Munich Final Results
Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!
Munich Men’s Final Results
This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.
Season Overall Podiums
Women’s Final 1
This problem looked really balancy, and nearly everyone fell at least once, often many times. The top looked particularly challenging as it was necessary to press off a low foot and do some hand maneuvering, then get a high right foot and rock up onto it while pulling on the small holds and volume to the finish.
Dinara Fakhritdinova – bonus
Petra Klingler – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top
Melanie Sandoz – flash
Katha Saurwein – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top
Alex Puccio – flash to bonus, fell. didn’t finish
Shauna Coxsey – falling, bonus, not sure her highpoint
Anna Stöhr – falling, bonus…
After Anna fell off the bottom a few more times she got back up, instead of matching put right on gaston, left into the undercling she’s trying to match on in the pic above, right to volume, grabbed the top! Only the 2nd send of the boulder and it puts her in 2nd as Melanie flashed.
Men’s Final 1
Sachi Amma – 0
Rei Sugimoto – 0
Mykhaylo Shalagin – 0
Rustam Gelmanov – 0
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov – 0
Thomas Tauporn – 0
Women’s Final 2
The announcers said they thought you were supposed to go to the left side of the volume, but the girls jumped straight up one two left and then right to the high right dish. From there left hand flip to catch the swing (Dinara didn’t flip), then squeeze left on the volume/bonus, left again to undercling, high feet, stand up to finish.
Dinara – flash
Petra – falling, does sweet jump with left hand flip for the catch, finishes the problem with 2 knees and a heel hook.
Melanie – falls, bonus, falls, no send. Keeps falling trying to get left hand to upper left undercling for last move.
Katha – eventual send
Alex – flash
Shauna – flash
Anna – flash
Men’s Final 2
Blobs, arete, press into an volume, move around the volume to the finish.
Sachi – bonus
Rei – scroll down:
Mykhaylo – no top, bonus?
Rustam – looked good, got bonus, fell getting feet up. Falls again, calls to crowd for support, falls again, Heel blows, falls again.
Dmitrii – sends 2nd go and in 1st now.
Thomas – sends! Several goes. In 2nd now.
Rei is now in 3rd.
Semis happened in the middle of the night, so I didn’t watch them. You can watch the replay here:
Watch the Semifinals Replay
Scroll down a little more for semi results…
Just so I didn’t ruin it for you.
Women’s Semi Results
A four-way tie for 4th means 7 women go to finals. Here’s the rest of the semis field:
UPDATE – Apparently Melissa Le Neve and Akiyo Noguchi were both denied a problem because both used a finger in a bolt hole on the wall, which is not allowed.
Men’s Semi Results
Apparently Kilian, who dominated qualifiers, slipped here and didn’t make finals. Here are the results for the rest of the men’s semifinal field.
Finals coverage on the way!
In addition to Kasia, for women Team USA had Meagan Martin (45th, 2 bonus holds in 5 attempts) and Alex Puccio, who, well, see the semis field in the top 20 qualifiers:
Puccio did ‘em all and nearly flashed ‘em all. Akiyo finished them all as well but in 14 tries. The problems looked pretty hard from the bit of women’s qualis I saw. I didn’t see men’s qualis at all. Perhaps most surprising is Anna Stöhr barely making semis–she’s already won the overall with 1st in nearly every event so far this year. She’s spent the WC break climbing outside and just recently returned from a successful trip to Rocklands where she climbed two more 8B (V13) boulder problems.
It’s nice to see Shauna Coxsey also at the top of the heap–last year Coxsey broke her leg during the WC break and was unable to compete in Munich. She’s had a good year so far and on her visit to Colorado in June did her first V13 with Nuthin’ but Sunshine in RMNP. Watch that here: Shauna Coxsey – Nuthin’ but Sunshine V13 on Vimeo
The field looks strong and tomorrow’s semis should be fun to watch.
I didn’t get to watch these but clearly Kilian is in top form here with the only 5 sends in the men’s quali. Sean McColl also looks to be climbing well, and mixed among familiar names like Thomas Tauporn, Jan Hojer, Jernej Kruder, and Dmitrii Sharafutdinov are the return of German Jonas Baumann and a bit of a surprise visit from Chris Webb-Parsons who is strong as all get out but usually not the best competitor. Baumann won in Vail a few years ago and Webb-Parsons made finals there but neither has been having a particularly good last two seasons, so it’s nice to see them back.
