Finals UPDATED

May 18, 2013 3 comments

Men’s 1

Dyno 1 arm is the show move. Stand up on start holds, jump left, basically campus to top. Everyone did it easily.

Kilian styling the dyno

Kilian styling the dyno

Dima on the bottom of 1

Dima on the bottom of 1

Jan at the top of Men's 1

Jan at the top of 1

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Men’s 2

Lots of volumes up an overhanging wall. Start with right pinch and left on arete. Move through volumes, stand up to an undercling triangle volume, grab another triangle volume, match, done.

GG on the bottom of 2

GG on the bottom of 2

Dmitrii

Dmitrii low middle on 2

Jan pushing up into the volume.

Jan pushing up into the undercling volume.

Kili using alternative beta to get up on the undercling

Kili using alternative beta to get up on the undercling

Jorg at the top of 2

Jorg at the top of 2

Sean matching the finish.

Sean matching the finish.

Jan Hojer beasted it right off (apparently actually 2nd go, he slipped 1st go). Dimitrii flashed. GG flashed. Kilian flashed. Jorg flashed too. Sean flashed.

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Men’s 3

Mantle, volumes, undercling left, drive by right hand to red triangle out left. Match onto bonus hold jib, move to jib on upper triangle, lean over to last hold.

Dmitrii on the bottom of 3

Dmitrii on the bottom of 3

Kilian getting set up for the drive by

Kilian getting set up for the drive by

GG doing the drive-by on the middle of 3

GG doing the drive-by on the middle of 3

Kilian about to fall off trying to stick the upper part of the volume.

Kilian about to fall off trying to stick the bonus hold jib on the upper part of the volume.

Sean having the same problem

Sean having the same problem. He looks good, but he doesn’t stay on.

Dmitrii matching the jib to move to the last hold.

Dmitrii did. Here he is matching the jib to move to the last hold.

Dmitrii at the top of 3

Dmitrii sticking the top of 3

Jan Hojer came out and flashed easily. Commentators are speculating the problems are too easy.

Dima started strong, climbed most of the way up, fell, fell again. Sent.

GG came out, fell on drive by. Again. Again.

Kili fell off. Again. Apparently you fall doing the move after the drive by if you don’t keep your right foot on the large yellow orb. He does the drive-by, bumps right hand off, jumps and left hand hamhock, slides off trying to stick it. Last go, same thing. Bummer.

Jorg had much the same experience as Kilian. Stuck the cross. Couldn’t stick the match.

Sean came out last. Looked strong on bottom and drive-by, fell like Jorg and Kili trying to stick the match on the volume. They do a nice jump to the bonus hold/jib on the volume, but all seemed to slip off pulling up to stick it. Sean didn’t send either, and so now the field has flipped.

Results after Men’s 3

The people who are tied below are broken up by countbacks to semis.

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 1.14.09 PM (2)

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Men’s Final 4

This problem looked pretty straightforward. Thugging on volumes up a steep wall.

Jan Hojer came out first and if he flashed he’d win. He flashed. climbed it quickly, he’d win. Apparently he fell from the start once before sending, but it didn’t show on the live feed. When he got to the top he knew he’d won, and he looked ecstatic. He wins! First gold in a Bouldering World Cup for Jan.

Jan the Champion

Jan the Champion

Dmitrii sent it 2nd go. This should keep him in silver.

Dima sending Men's 4

Dima sending Men’s 4

GG sent as well but not fast enough. He knows it, and he’s pretty disappointed as he waves to the crowd and walks off. Jorg sent, not sure how quickly. Sean sent as well but not fast enough. Kili flashed and he gets bronze.

Guillaume at the end of 4.

Guillaume at the end of 4.

