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IFSC Bouldering World Cup #8 – Munich – Finals Problems 1 & 2

August 25, 2013 1 comment
Petra Klinger of Switzerland not quite finishing WF1

Petra Klingler of Switzerland not quite finishing WF1

Women’s Final 1

This problem looked really balancy, and nearly everyone fell at least once, often many times. The top looked particularly challenging as it was necessary to press off a low foot and do some hand maneuvering, then get a high right foot and rock up onto it while pulling on the small holds and volume to the finish.

Dinara Fakhritdinova – bonus

Petra Klingler – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top

Melanie Sandoz – flash

Katha Saurwein – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top

Alex Puccio – flash to bonus, fell. didn’t finish

Shauna Coxsey – falling, bonus, not sure her highpoint

Anna Stöhr – falling, bonus…

Anna Stöhr trying to figure out the top of WF1.

Anna Stöhr trying to figure out the top of WF1. She slipped right after this.

After Anna fell off the bottom a few more times she got back up, instead of matching put right on gaston, left into the undercling she’s trying to match on in the pic above, right to volume, grabbed the top! Only the 2nd send of the boulder and it puts her in 2nd as Melanie flashed.

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Men’s Final 1

Sachi Amma of Japan showing off the only 2 moves of MF1 that anyone did.

Sachi Amma of Japan showing off the only 2 moves of MF1 that anyone did. No one could stick the jump to the red eyebrow out right. Everything just looked too slippery.

Sachi Amma – 0

Rei Sugimoto – 0

Mykhaylo Shalagin – 0

Rustam Gelmanov – 0

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov – 0

Thomas Tauporn – 0

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Women’s Final 2

Dinara flashing WF2

Dinara flashing WF2 with her own method.

The announcers said they thought you were supposed to go to the left side of the volume, but the girls jumped straight up one two left and then right to the high right dish. From there left hand flip to catch the swing (Dinara didn’t flip), then squeeze left on the volume/bonus, left again to undercling, high feet, stand up to finish.

Dinara – flash

Petra – falling, does sweet jump with left hand flip for the catch, finishes the problem with 2 knees and a heel hook.

Petra heel hooking to the top.

Petra heel hooking to the top.

Melanie – falls, bonus, falls, no send. Keeps falling trying to get left hand to upper left undercling for last move.

Katha – eventual send

Alex – flash

Shauna – flash

Anna – flash

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Men’s Final 2

Blobs, arete, press into an volume, move around the volume to the finish.

Sachi – bonus

Rei – scroll down:

Rei at the start of MF2

Rei at the start of MF2

Rei Sugimoto working into the top volume.

Rei Sugimoto working into the top volume.

Rei pressing into the volume. He moved slowly and precisely so he wouldn't fall.

Rei pressing into the volume. He moved slowly and precisely so he wouldn’t fall.

Rei clinging to the volume as he reaches left for the final hold.

Rei clinging to the volume as he reaches left for the final hold.

Rei makes the first top in the men's round.

Rei makes the first top in the men’s round.

Mykhaylo – no top, bonus?

Rustam – looked good, got bonus, fell getting feet up. Falls again, calls to crowd for support, falls again, Heel blows, falls again.

Dmitrii – sends 2nd go and in 1st now.

Thomas – sends! Several goes. In 2nd now.

Rei is now in 3rd.

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IFSC Bouldering World Cup #8 – Munich – Semifinals Results

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Semis happened in the middle of the night, so I didn’t watch them. You can watch the replay here:

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Watch the Semifinals Replay


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Scroll down a little more for semi results…

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Just so I didn’t ruin it for you.

Women’s Semi Results

Women's Finalists in semifinal qualification order.

Women’s Finalists in semifinal qualification order.

A four-way tie for 4th means 7 women go to finals. Here’s the rest of the semis field:

The rest of the Women's Semi field.

Women’s Semis results.

UPDATE – Apparently Melissa Le Neve and Akiyo Noguchi were both denied a problem because both used a finger in a bolt hole on the wall, which is not allowed.

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Men’s Semi Results

Men's Finalists in Semifinal Finishing Order

Men’s Finalists in Semifinal Finishing Order

Apparently Kilian, who dominated qualifiers, slipped here and didn’t make finals. Here are the results for the rest of the men’s semifinal field.

Men's Semi Results

Men’s Semi Results

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Finals coverage on the way!

IFSC Bouldering World Cup Munich

August 26, 2012 2 comments

The last bouldering World Cup for the season has just ended in Munich, Germany. An exciting finals came down to the last minute and last problem to decide the top places. Instead of taking a million screen shots I live-updated on Facebook for this comp. Not sure how successful it was as a method of recording and sharing, but some seemed to appreciate it as the live feed wasn’t working so well in many places. Luckily for me the live feed worked brilliantly this time around. If you want to read them click here – Munich Live Updates.

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Final Results

Women’s Finals

Mélanie gave a very great effort but came up just short of the finish holds on 3 and 4 and in the middle of 1 and 2, so she ended up in 6th.