Stay tuned for semis and finals tomorrow!
There was one set of 5 boulders for qualifiers for the entire women’s field.
Part of the way through qualis the announcers said it started to get a lot hotter in the venue. That probably made what looked like a difficult set of problems feel even more difficult.
Later when they interviewed Alex Puccio she said it was really hot while climbing, there were no fans, and the volumes were really hard to hold on to because your hands got quite sweaty. She suggests fans for the boulder problems for tomorrow to help the problems stay cooler. She also said the crowd is fantastic, loud and enthusiastic, and the last Canadian World Cup was just as loud and enthused.
Women’s Quali 1
A short balancy problem starting on a purple volume. Step across a shallow wide corner to another purple volume, lean over or lurch to a left orange gaston and a right press on a large Teknik blob, feet over, right foot up onto another teknik blob or heelhook on the big one, higher right hand available (looked pretty bad, for balance only) stand up on the large blob to match the finish hold in the roof in an overhead press.
Most of the stronger competitors that we watched hiked this one or hesitated and then got through it. As the round progressed people began to have trouble finishing this but, appropriately, it still got done the most of the qualifiers.
Women’s Quali 2
Steep up an arete. The commentators said this one would be the hardest of the lot, but it didn’t prove to be true. Start under the left side of a roof on purple jug with feet on the sidewall, gaston right in roof, left pinch or sidepull in roof, lurch over the angle change to the bonus hold on the headwall, a slopy looking orange pinch. Lurch left around the arete to a large blue Revolution volcano.
Thuggy move up left to side pull around arete, up right to hold on a green triangle volume.
Up left hand first to top hold which is directly above the volume so you have to move up and around the arete to get to it.
Seemed like you could either heelhook lock these moves or pogo or jump through them.
Most of the top competitors did this easily, but Jule Wurm had trouble working with the bonus hold and she didn’t end up finishing.
Women’s Quali 3
Start on the other side of the roof from Quali 2, looked jumpy and powerful. Holds on a volume, a few in the roof…
…turn around, bicycle feet, power move to a jug on the bottom of another volume…
…cross to a jug undercling also on the volume, jump to a sloper on the headwall. This move looked cruxy.
Feet on the volume jugs, balance up through two smaller holds to the finish.
Looked like a leg press for the last move and balance to match it.
This problem looked similar to #2 in terms of how competitors were doing on it. All the strongest hiked it, except Jule, who didn’t finish it.
Women’s Quali 4
Big purple volumes on a roof. Start, move up to a blue diamond sloper pinch and left to another volume. Match other volume, shift up on it until you get bonus, a jib screwed to the top corner of the volume.
Up to a hold on another little triangle volume.
Jib on a circle volume.
Thug jump to finish.
This one proved to be the most difficult of the lot. Anna Stöhr came out and didn’t even make bonus despite lots of effort. Akiyo Noguchi came out next and hiked it. She pressed thorough the bottom easily by matching the blue diamond, dropping down to the 2nd big volume, matching, flipping a hand to a reverse hamhock, changed to a shuffle up the volume, reached over to the bonus, then up to the higher volumes. It didn’t even look like she actually grabbed the last hold, but she stuck it somehow, swung out on it casually, came back in, matched, done. Puccio didn’t get bonus, unless they counted her touching it with her foot. She put in a lot of good efforts but couldn’t solve the bottom. Jule Wurm made bonus, then didn’t get the next hold. Shauna Coxsey didn’t get anywhere. Momoka Oda looked good to bonus, didn’t finish. Melissa Le Neve also managed this one. Katha got bonus. Besides them I didn’t see anyone else really get anywhere on it.
Women’s Quali 5
Farthest right on the wall. Large green volume with holds on it to start. Up to two large orange slopers that I can’t identify for make.
Cross to the bonus hold – a sloper on a large purple volume. Match, up to another sloper on a purple triangle volume. Step up and lurch or power to lip.
Shift along lip to finish spot. Match.
Anna fell from the top, then finished. Alex Puccio hiked this, doing the top really easily by shifting along the lip to the finish instead of just jumping for the finish spot.
