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IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final 4

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Women’s Final 4

Dinara. Yes, it's blurry, but wow.

Dinara. Yes, it’s blurry, but wow.

Jump across to a jug undercling/swing catch. Big move (Petra figure 4′ed) to another volume, two volumes with jibs, high right foot on large green volume, press into corner with whole body to finish. The end especially seemed difficult and competitors tried some interesting things.

Dinara – fell, then caught dyno dramatically with one hand, got into volumes but fell.

Dinara going up to the volumes

Dinara going up to the volumes

Dinara trying to get her head in.

Dinara trying to get her head in.

Petra – did dyno, stylish figure 4, tried some real shenanagins on volumes, fell out of them. No finish.

Petra Klingler trying the arm bar

Petra Klingler trying the arm bar

Melanie – stuck dyno, had trouble moving up.

Katha – slipped off jump, did jump, got to high volumes, fell, back up, left hand on high volume, pressed into corner, sent!

Katha pressing into the corner at the top of final 4

Katha pressing into the corner at the top of final 4

Alex – fell off jump, then did it, fell from volumes b/c wrong hand up first, went again, went left first like Katha did, pressed pressed pressed. Sent! It looked very very close but it worked! Good job Alex!

Alex went right hand up but it worked out.

Alex went right hand up the first time. She looked strong but fell.

Alex using the correct method.

Alex using the correct method.

Alex mantling.

Alex mantling.

Backen-foot and lean across to the finish jib.

Backen-foot and lean across to the finish jib.

Shauna – tried to static jump, fell a couple times, stuck it, hiked the top even though she went up right to the top volume and that hosed everyone else who tried it. Very strong effort from Shauna.

Shauna made this look easy.

Shauna made this look easy.

Shauna pressing with style.

Shauna pressing with style.

Send!

Anna – falls off jump. If she sends this climb she wins the comp. Gets back up. Goes right to top volume, seems stuck, eventually gets hands right, stems out, finishes. She wins!

Anna finishing problem 4

Anna finishing problem 4

~

Men’s Final 4

Rustam going with the swing on Men's Final 4

Rustam going with the swing at the start on Men’s Final 4

Weird moves from holds on a volume out to another huge volume with a little hold on the edge and another on the tip. Power move up left to the huge bonus blob. Rock up right to arete hold. Sit on bonus, move left to press finish.

Sachi – tried some interesting things to get out, didn’t sort it out.

Sacha Amma trying Men's Final 4

Sacha Amma trying to go backwards on Men’s Final 4

Rei – wow! Another impressive effort from Rei.

Rei staring down the arete hold at the top of MF4

Rei staring down the arete hold at the mid top of MF4

Rei figured out the bottom and then hiked carefully to last move, where he hung out for a while trying to decide what to do.

Rei trying to commit to the last move.

Rei trying to commit to the last move.

He finally committed to the dynamic move, rocked left and used his right elbow to press into the wall to keep him from barn dooring out.

Rei using the elbow

Rei using the elbow

It worked, he stuck the finish!

Rei sending Men's Final 4

Rei just after sending Men’s Final 4

Mayhaylo – went out backwards at the start but made it work!

Mahaylo feet first.

Mahaylo feet first.

Mahaylo turning around.

Mahaylo turning around.

Mahaylo looking very strong.

Mahaylo looking very strong on the one arm.

Up to bonus, stood up on arete, foot up on bonus, couldn’t figure out last move, eventually fell. No send.

Rustam – fell from the start, then worked it out, stood up high at the top, crimped wall panel, left foot to final hold, leaned over, matched, done.

Rustam crimping gaston left hand on the wall panel in his chest, left foot first to the finish. He leaned over and matched it for the win.

Rustam crimping gaston left hand on the wall panel in his chest, left foot first to the finish. He leaned over and matched it for the win.

Dmitrii – fell from start repeatedly, after powering out first moves but getting stuck moving to bonus. Doesn’t finish, and it ends this comp but he’s still overall 1st place for the season.

Dmitrii struggling with the volume.

Dmitrii struggling with the volume. He basically jumped and held the swing to the little jib, and it seemed like he was just too pumped to power to the bonus so he was trying to get there via other means, but he wasn’t able to make it work.

Thomas – If he sends he wins. The crowd is chanting for him. Unfortunately he struggles on bottom, falls repeatedly, doesn’t get through it. Silver.

Rei wins!

IFSC Bouldering World Cup #8 – Munich – Finals Problems 1 & 2

August 25, 2013 1 comment
Petra Klinger of Switzerland not quite finishing WF1

Petra Klingler of Switzerland not quite finishing WF1

Women’s Final 1

This problem looked really balancy, and nearly everyone fell at least once, often many times. The top looked particularly challenging as it was necessary to press off a low foot and do some hand maneuvering, then get a high right foot and rock up onto it while pulling on the small holds and volume to the finish.

Dinara Fakhritdinova – bonus

Petra Klingler – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top

Melanie Sandoz – flash

Katha Saurwein – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top

Alex Puccio – flash to bonus, fell. didn’t finish

Shauna Coxsey – falling, bonus, not sure her highpoint

Anna Stöhr – falling, bonus…

Anna Stöhr trying to figure out the top of WF1.

Anna Stöhr trying to figure out the top of WF1. She slipped right after this.

After Anna fell off the bottom a few more times she got back up, instead of matching put right on gaston, left into the undercling she’s trying to match on in the pic above, right to volume, grabbed the top! Only the 2nd send of the boulder and it puts her in 2nd as Melanie flashed.

