Munich Final Results
Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!
Munich Men’s Final Results
This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.
Season Overall Podiums
Overall the women’s problems looked like they may have been a touch easy, as they saw many sends and attempts and count backs separated the field, but they were crowd pleasing and probably necessary as the men’s looked a bit too hard–there were only 4 tops total in the whole final. With the drama about Jakob’s ascent of problem 3, he may not get scored for that top, so really there may technically be only 3 tops in the men’s. We’ll see.
For the women Akiyo and Anna flashed everything and were separated by countbacks. Alex Puccio took 6 goes to send the 4 finals for 3rd.
Men’s Final Results
Jakob got back on Final 3 and he sent. With 2 tops he wins the comp. Guillaume Glairon Mondet had 1 top, so did Dmitrii Sharafutdinov.
New Live Scoreboard
Worth noting is that there appears to be a new style of live scoreboard at this event. The new style shows in an easy-to-visualize way how far the climbers have progressed and on which problems. Here’s what it looks like:
Sometime soon I’ll probably illustrate the earlier problem-by-problem posts more fully with screen shots and such, or you can just watch the live feed replays via ifsc-climbing.org.
Final Problem 4
Women’s Final 4
First go Alex fell on the 3rd or 4th move. She got back on and climbed the boulder to the top, though it definitely looked hard and from the viewer’s perspective there was a question as to whether or not she’d fall off on nearly every move. She didn’t. Nice Alex!
Mina Markovic got up to the big orange death star / donut, squeezed her way up the arete, did some kind of kneebar to move to the top. I guess it was a flash? Nice Mina!
Katha did well on the start, then seemed to struggle moving out to the donut. She hesitated, then just skipped it, went to bonus, right toe in donut, basically just dynoed to the top. Didn’t look that hard for her. Done.
Akiyo doesn’t seem to be having as easy a time with this as she did with the last. She seems to struggle but keeps going slowly and finishes the boulder.
Anna went backwards to the first hold but matched it somehow and kept going up. She also ignored the donut for her hands, only putting a heel in it, and easily finishing for the flash and the win.
Shauna is last out. She looks strong, climbs the bottom well, probably the best anyone has done it. Up to bonus with an inside flag. Foot in the donut, up to the last holds, feet cut and she swung them around for a bit long, finally pasted right foot on, jumped, barely stuck the top but did. Flash.
Men’s Final 4
Jernej Kruder stuck the double dyno but fell after trying to get out right to the bonus hold. Next go he got bonus via 360 backwards spin, got over on it, moved his feet over left, heel hooked, spun back around, heel hooked other foot, stuck the next hold, then fell trying to stick the big red sloper up and left. Fell there again. Done. Final score, ot, 3b.
Guillaume stuck the double dyno. Moved out right to bonus. Sitting on left heel moves up right to blue mouth sloper, sits on heel more, up left to red sloper, sticks it, jump-crosses to finish hold but falls. Again, but this time stems out to other wall, matches on red sloper, falls. Again. Can’t quite stick the last hold. Done.
Cedric climbed through the bottom easily as Guillaume had, fell where Guillaume did moving to the finish several times. Made the match on the red sloper nicely with the foot out left, but fell jumping to the last hold. No send. Gets back on. Too tired. Done.
Jakob came out and fell from the double dyno. If he finishes the problem he will win the comp. Next go he got through bonus, did a sweet vertical toe-cam, fell. Went back up, STUCK LAST MOVE! Two tops. Wins!
Thomas can’t win, but anyone who does this problem will podium, so he still has a chance at silver or bronze. We didn’t get to see all his tries as Anna was busy winning, but when they go back to him you can see him having had the bonus and falling. Didn’t finish.
Last out, Dmitrii, who, if he flashes, could actually win the comp due to the:
The announcer just came on saying that Jakob’s start position for problem 3 has been deemed illegal so that top was taken away from him. They’re going to make him try to re-climb problem 3 and if he doesn’t do it he may not win. The Austrian coach is NOT HAPPY.
So Dmitrii has his turn. Not sure if he knows about the situation with the scores and Jakob. He flashes to the last move and falls. Dmitrii goes back up, is climbing the bottom easily. Matching the red sloper easily. Jumps to the end and finishes. He is in 3rd at the least. Podium!
Jakob last go on Final Problem 3
So Jakob has to climb again. This problem looks super hard and it is disappointing for everyone I expect that he has to climb it again, but he does, so everyone is waiting around for that to happen. It goes, he sends! He wins!!!
Final Problems 3
Women’s Final 3
Alex Puccio came out strong, flashed the problem seemingly easily.
Mina fell off part way up. Got back on. The holds looked like pretty bad sloper pinches with a bit of a fonty texture. Fell going for last move. Got back up there. Fell again. So close, fell again at the last move.
