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Posts Tagged ‘Jakob Schubert’

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final Results + Overall Season Results

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Finals Replay

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Munich Final Results

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women's Podium in Munich.

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women’s Podium in Munich.

Munich Women's Final Scores

Munich Women’s Final Scores

Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!

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Munich Men’s Final Results

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.

Rei Sugimoto

Winner Rei Sugimoto

Men's Final Scores

Men’s Final Scores

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Season Overall Podiums

Women's Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Women’s Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Men's Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

Men’s Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Results

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Overall the women’s problems looked like they may have been a touch easy, as they saw many sends and attempts and count backs separated the field, but they were crowd pleasing and probably necessary as the men’s looked a bit too hard–there were only 4 tops total in the whole final. With the drama about Jakob’s ascent of problem 3, he may not get scored for that top, so really there may technically be only 3 tops in the men’s. We’ll see.

For the women Akiyo and Anna flashed everything and were separated by countbacks. Alex Puccio took 6 goes to send the 4 finals for 3rd.

Women's Podium. Anna is psyched!

Women’s Podium. Anna is psyched!

Women's Final Results

Women’s Final Results

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Men’s Final Results

Jakob got back on Final 3 and he sent. With 2 tops he wins the comp. Guillaume Glairon Mondet had 1 top, so did Dmitrii Sharafutdinov.

Men's Podium

Men’s Podium

Men's Final Results after the reclimb

Men’s Final Results after the reclimb

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New Live Scoreboard

Worth noting is that there appears to be a new style of live scoreboard at this event. The new style shows in an easy-to-visualize way how far the climbers have progressed and on which problems. Here’s what it looks like:

Sorry it's blurry. The live at-event scoreboard.

Sorry it’s blurry. The live at-event scoreboard. Green lines mean they got the bonus. Full blocks represent sends. Tries are off to the right.

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Sometime soon I’ll probably illustrate the earlier problem-by-problem posts more fully with screen shots and such, or you can just watch the live feed replays via ifsc-climbing.org.

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final 4 + Jakob on Final 3 Again

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Final Problem 4

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Women’s Final 4

First go Alex fell on the 3rd or 4th move. She got back on and climbed the boulder to the top, though it definitely looked hard and from the viewer’s perspective there was a question as to whether or not she’d fall off on nearly every move. She didn’t. Nice Alex!

Mina Markovic got up to the big orange death star / donut, squeezed her way up the arete, did some kind of kneebar to move to the top. I guess it was a flash? Nice Mina!

Katha did well on the start, then seemed to struggle moving out to the donut. She hesitated, then just skipped it, went to bonus, right toe in donut, basically just dynoed to the top. Didn’t look that hard for her. Done.

Akiyo doesn’t seem to be having as easy a time with this as she did with the last. She seems to struggle but keeps going slowly and finishes the boulder.

Anna went backwards to the first hold but matched it somehow and kept going up. She also ignored the donut for her hands, only putting a heel in it, and easily finishing for the flash and the win.

Shauna is last out. She looks strong, climbs the bottom well, probably the best anyone has done it. Up to bonus with an inside flag. Foot in the donut, up to the last holds, feet cut and she swung them around for a bit long, finally pasted right foot on, jumped, barely stuck the top but did. Flash.

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Men’s Final 4

Jernej Kruder stuck the double dyno but fell after trying to get out right to the bonus hold. Next go he got bonus via 360 backwards spin, got over on it, moved his feet over left, heel hooked, spun back around, heel hooked other foot, stuck the next hold, then fell trying to stick the big red sloper up and left. Fell there again. Done. Final score, ot, 3b.

Guillaume stuck the double dyno. Moved out right to bonus. Sitting on left heel moves up right to blue mouth sloper, sits on heel more, up left to red sloper, sticks it, jump-crosses to finish hold but falls. Again, but this time stems out to other wall, matches on red sloper, falls. Again. Can’t quite stick the last hold. Done.

