Munich Final Results
Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!
Munich Men’s Final Results
This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.
Season Overall Podiums
Women’s Final 4
Jump across to a jug undercling/swing catch. Big move (Petra figure 4′ed) to another volume, two volumes with jibs, high right foot on large green volume, press into corner with whole body to finish. The end especially seemed difficult and competitors tried some interesting things.
Dinara – fell, then caught dyno dramatically with one hand, got into volumes but fell.
Petra – did dyno, stylish figure 4, tried some real shenanagins on volumes, fell out of them. No finish.
Melanie – stuck dyno, had trouble moving up.
Katha – slipped off jump, did jump, got to high volumes, fell, back up, left hand on high volume, pressed into corner, sent!
Alex – fell off jump, then did it, fell from volumes b/c wrong hand up first, went again, went left first like Katha did, pressed pressed pressed. Sent! It looked very very close but it worked! Good job Alex!
Shauna – tried to static jump, fell a couple times, stuck it, hiked the top even though she went up right to the top volume and that hosed everyone else who tried it. Very strong effort from Shauna.
Anna – falls off jump. If she sends this climb she wins the comp. Gets back up. Goes right to top volume, seems stuck, eventually gets hands right, stems out, finishes. She wins!
Men’s Final 4
Weird moves from holds on a volume out to another huge volume with a little hold on the edge and another on the tip. Power move up left to the huge bonus blob. Rock up right to arete hold. Sit on bonus, move left to press finish.
Sachi – tried some interesting things to get out, didn’t sort it out.
Rei – wow! Another impressive effort from Rei.
Rei figured out the bottom and then hiked carefully to last move, where he hung out for a while trying to decide what to do.
He finally committed to the dynamic move, rocked left and used his right elbow to press into the wall to keep him from barn dooring out.
It worked, he stuck the finish!
Mayhaylo – went out backwards at the start but made it work!
Up to bonus, stood up on arete, foot up on bonus, couldn’t figure out last move, eventually fell. No send.
Rustam – fell from the start, then worked it out, stood up high at the top, crimped wall panel, left foot to final hold, leaned over, matched, done.
Dmitrii – fell from start repeatedly, after powering out first moves but getting stuck moving to bonus. Doesn’t finish, and it ends this comp but he’s still overall 1st place for the season.
Thomas – If he sends he wins. The crowd is chanting for him. Unfortunately he struggles on bottom, falls repeatedly, doesn’t get through it. Silver.
Women’s Final 1
This problem looked really balancy, and nearly everyone fell at least once, often many times. The top looked particularly challenging as it was necessary to press off a low foot and do some hand maneuvering, then get a high right foot and rock up onto it while pulling on the small holds and volume to the finish.
Dinara Fakhritdinova – bonus
Petra Klingler – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top
Melanie Sandoz – flash
Katha Saurwein – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top
Alex Puccio – flash to bonus, fell. didn’t finish
Shauna Coxsey – falling, bonus, not sure her highpoint
Anna Stöhr – falling, bonus…
After Anna fell off the bottom a few more times she got back up, instead of matching put right on gaston, left into the undercling she’s trying to match on in the pic above, right to volume, grabbed the top! Only the 2nd send of the boulder and it puts her in 2nd as Melanie flashed.
Men’s Final 1
Sachi Amma – 0
Rei Sugimoto – 0
Mykhaylo Shalagin – 0
Rustam Gelmanov – 0
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov – 0
Thomas Tauporn – 0
Women’s Final 2
The announcers said they thought you were supposed to go to the left side of the volume, but the girls jumped straight up one two left and then right to the high right dish. From there left hand flip to catch the swing (Dinara didn’t flip), then squeeze left on the volume/bonus, left again to undercling, high feet, stand up to finish.
Dinara – flash
Petra – falling, does sweet jump with left hand flip for the catch, finishes the problem with 2 knees and a heel hook.
Melanie – falls, bonus, falls, no send. Keeps falling trying to get left hand to upper left undercling for last move.
Katha – eventual send
Alex – flash
Shauna – flash
Anna – flash
Men’s Final 2
Blobs, arete, press into an volume, move around the volume to the finish.
Sachi – bonus
Rei – scroll down:
Mykhaylo – no top, bonus?
Rustam – looked good, got bonus, fell getting feet up. Falls again, calls to crowd for support, falls again, Heel blows, falls again.
Dmitrii – sends 2nd go and in 1st now.
Thomas – sends! Several goes. In 2nd now.
Rei is now in 3rd.
