The 2013 SCS National Championships is over and the results are in. Hopefully you all watched the comp on live feed or, if you were in Boulder, in person. The event looked exciting, with 11 women and 9 men in finals (they needed 8 American non-National or Continental Champions in finals, so they took extra until they fulfilled that that need). The routes looked hard, but not short and bouldery like last year’s. Instead, the announcers said that the routes are supposed to be true sport style, with each move progressively a bit harder than the last.
For the men, Daniel Woods qualified in 7th and put on a fantastic performance, looking controlled and powerful throughout. It looked like he might send the route but then he fell on the top headwall. With six men left to go it was probably nerve wracking for him to wait and see how he’d end up. In the end, he dominated the field and walked away with his first SCS National Championship.
Carlo Traversi was one of the top 4 climbers in qualifiers (4 men flashed everything) and Carlo looked very strong on the finals route. He has won SCS Nationals twice (2009 and 2011) and has spent most of the last year traveling and bouldering outside. He looked good moving through the pinch, then fell trying to establish on the headwall. The performance put him just behind Daniel for 2nd place.
Noah Ridge is clearly the up-and-comer to watch, as he did well at both ABS Nationals and SCS Nationals this year. He looked like he had power to spare climbing up the route, got through the pinch, then hit the headwall and flamed out for a proud 3rd place.
Jon Cardwell and Vasya Voritnikov both looked strong through the bottom, then fell suddenly trying to stick what looked like a slopey fat-lip gaston pinch just below the lip of the headwall. Interestingly, Jon and Vasya tied for 4th in the final and had to do a superfinal (to determine who was in 4th, since 4th place makes the National Team and 5th doesn’t), and the superfinal was another lap on the final route. Vasya looked a bit tired but climbed well.
He took a kneebar rest in the middle of the route, then climbed on to the pinch he’d fallen off before. He stuck it, matched it, looked strong, then suddenly a foot slipped and he was off. Jon was next and climbed quickly and confidently through the bottom of the route.
He stuck the pinch where he’d fallen before, matched, and moved onto the headwall.
For a moment it looked like he’d finish the route, but then he fell below Daniel’s highpoint. It was still a fantastic show and impressive that both Vasya and Jon could best their previous efforts on this low-end 5.14 route with a very short rest.
In my opinion, Delaney Miller looked the strongest on the women’s final, climbing solidly through the entire route until she fell two moves from the top in a cruxy section involving a pocket that you had to hit and then rock into and cross off. Delaney hit the pocket well but got lost trying to move out of it and fell. Unlike the other competitors, Delaney didn’t even try to cop a rest on the headwall and instead just kept plugging along until she was suddenly off. A very impressive performance.
Chelsea Rude qualified in 2nd and came out looking strong. Movement is her home gym, and she certainly looked in control through the bottom section of the route. In the headwall she took a rest with both hands on two small holds on the bottom volume of the two on the headwall. The rest looked ok and Chelsea looked fairly relaxed. She went to move up to the next holds on the bottom of the next volume, flubbed it, came back down, and tried to rest again, but she looked more tired. She managed to get up to the next volume holds her next try, but then fell trying to get into the pocket.
French champion Charlotte Durif was here to win the women’s category, and win she did, as the only woman to send the women’s final. She found some kneebars in the top headwall, then after resting a bit executed a perfect dropknee and did a French blow (blowing chalk off her fingers with the relaxed detachment of an old man casually sending your project in Font on his after-work circuit) while moving to the pocket that Delaney had fallen from. From there she matched on the outside of the pocket, threw a heel-hook, crossed to the second to last hold, and easily jumped to the finish. Awesome.
In all fairness, it did sorta kinda look like she might fall here. Maybe. But she didn’t.
So Charlotte won the comp, but she’s not American, so Delaney Miller is our new National Champion! Great job Delaney. As a competitor, it seems like she’s come a long way in the last couple of years and is capable of representing the USA well on the World Circuit. Good luck to her in any international comps she attends this season!