Cedric climbed through the bottom easily as Guillaume had, fell where Guillaume did moving to the finish several times. Made the match on the red sloper nicely with the foot out left, but fell jumping to the last hold. No send. Gets back on. Too tired. Done.

Jakob came out and fell from the double dyno. If he finishes the problem he will win the comp. Next go he got through bonus, did a sweet vertical toe-cam, fell. Went back up, STUCK LAST MOVE! Two tops. Wins!

Thomas can’t win, but anyone who does this problem will podium, so he still has a chance at silver or bronze. We didn’t get to see all his tries as Anna was busy winning, but when they go back to him you can see him having had the bonus and falling. Didn’t finish.

Last out, Dmitrii, who, if he flashes, could actually win the comp due to the:

Surprise Drama

The announcer just came on saying that Jakob’s start position for problem 3 has been deemed illegal so that top was taken away from him. They’re going to make him try to re-climb problem 3 and if he doesn’t do it he may not win. The Austrian coach is NOT HAPPY.

So Dmitrii has his turn. Not sure if he knows about the situation with the scores and Jakob. He flashes to the last move and falls. Dmitrii goes back up, is climbing the bottom easily. Matching the red sloper easily. Jumps to the end and finishes. He is in 3rd at the least. Podium!

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Jakob last go on Final Problem 3

So Jakob has to climb again. This problem looks super hard and it is disappointing for everyone I expect that he has to climb it again, but he does, so everyone is waiting around for that to happen. It goes, he sends! He wins!!!

Jakob after climbing Problem 3 for his second time.

Jakob after climbing Problem 3 for his second time.

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Problem 3

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Final Problems 3

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Women’s Final 3

Alex Puccio came out strong, flashed the problem seemingly easily.

Mina fell off part way up. Got back on. The holds looked like pretty bad sloper pinches with a bit of a fonty texture. Fell going for last move. Got back up there. Fell again. So close, fell again at the last move.

Katha fell at the bottom some. Seems to be have trouble sticking the bonus. I didn’t see her stick it.

The head setter Percey came out with a ladder and brushed the hold at the top, the 2nd to last hold on the problem, which Mina had seemed to have so much trouble holding onto to do the last move.

Akiyo flashed pretty easily. She got that last hold Percey brushed with one hand and pretty much one-armed to the top. It looked great, but it was kinda weird how easily she did it and how much trouble Mina was having on the same hold. Akiyo is redic strong though so it’s hard to say, but I can’t recall ever seeing a head setter come out with a ladder and brush a hold mid-comp before.

Anna flashed easily. She didn’t do the last move as easily as Akiyo had, but she did it easily enough.

Shauna seems to be climbing really carefully, trying not to fall off. She static-ed nearly every move, climbing in control and slowly slowly slowly. She locked off the last move casually. Flash.

Women's Results after Final 3

Women’s Results after Final 3

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Men’s Final 3

Kruder came out, looked at the problem for a while. Finally stepped off the ground, really seemed to be struggling but also trying hard not to fall off. Fell off. Tried a few different things, but kept falling. Pretty sure he didn’t even get bonus point.

Guillaume came out next, looked to be struggling as well. Fell where Jernej did. Then fell at start. Fell more. Ugh.

Cedric managed to get his left hand over instead of his right on the orange hold, letting him press out and stick, then match the bonus. The bonus is that EP teardrop volume, which apparently called the “Jiu-Jitsu hold” and was designed by well-known coursesetter Laurent LaPorte. Cedric got through the bottom again, seems to really be struggling working his way around the volume. Fell.

Jakob looked good, then dropped suddenly before bonus, looking like he twinged his shoulder a bit. Got back on, fell again. Fell a bunch more. Finally pressed out like Cedric did and got bonus. The live feed announcer said go right, and it made no sense to anyone, but Jakob actually did go right, gastoning the top of the volume. From there he lurched to a left hand crimp, came out quite a bit but stuck, and finished the problem! It was only the 2nd men’s top in the entire comp so far. He was very psyched, as was the hometown crowd.