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Men’s Final Results

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 2.10.18 PM

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 1.44.29 PM (2)

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (2) Jan Hojer (1) and Kilian Fischhuber (3)

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (2) Jan Hojer (1) and Kilian Fischhuber (3)

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Results

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Overall the women’s problems looked like they may have been a touch easy, as they saw many sends and attempts and count backs separated the field, but they were crowd pleasing and probably necessary as the men’s looked a bit too hard–there were only 4 tops total in the whole final. With the drama about Jakob’s ascent of problem 3, he may not get scored for that top, so really there may technically be only 3 tops in the men’s. We’ll see.

For the women Akiyo and Anna flashed everything and were separated by countbacks. Alex Puccio took 6 goes to send the 4 finals for 3rd.

Women's Podium. Anna is psyched!

Women’s Podium. Anna is psyched!

Women's Final Results

Women’s Final Results

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Men’s Final Results

Jakob got back on Final 3 and he sent. With 2 tops he wins the comp. Guillaume Glairon Mondet had 1 top, so did Dmitrii Sharafutdinov.

Men's Podium

Men’s Podium

Men's Final Results after the reclimb

Men’s Final Results after the reclimb

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New Live Scoreboard

Worth noting is that there appears to be a new style of live scoreboard at this event. The new style shows in an easy-to-visualize way how far the climbers have progressed and on which problems. Here’s what it looks like:

Sorry it's blurry. The live at-event scoreboard.

Sorry it’s blurry. The live at-event scoreboard. Green lines mean they got the bonus. Full blocks represent sends. Tries are off to the right.

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Sometime soon I’ll probably illustrate the earlier problem-by-problem posts more fully with screen shots and such, or you can just watch the live feed replays via ifsc-climbing.org.

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final 4 + Jakob on Final 3 Again

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Final Problem 4

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Women’s Final 4

First go Alex fell on the 3rd or 4th move. She got back on and climbed the boulder to the top, though it definitely looked hard and from the viewer’s perspective there was a question as to whether or not she’d fall off on nearly every move. She didn’t. Nice Alex!

Mina Markovic got up to the big orange death star / donut, squeezed her way up the arete, did some kind of kneebar to move to the top. I guess it was a flash? Nice Mina!

Katha did well on the start, then seemed to struggle moving out to the donut. She hesitated, then just skipped it, went to bonus, right toe in donut, basically just dynoed to the top. Didn’t look that hard for her. Done.

Akiyo doesn’t seem to be having as easy a time with this as she did with the last. She seems to struggle but keeps going slowly and finishes the boulder.

Anna went backwards to the first hold but matched it somehow and kept going up. She also ignored the donut for her hands, only putting a heel in it, and easily finishing for the flash and the win.

Shauna is last out. She looks strong, climbs the bottom well, probably the best anyone has done it. Up to bonus with an inside flag. Foot in the donut, up to the last holds, feet cut and she swung them around for a bit long, finally pasted right foot on, jumped, barely stuck the top but did. Flash.

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Men’s Final 4

Jernej Kruder stuck the double dyno but fell after trying to get out right to the bonus hold. Next go he got bonus via 360 backwards spin, got over on it, moved his feet over left, heel hooked, spun back around, heel hooked other foot, stuck the next hold, then fell trying to stick the big red sloper up and left. Fell there again. Done. Final score, ot, 3b.

Guillaume stuck the double dyno. Moved out right to bonus. Sitting on left heel moves up right to blue mouth sloper, sits on heel more, up left to red sloper, sticks it, jump-crosses to finish hold but falls. Again, but this time stems out to other wall, matches on red sloper, falls. Again. Can’t quite stick the last hold. Done.

Cedric climbed through the bottom easily as Guillaume had, fell where Guillaume did moving to the finish several times. Made the match on the red sloper nicely with the foot out left, but fell jumping to the last hold. No send. Gets back on. Too tired. Done.

Jakob came out and fell from the double dyno. If he finishes the problem he will win the comp. Next go he got through bonus, did a sweet vertical toe-cam, fell. Went back up, STUCK LAST MOVE! Two tops. Wins!

