We are SO PROUD of setter and coach Ian Dory, who ended up in 8th after qualis, and coach Tiffany Hensley, who is in 11th. Both will be competing in Semifinals this morning, starting at 11am (watch on live feed here!)
While you are waiting you can watch replays of the qualifiers (most women, last 1/2 of men) here - ABS14 Nationals 2013 Qualifier Replays
We would also like to give a shout out to SBS 8 competitors Megan Mascarenas (1st), Nina Wiliams (5th), Tyler Youngwerth (20th), Kati Peters (21st), and Jesse Youngwerth (22nd); and for the men Daniel Woods (tied for 2nd), Michael O’Rourke (4th), Rob D’Anastasio (5th), Matt Wilder (9th), Jon Cardwell (11th), Ben Hoberg (13th) Matty Hong (14th), and Garrett Gregor (15th) who have all made it into Semifinals.
ALSO props to our previous head setter Carlo Traversi, who qualified in 10th, and to Matt Lubar, who started out at The Spot and was on our youth team for quite a while. Lubar now climbs for Team ABC and he qualified in 21st, just out of finals. He is a regular fixture in SBS comps and did well in SBS Open Finals this year as well.
Nice job everyone!
More Info: ABS Nationals Homepage
Semi’s Live Feed (starting at 11am) - TV | Louder Than 11
Sorry it’s taken so long to write up the women’s finals and the rest of the comp, we’ve been really busy resetting. Women’s finals will be up soon–later today or tomorrow night.
If you’ve been in the gym, you’ll see we’ve got new problems up on the Font, River, Dojo, and Back Hueco boulders. More on the Hueco and maybe the Beach tomorrow. Also, Danny will be gone for about a month–he’s headed to France to climb in the World’s Greatest Bouldering Area. Have fun Danny! Today was his last set til he gets back, and he and Connor apparently called each other before work this morning, so Annie took this photo:
More Comp Photos
Several talented photographers were on hand and took some great photos of all rounds at The Gladiator Finals. You can see most of the ones we’ve seen on The Spot Facebook page. You can also link to albums from the photographers. Here are a few shots with links at the bottom in case you haven’t seen ‘em yet.
Stay tuned, more coming soon!!!
There is much to say about the SBS 8 Gladiator Finals! The preliminary round was a nice 3 hour session on boulder problems from 1 Spot to 5++ Spot. This time we had the youth who planned to try and make Open finals compete during the adult session to eliminate the possibility that resting longer after the redpoint session would improve their final results. Here is a rundown of the Men’s Finals Competitors and their prelim performance in order of qualification for finals.
1. Daniel Woods
Daniel came in early and flashed O5 – O10 (only top 5 climbs, so O6, O7, O8, O9, and O10, count for total score), then with a perfect high score of 24,000 he rested up for finals.
2. Matty Hong
Matty went climbing outside all day in Rocky Mountain National Park, then showed up at The Spot just in time to get his 5 climbs and make finals. Matty was the only competitor besides Daniel to log Open 8 in the prelim round. His other climbs were O6, O5, O4, and O3 with 4 total falls for a score of 22,560.
3. Matt Wilder
Matt climbed extremely well, using his mad old-guy skillz to climb O3 – O7 with only 1 fall. Great performance Wilder! We’re always happy to have you. Total prelim score: 22,490.
4. Michael O’Rourke
Young Gun Michael O’Rourke came in next, only 10 pts (1 fall) behind Matt Wilder with the same 5 Open problems and a score of 22,480.
4. Greig Seitz
Tied with O’Rourke was Miramont head setter Greig Seitz with the same problems and falls for the same overall score.
6. Ben Hoberg
One fall behind O’Rourke and Seitz, Ben Hoberg climbed O7-O3 with 3 falls for 22,470.
7. Dave Graham
Legendary climber Dave Graham came in next with the same O7-O3 and 7 falls for 22,430. Dave isn’t much of an indoor climber and rarely competes, so it was a treat to have him show up and have a good time at our event. Thanks for coming Dave!
8. Matt Lubar
Young crusher and multi-time SBS 8 Finalist Matt Lubar was next, just 1 fall behind Dave with 22,420, but he tweaked his back muscle a little in the prelim round and didn’t want to tweak it more before Youth Nationals so he opted out of finals.
9. Remi Arata
This meant our last men’s finalist was 9th ranked Remi Arata. Remi is another up-and-coming young crusher. He was a long-time Team BRC climber who recently switched to ABC. Remi did O6-O2 in the prelim round with 1 fall for 21,990 points.