Thomas flashed to press on the bonus, then fell. Did the bottom again, it looks pretty easy for him, but he falls moving into the volume again. Fell a bunch, no success.

Dmitrii managed bonus, matched bonus, left hand up (like Cedric was trying), moved his foot up, fell. Fell again. Lots of times. No send.

Men's Results after Final 3

Men’s Results after Final 3

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Screenshots to come later. For now, Problem 4!

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Problem 2

April 27, 2013 1 comment
FInals #2 are the two problems on the left.

FInals #2 are the two problems being brushed on the left. Men’s is the slab, women’s is the overhanging power bloc.

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Women’s 2

Alex Puccio pressed up into the corner on the boss-looking slopers, got up over the lip, stuck what looked like a hard move over the lip to a crimp, foot up, pressed into an orange sidepull, lurched smoothly right hand to the finish hold. I thought it was her 2nd flash but the announcer says she did it 2nd go so I guess she must have fallen at the bottom once, or he is wrong.

Mina pressed through the bottom, then fell jumping over the bulge to the second orange crimp when she didn’t quite hit the hold right. The move looked hard for Alex as well. Next go she showed off her famous flexibility, heel hooked over her hand, rocked up, and static-ed the move. For the last move she went out to the arete (as the announcer suggested), came back, went back out, tried a high heel, rocked over, couldn’t quite get her hand to the finish hold, tried again, slipped off, done. It was a great effort and too bad she didn’t finish.

Katha came out, and the feed froze. So…suck. Not sure what is happening. The feed came back but I’m not sure what happened except Katha didn’t make the top.

Akiyo looked a little confused at the start, trying different positions before committing to leave the ground. When she did she got into the roof holds smoothly, stuck the jump to the crimp, made her way up to the top, toehooked left on arete, crossed to finish. Flash.

Anna got through the bottom, stuck the difficult crimp, went out to the arete, tried heel like Mina had, then went back and jumped to finish left hand, sticks, flash, back in 1st.

Shauna looked to be struggling getting out to the blobs, then got on them and looked good, then fell moving up to the first orange crimp over the lip. Fell again. Fell on slopers, seemed to be really struggling more with them than any other competitor thus far has. Got back out on them.  Fell again. No top.

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Men’s 2

The only slab in finals.

Jernej Kruder climbed the bottom ok but fell trying to stick the bonus hold.

Guillaume getting in position for bonus on Men's Final 2.

Guillaume getting in position for bonus on Men’s Final 2.

Guillaume used a different method and managed to balance his way to the bonus hold with a toehook. It looked like a fair amount of smear-campusing but he wasn’t quite able to stick the finish. Next go he again got through the bottom, left foot on light green triangle, finished! 1t2

Cedric slipped off the bottom, and then the feed froze. When it came back he was past bonus but I don’t think he finished.

Jakob flashed to bonus with his left hand, then came back down to move his body around and try to continue climbing. He slipped off.

Thomas comes from a different direction, heel hooking to go right hand to bonus, but he can’t get out of the position and falls. Again same thing. 3rd time same thing, he doesn’t seem to be learning from his positional difficulties once he’s got bonus, and since he’s already scored for it it’d be good to try something else probably. Fell again. Seemed to figure it out, went left to bonus and was leaning out right, fell, out of time. Done.

Dmitrii tried to get his balance but fell before getting bonus. Kept falling off. Tried for bonus both hands, as far as I saw couldn’t stick it.

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I will probably add screen shots later to illustrate, but this is live, so this is what I have time to post now.

