Munich Final Results
Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!
Munich Men’s Final Results
This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.
Season Overall Podiums
Women’s Final 4
Jump across to a jug undercling/swing catch. Big move (Petra figure 4′ed) to another volume, two volumes with jibs, high right foot on large green volume, press into corner with whole body to finish. The end especially seemed difficult and competitors tried some interesting things.
Dinara – fell, then caught dyno dramatically with one hand, got into volumes but fell.
Petra – did dyno, stylish figure 4, tried some real shenanagins on volumes, fell out of them. No finish.
Melanie – stuck dyno, had trouble moving up.
Katha – slipped off jump, did jump, got to high volumes, fell, back up, left hand on high volume, pressed into corner, sent!
Alex – fell off jump, then did it, fell from volumes b/c wrong hand up first, went again, went left first like Katha did, pressed pressed pressed. Sent! It looked very very close but it worked! Good job Alex!
Shauna – tried to static jump, fell a couple times, stuck it, hiked the top even though she went up right to the top volume and that hosed everyone else who tried it. Very strong effort from Shauna.
Anna – falls off jump. If she sends this climb she wins the comp. Gets back up. Goes right to top volume, seems stuck, eventually gets hands right, stems out, finishes. She wins!
Men’s Final 4
Weird moves from holds on a volume out to another huge volume with a little hold on the edge and another on the tip. Power move up left to the huge bonus blob. Rock up right to arete hold. Sit on bonus, move left to press finish.
Sachi – tried some interesting things to get out, didn’t sort it out.
Rei – wow! Another impressive effort from Rei.
Rei figured out the bottom and then hiked carefully to last move, where he hung out for a while trying to decide what to do.
He finally committed to the dynamic move, rocked left and used his right elbow to press into the wall to keep him from barn dooring out.
It worked, he stuck the finish!
Mayhaylo – went out backwards at the start but made it work!
Up to bonus, stood up on arete, foot up on bonus, couldn’t figure out last move, eventually fell. No send.
Rustam – fell from the start, then worked it out, stood up high at the top, crimped wall panel, left foot to final hold, leaned over, matched, done.
Dmitrii – fell from start repeatedly, after powering out first moves but getting stuck moving to bonus. Doesn’t finish, and it ends this comp but he’s still overall 1st place for the season.
Thomas – If he sends he wins. The crowd is chanting for him. Unfortunately he struggles on bottom, falls repeatedly, doesn’t get through it. Silver.
Women’s Final 1
This problem looked really balancy, and nearly everyone fell at least once, often many times. The top looked particularly challenging as it was necessary to press off a low foot and do some hand maneuvering, then get a high right foot and rock up onto it while pulling on the small holds and volume to the finish.
Dinara Fakhritdinova – bonus
Petra Klingler – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top
Melanie Sandoz – flash
Katha Saurwein – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top
Alex Puccio – flash to bonus, fell. didn’t finish
Shauna Coxsey – falling, bonus, not sure her highpoint
Anna Stöhr – falling, bonus…
After Anna fell off the bottom a few more times she got back up, instead of matching put right on gaston, left into the undercling she’s trying to match on in the pic above, right to volume, grabbed the top! Only the 2nd send of the boulder and it puts her in 2nd as Melanie flashed.
Men’s Final 1
Sachi Amma – 0
Rei Sugimoto – 0
Mykhaylo Shalagin – 0
Rustam Gelmanov – 0
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov – 0
Thomas Tauporn – 0
Women’s Final 2
The announcers said they thought you were supposed to go to the left side of the volume, but the girls jumped straight up one two left and then right to the high right dish. From there left hand flip to catch the swing (Dinara didn’t flip), then squeeze left on the volume/bonus, left again to undercling, high feet, stand up to finish.
Dinara – flash
Petra – falling, does sweet jump with left hand flip for the catch, finishes the problem with 2 knees and a heel hook.
Melanie – falls, bonus, falls, no send. Keeps falling trying to get left hand to upper left undercling for last move.