Katha fell at the bottom some. Seems to be have trouble sticking the bonus. I didn’t see her stick it.
The head setter Percey came out with a ladder and brushed the hold at the top, the 2nd to last hold on the problem, which Mina had seemed to have so much trouble holding onto to do the last move.
Akiyo flashed pretty easily. She got that last hold Percey brushed with one hand and pretty much one-armed to the top. It looked great, but it was kinda weird how easily she did it and how much trouble Mina was having on the same hold. Akiyo is redic strong though so it’s hard to say, but I can’t recall ever seeing a head setter come out with a ladder and brush a hold mid-comp before.
Anna flashed easily. She didn’t do the last move as easily as Akiyo had, but she did it easily enough.
Shauna seems to be climbing really carefully, trying not to fall off. She static-ed nearly every move, climbing in control and slowly slowly slowly. She locked off the last move casually. Flash.
Men’s Final 3
Kruder came out, looked at the problem for a while. Finally stepped off the ground, really seemed to be struggling but also trying hard not to fall off. Fell off. Tried a few different things, but kept falling. Pretty sure he didn’t even get bonus point.
Guillaume came out next, looked to be struggling as well. Fell where Jernej did. Then fell at start. Fell more. Ugh.
Cedric managed to get his left hand over instead of his right on the orange hold, letting him press out and stick, then match the bonus. The bonus is that EP teardrop volume, which apparently called the “Jiu-Jitsu hold” and was designed by well-known coursesetter Laurent LaPorte. Cedric got through the bottom again, seems to really be struggling working his way around the volume. Fell.
Jakob looked good, then dropped suddenly before bonus, looking like he twinged his shoulder a bit. Got back on, fell again. Fell a bunch more. Finally pressed out like Cedric did and got bonus. The live feed announcer said go right, and it made no sense to anyone, but Jakob actually did go right, gastoning the top of the volume. From there he lurched to a left hand crimp, came out quite a bit but stuck, and finished the problem! It was only the 2nd men’s top in the entire comp so far. He was very psyched, as was the hometown crowd.
Thomas flashed to press on the bonus, then fell. Did the bottom again, it looks pretty easy for him, but he falls moving into the volume again. Fell a bunch, no success.
Dmitrii managed bonus, matched bonus, left hand up (like Cedric was trying), moved his foot up, fell. Fell again. Lots of times. No send.
Screenshots to come later. For now, Problem 4!
Alex Puccio pressed up into the corner on the boss-looking slopers, got up over the lip, stuck what looked like a hard move over the lip to a crimp, foot up, pressed into an orange sidepull, lurched smoothly right hand to the finish hold. I thought it was her 2nd flash but the announcer says she did it 2nd go so I guess she must have fallen at the bottom once, or he is wrong.
Mina pressed through the bottom, then fell jumping over the bulge to the second orange crimp when she didn’t quite hit the hold right. The move looked hard for Alex as well. Next go she showed off her famous flexibility, heel hooked over her hand, rocked up, and static-ed the move. For the last move she went out to the arete (as the announcer suggested), came back, went back out, tried a high heel, rocked over, couldn’t quite get her hand to the finish hold, tried again, slipped off, done. It was a great effort and too bad she didn’t finish.
Katha came out, and the feed froze. So…suck. Not sure what is happening. The feed came back but I’m not sure what happened except Katha didn’t make the top.
Akiyo looked a little confused at the start, trying different positions before committing to leave the ground. When she did she got into the roof holds smoothly, stuck the jump to the crimp, made her way up to the top, toehooked left on arete, crossed to finish. Flash.
Anna got through the bottom, stuck the difficult crimp, went out to the arete, tried heel like Mina had, then went back and jumped to finish left hand, sticks, flash, back in 1st.
Shauna looked to be struggling getting out to the blobs, then got on them and looked good, then fell moving up to the first orange crimp over the lip. Fell again. Fell on slopers, seemed to be really struggling more with them than any other competitor thus far has. Got back out on them. Fell again. No top.
The only slab in finals.
Jernej Kruder climbed the bottom ok but fell trying to stick the bonus hold.
Guillaume used a different method and managed to balance his way to the bonus hold with a toehook. It looked like a fair amount of smear-campusing but he wasn’t quite able to stick the finish. Next go he again got through the bottom, left foot on light green triangle, finished! 1t2
Cedric slipped off the bottom, and then the feed froze. When it came back he was past bonus but I don’t think he finished.
Jakob flashed to bonus with his left hand, then came back down to move his body around and try to continue climbing. He slipped off.
