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IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final 4

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Women’s Final 4

Dinara. Yes, it's blurry, but wow.

Dinara. Yes, it’s blurry, but wow.

Jump across to a jug undercling/swing catch. Big move (Petra figure 4’ed) to another volume, two volumes with jibs, high right foot on large green volume, press into corner with whole body to finish. The end especially seemed difficult and competitors tried some interesting things.

Dinara – fell, then caught dyno dramatically with one hand, got into volumes but fell.

Dinara going up to the volumes

Dinara going up to the volumes

Dinara trying to get her head in.

Dinara trying to get her head in.

Petra – did dyno, stylish figure 4, tried some real shenanagins on volumes, fell out of them. No finish.

Petra Klingler trying the arm bar

Petra Klingler trying the arm bar

Melanie – stuck dyno, had trouble moving up.

Katha – slipped off jump, did jump, got to high volumes, fell, back up, left hand on high volume, pressed into corner, sent!

Katha pressing into the corner at the top of final 4

Katha pressing into the corner at the top of final 4

Alex – fell off jump, then did it, fell from volumes b/c wrong hand up first, went again, went left first like Katha did, pressed pressed pressed. Sent! It looked very very close but it worked! Good job Alex!

Alex went right hand up but it worked out.

Alex went right hand up the first time. She looked strong but fell.

Alex using the correct method.

Alex using the correct method.

Alex mantling.

Alex mantling.

Backen-foot and lean across to the finish jib.

Backen-foot and lean across to the finish jib.

Shauna – tried to static jump, fell a couple times, stuck it, hiked the top even though she went up right to the top volume and that hosed everyone else who tried it. Very strong effort from Shauna.

Shauna made this look easy.

Shauna made this look easy.

Shauna pressing with style.

Shauna pressing with style.

Send!

Anna – falls off jump. If she sends this climb she wins the comp. Gets back up. Goes right to top volume, seems stuck, eventually gets hands right, stems out, finishes. She wins!

Anna finishing problem 4

Anna finishing problem 4

~

Men’s Final 4

Rustam going with the swing on Men's Final 4

Rustam going with the swing at the start on Men’s Final 4

Weird moves from holds on a volume out to another huge volume with a little hold on the edge and another on the tip. Power move up left to the huge bonus blob. Rock up right to arete hold. Sit on bonus, move left to press finish.

Sachi – tried some interesting things to get out, didn’t sort it out.

Sacha Amma trying Men's Final 4

Sacha Amma trying to go backwards on Men’s Final 4

Rei – wow! Another impressive effort from Rei.

Rei staring down the arete hold at the top of MF4

Rei staring down the arete hold at the mid top of MF4

Rei figured out the bottom and then hiked carefully to last move, where he hung out for a while trying to decide what to do.

Rei trying to commit to the last move.

Rei trying to commit to the last move.

He finally committed to the dynamic move, rocked left and used his right elbow to press into the wall to keep him from barn dooring out.

Rei using the elbow

Rei using the elbow

It worked, he stuck the finish!

Rei sending Men's Final 4

Rei just after sending Men’s Final 4

Mayhaylo – went out backwards at the start but made it work!

Mahaylo feet first.

Mahaylo feet first.

Mahaylo turning around.

Mahaylo turning around.

Mahaylo looking very strong.

Mahaylo looking very strong on the one arm.

Up to bonus, stood up on arete, foot up on bonus, couldn’t figure out last move, eventually fell. No send.

Rustam – fell from the start, then worked it out, stood up high at the top, crimped wall panel, left foot to final hold, leaned over, matched, done.

Rustam crimping gaston left hand on the wall panel in his chest, left foot first to the finish. He leaned over and matched it for the win.

Rustam crimping gaston left hand on the wall panel in his chest, left foot first to the finish. He leaned over and matched it for the win.

Dmitrii – fell from start repeatedly, after powering out first moves but getting stuck moving to bonus. Doesn’t finish, and it ends this comp but he’s still overall 1st place for the season.