If you want to see more, LT11 should have highlights coming and may have live broadcast replays as well. Their video page is here – LT11
We are SO PROUD of setter and coach Ian Dory, who ended up in 8th after qualis, and coach Tiffany Hensley, who is in 11th. Both will be competing in Semifinals this morning, starting at 11am (watch on live feed here!)
While you are waiting you can watch replays of the qualifiers (most women, last 1/2 of men) here - ABS14 Nationals 2013 Qualifier Replays
We would also like to give a shout out to SBS 8 competitors Megan Mascarenas (1st), Nina Wiliams (5th), Tyler Youngwerth (20th), Kati Peters (21st), and Jesse Youngwerth (22nd); and for the men Daniel Woods (tied for 2nd), Michael O’Rourke (4th), Rob D’Anastasio (5th), Matt Wilder (9th), Jon Cardwell (11th), Ben Hoberg (13th) Matty Hong (14th), and Garrett Gregor (15th) who have all made it into Semifinals.
ALSO props to our previous head setter Carlo Traversi, who qualified in 10th, and to Matt Lubar, who started out at The Spot and was on our youth team for quite a while. Lubar now climbs for Team ABC and he qualified in 21st, just out of finals. He is a regular fixture in SBS comps and did well in SBS Open Finals this year as well.
Nice job everyone!
More Info: ABS Nationals Homepage
Semi’s Live Feed (starting at 11am) - TV | Louder Than 11
From Five Ten we have this video featuring short interviews with some athletes and some highlights:
From Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11, we have the Finals Highlights videos:
And if you are interested in watching more of the comp, these next four videos show every attempt of every competitor on each finals problem. If you watch them all in a row it is similar to watching the whole comp. For those who enjoy competitions, setting, or seeing how different pro climbers approach the same problems.
Ok, so the comp just got over and man was it exciting! Gladiator Jousting, 230 adult competitors and over 150 youth competitors. Food, beer, a huge raffle, and of course beats from rising star DJ Dirt Monkey and a rockin’ pro final! More pictures, full results, and a rundown will come soon, but for tonight here’re the top 3 from the Open Final.
Women’s Final Top 3
1. Megan Mascarenas! For the first time this season Megan qualified for finals in 3rd instead of 1st. Nevertheless, Megan handily flashed the final to secure her fourth win in the four-comp Spot Bouldering Series 7, making her the overall champion of the series and igniting a fire in the crowd who cheered loudly as Megan stuck a huge committing dyno and finished the boulder.
2. Nina Williams! Nina was looking really strong and she qualified for finals in 1st place for the first time this season. She looked strong but it took her two tries to make the 2nd and final send of the final problem for 2nd place overall behind Megan. Nice job Nina!
3. Chauncenia Cox! Chauncey hasn’t been at a Spot comp so far this season but she came on with a vengeance to qualify in 2nd and end up in 3rd overall after statically controlling the dyno stick hold with her off-hand but not being able to move from the position to match it. Thanks for coming out Chauncey!
Men’s Top 3
1. Garrett Gregor! Qualified in 5th, but came out and gave a great flash burn to control hold #8 on his first try. He and the 2nd and 3rd place finishers all made good tries to stick the blue pinch that is the last hold on the problem, but nobody could stay on it so Garrett took the win. Nice job Garrett!!!
2. Jon Cardwell! Jon qualified in 1st over Matty Hong by a few falls. Both sent O10, O9, O8, O7, and O6 and still had enough energy to perform strongly in finals.
3. Matty Hong! Like Jon and Garrett, Matty fell trying to get a hold of that last little blue pinch. They gave the crowd a good show, and hopefully one of these guys will come back and send this rig soon before Carlo gets home from Boston.