Thomas comes from a different direction, heel hooking to go right hand to bonus, but he can’t get out of the position and falls. Again same thing. 3rd time same thing, he doesn’t seem to be learning from his positional difficulties once he’s got bonus, and since he’s already scored for it it’d be good to try something else probably. Fell again. Seemed to figure it out, went left to bonus and was leaning out right, fell, out of time. Done.
Dmitrii tried to get his balance but fell before getting bonus. Kept falling off. Tried for bonus both hands, as far as I saw couldn’t stick it.
I will probably add screen shots later to illustrate, but this is live, so this is what I have time to post now.
Finals Problem 1
First up for women was Alex Puccio. Despite the technical nature of the climb it was vertical to overhanging the entire way and Alex stuck her thrutchy solution to the first move (she went right to the undercling instead of left) and flashed! 1/1
Mina Markovic came out looking strong, did the first move far more easily than Puccio had by crossing left to the undercling, got bonus, then fell near the top of the problem jumping to the yellow sloper volume. Again. 3rd go she kept it together and sent! 1/3
Katha Saurwein was next. She fell off the bottom a couple of times, then got bonus hold and fell where Mina had fallen. 1/3
Akiyo Noguchi was next. Casually flashed. 1/1
Anna Stöhr, world cup hero on her home ground. Flashed easily. 1/1
Shauna did like Alex Puccio and went right hand off the start, though it looked less thrutchy for her. Unfortunately she then fell like Mina Markovic, slipping off the jump from the bonus to the yellow volume. Next go she stuck the move and finished the problem. 1/2
Standings after Final 1 (due to countbacks)
Alex P 1t1
For men Jernej Kruder struggled to get off the bonus hold (black triangle volume) to the next large blue sloper and after many goes ended up scored for bonus only.
Guillaume Glairon Mondet was next for men and he too struggled with the volumes, getting no higher than Jernej did.
Cedric Lachat came out next, also began by falling off. He tried a lot but didn’t even make bonus.
Jakob Schubert came out next, flashed to volume, fell repeatedly where Jernej did.
Thomas Tauporn fell as Jernej, Guillaume, and Jakob did. Bonus, no top.
Dmitrii flashed to bonus but fell matching it. Fell trying to get the sloper as well.
It looked like using the arete would help, but it was marked off so no one could use it.
I’ll post more illustrative screen shots later, but finals is currently happening so this is all I have time for now. Problem 2!
The last bouldering World Cup for the season has just ended in Munich, Germany. An exciting finals came down to the last minute and last problem to decide the top places. Instead of taking a million screen shots I live-updated on Facebook for this comp. Not sure how successful it was as a method of recording and sharing, but some seemed to appreciate it as the live feed wasn’t working so well in many places. Luckily for me the live feed worked brilliantly this time around. If you want to read them click here – Munich Live Updates.
Mélanie gave a very great effort but came up just short of the finish holds on 3 and 4 and in the middle of 1 and 2, so she ended up in 6th.
Anna Gallaymova ended up climbing all the boulders, but this comp came down to attempts and she took far too many. Nevertheless, she gave a fantastic effort and even flashed final 3! 5th place.
With one fewer try than Anna G for her 4 tops, Melissa Le Neve ended up in 4th. She gave a fantastic effort as well. She easily hiked #1, then barely flashed #2, though it looked like she might fall on the last move. After missing the jump at the bottom of #3 for a while she stuck it and sent. On her flash go she fell near the top of #4, then struggled with the bottom for a while before making it back to the finish hold. 4th place.
Jule Wurm was the hometown favorite, and she climbed well though she had a sudden slip on #2 (commentator’s curse?) and at the bottom of #4 that pushed her back in the ranking. She flashed #1 and #3 for 3rd place.
Anna Stöhr was looking extremely dominant and powerful but an unexpected slip at the bottom of #4 on her first try was all it took for Akiyo to beat her. Akiyo did, flashing all 4 finals for a score of 4/4 to Anna’s 4/5.
For the men Briton Stewart Watson was looking quite good to podium until he slipped suddenly at the end of the last problem on his flash go. He didn’t end up sending and ended up in 6th.
Rei Sugimoto didn’t do the first problem but then recovered to do the second and flash the last. Unfortunately #3 also gave him quite the problem so he ended up in 5th. Even though Stewart has more bonuses, Rei has fewer tries to top so I guess that keeps him ahead.
Rustam didn’t look as good as usual, and after a few tries to send #1 he was shut down by the start of #2 when he kept trying a dyno and not sticking it. After many goes he did send the tricky sideways jump/slab of #3 and he flashed #4, but it wasn’t enough to put him on the podium.
Jakob is generally a beast though he looked to be suffering in this comp as well as he barely stuck the end of #1 on his 3rd try and barely got to the top of #2. #3 looked better for him once he figured out the start but he slipped suddenly on the last move and didn’t send. #4 looked like the easiest of the men’s finals and he flashed it powerfully.