The Final Problem
The Men’s final problem started on a huge sloper in the middle of the Beach. From there it was power/technique through a few underclings to a standing position on a volume with an overhead press off an e-grips Main Dish and a Teknik Sloper. The idea from this point was to turn and face out, then jump to a very positive undercling in the roof, then a move up to a left pinch, a heel-hook or jump to a right pinch, a powerful cross under to a Teknik fat lip, then a big move out right to another fat lip, then a 1-2 jump to a fat lip near the top of the wall left hand and a juggy fat lip just to the right for the right hand.
Here’s what actually happened:
Remi Arata came out first. First go he fell trying to move his body onto the volume, so 3+ points for holding the Main Dish. Next 2 goes he fell jumping for the undercling, so 5 pts, new highpoint. Next go he stuck the undercling, then did the big move up right to hold 8, then fell. Next go he fell after the undercling.
Score: Hold 8/4th attempt
Dave Graham came out next. He’s self-professed to be bad at competitions, but in this case he put on an amazing performance, sprinting through the start of the problem, sticking the jump to the undercling, doing a mega-huge cross to hold 9 (the first fat lip, and the move he did was huge! Nobody saw it coming, and the crowd went crazy!), sticking hold 10 (the right fat lip), doing the big move to hold 11 (the high fat lip just before the final hold) and then falling trying to stick it. He struggled with the jump to the undercling on his next goes, but his spectacular performance was a real highlight for the crowd and for the setters.
Ben Hoberg has been a strong competitor this season, though he currently has a huge cut on his thumb and hasn’t been climbing a ton. Nevertheless, he put on a good show, falling from the jump 4 times before sticking it the 5th time and continuing to the high right pinch (hold 8) before falling.
Greig Seitz has also been doing well at SBS comps this year, and this final was no exception. After 1 fall on the jump he stuck it 2nd go, went up left to the left pinch (hold 7), then fell trying to stick hold 8. Next go he went straight to hold 8 but fell trying to lower out and establish well enough to move towards hold 9.
Mike O’Rourke was next and he, too, took a few goes to get through the bottom of the problem, falling from the jump twice before sticking it and getting to hold 8. He also fell trying to come out onto the hold and continue.
Matt Wilder had a lot of trouble with the jump, standing in the corner for a while and trying all sorts of different methods to get to the undercling without having to dyno for it. He got into some pretty strange positions but unfortunately none of them worked.
Matty Hong also took 2 goes to get through the jump, and on his 2nd go when he stuck it he moved up to hold 7 (in sequence) but fell going to hold 8. Next go he fell from the jump again. Next go he got to hold 7 again but fell trying to stick hold 8.
Finally Daniel Woods came out.
Sometimes technical sequences cause downfalls, and first go Daniel fell getting into the position on the volume and main dish. Not to be deterred, he approached the problem with a new method.
Daniel is probably the most powerful climber on the planet, and he proved it again by avoiding the jump entirely, instead pressing his way with smear feet up into an undercling position on the main dish. The move he did was seriously, seriously difficult. From there he reached easily to the undercling, demonstrated some more raw power and perfect tension as he moved out right through the fat lips, and prepared for the jump to the top holds. He tried heel-hooking, toeing in, and all sorts of body positions, but he couldn’t seem to find one he was comfortable trying. Finally he went for the heel-hook, but it popped mid move and he was off. Next go he looked seriously pumped but he moved through the undercling press much more easily, then fell from the same top move.
Many of the competitors got back on the top of the problem after the final was over to try the last moves. Daniel ended up doing the jump we intended, a 1-2 left hand-right hand to the top fat lip and the finish jug. Michael O’Rourke went right hand to the top fat lip, then crossed under to the end jug. Spectators stuck around to watch and it was really cool to see the climbers figure out the top.
1. Dave Graham
Dave got highpoint on his first try, and it was matched by Daniel but on Daniel’s 2nd try. Dave won! He said this is the first comp he thinks he’s won since the 90′s!
2. Daniel Woods
3. Michael O’Rourke (tie)
3. Greig Seitz (tie)
On the final Greig went 5+, 7+, 8; Mike went 5, 5, 8, 3. We score highpoint and attempts to highpoint for finals, then for countbacks we drop back to the previous round, which in this case was also a tie, so they tied for 3rd overall.
5. Remi Arata
6. Ben Hoberg
7. Matty Hong
From the way the problem was set, you could go to hold 7 or hold 8 from hold 6. Going directly to hold 8 was supposed to be a dead end, though Daniel Woods went that way and made it work. Dave skipped directly from hold 6 to hold 9 in a display that astounded the setters and the crowd.
8. Matt Wilder
Dave had some big-time fans from Venezuela:
And finally, here’s what happens when you spend the night at a father-daughter dance, then race to the gym to get scoring done:
Stay tuned for the women’s final and more comp photos coming soon!!!