Women’s Quali Results
Not sure where Akiyo fell, but she only fell once and she finished everything for first place with 5 tops 6 tries, 5 tops 5 tries.
Next up was Melissa Le Neve with 5 tops 9 tries, 5 bonus 8 tries.
Shauna and Puccio tied for 3rd with 4 flashes each. Neither made any headway on problem 4 so no score for that one.
Anna Stöhr’s fall at the top of problem 5 puts her in 5th here with 4 tops, 5 tries.
Interesting about this round – the 12th place to 20th place competitors made semifinals with only a single top in qualis. Not sure if this means qualis were too hard, or the field just wasn’t deep enough, as the top competitors were all fairly close together (minus problem 4).
The heat was probably big factor as there looked to be a lot of sloper and volume climbing here and when it is hot those types of holds often feel impossible.
Nice job to Sierra and Megan for squeaking through in 19th and 20th places!
Men’s qualis start at 4pm Toronto time.
Women’s Qualifiers are running live right now!
Visit ifsc-climbing.org to see the current results.
Stay tuned for updates, problem discussions, and results here on The Spot Setting Blog!
Dyno 1 arm is the show move. Stand up on start holds, jump left, basically campus to top. Everyone did it easily.
Lots of volumes up an overhanging wall. Start with right pinch and left on arete. Move through volumes, stand up to an undercling triangle volume, grab another triangle volume, match, done.
Jan Hojer beasted it right off (apparently actually 2nd go, he slipped 1st go). Dimitrii flashed. GG flashed. Kilian flashed. Jorg flashed too. Sean flashed.
Mantle, volumes, undercling left, drive by right hand to red triangle out left. Match onto bonus hold jib, move to jib on upper triangle, lean over to last hold.
Jan Hojer came out and flashed easily. Commentators are speculating the problems are too easy.
Dima started strong, climbed most of the way up, fell, fell again. Sent.
GG came out, fell on drive by. Again. Again.
Kili fell off. Again. Apparently you fall doing the move after the drive by if you don’t keep your right foot on the large yellow orb. He does the drive-by, bumps right hand off, jumps and left hand hamhock, slides off trying to stick it. Last go, same thing. Bummer.
Jorg had much the same experience as Kilian. Stuck the cross. Couldn’t stick the match.
Sean came out last. Looked strong on bottom and drive-by, fell like Jorg and Kili trying to stick the match on the volume. They do a nice jump to the bonus hold/jib on the volume, but all seemed to slip off pulling up to stick it. Sean didn’t send either, and so now the field has flipped.
Results after Men’s 3
The people who are tied below are broken up by countbacks to semis.
Men’s Final 4
This problem looked pretty straightforward. Thugging on volumes up a steep wall.
Jan Hojer came out first and if he
flashed he’d win. He flashed. climbed it quickly, he’d win. Apparently he fell from the start once before sending, but it didn’t show on the live feed. When he got to the top he knew he’d won, and he looked ecstatic. He wins! First gold in a Bouldering World Cup for Jan.
Dmitrii sent it 2nd go. This should keep him in silver.
GG sent as well but not fast enough. He knows it, and he’s pretty disappointed as he waves to the crowd and walks off. Jorg sent, not sure how quickly. Sean sent as well but not fast enough. Kili flashed and he gets bronze.
Men’s Final Results
Akiyo Noguchi came out first and fell a bunch of times trying to stick the start jump. Finally she stuck it and finished the boulder.
Melissa Le Neve also fell on the start several times. She stuck it and time ran out so if she fell she was done, she matched bonus and moved left to the higher large red 1/2 saucer volume. Her right hand blew off the bonus but she hung the saucer left handed one arm. She got swung her feet back on and finished, laughing at herself.
Start by mantling up on the teardrop volume. Jump left to sidepull and feet landing on volume. Balance straight up on high foot. Match left hand/foot. Stand up. Jump to finish.
Momoko Oda came out next and did the mantle straight off but couldn’t seem to do the sideways jump. It looked like she was going to smash into the landing volume. Then, all of a sudden, on her last go, she stuck the side jump, stood up, didn’t even bother with the bonus box (a taped box on the wall) and stood up to the finish.
Aya got through the beginning 1st go, then fell working her way up the slab. Next go (I think?) she solved the slab and sent.