Semifinals Live Feed and Video
I didn’t watch semis but I’m watching the replay. You can too, here: IFSC Video Gallery. Men’s and Women’s finals are at the same time, so it’s one video for all. At the moment it’s the top video on the page. I’ll put a direct link in later.
As you can see from the photo of Leah above, Team Austria has published a nice photo album, which you can see here:
Men’s Semi 1 seemed to have a large reach move (or at least much much easier if you were tall) that divided up the men pretty handily. You had to hold left hand on the arete, right foot low on the lower face, and stab up to the small pocket inside the e-grips 2tex vortex. Some, like Dmitrii Sharafutdinov and Jernej Kruder, who both made finals, reached it easily. Others, like Sean McCall and Rustam Gelmanov, weren’t so lucky. After semis Sean ended up in the painful position of 7th, Gelmanov took 8th.
Women’s Semi 1 was a delicate balance problem that got the women quite stretched out. It was good for adding falls, though it did get finished. Unfortunately, some of the stronger climbers, including Mélissa Le Nevé, were unable to get to the final hold. Melissa is often a finalist, but this time she ended up in 8th overall. Shauna Coxsey stood for a long time with the two tiny chips (you can see how small they are from the photo of Leah at the top of this page) and eventually made her way to the final hold for the flash. She went on to take 1st overall in this round.
Men’s Semi 2 looked super fun and powerful. It involved several big volumes on an arete. After the start you grabbed a small hold under the big orange death star, then did a double jump to the death star (right) and the cone (left). The death star looked very slippery and many fell there, others got a heel in and were able to continue squeezing to the finish. Slovenian Jure Becan, younger brother of 1st place qualifier Klemen Becan, was one who finished it, and though his other results weren’t enough to get him into finals, he still turned in his best Boulder World Cup finish yet with 17th. His brother Klemen didn’t have as good of semifinals as he had qualifiers, and ended up in 10th overall.
Women’s Semi 2 started with a dynamic move to a right hand sloper (?) on the black triangle and a left hand catch hold, then turned into a twisty problem up a slightly overhanging wall to a committing but doable last move that lead to many exciting “will she stick it?!” moments. The answer for those who jumped seemed to be yes.
Katha barely squeaked her way into semifinals, but she showed that she deserved to be there with a strong round that took her into finals in 4th place.
Men’s Semi 3 looked like a short powerfest, jumpy like Semi 2 was. It dropped many climbers on the move to the orange sloper (where Klemen is below).
Women’s Semi 3 looked pretty awesome. It had not one but two of those big EP teardrop comp volumes on it and after working off an orange volume and through some gastons the women had to wrestle their way up the teardrops (and an undercling) on an overhanging section of the wall. Katha fell off the last move several times trying to go right hand, others, more successfully, went with the right or with a left-hand cross and finished the boulder.
Men’s Semi 4
Women’s Semi 4 was the black and green problem. From holds on a large black volume it was technical moves through green volumes, a bonus hold, then some balancey moves on large green slopers to the finish.
I will finish this after finals.
Women’s Problem 4
I didn’t catch the proposed grade.
Anna flashed? I thought 2nd go. Owned it though.
Katha sticks double dyno, falls moving off it. No bonus.
Jule gets up to bonus, falls on next move. Gets up again, falls again. No top.
Akiyo fell 1st go. 2nd go up to bonus, struggling with beta, bumps, tries to bump in, falls. Does it again, falls from next move. Done, no top.
If Shauna flashes she wins. She falls on the double dyno, not going to get gold, may get silver if she tops. If she tops 2nd go she’d tie Anna. Fell again. Now can only get silver max. Sticks the dyno 3rd go. Finishes the boulder. Top! Silver!
Puccio came out last, hiked the problem.
Here are the UNOFFICIAL (i.e. pre appeals period) results from Millau for women:
Men’s Problem 4
(but the announcer said more straightforward/easier than the last one)
Lucas came out and climbed up high, got bonus, but fell. Then he struggled.
Kilian came out strong, got bonus, fell moving up right to another volume. If he sends he wins. If not, and if someone else does, they could win. Very exciting. Kilian got back up, used a slightly better method, fell again.
Back again, does this double knee crouch thing, shifts right, grabs the top. Sends! Wins!
Guillaume got bonus first go. Fell above, as Kilian did, wrestling with the volumes. Didn’t finish.
Rustam came out next, looked good, did the problem 2nd go for his only send in Finals.
UNOFFICIAL (before appeals) Men’s Results
Women’s Problem 3
Anna is falling off. Mantling up a wall on volumes. Got the bonus (2nd or 3rd go?). Finished the boulder.