Thomas can’t win, but anyone who does this problem will podium, so he still has a chance at silver or bronze. We didn’t get to see all his tries as Anna was busy winning, but when they go back to him you can see him having had the bonus and falling. Didn’t finish.

Last out, Dmitrii, who, if he flashes, could actually win the comp due to the:

Surprise Drama

The announcer just came on saying that Jakob’s start position for problem 3 has been deemed illegal so that top was taken away from him. They’re going to make him try to re-climb problem 3 and if he doesn’t do it he may not win. The Austrian coach is NOT HAPPY.

So Dmitrii has his turn. Not sure if he knows about the situation with the scores and Jakob. He flashes to the last move and falls. Dmitrii goes back up, is climbing the bottom easily. Matching the red sloper easily. Jumps to the end and finishes. He is in 3rd at the least. Podium!

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Jakob last go on Final Problem 3

So Jakob has to climb again. This problem looks super hard and it is disappointing for everyone I expect that he has to climb it again, but he does, so everyone is waiting around for that to happen. It goes, he sends! He wins!!!

Jakob after climbing Problem 3 for his second time.

Jakob after climbing Problem 3 for his second time.

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Problem 3

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Final Problems 3

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Women’s Final 3

Alex Puccio came out strong, flashed the problem seemingly easily.

Mina fell off part way up. Got back on. The holds looked like pretty bad sloper pinches with a bit of a fonty texture. Fell going for last move. Got back up there. Fell again. So close, fell again at the last move.

Katha fell at the bottom some. Seems to be have trouble sticking the bonus. I didn’t see her stick it.

The head setter Percey came out with a ladder and brushed the hold at the top, the 2nd to last hold on the problem, which Mina had seemed to have so much trouble holding onto to do the last move.

Akiyo flashed pretty easily. She got that last hold Percey brushed with one hand and pretty much one-armed to the top. It looked great, but it was kinda weird how easily she did it and how much trouble Mina was having on the same hold. Akiyo is redic strong though so it’s hard to say, but I can’t recall ever seeing a head setter come out with a ladder and brush a hold mid-comp before.

Anna flashed easily. She didn’t do the last move as easily as Akiyo had, but she did it easily enough.

Shauna seems to be climbing really carefully, trying not to fall off. She static-ed nearly every move, climbing in control and slowly slowly slowly. She locked off the last move casually. Flash.

Women's Results after Final 3

Women’s Results after Final 3

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Men’s Final 3

Kruder came out, looked at the problem for a while. Finally stepped off the ground, really seemed to be struggling but also trying hard not to fall off. Fell off. Tried a few different things, but kept falling. Pretty sure he didn’t even get bonus point.

Guillaume came out next, looked to be struggling as well. Fell where Jernej did. Then fell at start. Fell more. Ugh.

Cedric managed to get his left hand over instead of his right on the orange hold, letting him press out and stick, then match the bonus. The bonus is that EP teardrop volume, which apparently called the “Jiu-Jitsu hold” and was designed by well-known coursesetter Laurent LaPorte. Cedric got through the bottom again, seems to really be struggling working his way around the volume. Fell.

Jakob looked good, then dropped suddenly before bonus, looking like he twinged his shoulder a bit. Got back on, fell again. Fell a bunch more. Finally pressed out like Cedric did and got bonus. The live feed announcer said go right, and it made no sense to anyone, but Jakob actually did go right, gastoning the top of the volume. From there he lurched to a left hand crimp, came out quite a bit but stuck, and finished the problem! It was only the 2nd men’s top in the entire comp so far. He was very psyched, as was the hometown crowd.

Thomas flashed to press on the bonus, then fell. Did the bottom again, it looks pretty easy for him, but he falls moving into the volume again. Fell a bunch, no success.

Dmitrii managed bonus, matched bonus, left hand up (like Cedric was trying), moved his foot up, fell. Fell again. Lots of times. No send.

