Women’s Final 4
Jump across to a jug undercling/swing catch. Big move (Petra figure 4′ed) to another volume, two volumes with jibs, high right foot on large green volume, press into corner with whole body to finish. The end especially seemed difficult and competitors tried some interesting things.
Dinara – fell, then caught dyno dramatically with one hand, got into volumes but fell.
Petra – did dyno, stylish figure 4, tried some real shenanagins on volumes, fell out of them. No finish.
Melanie – stuck dyno, had trouble moving up.
Katha – slipped off jump, did jump, got to high volumes, fell, back up, left hand on high volume, pressed into corner, sent!
Alex – fell off jump, then did it, fell from volumes b/c wrong hand up first, went again, went left first like Katha did, pressed pressed pressed. Sent! It looked very very close but it worked! Good job Alex!
Shauna – tried to static jump, fell a couple times, stuck it, hiked the top even though she went up right to the top volume and that hosed everyone else who tried it. Very strong effort from Shauna.
Anna – falls off jump. If she sends this climb she wins the comp. Gets back up. Goes right to top volume, seems stuck, eventually gets hands right, stems out, finishes. She wins!
Men’s Final 4
Weird moves from holds on a volume out to another huge volume with a little hold on the edge and another on the tip. Power move up left to the huge bonus blob. Rock up right to arete hold. Sit on bonus, move left to press finish.
Sachi – tried some interesting things to get out, didn’t sort it out.
Rei – wow! Another impressive effort from Rei.
Rei figured out the bottom and then hiked carefully to last move, where he hung out for a while trying to decide what to do.
He finally committed to the dynamic move, rocked left and used his right elbow to press into the wall to keep him from barn dooring out.
It worked, he stuck the finish!
Mayhaylo – went out backwards at the start but made it work!
Up to bonus, stood up on arete, foot up on bonus, couldn’t figure out last move, eventually fell. No send.
Rustam – fell from the start, then worked it out, stood up high at the top, crimped wall panel, left foot to final hold, leaned over, matched, done.
Dmitrii – fell from start repeatedly, after powering out first moves but getting stuck moving to bonus. Doesn’t finish, and it ends this comp but he’s still overall 1st place for the season.
Thomas – If he sends he wins. The crowd is chanting for him. Unfortunately he struggles on bottom, falls repeatedly, doesn’t get through it. Silver.
Because there are so many pictures I am dividing these into problem sets. This is Women’s 3 & 4. 1 & 2 and Men’s coming soon.
Women’s Final 3
This problem involved some steep moves and sequence reading to a committing dyno. The cross under looked powerful, and grabbing two left-facing bubble wraps and jumping out left to the two huge teknik blocs was somewhat intimidating to watch. The dyno produced the correct effect of wild swings and drama for the crowd. From there it was either a long lock off (Alex), a mantle/lock-off (Shauna) or use the arete and stand up (lurch for Anna, casual heel-hook for Jule) to the finish.
Problem 3 Performance:
Anna, Shauna, Alex Johnson – Flash
Jule – 2nd go (fell at dyno first go)
Alex Puccio, Mélanie – flash to bonus, no top
Women’s Final 4
This problem had Team America written all over it. Powerful moves up a steep arete with a dynamic move to a bubble-wrap and a struggle to the finish. Alex and Alex clawed their way up it one after the other. The rest of the competitors had more trouble–with Anna Stöhr taking 5 tries to seal the deal. Shauna almost made it but was too tired in the end to do the last two moves. Jule, after leading through the comp, fell apart here and couldn’t even make it to the bonus hold.
Problem 4 Performance:
Alex Johnson – flash
Alex Puccio – flash
Anna Stohr – bonus 2nd try, top 5th try
Shauna Coxsey – flash to bonus, no top
Mélanie Sandoz – flash to bonus, no top
Juliane Wurm – no bonus, no top
Full Women’s Final Results from IFSC - IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: provisional Resultlist Final W O M E N bouldering
Full Women’s Results for entire comp - IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result W O M E N bouldering
Men’s Coming Soon!