Women’s Final 4
Jump across to a jug undercling/swing catch. Big move (Petra figure 4′ed) to another volume, two volumes with jibs, high right foot on large green volume, press into corner with whole body to finish. The end especially seemed difficult and competitors tried some interesting things.
Dinara – fell, then caught dyno dramatically with one hand, got into volumes but fell.
Petra – did dyno, stylish figure 4, tried some real shenanagins on volumes, fell out of them. No finish.
Melanie – stuck dyno, had trouble moving up.
Katha – slipped off jump, did jump, got to high volumes, fell, back up, left hand on high volume, pressed into corner, sent!
Alex – fell off jump, then did it, fell from volumes b/c wrong hand up first, went again, went left first like Katha did, pressed pressed pressed. Sent! It looked very very close but it worked! Good job Alex!
Shauna – tried to static jump, fell a couple times, stuck it, hiked the top even though she went up right to the top volume and that hosed everyone else who tried it. Very strong effort from Shauna.
Anna – falls off jump. If she sends this climb she wins the comp. Gets back up. Goes right to top volume, seems stuck, eventually gets hands right, stems out, finishes. She wins!
Men’s Final 4
Weird moves from holds on a volume out to another huge volume with a little hold on the edge and another on the tip. Power move up left to the huge bonus blob. Rock up right to arete hold. Sit on bonus, move left to press finish.
Sachi – tried some interesting things to get out, didn’t sort it out.
Rei – wow! Another impressive effort from Rei.
Rei figured out the bottom and then hiked carefully to last move, where he hung out for a while trying to decide what to do.
He finally committed to the dynamic move, rocked left and used his right elbow to press into the wall to keep him from barn dooring out.
It worked, he stuck the finish!
Mayhaylo – went out backwards at the start but made it work!
Up to bonus, stood up on arete, foot up on bonus, couldn’t figure out last move, eventually fell. No send.
Rustam – fell from the start, then worked it out, stood up high at the top, crimped wall panel, left foot to final hold, leaned over, matched, done.
Dmitrii – fell from start repeatedly, after powering out first moves but getting stuck moving to bonus. Doesn’t finish, and it ends this comp but he’s still overall 1st place for the season.
Thomas – If he sends he wins. The crowd is chanting for him. Unfortunately he struggles on bottom, falls repeatedly, doesn’t get through it. Silver.
Women’s Final 1
This problem looked really balancy, and nearly everyone fell at least once, often many times. The top looked particularly challenging as it was necessary to press off a low foot and do some hand maneuvering, then get a high right foot and rock up onto it while pulling on the small holds and volume to the finish.
Dinara Fakhritdinova – bonus
Petra Klingler – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top
Melanie Sandoz – flash
Katha Saurwein – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top
Alex Puccio – flash to bonus, fell. didn’t finish
Shauna Coxsey – falling, bonus, not sure her highpoint
Anna Stöhr – falling, bonus…
After Anna fell off the bottom a few more times she got back up, instead of matching put right on gaston, left into the undercling she’s trying to match on in the pic above, right to volume, grabbed the top! Only the 2nd send of the boulder and it puts her in 2nd as Melanie flashed.
Men’s Final 1
Sachi Amma – 0
Rei Sugimoto – 0
Mykhaylo Shalagin – 0
Rustam Gelmanov – 0
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov – 0
Thomas Tauporn – 0
Women’s Final 2
The announcers said they thought you were supposed to go to the left side of the volume, but the girls jumped straight up one two left and then right to the high right dish. From there left hand flip to catch the swing (Dinara didn’t flip), then squeeze left on the volume/bonus, left again to undercling, high feet, stand up to finish.
Dinara – flash
Petra – falling, does sweet jump with left hand flip for the catch, finishes the problem with 2 knees and a heel hook.
Melanie – falls, bonus, falls, no send. Keeps falling trying to get left hand to upper left undercling for last move.
Katha – eventual send
Alex – flash
Shauna – flash
Anna – flash
Men’s Final 2
Blobs, arete, press into an volume, move around the volume to the finish.
Sachi – bonus
Rei – scroll down:
Mykhaylo – no top, bonus?
Rustam – looked good, got bonus, fell getting feet up. Falls again, calls to crowd for support, falls again, Heel blows, falls again.
Dmitrii – sends 2nd go and in 1st now.
Thomas – sends! Several goes. In 2nd now.
Rei is now in 3rd.
The highpoint on the men’s route was taken by Austrian Jakob Schubert, for his 6th lead world cup win in a row. You can see the holds in the picture above–Jakob fell off slapping at the first orange hold above the lip up on the left.
The 2nd place competitor, Sachi Amma of Japan (who was in the lead for the whole comp til this point) fell moving from the top green volume to the small orange pinch up and left of it.
3rd place finisher Romain Desgranges of France also fell here, but Sachi was ahead after semis and that broke the tie. Manuel Romain, also of France, came in next and fell from almost the same place but did not get credit for touching the pinch and therefore was scored at 33+ (positive movement off of hold 33) instead of 34- (touched usable surface on hold 34) like Romain and Sachi were.
5th place went to Jorg Verhoeven of the Netherlands. Jorg stuck the hold Matty jumped at, giving him 30 points and Matty 29+.
Finally, Sean McColl (CAN) and Ramón Julian Pugiblanque of Spain were tied for the whole comp and it was heartbreaking to see first Sean and then Ramón slip unexpectedly early in the route at a dyno to two fairly good holds. Sean fell from both holds, earning 18- and 7th place, and Ramón touched only one, earning 17- and 8th place.
Two Americans made finals! Sasha DiGiulian finished in 7th and Matty Hong finished in 8th! We are also very proud of Carlo, who stuck a few hard moves at the end of his try to the delight of the crowd. Finals are tonight at 7pm. Read on for more pictures, a semis rundown, and links to the full semis results.
1. Johanna Ernst (AUT)
1. Mina Markovic (SLO)
3. Momoka Oda (JPN)
4. Charlotte Durif (FRA)
4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)
6. Angela Eiter (AUT)
7. Sasha DiGiulian (USA) <———–!!!!!!
8. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
1. Sachi Amma (JPN)
2. Ramón Julian Pugiblanque (ESP)
2. Sean McColl (CAN)
4. Jakob Schubert (AUT)
5. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)
6. Romain Desgranges (FRA)
7. Manuel Romain (FRA)
8. Matty Hong (USA) <——————–!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!