Men's Results after Final 3

Men’s Results after Final 3

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Screenshots to come later. For now, Problem 4!

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Problem 2

April 27, 2013 1 comment
FInals #2 are the two problems on the left.

FInals #2 are the two problems being brushed on the left. Men’s is the slab, women’s is the overhanging power bloc.

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Women’s 2

Alex Puccio pressed up into the corner on the boss-looking slopers, got up over the lip, stuck what looked like a hard move over the lip to a crimp, foot up, pressed into an orange sidepull, lurched smoothly right hand to the finish hold. I thought it was her 2nd flash but the announcer says she did it 2nd go so I guess she must have fallen at the bottom once, or he is wrong.

Mina pressed through the bottom, then fell jumping over the bulge to the second orange crimp when she didn’t quite hit the hold right. The move looked hard for Alex as well. Next go she showed off her famous flexibility, heel hooked over her hand, rocked up, and static-ed the move. For the last move she went out to the arete (as the announcer suggested), came back, went back out, tried a high heel, rocked over, couldn’t quite get her hand to the finish hold, tried again, slipped off, done. It was a great effort and too bad she didn’t finish.

Katha came out, and the feed froze. So…suck. Not sure what is happening. The feed came back but I’m not sure what happened except Katha didn’t make the top.

Akiyo looked a little confused at the start, trying different positions before committing to leave the ground. When she did she got into the roof holds smoothly, stuck the jump to the crimp, made her way up to the top, toehooked left on arete, crossed to finish. Flash.

Anna got through the bottom, stuck the difficult crimp, went out to the arete, tried heel like Mina had, then went back and jumped to finish left hand, sticks, flash, back in 1st.

Shauna looked to be struggling getting out to the blobs, then got on them and looked good, then fell moving up to the first orange crimp over the lip. Fell again. Fell on slopers, seemed to be really struggling more with them than any other competitor thus far has. Got back out on them.  Fell again. No top.

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Men’s 2

The only slab in finals.

Jernej Kruder climbed the bottom ok but fell trying to stick the bonus hold.

Guillaume getting in position for bonus on Men's Final 2.

Guillaume getting in position for bonus on Men’s Final 2.

Guillaume used a different method and managed to balance his way to the bonus hold with a toehook. It looked like a fair amount of smear-campusing but he wasn’t quite able to stick the finish. Next go he again got through the bottom, left foot on light green triangle, finished! 1t2

Cedric slipped off the bottom, and then the feed froze. When it came back he was past bonus but I don’t think he finished.

Jakob flashed to bonus with his left hand, then came back down to move his body around and try to continue climbing. He slipped off.

Thomas comes from a different direction, heel hooking to go right hand to bonus, but he can’t get out of the position and falls. Again same thing. 3rd time same thing, he doesn’t seem to be learning from his positional difficulties once he’s got bonus, and since he’s already scored for it it’d be good to try something else probably. Fell again. Seemed to figure it out, went left to bonus and was leaning out right, fell, out of time. Done.

Dmitrii tried to get his balance but fell before getting bonus. Kept falling off. Tried for bonus both hands, as far as I saw couldn’t stick it.

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I will probably add screen shots later to illustrate, but this is live, so this is what I have time to post now.

World Cup Millau – Problem 4 + Unofficial Final Results

April 6, 2013 1 comment

Women’s Problem 4

I didn’t catch the proposed grade.

Anna at the top of 4

Anna at the top of 4

Anna flashed? I thought 2nd go. Owned it though.

Katha sticks double dyno, falls moving off it. No bonus.

Jule gets up to bonus, falls on next move. Gets up again, falls again. No top.

Jule moving up off the bonus just before falling.

Jule moving up after getting bonus and just before falling.

Akiyo fell 1st go. 2nd go up to bonus, struggling with beta, bumps, tries to bump in, falls. Does it again, falls from next move. Done, no top.

Akiyo on prob 4 after grabbing bonus and bumping off it.