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Finals Problem 1

April 27, 2013 1 comment

Finals Problem 1

Mina Markovic and Guillaume Glairon Mondet on Final 1

Mina Markovic and Guillaume Glairon Mondet on Final 1

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Women’s 1

Alex flashing Final 1

Alex flashing Final 1

First up for women was Alex Puccio. Despite the technical nature of the climb it was vertical to overhanging the entire way and Alex stuck her thrutchy solution to the first move (she went right to the undercling instead of left) and flashed! 1/1

Mina Markovic came out looking strong, did the first move far more easily than Puccio had by crossing left to the undercling, got bonus, then fell near the top of the problem jumping to the yellow sloper volume. Again. 3rd go she kept it together and sent! 1/3

Katha Saurwein was next. She fell off the bottom a couple of times, then got bonus hold and fell where Mina had fallen. 1/3

Akiyo Noguchi was next. Casually flashed. 1/1

Anna Stöhr, world cup hero on her home ground. Flashed easily. 1/1

Shauna did like Alex Puccio and went right hand off the start, though it looked less thrutchy for her. Unfortunately she then fell like Mina Markovic, slipping off the jump from the bonus to the yellow volume. Next go she stuck the move and finished the problem. 1/2

Standings after Final 1 (due to countbacks)

Anna 1t1

Akiyo 1t1

Alex P 1t1

Shauna 1t3

Mina 1t3

Katha 1t3

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Men’s 1

Jernej staring down the sloper that apparently is the crux of final 1

Jernej staring down the sloper that apparently is the crux of final 1

For men Jernej Kruder struggled to get off the bonus hold (black triangle volume) to the next large blue sloper and after many goes ended up scored for bonus only.

Guillaume Glairon Mondet was next for men and he too struggled with the volumes, getting no higher than Jernej did.

Cedric Lachat came out next, also began by falling off. He tried a lot but didn’t even make bonus.

Jakob Schubert came out next, flashed to volume, fell repeatedly where Jernej did.

Thomas Tauporn fell as Jernej, Guillaume, and Jakob did. Bonus, no top.

Dmitrii flashed to bonus but fell matching it. Fell trying to get the sloper as well.

It looked like using the arete would help, but it was marked off so no one could use it.

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I’ll post more illustrative screen shots later, but finals is currently happening so this is all I have time for now. Problem 2!

IFSC Bouldering World Cup Munich

August 26, 2012 2 comments

The last bouldering World Cup for the season has just ended in Munich, Germany. An exciting finals came down to the last minute and last problem to decide the top places. Instead of taking a million screen shots I live-updated on Facebook for this comp. Not sure how successful it was as a method of recording and sharing, but some seemed to appreciate it as the live feed wasn’t working so well in many places. Luckily for me the live feed worked brilliantly this time around. If you want to read them click here – Munich Live Updates.

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Final Results

Women’s Finals

Mélanie gave a very great effort but came up just short of the finish holds on 3 and 4 and in the middle of 1 and 2, so she ended up in 6th.

Anna Gallaymova ended up climbing all the boulders, but this comp came down to attempts and she took far too many. Nevertheless, she gave a fantastic effort and even flashed final 3!  5th place.

With one fewer try than Anna G for her 4 tops, Melissa Le Neve ended up in 4th. She gave a fantastic effort as well. She easily hiked #1, then barely flashed #2, though it looked like she might fall on the last move. After missing the jump at the bottom of #3 for a while she stuck it and sent. On her flash go she fell near the top of #4, then struggled with the bottom for a while before making it back to the finish hold. 4th place.

Jule Wurm was the hometown favorite, and she climbed well though she had a sudden slip on #2 (commentator’s curse?) and at the bottom of #4 that pushed her back in the ranking. She flashed #1 and #3 for 3rd place.

Anna Stöhr was looking extremely dominant and powerful but an unexpected slip at the bottom of #4 on her first try was all it took for Akiyo to beat her. Akiyo did, flashing all 4 finals for a score of 4/4 to Anna’s 4/5.

Akiyo (1st) Anna (2nd) Jule (3rd)

Men’s Finals

For the men Briton Stewart Watson was looking quite good to podium until he slipped suddenly at the end of the last problem on his flash go. He didn’t end up sending and ended up in 6th.

Rei Sugimoto didn’t do the first problem but then recovered to do the second and flash the last. Unfortunately #3 also gave him quite the problem so he ended up in 5th. Even though Stewart has more bonuses, Rei has fewer tries to top so I guess that keeps him ahead.