Anna Gallaymova ended up climbing all the boulders, but this comp came down to attempts and she took far too many. Nevertheless, she gave a fantastic effort and even flashed final 3!  5th place.

With one fewer try than Anna G for her 4 tops, Melissa Le Neve ended up in 4th. She gave a fantastic effort as well. She easily hiked #1, then barely flashed #2, though it looked like she might fall on the last move. After missing the jump at the bottom of #3 for a while she stuck it and sent. On her flash go she fell near the top of #4, then struggled with the bottom for a while before making it back to the finish hold. 4th place.

Jule Wurm was the hometown favorite, and she climbed well though she had a sudden slip on #2 (commentator’s curse?) and at the bottom of #4 that pushed her back in the ranking. She flashed #1 and #3 for 3rd place.

Anna Stöhr was looking extremely dominant and powerful but an unexpected slip at the bottom of #4 on her first try was all it took for Akiyo to beat her. Akiyo did, flashing all 4 finals for a score of 4/4 to Anna’s 4/5.

Akiyo (1st) Anna (2nd) Jule (3rd)

Men’s Finals

For the men Briton Stewart Watson was looking quite good to podium until he slipped suddenly at the end of the last problem on his flash go. He didn’t end up sending and ended up in 6th.

Rei Sugimoto didn’t do the first problem but then recovered to do the second and flash the last. Unfortunately #3 also gave him quite the problem so he ended up in 5th. Even though Stewart has more bonuses, Rei has fewer tries to top so I guess that keeps him ahead.

Rustam didn’t look as good as usual, and after a few tries to send #1 he was shut down by the start of #2 when he kept trying a dyno and not sticking it. After many goes he did send the tricky sideways jump/slab of #3 and he flashed #4, but it wasn’t enough to put him on the podium.

Jakob is generally a beast though he looked to be suffering in this comp as well as he barely stuck the end of #1 on his 3rd try and barely got to the top of #2. #3 looked better for him once he figured out the start but he slipped suddenly on the last move and didn’t send. #4 looked like the easiest of the men’s finals and he flashed it powerfully.

Sean McColl came out in 1st position and he climbed quite well. He flashed #1 and did #2 after several tries at the start. He was the only competitor to flash #3, climbing it perfectly. #4 was also a flash, meaning that the number of tries it took him to get through the start of #2 made all the difference. Still, a great comp for Sean.

Finally Dmitrii Sharafutdinov flashed #1, nearly flashed #2 but fell after bonus and had to do it 2nd try. Took several tries for #3, flashed #4. So the falls between #2 and #3 separated Dmitrii and Sean, who were the only 2 to climb all the finals problems.

Dmitrii (1st) Sean (2nd) Jakob (3rd)

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Season Final Results

With this competition the overall season titles are also confirmed and awarded. The men’s was actually decided on quali’s day, when multi-time champion (he’s been 1st or 2nd since 2006) Kilian Fischhuber didn’t make semis and therefore lost his first place to Rustam Gelmanov. If Jakob had won this comp he would have bumped Killian even further. The women were in similar straits, with Shauna and Akiyo in a battle for 2nd. Sadly, Shauna was unable to defend her position as #2 since she suffered a broken leg in Magic Wood earlier this summer and so could not compete in this final event.

Team Overall

Team Overall – Russia (1st) France (2nd) Austria (3rd)

Men’s Overall

Rustam Gelmanov (1) Kilian Fischhuber (2) Jakob Schubert (3)

Women’s Overall

Anna Stohr (1) Akiyo Noguchi (2) Shauna Coxsey (3)

Shauna still came to the Munich comp, broken leg and all

Shauna was bumped down to 3rd overall by Akiyo Noguchi, who said she is very sorry to Shauna in her post-comp interview. Also interviewed was Udo Neumann:

German Coach and longtime movement master Udo Neumann being interviewed before the medal ceremony. Udo produces the wonderful World Cup Report videos from each event.

If you want to learn about climbing and competition climbing, Udo’s videos are a wonderful resource. It is amazing to watch the subtle and not-so-subtle differences in technique displayed by the world’s best competition climbers.

Udo Neumann’s site – Udini

Setting Blog World Cup Coverage 2012 Season

Here are links to the rest of the coverage we’ve done on the Bouldering World Cups this season.

Munich – Live Updates

#5 – Vail

Vail World Cup 2012 (lots of media all links from this page)

#4 – Innsbruck

World Cup Bouldering 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Heiko Wilhelm Photos

Bouldering World Cup #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Finals Problem 4

Bouldering World Cup 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Final Results!

Bouldering World Cup 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Semifinals Results + Meet the Finalists

World Cup 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Qualifiers Results – UPDATED w/more photos

# 3 – Vienna

Bouldering World Cup Vienna – Great Photos! + Video Links

Vienna World Cup Coverage Wrap-Up – UPDATED (many links from here)

#2  –  Log-Dragomer

Log-Dragomer Slovenia Bouldering World Cup Finals Coverage Wrap-Up (many links from here)

Videos – Mina Markovic flashing Sharky! + Highlights

#1 – China

No coverage

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See you next season!

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