Akiyo on prob 4 after grabbing bonus and bumping off it.

If Shauna flashes she wins. She falls on the double dyno, not going to get gold, may get silver if she tops. If she tops 2nd go she’d tie Anna. Fell again. Now can only get silver max. Sticks the dyno 3rd go. Finishes the boulder. Top! Silver!

Shauna doing the right beta at the top.

Shauna doing the right beta at the top.

Shauna at the top!

Shauna at the top!

Puccio came out last, hiked the problem.

Alex doing the cross at the top of 4.

Alex doing the cross at the top of 4.

Alex at the top of 4.

Alex at the final hold on final 4.

Here are the UNOFFICIAL (i.e. pre appeals period) results from Millau for women:

Unofficial Results

Unofficial Results

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Men’s Problem 4

7B+/C

(but the announcer said more straightforward/easier than the last one)

Lucas came out and climbed up high, got bonus, but fell. Then he struggled.

Kilian heel hooking on the bonus hold.

Kilian heel hooking on the bonus hold.

Kilian came out strong, got bonus, fell moving up right to another volume. If he sends he wins. If not, and if someone else does, they could win. Very exciting. Kilian got back up, used a slightly better method, fell again.

Kilian using a good method to get across the volume.

Kilian using a good method to get across the volume.

Back again, does this double knee crouch thing, shifts right, grabs the top. Sends! Wins!

Kilian sending 4 and winning the comp.

Kilian sending 4 and winning the comp.

Guillaume got bonus first go. Fell above, as Kilian did, wrestling with the volumes. Didn’t finish.

Guillaume trying something different.

Guillaume trying something different.

Rustam came out next, looked good, did the problem 2nd go for his only send in Finals.

Rustam manhandling the volumes.

Rustam manhandling the volumes.

Rustam sending 4

Rustam sending 4

Jorg got very high but didn't finish.

Jorg got very high but didn’t finish.

Dmitrii got very high as well and also did not finish.

Dmitrii got very high as well and also did not finish.

UNOFFICIAL (before appeals) Men’s Results

UNOFFICIAL Results

UNOFFICIAL Results

 

2012 IFSC World Championships – Men’s Bouldering

September 15, 2012 Leave a comment

Kilian (2nd), Dmitrii (1st), Rustam (3rd)

The stage, the crowd, and the walls all looked incredible at this event.  Dmitrii is World Champion, Kilian won silver, and Rustam Bronze. The other three finalists were Canada’s Sean McColl, Germany’s Jan Hojer, and Japan’s Rei Sugimoto.

Here are some random shots and info from finals:

Men’s 1

Everybody flashed but Dmitrii, who flashed to bonus, then fell 3 times before getting top on his 4th go. This put him in last going into problem 2.

Men’s 2

Killian flashed, putting him in the lead. Sean got bonus and sent 2nd go, putting him in 2nd. If you get to the top without touching bonus you still get bonus points. Dmitrii got bonus and finished the problem 3rd go, giving him 1 send to match everyone else’s performance on men’s 1. Jan flashed to bonus but didn’t finish the problem. Rei and Rustam didn’t even get bonus.

Kilian flashing Men’s 2

Jan Hojer on Men’s 2. Looked good, then fell apart a second later.

Men’s 3

Mantle to difficult movement out right to bonus. Dmitrii took a brave tactic and flashed. Rustam got bonus and sent 2nd go. Nobody else really got anywhere, all falling on the rightward move to the bonus hold.

Rei Sugimoto struggling with the transition on Men’s 3

Rustam on the start mantle of Men’s 3

Rustam working his way around this cruxy corner on Men’s 3. These moves really shut the climbers down.

Rustam on Men’s 3. Not a great shot but LOOK AT HIS LEFT ARM!

Dmitrii leaning right…

Dmitrii leaned, leaned, and then sort of deadpointed right hand to the bonus hold while flipping left. He caught himself and sent for the flash.

Sean suffered here and didn’t make it to bonus.