Katha – eventual send
Alex – flash
Shauna – flash
Anna – flash
Men’s Final 2
Blobs, arete, press into an volume, move around the volume to the finish.
Sachi – bonus
Rei – scroll down:
Mykhaylo – no top, bonus?
Rustam – looked good, got bonus, fell getting feet up. Falls again, calls to crowd for support, falls again, Heel blows, falls again.
Dmitrii – sends 2nd go and in 1st now.
Thomas – sends! Several goes. In 2nd now.
Rei is now in 3rd.
The stage, the crowd, and the walls all looked incredible at this event. Dmitrii is World Champion, Kilian won silver, and Rustam Bronze. The other three finalists were Canada’s Sean McColl, Germany’s Jan Hojer, and Japan’s Rei Sugimoto.
Here are some random shots and info from finals:
Everybody flashed but Dmitrii, who flashed to bonus, then fell 3 times before getting top on his 4th go. This put him in last going into problem 2.
Killian flashed, putting him in the lead. Sean got bonus and sent 2nd go, putting him in 2nd. If you get to the top without touching bonus you still get bonus points. Dmitrii got bonus and finished the problem 3rd go, giving him 1 send to match everyone else’s performance on men’s 1. Jan flashed to bonus but didn’t finish the problem. Rei and Rustam didn’t even get bonus.
Mantle to difficult movement out right to bonus. Dmitrii took a brave tactic and flashed. Rustam got bonus and sent 2nd go. Nobody else really got anywhere, all falling on the rightward move to the bonus hold.
This problem was on the far right wall and was supposed to be fairly easy compared to the previous two. It certainly seemed to be the case as everyone sent, Dmitrii, Kilian, Rustam, and Jan flashing, Sean getting bonsus and send 2nd go, and Rei flashing to bonus but then falling and also sending 2nd go.
All the competitors stood for the crowd. As they were going back behind the wall, Dmitrii’s girlfriend ran in and jumped on him. It was just like a sports movie. : )
Men’s paraclimbing, Blind 1 Division finals was up next and we watched 3 blind guys climb as far as they could up a 7B+ route with an assistant shouting (or using a headset and walkie talkie) to help them find their way. More on that in the next post.
Really the thing to do is to watch these live or watch the replays. Go here: IFSC World Climbing Championships 2012
More coverage for Men’s 3 and 4, Men’s podiums, all Women’s finals and podiums, semifinals, and qualifiers can be found via links at the bottom of this article.
Kilian Fischhuber came out first and climbed easily to the bonus hold, then fell bumping out left on it through the sea of orange triangles.
Next go he again climbed easily to the bonus and slipped off in the same place. 3rd go was the same. 4th and 5th he slipped off trying a double dyno for the opposing triangle volumes out left.
Rustam came next and climbed easily to the bonus but, like Kilian, slipped off trying to move on from there. It seems this problem is very delicate and any balance mistake means the climber is right off. 2nd go was a similar situation, he fell again by slipping off the early volumes. Next go he got up and kept his balance, moving slowly right on a foot perch through the triangle volumes and to the finish of the the boulder.
Jeremy Bonder came out next. I don’t know that I’ve ever seen this guy before but he is crushing at this comp. 1st go he jumped right on the wall and moved through the bonus hold and out right, then slipped off trying to move his other hand and body out right to catch up with his right hand. 3rd go was the same, he got his right hand out right but couldn’t get his other hand or feet over before slipping. Next go he did it again, but this time he quickly got his feet up and looked in better position to move out right with the match. Unfortunately instead of matching he again moved his right hand out way right and couldn’t hold the next volume as a gaston–he was too extended. He got back on the wall one more time, made his extended gaston work, got his feet back up, matched, moved right, and finished the boulder! Amazing.
Tito (Thomas Caleyron) came out next and looked good moving up through the bonus and out right before suddenly slipping off. 2nd go he got even farther out right but with his feet low he slipped matching his left hand in to the left little triangle. Last go he had the same problem and fell in the same place.