Katha starts to mantle but falls. Falls again. Starts to mantle, grabs the tiny handhold mid-wall to help the mantle, but can’t get her left foot up to stand. Jumped to the bonus but didn’t stick it. Done.
Jule flashed. Yeah!
Akiyo did another ridiculous stem/mantle. She may have the most flexible hips ever. The female announcer is trying to describe it and failing. Akiyo makes it to bonus, does a ridiculous stand up, jumps to the finish. Flashes!
Shauna came out next. She looked good on the mantle, didn’t quite hit the undercling out right exactly right, but it didn’t seem to matter. Sized up the last move, jumped big, got it (but it looked like barely!). Great!
Alex struggled to get up on the mantle and fell off at least twice. Third go looked better, she touched bonus before falling.
Men’s Problem 3
“the hardest” 7b+ (V8, like prob 2) but harder the head setter thinks
Lucas is falling off. First move a deadpoint to a gaston of a volume. Sticks it and messes around on volumes but can’t get anywhere. Sort of gets his right foot up, then falls. Done.
Kilian is in first as of now, with 2 tops. Falls from the start repeatedly. Can’t seem to get the first move, or even bonus. Done.
Guillaume had a similar experience. Eventually changed his shoes. Stuck the first move, got on the volumes, touched bonus, foot out right, fell. Fell more. Stuck first move again and fell more. Done.
Rustam Gelmanov didn’t do the first move.
Jorg eventually did do the first, but fell trying to control the bonus. Then he quit and walked off with 19 seconds left.
Dmitrii was last. He actually figured out the bottom of the problem, got bonus, got his foot out right, got his body over, and fell moving up to the last two holds. Unfortunately he’s scored the same as everyone else who got bonus, so still in 5th.
The stage, the crowd, and the walls all looked incredible at this event. Dmitrii is World Champion, Kilian won silver, and Rustam Bronze. The other three finalists were Canada’s Sean McColl, Germany’s Jan Hojer, and Japan’s Rei Sugimoto.
Here are some random shots and info from finals:
Everybody flashed but Dmitrii, who flashed to bonus, then fell 3 times before getting top on his 4th go. This put him in last going into problem 2.
Killian flashed, putting him in the lead. Sean got bonus and sent 2nd go, putting him in 2nd. If you get to the top without touching bonus you still get bonus points. Dmitrii got bonus and finished the problem 3rd go, giving him 1 send to match everyone else’s performance on men’s 1. Jan flashed to bonus but didn’t finish the problem. Rei and Rustam didn’t even get bonus.
Mantle to difficult movement out right to bonus. Dmitrii took a brave tactic and flashed. Rustam got bonus and sent 2nd go. Nobody else really got anywhere, all falling on the rightward move to the bonus hold.
This problem was on the far right wall and was supposed to be fairly easy compared to the previous two. It certainly seemed to be the case as everyone sent, Dmitrii, Kilian, Rustam, and Jan flashing, Sean getting bonsus and send 2nd go, and Rei flashing to bonus but then falling and also sending 2nd go.
All the competitors stood for the crowd. As they were going back behind the wall, Dmitrii’s girlfriend ran in and jumped on him. It was just like a sports movie. : )
Men’s paraclimbing, Blind 1 Division finals was up next and we watched 3 blind guys climb as far as they could up a 7B+ route with an assistant shouting (or using a headset and walkie talkie) to help them find their way. More on that in the next post.
Really the thing to do is to watch these live or watch the replays. Go here: IFSC World Climbing Championships 2012
The last bouldering World Cup for the season has just ended in Munich, Germany. An exciting finals came down to the last minute and last problem to decide the top places. Instead of taking a million screen shots I live-updated on Facebook for this comp. Not sure how successful it was as a method of recording and sharing, but some seemed to appreciate it as the live feed wasn’t working so well in many places. Luckily for me the live feed worked brilliantly this time around. If you want to read them click here – Munich Live Updates.
Mélanie gave a very great effort but came up just short of the finish holds on 3 and 4 and in the middle of 1 and 2, so she ended up in 6th.
Anna Gallaymova ended up climbing all the boulders, but this comp came down to attempts and she took far too many. Nevertheless, she gave a fantastic effort and even flashed final 3! 5th place.
With one fewer try than Anna G for her 4 tops, Melissa Le Neve ended up in 4th. She gave a fantastic effort as well. She easily hiked #1, then barely flashed #2, though it looked like she might fall on the last move. After missing the jump at the bottom of #3 for a while she stuck it and sent. On her flash go she fell near the top of #4, then struggled with the bottom for a while before making it back to the finish hold. 4th place.