Dmitrii struggling with the volume.

Dmitrii struggling with the volume. He basically jumped and held the swing to the little jib, and it seemed like he was just too pumped to power to the bonus so he was trying to get there via other means, but he wasn’t able to make it work.

Thomas – If he sends he wins. The crowd is chanting for him. Unfortunately he struggles on bottom, falls repeatedly, doesn’t get through it. Silver.

Rei wins!

Vail World Cup 2012 – Women’s Finals 3 & 4

June 6, 2012 1 comment

Because there are so many pictures I am dividing these into problem sets. This is Women’s 3 & 4. 1 & 2 and Men’s coming soon.

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Women’s Final 3

This problem involved some steep moves and sequence reading to a committing dyno. The cross under looked powerful, and grabbing two left-facing bubble wraps and jumping out left to the two huge teknik blocs was somewhat intimidating to watch. The dyno produced the correct effect of wild swings and drama for the crowd. From there it was either a long lock off (Alex), a mantle/lock-off (Shauna) or use the arete and stand up (lurch for Anna, casual heel-hook for Jule) to the finish.

Melanie on the bottom of Final 3

Alex did the cross-under quite well.

Alex Puccio mid prob 3. She couldn’t stick the dyno.

Anna stuck the dyno but couldn’t lock-off to the end so while trying to decide what to do she rested on the blocs.

Anna finally decided to use the arete and worked her way up, then lurched to the top and stuck it.

Alex Johnson about to dyno.

Alex cruised the dyno and could reach the lock off move and did it relatively easily.

Shauna using the both-hands-on-the-low-hold method to stick the swing.

Shauna tried the end, then rested, then tried it again, all without letting go.

Finally Shauna tried mantling the left hand to make the long move to the finish. It’s hard to see but if you look closely you will see that Shauna’s left hand is turned, whereas above Alex’s left hand isn’t.

It worked. She was so relieved.

Jule sticking the dyno on her second try. Look how high she is!

It took her two tries to get here, but once she did Jule casually rocked over on her heel for this last move, making it look way easier than the previous competitors had.

Problem 3 Performance:

Anna, Shauna, Alex Johnson – Flash

Jule – 2nd go (fell at dyno first go)

Alex Puccio, Mélanie – flash to bonus, no top

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Women’s Final 4

This problem had Team America written all over it. Powerful moves up a steep arete with a dynamic move to a bubble-wrap and a struggle to the finish. Alex and Alex clawed their way up it one after the other. The rest of the competitors had more trouble–with Anna Stöhr taking 5 tries to seal the deal. Shauna almost made it but was too tired in the end to do the last two moves. Jule, after leading through the comp, fell apart here and couldn’t even make it to the bonus hold.

I don’t know if Jule was too short or was too tired but she had real trouble with these bottom moves.

Melanie got here ok but couldn’t stick the jump to the half moon bubble wrap.

Alex Johnson sticking the huge swing on the move to the bubble half moon. She swung around a few times and probably should have fallen off except she wasn’t in the mood to let go so instead she magically hung on and continued up.

Shauna Coxsey also stuck this move in dramatic style, but was so tired she could not finish the problem.

Anna Stohr near the top. With right on arete, bump left to crimp on volume, left again to finish.

Alex Puccio made short work of the problem and looked the strongest on each move as she hiked her way to the flash.

Alex Johnson put on her “not letting go” face and absolutely crushed this problem.

Problem 4 Performance:

Alex Johnson – flash

Alex Puccio – flash

Anna Stohr – bonus 2nd try, top 5th try

Shauna Coxsey – flash to bonus, no top

Mélanie Sandoz – flash to bonus, no top

Juliane Wurm – no bonus, no top

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Full Women’s Final Results from IFSC – IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: provisional Resultlist Final W O M E N bouldering

Full Women’s Results for entire comp – IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result W O M E N bouldering

Men’s Coming Soon!

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