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IFSC Lead World Cup Finals! – MEN’S Results

October 9, 2011 Leave a comment

The sole American man in finals and the first guy to climb, Matty Hong of Boulder put on a great showing in his first lead world cup final. The crowd screamed non-stop for him as he worked his way though through some creative sequencing to an almost Rifle-esque kneebar rest on a good tufa with insecure feet. He fell off a couple of holds later (grabbing at the orange hold on the next green volume above him) and finished in 6th!

The highpoint on the men’s route was taken by Austrian Jakob Schubert, for his 6th lead world cup win in a row. You can see the holds in the picture above–Jakob fell off slapping at the first orange hold above the lip up on the left.

The 2nd place competitor, Sachi Amma of Japan (who was in the lead for the whole comp til this point) fell moving from the top green volume to the small orange pinch up and left of it.

3rd place finisher Romain Desgranges of France also fell here, but Sachi was ahead after semis and that broke the tie. Manuel Romain, also of France, came in next and fell from almost the same place but did not get credit for touching the pinch and therefore was scored at 33+ (positive movement off of hold 33) instead of 34- (touched usable surface on hold 34) like Romain and Sachi were.

5th place went to Jorg Verhoeven of the Netherlands. Jorg stuck the hold Matty jumped at, giving him 30 points and Matty 29+.

Finally, Sean McColl (CAN) and Ramón Julian Pugiblanque of Spain were tied for the whole comp and it was heartbreaking to see first Sean and then Ramón slip unexpectedly early in the route at a dyno to two fairly good holds.  Sean fell from both holds, earning 18- and 7th place, and Ramón touched only one, earning 17- and 8th place.

Romain Desgranges in 3rd, Sachi Amma in 2nd, Jakob Schubert taking top honors.

Full Men’s Results

IFSC Lead World Cup – Semis Results + pictures. FINALS TONIGHT!

October 9, 2011 1 comment

Canadian Mike Doyle leading off the semifinals round. The beginning of the route was powerful with long moves that some of the shorter competitors seemed to struggle on.

Two Americans made finals!  Sasha DiGiulian finished in 7th and Matty Hong finished in 8th!  We are also very proud of Carlo, who stuck a few hard moves at the end of his try to the delight of the crowd. Finals are tonight at 7pm. Read on for more pictures, a semis rundown, and links to the full semis results.

Scott Mechler interviews celebrity belay team Lynn Hill and Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou before the start of the semifinal round.

Carlo Traversi. He stuck the next hold and fell on the cross to the 1st blue hold above the volumes. At the time it was the best performance and was met with huge cheers from the audience. Carlo took 11th.

American Chelsea Rude stayed strong through this cruxy section and fell off near the next clip. Her performance was 2nd best for American women and earned her 11th place.

Paige Claassen ties the rope so fast her hands are a blurr! She and Katharina Saurwein of Austria await their turns on the semfinal route. Paige did well but fell on a difficult move to a pinch on the top of the volume-man and ended up in 13th overall. Katharina took 17th.

Matty Hong powering his way into finals in 8th place. He was the first competitor to stick the big black pinch a few moves higher, and that stick was enough to get him into finals. Nice job Matty!!!

Austrian Johanna Ernst literally hiked the route, climbing casually all the way to the anchor for the first (and one of only 2) sends. Johanna was one of 11 girls tied for 1st place after qualifiers. The routesetters had quite a task in separating these 11 girls into 8 un-tied girls with this single semifinal route, but they mostly succeeded.

Canadian Sean McColl came out and raced his way up the route, blowing past previous highpoints and establishing a new one near the top of the headwall. In this picture Sean is doing a stylish clip with a right hand undercling and both his feet bicycling a pinch out left. Photographer Caroline Treadway out right is taking his picture.

Spanish superstar Ramón Julian Pugiblanque nearing the top of the wall. He was only the second competitor to get this high after Canadian Sean McColl. He and Sean fell at the same place and ended semis tied for 2nd after semis.

Caroline Treadway spent most of the comp high on the sidewall taking pictures of the competitors. Here she shoots Austrian Jakob Schubert as he muscles toward the headwall. Schubert made it up to the three giant myorcean tufas above and fell matching in--one move before Ramón Julian Pugiblanque and Sean McColl fell.

Slovenian Maja Vidmar dropkneeing her way through the top of the semifinal. She looked strong on on the road to sending before both feet slipped off a bit higher and sent her off. She still ended up in 4th and will climb in finals tonight.

Top-ranked qualifier Sachi Amma of Japan, the only man to flash both his qualifiers yesterday, matched this highpoint in semis with Canadian Sean McColl and Spanish Ramón Julian Pugiblanque. All 3 fell off jumping for the next small e-grips pinch that was the last hold before the finish.

Slovenian Mina Markovich styling a dropknee near the top of the women's semifinal. Mina was the last to climb and previously only Austrian Johanna Ernst, who flashed the route, got as high as Mina is here.

Mina Markovic flashed the semifinal to maintain her place in a 1st place tie with Johanna Ernst. Here she is clipping the anchor clip--a move which seemed to be the last crux of the route as both competitors to get here hesitated before clipping. The rest of the 11 girls who were tied for first after qualifiers spread out into a 4th place tie and 4 other separated competitors.

Woman Finalists

1. Johanna Ernst (AUT)

1. Mina Markovic (SLO)

3. Momoka Oda (JPN)

4. Charlotte Durif (FRA)

4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)

6. Angela Eiter (AUT)

7. Sasha DiGiulian (USA) <———–!!!!!!

8. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Semis result W O M E N lead

 

Male Finalists

1. Sachi Amma (JPN)

2. Ramón Julian Pugiblanque (ESP)

2. Sean McColl (CAN)

4. Jakob Schubert (AUT)

5. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

6. Romain Desgranges (FRA)

7. Manuel Romain (FRA)

8. Matty Hong (USA) <——————–!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Semis result M E N lead

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