Jule Wurm was the hometown favorite, and she climbed well though she had a sudden slip on #2 (commentator’s curse?) and at the bottom of #4 that pushed her back in the ranking. She flashed #1 and #3 for 3rd place.
Anna Stöhr was looking extremely dominant and powerful but an unexpected slip at the bottom of #4 on her first try was all it took for Akiyo to beat her. Akiyo did, flashing all 4 finals for a score of 4/4 to Anna’s 4/5.
For the men Briton Stewart Watson was looking quite good to podium until he slipped suddenly at the end of the last problem on his flash go. He didn’t end up sending and ended up in 6th.
Rei Sugimoto didn’t do the first problem but then recovered to do the second and flash the last. Unfortunately #3 also gave him quite the problem so he ended up in 5th. Even though Stewart has more bonuses, Rei has fewer tries to top so I guess that keeps him ahead.
Rustam didn’t look as good as usual, and after a few tries to send #1 he was shut down by the start of #2 when he kept trying a dyno and not sticking it. After many goes he did send the tricky sideways jump/slab of #3 and he flashed #4, but it wasn’t enough to put him on the podium.
Jakob is generally a beast though he looked to be suffering in this comp as well as he barely stuck the end of #1 on his 3rd try and barely got to the top of #2. #3 looked better for him once he figured out the start but he slipped suddenly on the last move and didn’t send. #4 looked like the easiest of the men’s finals and he flashed it powerfully.
Sean McColl came out in 1st position and he climbed quite well. He flashed #1 and did #2 after several tries at the start. He was the only competitor to flash #3, climbing it perfectly. #4 was also a flash, meaning that the number of tries it took him to get through the start of #2 made all the difference. Still, a great comp for Sean.
Finally Dmitrii Sharafutdinov flashed #1, nearly flashed #2 but fell after bonus and had to do it 2nd try. Took several tries for #3, flashed #4. So the falls between #2 and #3 separated Dmitrii and Sean, who were the only 2 to climb all the finals problems.
Season Final Results
With this competition the overall season titles are also confirmed and awarded. The men’s was actually decided on quali’s day, when multi-time champion (he’s been 1st or 2nd since 2006) Kilian Fischhuber didn’t make semis and therefore lost his first place to Rustam Gelmanov. If Jakob had won this comp he would have bumped Killian even further. The women were in similar straits, with Shauna and Akiyo in a battle for 2nd. Sadly, Shauna was unable to defend her position as #2 since she suffered a broken leg in Magic Wood earlier this summer and so could not compete in this final event.
Shauna was bumped down to 3rd overall by Akiyo Noguchi, who said she is very sorry to Shauna in her post-comp interview. Also interviewed was Udo Neumann:
If you want to learn about climbing and competition climbing, Udo’s videos are a wonderful resource. It is amazing to watch the subtle and not-so-subtle differences in technique displayed by the world’s best competition climbers.
Setting Blog World Cup Coverage 2012 Season
Here are links to the rest of the coverage we’ve done on the Bouldering World Cups this season.
Munich – Live Updates
#5 – Vail
Vail World Cup 2012 (lots of media all links from this page)
#4 – Innsbruck
# 3 – Vienna
Vienna World Cup Coverage Wrap-Up – UPDATED (many links from here)
#2 - Log-Dragomer
Log-Dragomer Slovenia Bouldering World Cup Finals Coverage Wrap-Up (many links from here)
#1 – China
See you next season!
As usual Austrian Team Manager Heiko Wilhelm has come out with some spectacular images of the event. Here are some of my favorites:
A couple from qualis
To see the rest check out the Austria Climbing Team on Facebook - Austria Climbing Team
Finals was very exciting in that it came down to the last problem for all categories. I will do more detailed rundowns in a few but for now here are podium shots.
Anna Stöhr won at home. Shauna Coxsey looked like she might win and I guess she didn’t do the 4th problem fast enough. Melissa came in just behind in 3rd with 3 sends in 4 tries, barely edging out Alex Puccio who made 3 sends in 6 tries. Katha was 4th with 3 sends in 11 tries, and Jain Kim was last with 2 sends in 10 tries.
Men’s also came down to the last minute, though after Rustam Gelmanov failed to send the fourth problem (which nobody sent) Kilian knew he’d won. He still gave a good effort on F4 but in the end nobody got past the bonus hold.
Problem breakdowns coming soon!