More photos on The Spot Facebook! (click the link in the right sidebar).
SBS Highlines & Highballs Open Results + Commercials – Alex Honnold & Katie Brown, and Chris Sharma selling watches?!
Highballs & Highlines Open Finals Results
Yes, it was exciting. As usual. Three members of Boulder’s Team ABC made finals, giving the start of the finals some orange flair. On top of that, we staggered start times due to a men’s finals no show, so our 2nd girl ABC’er and 1st guy ABC’er ended up climbing at the same time. There was SO MUCH ORANGE! I’ll write up a longer rundown later, but til then here are the results:
1. Alex “Socks” Johnson (fumbled the accursed BEAR CLAW!)
2. Matty Hong (1 move below Alex)
3. Garrett Gregor (we messed up scoring a little at comp time, Garrett actually earned 7- so he should have been 3rd)
4. Alex Manikowski (6+)
5. Michael O’Rourke (6+, qualified lower than Alex M so in 5th actually instead of 3rd)
6. Matt Lubar (6+, last qualifier so in 6th here)
1. Megan Mascarenas (flash!)
2. Nina Williams (14-)
3. Tiffany Hensley (13-, top qualifier of the next 4 climbers)
4. Isabelle Goodacre (13-)
5. Gabi Masse (13-)
6. Jesse Youngwerth (7)
I can’t find any more pictures of it yet, so here’s a picture of Maddie in the youth section of the comp.
You may have seen this recent Citibank Ad featuring Alex Honnold and Katie Brown.
No, that is not Katie’s voice. You can read an interesting blog about how that all went down on Beth Rodden’s Blog.
But you probably didn’t know that Chris Sharma ditched his hot Spanish lifestyle and went climbing in Italy. Well, check this out:
He ties the rope, but did you see him use it?
We’re glad to see that climbers are finally getting paychecks from other industries!
Highballs & Highlines Results & Reset
We will be resetting Monday – Friday in the mornings. If you want to climb only comp style go to The Spot today. Tomorrow afternoon (after 4 is a safe bet) there will be at least 1 new wall for you. Etc. for the rest of the week until the gym is fairly full.
The rest of the SBS 7 Highballs & Highlines Wrap Up is coming later this week. Photos, full results, and more. Stay tuned, and see you at The Spot!
The rest of the results will be up soon (preliminaries at least) but here are the top results from the open final. We had 6 men and 7 women due to a tie for women’s 6th, and we couldn’t take 7 men cause we had a tie for men’s 7th, which would have meant 8 men, which would have meant finals would have run quite long.
Men’s Open Final
I really hope someone took video of this. The guys started on the far left side of the Beach. After a few moves straight up they were handed a bone that was hung with chain from the rafters. They had to jump and swing across the huge open space to grab a large incut jug ledge just left of the center bulge of the Beach. From there they had to down climb and then climb in a semicircle out and right before heading up again into the left side of the bulge.
Matty Hong got the furthest on his flash go and to the same place on his second try, and he ended up falling around 3 holds from the finish. Spot setter Garrett Gregor, who did not set at all for this event, came in 2nd because he fell grabbing at a hold that Matty held. From there people fell off in various places across the semicircle traverse, except the first competitor who didn’t manage to stick the swing. The swing was definitely difficult and took several competitors several tries to stick. Adam Markert, who came out 2nd, stuck it straight away though to the great delight of the crowd and proceeded to spiderman around on the jug for a while before continuing on the problem. Gun Show winner Michael O’Rourke almost didn’t stick the swing, but after several goes he worked it out and made his way down and through part of the traverse. Michael and Alex “socks” Johnson both climb in socks, and for this comp they had matching knee socks that kind of glowed in the blacklight.
It is worth nothing that for the men’s final qualification it came down to falls, meaning that the two guys who tied for 7th, BRC setter Seth Lytton and Logan Jauernigg, were only 2 falls behind 6th place John Brock, and Seregi Kiefel, who qualified in 9th, was only 2 falls behind them.
Men’s Open Final Results
1. Matty Hong
2. Garrett Gregor
3. Adam Markert
4. Alex Johnson
5. Micahel O’Rourke
6. John Brock
The women’s open final started opposite the men’s, with a few hard moves up the right side of the Beach followed by a bone zip-line and a difficult campus move to a jug, followed by a drop down, more mini jugs, another bone, and some hard moves out left where you were supposed to bicycle the bone and then swing your feet around to a heel hook.
That’s not exactly how things went but I don’t have time to lay it all out this second so I’m gonna post this for now and fill in later. Ok, updated now.