Killian took a different tactic, but it still didn’t work.

Jan Hojer also suffered on this one.

Men’s 4

This problem was on the far right wall and was supposed to be fairly easy compared to the previous two. It certainly seemed to be the case as everyone sent, Dmitrii, Kilian, Rustam, and Jan flashing, Sean getting bonsus and send 2nd go, and Rei flashing to bonus but then falling and also sending 2nd go.

Rei flashed to bonus, then fell, then got back on and sent.

Rustam manhandling the volume.

Dmitrii sticking the move out left the same way Rustam did. This seemed to be the hardest move on the problem.

Sean McColl and wow look at the walls!

Sean after sending. He knew he didn’t win but he stayed a good sport for the crowd. Which is huge. Look at that crowd!

Kilian

Kilian finishing.

Jan Hojer and…crowd!

Jan

The End

All the competitors stood for the crowd. As they were going back behind the wall, Dmitrii’s girlfriend ran in and jumped on him. It was just like a sports movie. : )

Men’s Bouldering Finalists

Wow.

Dmitrii and his girlfriend

The Walls

Final Results

Next Up

Men’s paraclimbing, Blind 1 Division finals was up next and we watched 3 blind guys climb as far as they could up a 7B+ route with an assistant shouting (or using a headset and walkie talkie) to help them find their way. More on that in the next post.

Really the thing to do is to watch these live or watch the replays.  Go here: IFSC World Climbing Championships 2012

Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Problems 1 & 2

April 28, 2012 2 comments

More coverage for Men’s 3 and 4, Men’s podiums, all Women’s finals and podiums, semifinals, and qualifiers can be found via links at the bottom of this article.

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Men’s 1

Kilian Fischhuber came out first and climbed easily to the bonus hold, then fell bumping out left on it through the sea of orange triangles.

Kilian pressed the bonus hold easily as he did the mantle.

Next go he again climbed easily to the bonus and slipped off in the same place. 3rd go was the same. 4th and 5th he slipped off trying a double dyno for the opposing triangle volumes out left.

Kilian trying to double dyno to use the two triangles as double gastons. It didn't work.

Rustam came next and climbed easily to the bonus but, like Kilian, slipped off trying to move on from there. It seems this problem is very delicate and any balance mistake means the climber is right off. 2nd go was a similar situation, he fell again by slipping off the early volumes. Next go he got up and kept his balance, moving slowly right on a foot perch through the triangle volumes and to the finish of the the boulder.

Starting down the road to success.

Rustam matched this small triangle to move out right.

Good position on the gastons.

A nice controlled cross to the finish.

Success for Rustam.

Jeremy Bonder came out next. I don’t know that I’ve ever seen this guy before but he is crushing at this comp. 1st go he jumped right on the wall and moved through the bonus hold and out right, then slipped off trying to move his other hand and body out right to catch up with his right hand. 3rd go was the same, he got his right hand out right but couldn’t get his other hand or feet over before slipping. Next go he did it again, but this time he quickly got his feet up and looked in better position to move out right with the match. Unfortunately instead of matching he again moved his right hand out way right and couldn’t hold the next volume as a gaston–he was too extended. He got back on the wall one more time, made his extended gaston work, got his feet back up, matched, moved right, and finished the boulder! Amazing.

High right foot to push into this gaston.

Match.

Good position.

Great success.

Tito (Thomas Caleyron) came out next and looked good moving up through the bonus and out right before suddenly slipping off. 2nd go he got even farther out right but with his feet low he slipped matching his left hand in to the left little triangle. Last go he had the same problem and fell in the same place.

Moving out right. A high foot probably would have helped.

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov came next. Dmitrii did very well last year and is a regular finalist. He is also currently ranked 1st in the world. For this first final he came out and stood up on the first volume, then fell matching it. I’m not sure that he touched the bonus hold on his way by–hopefully he did or it may come back to harm him. 2nd go he definitely pressed against the bonus hold, then fell again trying to stand up and balance. 3rd go he seemed in better position to move right but slipped. 4th go? I think this is 4th go. He again slipped at the bottom. 5th go was the same.