Rustam didn’t look as good as usual, and after a few tries to send #1 he was shut down by the start of #2 when he kept trying a dyno and not sticking it. After many goes he did send the tricky sideways jump/slab of #3 and he flashed #4, but it wasn’t enough to put him on the podium.

Jakob is generally a beast though he looked to be suffering in this comp as well as he barely stuck the end of #1 on his 3rd try and barely got to the top of #2. #3 looked better for him once he figured out the start but he slipped suddenly on the last move and didn’t send. #4 looked like the easiest of the men’s finals and he flashed it powerfully.

Sean McColl came out in 1st position and he climbed quite well. He flashed #1 and did #2 after several tries at the start. He was the only competitor to flash #3, climbing it perfectly. #4 was also a flash, meaning that the number of tries it took him to get through the start of #2 made all the difference. Still, a great comp for Sean.

Finally Dmitrii Sharafutdinov flashed #1, nearly flashed #2 but fell after bonus and had to do it 2nd try. Took several tries for #3, flashed #4. So the falls between #2 and #3 separated Dmitrii and Sean, who were the only 2 to climb all the finals problems.

Dmitrii (1st) Sean (2nd) Jakob (3rd)

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Season Final Results

With this competition the overall season titles are also confirmed and awarded. The men’s was actually decided on quali’s day, when multi-time champion (he’s been 1st or 2nd since 2006) Kilian Fischhuber didn’t make semis and therefore lost his first place to Rustam Gelmanov. If Jakob had won this comp he would have bumped Killian even further. The women were in similar straits, with Shauna and Akiyo in a battle for 2nd. Sadly, Shauna was unable to defend her position as #2 since she suffered a broken leg in Magic Wood earlier this summer and so could not compete in this final event.

Team Overall

Team Overall – Russia (1st) France (2nd) Austria (3rd)

Men’s Overall

Rustam Gelmanov (1) Kilian Fischhuber (2) Jakob Schubert (3)

Women’s Overall

Anna Stohr (1) Akiyo Noguchi (2) Shauna Coxsey (3)

Shauna still came to the Munich comp, broken leg and all

Shauna was bumped down to 3rd overall by Akiyo Noguchi, who said she is very sorry to Shauna in her post-comp interview. Also interviewed was Udo Neumann:

German Coach and longtime movement master Udo Neumann being interviewed before the medal ceremony. Udo produces the wonderful World Cup Report videos from each event.

If you want to learn about climbing and competition climbing, Udo’s videos are a wonderful resource. It is amazing to watch the subtle and not-so-subtle differences in technique displayed by the world’s best competition climbers.

Udo Neumann’s site – Udini

Setting Blog World Cup Coverage 2012 Season

Here are links to the rest of the coverage we’ve done on the Bouldering World Cups this season.

Munich – Live Updates

#5 – Vail

Vail World Cup 2012 (lots of media all links from this page)

#4 – Innsbruck

World Cup Bouldering 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Heiko Wilhelm Photos

Bouldering World Cup #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Finals Problem 4

Bouldering World Cup 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Final Results!

Bouldering World Cup 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Semifinals Results + Meet the Finalists

World Cup 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Qualifiers Results – UPDATED w/more photos

# 3 – Vienna

Bouldering World Cup Vienna – Great Photos! + Video Links

Vienna World Cup Coverage Wrap-Up – UPDATED (many links from here)

#2  -  Log-Dragomer

Log-Dragomer Slovenia Bouldering World Cup Finals Coverage Wrap-Up (many links from here)

Videos – Mina Markovic flashing Sharky! + Highlights

#1 – China

No coverage

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See you next season!