More to come tomorrow. But until then, contemplate this:
Carlo ventured down to New Mexico last weekend for the innovative Yank ‘n Yard bouldering competition. What makes it different? Last year the Yank ‘n Yard was the first bouldering comp in the US (maybe the world?) to have hanging volumes. You can check out the video of last year’s colorful finals here–14th Yank-n-Yard Recap. Our very own coach Tiffany Hensley won the women’s category at last year’s event, and Jon Glassberg took 4th in the men’s. This year Jon Carwell won the men’s and Carlo took 2nd.
I have no idea of the results beyond that but I will post them a nd video if I see any. Nice job Carlo!
Update – Thanks to Bryan here are the top results. Notice that Megan Mascarenas, who also won the Open at the Gun Show, won the event.
1st Jon Cardwell, Albuquerque, NM
2nd Carlo Traversi, Boulder CO
3rd Michael O’Rourke, Boulder CO
4th Nicholas Sherman, Boulder, CO
5th Ian Dory, Ft. Collins CO
6th, Asher Shay-Nemirow, Denver, CO
1st Megan Mascarenas, CO Springs, CO
2nd Tyler Youngworth. CO Springs, CO
3rd Jesse Youngworth. CO Springs. CO
4th Sierra Blair-Coyle, Scottsdale, AZ
5th Flannery Shay-Nemirow, Denver, CO
6th Sarah Fullerton, CO Springs, CO
Men’s 2011 SCS Nationals Results
Carlo crushed! He qualified for finals in 3rd place, and when the dust settled he is still in 3rd place, but on the finals route he scored the highest, meaning if they used old-style scoring (score by round and count back if necessary, instead of cumulative scoring) Carlo would have won nationals! As it is, he has earned his place on the US National Team for route climbing, meaning he can compete in the first ropes World Cup to be held in the US since…I don’t know…it has been a long time though. Here are the top men’s final results:
[ranking) name (qualis total) (finals total) (team points total)]
1) Magnus Midtboe (802.40) (94.16) (200.39) *Magnus is not a US citizen so technically Matty Hong is the best American climber at the moment.
2) Matty Hong (800.44) (94.16) (200.10) — US Team 2011
3) Carlo Traversi (755.92) (95.82) (194.84) — US Team 2011
4) Jon Cardwell (712.96) (85.00) (179.19) — US Team 2011
5) Alex Johnson (646.81) (88.33) (172.10)
Just for fun, let’s look at the results if the event was scored on the basis of each round individually (i.e. if you won finals you won the comp). The top 5 results would then be:
1) Carlo Traversi
2) Magnus & Matty tied (after countbacks Magnus would beat Matty, or there’d be a superfinal to determine the 2nd place finisher)
4) Alex Johnson
5) Jon Cardwell
I made a cursory search of USAC’s websites but I was unable to figure out why they score this way or find the document defining the rules, scoring system, and points calculations for SCS Open Nationals. They are not the same as the World Cup system, which, if you are interested, you can attempt to wade through here: IFSC Rules. I’m not sure how long adult SCS has been scored this way, though I believe youth has been scored this way for a while. The goal, as I understand it, is to pick the competitors for the US National team who perform the best throughout the event in hopes of having the strongest team possible at World Cup events. I’m interested to know more if anyone wants to comment.
Women’s 2011 SCS Nationals Results
Sasha DiGiulian maintained her lead and won the comp, being the only competitor in any category to flash her finals route. Like the men’s category, the 2nd best scoring competitor on the finals route (Alex Johnson) ended up in a lower place after the cumulative score was tallied, but she still made the US Ropes Team. I think it’s pretty impressive that AJ managed a top 4 finish at ropes nationals considering she barely ever climbs on a rope, and in fact just got back from a trip to Hueco. In any case:
1) Sasha DiGiulian (785.43) (100.00) (202.81) — US Team 2011
2) Paige Claassen (768.62) (72.55) (176.96) — US Team 2011
3) Dana Riddle (774.65) (61.76) (168.69) — US Team 2011
4) Alex Johnson (655.43) (76.48) (163.33) — US Team 2011
Hopefully some pictures and video will show up soon.
Nice job everyone!