Dmitrii was pretty much stuck here the whole time.

Rei Sugimoto came out last. First go he slipped off the first move. Second go he was more careful and stood up to the bonus hold, then trying to move out right didn’t get his right foot up and fell. The feed cut out so I’m not sure how the next go went, but then he fell again trying to move around the bonus volume and out right. He fell again at least once, then somehow magically stuck the holds out right, got his foot up, and levitated his way to the finish.

About to start levitating.

Feet?

Levitation Station

Rei with one hand on the finish. He matched and got the send.

~

Men’s 2

Kilian came out and hiked the problem, confidently throwing through the cross double-dyno and celebrating at the top.

Kilian dominating the bottom of the problem.

Got the undercling, ready for the dyno.

Caught the dyno, ready to move up

Kilian at the finish after the flash

Rustam came out and climbed to the cross-dyno, but tried to go with only one hand and didn’t have enough height to stick the sloper. Kilian’s method looks to be the best as the holds are slopey pinches and using them in opposition is probably the best way to stick them.

Rustam engaging on the left hand sloper. He quickly matched right and kept going for the 2nd go send.

Next go Rustam jumped a little harder and easily stuck the dyno one-two and finished the problem, doing a 1 arm pull up on the last hold, perhaps to apologize for having messed up the problem on his first go.

Rustam at the finish.

Jeremy came out and slipped off the first move. He didn’t seem to even grab the hold, just put his hand on it and slid off. 2nd go he again fell off the move. He fell there again, and a fourth time he stuck it for a second and then fell. Fifth go he got up a little better and stuck the hold, matched it, kept it as his feet cut and helicoptered, then fell doing the big move to the bonus hold. Next go he got up there again and nearly stuck the bonus hold but didn’t get quite high enough. With 10 seconds left he got back on the wall, did the first move again, and fell grabbing the bonus again without scoring for it.

Jeremy struggled with this move for a long time and then struggled with the next move as well.

Not quite sticking the bonus.

Tito came next and also slipped off the first hold. Next go he got through the first move, stuck the bonus, committed to the double cross dyno, and finished the problem.

Tito catching the double dyno for a 2nd go send.

Dmitrii came out and after tentatively moving though the first move flashed the problem. Most interesting was his catch of the double dyno–he used the right arete of the wall for his right hand catch instead of the right hand hold.

He went one-two, left to hold, right to arete. Sadly I don't have a shot of him catching it.

Once he stopped the swing he stood up and finished the boulder.

Looking casual on the last move

Dmitrii at the top

Rei came out and climbed through the bottom well, though the move to the bonus looked very long for him. He stuck the undercling out right but fell on the cross dyno after not quite jumping high enough and bringing both hands up. The fall was unexpected and awkward and the announcers said he seems to have tweaked his right ankle a bit. He kept trying to gear up for the next go and then backing off, preparing himself 100% to try and send. He got back on, climbed again to the dyno, and again fell trying to catch it. He’s got a physio looking at his right ankle, which he seems to have tweaked. Instead of climbing again he is sitting down letting the physio work on his ankle, and his time ran out. He seemed to be mostly ok as he walked off the mat.

The move to the bonus hold was quite long but Rei managed it.

Setting up for the jump

Rei not quite sticking the double dyno. He just didn't seem quite high enough to engage the left hand. It was this fall that tweaked his ankle the first time he took it, but he got back up here and fell in the same place again.

Use the links below to see Finals 3 & 4 and the final results for men in Vienna as well as Women’s Finals and all categories qualifiers and semis.

~

Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Women’s Finals – Intro & Problems 1 & 2

Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Women’s Finals – Problems 3 & 4 + Podium!

Men’s Finals 3 & 4 and Podiums

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