World Cup Bouldering 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Heiko Wilhelm Photos

May 20, 2012 2 comments

As usual Austrian Team Manager Heiko Wilhelm has come out with some spectacular images of the event. Here are some of my favorites:

A couple from qualis

Jain Kim with her left hand on the left start hold of Women’s Quali 3? Notice the blockers around it to prevent the heel hook | Heiko Wilhelm

Mina Markovic on Women’s Quali 2 | Heiko Wilhelm

Finals

Sean McColl Men’s Final 3 | Heiko Wilhelm

Jain Kim sticking the long move to the bonus on Women’s Final 3 | Heiko Wilhelm

Jakob Schubert nearly sending Final 2 | Heiko Wilhelm

Kilian sending the problem that would win him the comp | Heiko Wilhelm

Melissa Le Neve on Final 4 | Heiko Wilhelm

Anna for the win! | Heiko Wilhelm

Rustam, Kilian, Sean on the Men’s Podium | Heiko Wilhelm

Shauna, Anna and Melissa  |  Heiko Wilhelm

To see the rest check out the Austria Climbing Team on Facebook - Austria Climbing Team

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Finals 1 & 2

April 23, 2012 1 comment

Here are some short problem breakdowns for Men’s finals 1 and 2. There are links to Men’s 3 and 4, Women’s 1 to 4, videos, results, and highlights at the bottom. Enjoy!

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Men’s Final 1

This problem gave an auspicious start to Men’s finals as every competitor took some huge falls off the last move repeatedly. Thomas Tauporn of Germany was the only one to do a consistent double dyno to the hold and after several tries he dialed back his jump a bit to lessen the swing and managed to stick for the problem’s only send.

Men's Final 1. Green Volumes out left to yellow hold on yellow volume, mantle, balance, match top green volume, jump both hands to difficult-to-stick last hold.

Dmitri in the beginning of final 1. Thomas slipped off this volume twice, then rallied through it 4 more times. No one else seemed to have much of a problem with it.

Jakob moving out left. Most boys went with the swing method but Guillaume went heel-first out to the yellow volume and it looked less strenuous.

Jakob hung out on this hold and tried different mantle methods for a while before finally going with his right foot.

Jakob committing to the mantle.

Jakob trying to stay balanced.

Jakob stood up and mantled off his right foot. He and Alexey seemed to have the most difficult time with the mantle.

The beginning of Alexey's mantle method.

Alexey did the mantle with what looked to be a very difficult method. It worked for him twice but his final go he barn-doored out of the mantle and fell off.

Guillaume

Rustam standing out of the mantle and getting his balance for the move to the green triangle volume.

Dmitri near the top of men's final 1

Dmitri getting into position to match the last volume and jump for the final hold.

Jakob staring down the last hold. You had to double dyno for it and only after 4 tries at that did Thomas Tauporn stick it for the problem's only send. Jakob, Dmitri, Alexey, and Kilian all took multiple big falls after grabbing the hold and swinging out and off it. I'm not sure how GG did because the feed cut out. Rustam fell off the top volume at least twice but didn't even touch the last hold.

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Men’s Final 2

I’m going to call this one “The Stopper” because it completely stopped Jakob Schubert cold. He couldn’t get past the first move. According to the notes I took while watching the live feed it also stopped Thomas Tauporn but apparently when the feed cut out he managed to get to the bonus hold. Same for Guillaume. On the other hand, Rustam and Kilian both flashed it casually.

Men's Final 2. Blue volume of left hand and foot, right hand just above the angle change, rock up left to pink volume and jib. up right with undercling, dropknee cross left to bonus hold, cross back right to highest blue hold, move out left on crimps to volume.

Jakob had a lot of trouble with this first move and wasn't able to stick the jib on the pink volume. He seemed to not be able to stick to the right hand hold. He had it brushed multiple times but couldn't pull far off it. Even after the awards ceremony he stopped to feel the hold again. He seemed very frustrated by it.

Dmitri trying to figure out how to stick the cross off the bonus hold.

Kilian climbed this easily, as did Rustam. Everyone else had trouble getting off the ground. You can see the bonus hold below Kilian's elbow. Everyone got there but Jakob.

More from the comp:

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Finals 3 & 4 – Body Tension & Run and Jump

IFSC Bouldering World Cup #3 Log-Dragomer Final Results!