Anna came out last. She flashed the bottom but as she started up the slab she bobbled the jib. She caught herself, bobbled again, caught herself, bobbled again, turned around to get the crowd to cheer for her, moved up the slab, went to the last hold right hand instead of left like everyone else. Grabbed it, then slipped and fell off! She looked very stressed. Next go she bobbled the slab again, caught herself again, got back up and went right again to the top and this time stuck it. 2nd go.
Triangle volumes up a vertical or just overhanging wall.
Akiyo climbed up to bonus pretty casually, then fell moving to the last hold, coming up just short. Bonus is a triangle volume with another triangle volume on the bottom of it. Undercling to the last move. She fell there again. Didn’t finish.
Jule looked strong through the bottom into the bonus, then didn’t try to undercling and ended up falling off. Next go she didn’t use the undercling either, but it worked, cause she sent! Only send so far.
Aya climbed up to the bonus as well, then struggled trying to figure out how to get to the last hold. She falls. Done.
Anna came out, climbed through the bottom, used the undercling on the bonus, flashed! She was clearly psyched.
If Jule flashes she will win. She flashes. She wins! Her first gold!
Aya climbs through the bottom easily, then falls trying to stand up on the arete. She falls some more.
Anna hikes the boulder. She’s got silver, a proud finish.
Women’s Final Results
Women’s Quali 1
The first problem for each quali group (the rightmost two problems in the picture above) were identical or nearly identical. You can see Melissa Le Neve of group B in the middle of one of them.
Women’s Quali 2
The second problems were quite different. On the far left is Alex Puccio on Group B Problem 2. The problem was balancy and technical but it got done and Alex was one of the girls who sent it.
In the middle of the photo above is Shauna Coxsey on Group A Problem 2. This problem looked very balancy as well and the bottom was ok but the last two moves were causing some major issues. Shauna fell at the very top, Anna Stöhr just a tad lower. I didn’t watch all of qualis but I didn’t see anyone send it, and only one climber in Group B had 5 tops, so I’m guessing she was the only person to finish this one. That climber was Olga Iakovlena of Russia, and I don’t know anything about her but so far this season she took 7th last event in Kitzbühel, 16th in Millau, and 14th in Chongqing. She got 2nd at the 2012 World Championships in Paris, so clearly she is a competitor to keep an eye on.
Women’s Quali 3
These looked a bit easier, and were quickly dispatched by some of the strongest girls. Anna Stöhr is on the left on A3, Akiyo Noguchi on the right on B3. Both sent.
Women’s Quali 4
Alex is on B4, Shauna is on A4. On B4, which looked powerful, Alex hiked to this point, then fell from the last move. She then fell from the last move again, then off the bottom a couple of times in the last seconds. She looked to be having friction issues. She didn’t finish this one, but she did the other 4 and goes into Semis tied for 6th. Shauna sent.
Women’s Quali 5
Again, fairly different. Both got done.
Women’s Quali Results
Top 20 go to semifinals. I’m posting them all though to save you the trouble of the IFSC’s website cause I can’t find a permalink.
Some strong climbers who have been doing well this season are out including Swiss climber Petra Klingler, who qualified first in Kitzbuhel.
Watch the Qualifiers replay here:
Overall the women’s problems looked like they may have been a touch easy, as they saw many sends and attempts and count backs separated the field, but they were crowd pleasing and probably necessary as the men’s looked a bit too hard–there were only 4 tops total in the whole final. With the drama about Jakob’s ascent of problem 3, he may not get scored for that top, so really there may technically be only 3 tops in the men’s. We’ll see.
For the women Akiyo and Anna flashed everything and were separated by countbacks. Alex Puccio took 6 goes to send the 4 finals for 3rd.
Men’s Final Results
Jakob got back on Final 3 and he sent. With 2 tops he wins the comp. Guillaume Glairon Mondet had 1 top, so did Dmitrii Sharafutdinov.
New Live Scoreboard
Worth noting is that there appears to be a new style of live scoreboard at this event. The new style shows in an easy-to-visualize way how far the climbers have progressed and on which problems. Here’s what it looks like:
Sometime soon I’ll probably illustrate the earlier problem-by-problem posts more fully with screen shots and such, or you can just watch the live feed replays via ifsc-climbing.org.