Sean McColl came out in 1st position and he climbed quite well. He flashed #1 and did #2 after several tries at the start. He was the only competitor to flash #3, climbing it perfectly. #4 was also a flash, meaning that the number of tries it took him to get through the start of #2 made all the difference. Still, a great comp for Sean.
Finally Dmitrii Sharafutdinov flashed #1, nearly flashed #2 but fell after bonus and had to do it 2nd try. Took several tries for #3, flashed #4. So the falls between #2 and #3 separated Dmitrii and Sean, who were the only 2 to climb all the finals problems.
Season Final Results
With this competition the overall season titles are also confirmed and awarded. The men’s was actually decided on quali’s day, when multi-time champion (he’s been 1st or 2nd since 2006) Kilian Fischhuber didn’t make semis and therefore lost his first place to Rustam Gelmanov. If Jakob had won this comp he would have bumped Killian even further. The women were in similar straits, with Shauna and Akiyo in a battle for 2nd. Sadly, Shauna was unable to defend her position as #2 since she suffered a broken leg in Magic Wood earlier this summer and so could not compete in this final event.
Shauna was bumped down to 3rd overall by Akiyo Noguchi, who said she is very sorry to Shauna in her post-comp interview. Also interviewed was Udo Neumann:
If you want to learn about climbing and competition climbing, Udo’s videos are a wonderful resource. It is amazing to watch the subtle and not-so-subtle differences in technique displayed by the world’s best competition climbers.
Setting Blog World Cup Coverage 2012 Season
Here are links to the rest of the coverage we’ve done on the Bouldering World Cups this season.
Munich – Live Updates
#5 – Vail
Vail World Cup 2012 (lots of media all links from this page)
#4 – Innsbruck
# 3 – Vienna
Vienna World Cup Coverage Wrap-Up – UPDATED (many links from here)
#2 – Log-Dragomer
Log-Dragomer Slovenia Bouldering World Cup Finals Coverage Wrap-Up (many links from here)
#1 – China
See you next season!
As usual Austrian Team Manager Heiko Wilhelm has come out with some spectacular images of the event. Here are some of my favorites:
A couple from qualis
To see the rest check out the Austria Climbing Team on Facebook – Austria Climbing Team
Here are some short problem breakdowns for Men’s finals 1 and 2. There are links to Men’s 3 and 4, Women’s 1 to 4, videos, results, and highlights at the bottom. Enjoy!
Men’s Final 1
This problem gave an auspicious start to Men’s finals as every competitor took some huge falls off the last move repeatedly. Thomas Tauporn of Germany was the only one to do a consistent double dyno to the hold and after several tries he dialed back his jump a bit to lessen the swing and managed to stick for the problem’s only send.
Men’s Final 2
I’m going to call this one “The Stopper” because it completely stopped Jakob Schubert cold. He couldn’t get past the first move. According to the notes I took while watching the live feed it also stopped Thomas Tauporn but apparently when the feed cut out he managed to get to the bonus hold. Same for Guillaume. On the other hand, Rustam and Kilian both flashed it casually.
More from the comp:
Here are rundowns from Men’s finals 3 and 4. 1 and 2 coming soon. In addition, you can watch highlights which are actually already available at http://www.247.tv/ifsc-climbing/ifsc-climbing-wc-2012-boulder-log-dragomer-slo/. I am glad they are making an effort to quickly provide replays and highlights this year. I hope all the World Cup events have similar turn around time. It is much better to watch it yourself if you have the chance.
Men’s Final 3 – Body Tension
This problem was supposed to challenge the tired body tension of the competitors. Unfortunately most competitors either did 2 easily or couldn’t get off the ground, so they weren’t so tired as they were supposed to be. This problem seemed a welcome respite from the technical climbing of the first two finals. Jakob flashed it for his first send of the round, as did Dmitri and GG. Rustam flashed for his second send. Kilian and Thomas both did it 2nd try (for their second sends). Alexey did it 2nd try for his first send. Basically, it seemed way easier than the first 2 problems.
Men’s Final 4 – Run and Jump
This problem started out with a two-step run and jump to the vertical red triangle volume. From there it didn’t seem to cause the men much trouble as they did a few power moves out left to the finish on the green volume at the top left.
In the end it came down to falls as 3 climbers did 3 problems (so they were the podium) and the rest did 2 problems each. Rustam did his boulders in only 4 tries (2 flash, 1 2nd go) so he won. Kilian was next with 6 tries for his 3 sends. Thomas took 9 goes for his and ended up in 3rd. For the rest of the results and more from this comp use the links below.