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov came next. Dmitrii did very well last year and is a regular finalist. He is also currently ranked 1st in the world. For this first final he came out and stood up on the first volume, then fell matching it. I’m not sure that he touched the bonus hold on his way by–hopefully he did or it may come back to harm him. 2nd go he definitely pressed against the bonus hold, then fell again trying to stand up and balance. 3rd go he seemed in better position to move right but slipped. 4th go? I think this is 4th go. He again slipped at the bottom. 5th go was the same.
Rei Sugimoto came out last. First go he slipped off the first move. Second go he was more careful and stood up to the bonus hold, then trying to move out right didn’t get his right foot up and fell. The feed cut out so I’m not sure how the next go went, but then he fell again trying to move around the bonus volume and out right. He fell again at least once, then somehow magically stuck the holds out right, got his foot up, and levitated his way to the finish.
Kilian came out and hiked the problem, confidently throwing through the cross double-dyno and celebrating at the top.
Rustam came out and climbed to the cross-dyno, but tried to go with only one hand and didn’t have enough height to stick the sloper. Kilian’s method looks to be the best as the holds are slopey pinches and using them in opposition is probably the best way to stick them.
Next go Rustam jumped a little harder and easily stuck the dyno one-two and finished the problem, doing a 1 arm pull up on the last hold, perhaps to apologize for having messed up the problem on his first go.
Jeremy came out and slipped off the first move. He didn’t seem to even grab the hold, just put his hand on it and slid off. 2nd go he again fell off the move. He fell there again, and a fourth time he stuck it for a second and then fell. Fifth go he got up a little better and stuck the hold, matched it, kept it as his feet cut and helicoptered, then fell doing the big move to the bonus hold. Next go he got up there again and nearly stuck the bonus hold but didn’t get quite high enough. With 10 seconds left he got back on the wall, did the first move again, and fell grabbing the bonus again without scoring for it.
Tito came next and also slipped off the first hold. Next go he got through the first move, stuck the bonus, committed to the double cross dyno, and finished the problem.
Dmitrii came out and after tentatively moving though the first move flashed the problem. Most interesting was his catch of the double dyno–he used the right arete of the wall for his right hand catch instead of the right hand hold.
Once he stopped the swing he stood up and finished the boulder.
Rei came out and climbed through the bottom well, though the move to the bonus looked very long for him. He stuck the undercling out right but fell on the cross dyno after not quite jumping high enough and bringing both hands up. The fall was unexpected and awkward and the announcers said he seems to have tweaked his right ankle a bit. He kept trying to gear up for the next go and then backing off, preparing himself 100% to try and send. He got back on, climbed again to the dyno, and again fell trying to catch it. He’s got a physio looking at his right ankle, which he seems to have tweaked. Instead of climbing again he is sitting down letting the physio work on his ankle, and his time ran out. He seemed to be mostly ok as he walked off the mat.
Use the links below to see Finals 3 & 4 and the final results for men in Vienna as well as Women’s Finals and all categories qualifiers and semis.
More coverage on Men’s 1 & 2 and all Women’s Finals. See bottom of this article for links.
Kilian came out, easily locked off and stuck the bonus hold with his left hand, then tried to bump his left hand up again and skip part of a difficult looking sequence by doing so. Instead he fell, but he may try that method again as he was close.
2nd go he came out and skipped the bonus hold as he’d already touched it. The method worked and he seemed to easily climb to the top.
Rustam came out, static-ed easily through the crimps, used the top crimps as double gastons, and easily crossed to the finish for the flash.
Jeremy came out, did the first move easily, and was leaning back to do the second move when his left hand blew off the hold, dropping him to the mats on his side and leaving his fingers in pain it looked like. 2nd and 3rd go he fell moving out right from that first left hand, both times looking at his left finger tips which seem to be in pain. He fell off that move again, and maybe another time, before sticking it and moving out left to the crimp. He got his feet up and went to move to the next hold, but fell trying to move without getting anywhere.