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Breakdown – Women’s 1 & 2

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Problems Breakdown – Women’s 3 & 4 

Videos – Mina Markovic flashing Sharky! + Highlights

Highlights: http://www.247.tv/ifsc-climbing/ifsc-climbing-wc-2012-boulder-log-dragomer-slo/

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Finals 3 & 4 – Body Tension & Run and Jump

April 23, 2012 2 comments

Here are rundowns from Men’s finals 3 and 4. 1 and 2 coming soon. In addition, you can watch highlights which are actually already available at http://www.247.tv/ifsc-climbing/ifsc-climbing-wc-2012-boulder-log-dragomer-slo/. I am glad they are making an effort to quickly provide replays and highlights this year. I hope all the World Cup events have similar turn around time. It is much better to watch it yourself if you have the chance.

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Men’s Final 3 – Body Tension

This problem was supposed to challenge the tired body tension of the competitors. Unfortunately most competitors either did 2 easily or couldn’t get off the ground, so they weren’t so tired as they were supposed to be. This problem seemed a welcome respite from the technical climbing of the first two finals. Jakob flashed it for his first send of the round, as did Dmitri and GG. Rustam flashed for his second send. Kilian and Thomas both did it 2nd try (for their second sends). Alexey did it 2nd try for his first send. Basically, it seemed way easier than the first 2 problems.

Start hold to green volume to body-tensiony power moves up the overhanging arete.

Jakob working his way around the volume. Thomas and Alexey both slipped off here once.

Rustam moving to the bonus hold. Kilian slipped off here his first go.

Rustam grabbing the bonus hold. Every competitor sent this problem 1st or 2nd go, once they got to the bonus hold. Rustam, GG, Dmitri and Jakob flashed, and Kilian, Thomas, and Alexey did it 2nd go. From where Rustam is it's a power move up to the blue volume rt hand then a high foot next to the current right hand and a cross to the finish hold. It didn't seem to present the boys much trouble. Sadly I don't have any pictures of any move beyond this.

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Men’s Final 4 – Run and Jump

This problem started out with a two-step run and jump to the vertical red triangle volume. From there it didn’t seem to cause the men much trouble as they did a few power moves out left to the finish on the green volume at the top left.

The Samsung Volume in the top right corner is just for decoration and the triangle volume at the bottom right is for a women's problem. The rest make up Men's Final 4.

Jakob falling off the run-and-jump. It was flashed by Thomas and Dmitri, done 2nd go by Rustam and GG, 3rd go by Kilian, 5th go by Jakob, and 10th go by Alexey.

Rustam used a toe hook to get established out left before crossing to the basketball. Alexey used what looked like a foot cam on the top edge of the volume and the edge of the wall.

Kilian manhandled this one. It took him 3 tries to stick the run-and-jump and then he pretty much sprinted to the finish.

Most of the boys did this cross like Thomas, with smearing feet. The basketball they are crossing into seemed like it had some positive sections as the boys generally adjusted on it before cutting their feet and other hand.

Dmitri made this problem look easy as he hiked it on his flash go. GG was the only one to fall from this hold after he cut his feet and got out of balance on the swing.

Thomas took a slightly different tactic to get on the last hold but ended up basically campusing like the rest of them by the end. He flashed the boulder.

Jakob finally got going and after missing the opening run-and-jump 4 times, stuck it his 5th try and climbed to the top. Everybody topped this problem, though some took longer on the run-and-jump than others.

In the end it came down to falls as 3 climbers did 3 problems (so they were the podium) and the rest did 2 problems each. Rustam did his boulders in only 4 tries (2 flash, 1 2nd go) so he won. Kilian was next with 6 tries for his 3 sends. Thomas took 9 goes for his and ended up in 3rd. For the rest of the results and more from this comp use the links below.

Videos – Mina Markovic flashing Sharky! + Highlights

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Breakdown – Women’s 1 & 2

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Problems Breakdown – Women’s 3 & 4

IFSC Bouldering World Cup #3 Log-Dragomer Final Results Men and Women

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