Kara Caputo came out first and after a bit of difficulty with the mantle at the beginning deftly rode the zip-line and campused off the end to the first mini jug. She climbed through the small drop down, up the next mini jugs, grabbed the next bone, jump-campus-match-campused to the next mini jug (out left on the right side of the Beach’s overhanging bulge) and then fell campus-crossing to the next hold even further left. Her 2nd go yielded the same result.
Rachel came out next, as she and Kara were tied going into finals. She fell in the same place as Kara on her first go, and then got there once or maybe even twice more before running out of time.
Note – The idea with the 2nd bone was to bicycle the bottom of the bone with your feet so as you moved out left your foothold would sort of extend with you. No competitors seemed to think of this solution though, as, like Kara who tried campusing and Rachel who tried bicycling the bone at the top, everybody either bicycled at the top and therefore were unable to extend all the way left with their feet still on, or abandoned the foot and tried to do the extremely difficult campus move cross left to the sidepull jug. The other pitfall of bicycling the top of the bone is that the bone will suddenly flip and drop you off like a trick trapdoor. This happened to Rachel at least once and Sierra and Nina as well (if I remember correctly).
Paige had a ton of trouble with the zip line and using sport climbing technique couldn’t seem to figure out how to stay high enough on the zip line to catch the next jug.
Tyler Youngwerth whipped right through the zip line and fell higher twice, the 2nd time at Kara and Rachel’s highpoint. Tyler also tried the campus maneuver but was stymied.
Nina Williams, who sets at Miramont out of Fort Collins and is sponsored by event sponsor Vertical Girl, came out next and did almost the same as Tyler, falling at the cruxy cross after trying the campus method.
Sierra Blair-Coyle, visiting from Arizona with Rachel Pienknagura, had a bit of trouble with the zip line at first but once she figured it out she climbed past the previous climbers’ highpoints and got a hand around the corner onto a foot jib but was unable to grab the next handhold. If she’d bicycled the bone down lower she might have been able to keep moving out left with her feet on, as it was she tried the jump-campus twice but was not successful.
Finally, Gun Show winner, 13 year-old Megan Mascarenas of Colorado Springs, came out in her Verve pants, Mad Rocks, and glowing cat ears to give the problem a go. The crowd was worried as she fell over and over from the zip line. Finally she stopped to rest and re-examine the end of the problem. After working through the sequence in her mind she grabbed the start holds, stuck the zip line move, and proceeded to hike the rest of the problem. When she encountered the difficult section at the lip of the bulge she CAMPUSED through it–campusing from the hold everyone else fell off to stick the hold Sierra fell off, then campusing to the foothold, to the next left handhold, and, after trying and rejecting the left foot heel hook, campusing her left hand up AGAIN to the next high hand hold. After that she put her foot on, crossed into a gaston, and casually rocked out left to the finish hold. The crowd went absolutely nuts. The future of climbing was once again on display at the Spot open finals, and Megan’s performance was amazing, impressive, and most of all inspiring–an fantastic ending to a wonderful evening.
Women’s Open Final Results
1. Megan Mascarenas
2. Sierra Blair-Coyle
tie for 3rd:
3. Kara Caputo
3. Rachel Pienknagura
5. Tyler Youngwerth
6. Nina Williams
7. Paige Claassen
Carlo ventured down to New Mexico last weekend for the innovative Yank ‘n Yard bouldering competition. What makes it different? Last year the Yank ‘n Yard was the first bouldering comp in the US (maybe the world?) to have hanging volumes. You can check out the video of last year’s colorful finals here–14th Yank-n-Yard Recap. Our very own coach Tiffany Hensley won the women’s category at last year’s event, and Jon Glassberg took 4th in the men’s. This year Jon Carwell won the men’s and Carlo took 2nd.
I have no idea of the results beyond that but I will post them a nd video if I see any. Nice job Carlo!
Update – Thanks to Bryan here are the top results. Notice that Megan Mascarenas, who also won the Open at the Gun Show, won the event.
1st Jon Cardwell, Albuquerque, NM
2nd Carlo Traversi, Boulder CO
3rd Michael O’Rourke, Boulder CO
4th Nicholas Sherman, Boulder, CO
5th Ian Dory, Ft. Collins CO
6th, Asher Shay-Nemirow, Denver, CO
1st Megan Mascarenas, CO Springs, CO
2nd Tyler Youngworth. CO Springs, CO
3rd Jesse Youngworth. CO Springs. CO
4th Sierra Blair-Coyle, Scottsdale, AZ
5th Flannery Shay-Nemirow, Denver, CO
6th Sarah Fullerton, CO Springs, CO