Tito came out and climbed once and immediately there was a technical–a foothold crumbled off the wall. The setters were called out to replace it. He had to sit on the mat facing the audience while they fixed it. He climbed to the bonus hold, though I’m not 100% sure he stuck it enough to get credit for it. 3rd go he got the bonus again, then struggled to move his next hand up off it and slipped and he was done.
Once again there were feed problems so I don’t have any pictures of Tito on this one either.
Dmitrii came out, powered through the setters’ intended sequence in the bonus match, then fell jumping for the last hold. Rustam looked a little at risk for falling there as well on his go but he moved slowly and stuck the finish.
Dmitrii jumped a little too much to stick the slopey-looking last hold. 2nd go Dmitrii did the same bottom sequence but a bit faster. He went slightly slower to the top hold and stuck it for the send.
Rei came last, even though his ankle was slightly injured they wrapped it for him in blue tape and he seemed to be walking fine. The taping abilities of the physios are pretty extraordinary, and he seemed to be standing on the ankle like normal. He climbed up to the bonus hold and seemed to control it but he fell trying to match his left hand up as Dmitrii had. 2nd go he fell on the 2nd move that had given Jeremy Bonder so much trouble. He rested again before his 3rd go, then did what Kilian did and skipped the bonus hold (having already controlled it) and climbed to the top.
On his flash go Kilian made it through the sideways jump, up the slopers, then fell off grabbing the final hold–a slippery triangle volume like those that had given people trouble earlier in the day.
Next go he came out and caught the last hold, holding the swing and then using a foot bicycle to match hands for the send.
Rustam came out next with high pressure knowing that Kilian had done it quickly (but maybe not that high as Rustam had sent every problem thus far and nobody else had). He climbed the problem in 40 seconds to assure his gold medal and his second win in a row in a bouldering world cup.
Jeremy Bonder came out and fell off the sideways jump. 2nd go he tried the finger in the bolt hole but fell again. Same for his 3rd go. And his 4th. And again.
And maybe even again. And then what happened? Again Jeremy tried, looking like he had no chance, and somehow stuck the move he’d fallen off several times before, made it through the rest of the problem, and sent!
Tito came out and flashed? The feed cut out, but he did it fast, first or second go.
Dmitrii flashed the problem easily to assure his silver medal.
Finally Rei came out, stood up, missed the side jump and smacked his hip and side on the volume. Second go he tried to jump both feet to the volume and grab the hold as a gaston with his right hand.
3rd go he stepped correctly and used his left hand and stuck the jump, then hit the bonus, then slipped off the holds before the last jump suddenly when his left hand slipped and he lost his balance.
Next go he again got through the bottom, kept his body in and did the huge move to the last hold, which he stuck for the send.
Men’s Final Results
IFSC Vail World Cup 2011 Finals Rundown Problems 3 and 4 + Women’s Highlights Video. UPDATE – Men’s Highlight Video
Ok, so with another round of pictures, here is a brief rundown of problems 3 and 4. At the bottom are two highlights videos with all the finals problems.
Final finals (i.e. problem 4s)
So there it is. Everyone gave great efforts and gave the crowd a great show. For the final results post, click here: Vail IFSC World Cup Bouldering 2011 Final Results and for the rundown of problems 1 and 2 click here.
Problem 3 recap
Anna – f
Alex – f
Melissa – 3rd go
Jain – no top, no bonus
Akiyo – no top, no bonus
Angie – no top, no bonus
Kilian – f
Dmitry – f
Jonas – 3rd go
Rei – 8th go
Guillaume – no top, 3rd go bonus
Chris – no top, no bonus
Problem 4 recap
Anna – f
Alex – f
Melissa – no top, 1st go bonus
Jain – 2nd go
Akiyo – 3rd go
Angie – no top, 2nd go bonus
Kilian – f
Dmitry – f
Jonas – no top, 1st go bonus
Rei – no top, 3rd go bonus
Guillaume – no top, 2nd go bonus
Chris – no top, 4th go bonus
Finals Highlights Videos
Here are two short videos from Louder Than 11 featuring the Women’s and Men’s Finals.