~

Men’s Final 1

Sachi Amma of Japan showing off the only 2 moves of MF1 that anyone did.

Sachi Amma of Japan showing off the only 2 moves of MF1 that anyone did. No one could stick the jump to the red eyebrow out right. Everything just looked too slippery.

Sachi Amma – 0

Rei Sugimoto – 0

Mykhaylo Shalagin – 0

Rustam Gelmanov – 0

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov – 0

Thomas Tauporn – 0

~

Women’s Final 2

Dinara flashing WF2

Dinara flashing WF2 with her own method.

The announcers said they thought you were supposed to go to the left side of the volume, but the girls jumped straight up one two left and then right to the high right dish. From there left hand flip to catch the swing (Dinara didn’t flip), then squeeze left on the volume/bonus, left again to undercling, high feet, stand up to finish.

Dinara – flash

Petra – falling, does sweet jump with left hand flip for the catch, finishes the problem with 2 knees and a heel hook.

Petra heel hooking to the top.

Petra heel hooking to the top.

Melanie – falls, bonus, falls, no send. Keeps falling trying to get left hand to upper left undercling for last move.

Katha – eventual send

Alex – flash

Shauna – flash

Anna – flash

~

Men’s Final 2

Blobs, arete, press into an volume, move around the volume to the finish.

Sachi – bonus

Rei – scroll down:

Rei at the start of MF2

Rei at the start of MF2

Rei Sugimoto working into the top volume.

Rei Sugimoto working into the top volume.

Rei pressing into the volume. He moved slowly and precisely so he wouldn't fall.

Rei pressing into the volume. He moved slowly and precisely so he wouldn’t fall.

Rei clinging to the volume as he reaches left for the final hold.

Rei clinging to the volume as he reaches left for the final hold.

Rei makes the first top in the men's round.

Rei makes the first top in the men’s round.

Mykhaylo – no top, bonus?

Rustam – looked good, got bonus, fell getting feet up. Falls again, calls to crowd for support, falls again, Heel blows, falls again.

Dmitrii – sends 2nd go and in 1st now.

Thomas – sends! Several goes. In 2nd now.

Rei is now in 3rd.

~

 

 

IFSC Lead World Cup Finals! – MEN’S Results

October 9, 2011 Leave a comment

The sole American man in finals and the first guy to climb, Matty Hong of Boulder put on a great showing in his first lead world cup final. The crowd screamed non-stop for him as he worked his way though through some creative sequencing to an almost Rifle-esque kneebar rest on a good tufa with insecure feet. He fell off a couple of holds later (grabbing at the orange hold on the next green volume above him) and finished in 6th!

The highpoint on the men’s route was taken by Austrian Jakob Schubert, for his 6th lead world cup win in a row. You can see the holds in the picture above–Jakob fell off slapping at the first orange hold above the lip up on the left.

The 2nd place competitor, Sachi Amma of Japan (who was in the lead for the whole comp til this point) fell moving from the top green volume to the small orange pinch up and left of it.

3rd place finisher Romain Desgranges of France also fell here, but Sachi was ahead after semis and that broke the tie. Manuel Romain, also of France, came in next and fell from almost the same place but did not get credit for touching the pinch and therefore was scored at 33+ (positive movement off of hold 33) instead of 34- (touched usable surface on hold 34) like Romain and Sachi were.

5th place went to Jorg Verhoeven of the Netherlands. Jorg stuck the hold Matty jumped at, giving him 30 points and Matty 29+.

Finally, Sean McColl (CAN) and Ramón Julian Pugiblanque of Spain were tied for the whole comp and it was heartbreaking to see first Sean and then Ramón slip unexpectedly early in the route at a dyno to two fairly good holds.  Sean fell from both holds, earning 18- and 7th place, and Ramón touched only one, earning 17- and 8th place.

Romain Desgranges in 3rd, Sachi Amma in 2nd, Jakob Schubert taking top honors.

Full Men’s Results

IFSC Lead World Cup – Semis Results + pictures. FINALS TONIGHT!

October 9, 2011 1 comment

Canadian Mike Doyle leading off the semifinals round. The beginning of the route was powerful with long moves that some of the shorter competitors seemed to struggle on.

Two Americans made finals!  Sasha DiGiulian finished in 7th and Matty Hong finished in 8th!  We are also very proud of Carlo, who stuck a few hard moves at the end of his try to the delight of the crowd. Finals are tonight at 7pm. Read on for more pictures, a semis rundown, and links to the full semis results.

Scott Mechler interviews celebrity belay team Lynn Hill and Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou before the start of the semifinal round.

Carlo Traversi. He stuck the next hold and fell on the cross to the 1st blue hold above the volumes. At the time it was the best performance and was met with huge cheers from the audience. Carlo took 11th.

American Chelsea Rude stayed strong through this cruxy section and fell off near the next clip. Her performance was 2nd best for American women and earned her 11th place.

Paige Claassen ties the rope so fast her hands are a blurr! She and Katharina Saurwein of Austria await their turns on the semfinal route. Paige did well but fell on a difficult move to a pinch on the top of the volume-man and ended up in 13th overall. Katharina took 17th.

Matty Hong powering his way into finals in 8th place. He was the first competitor to stick the big black pinch a few moves higher, and that stick was enough to get him into finals. Nice job Matty!!!

Austrian Johanna Ernst literally hiked the route, climbing casually all the way to the anchor for the first (and one of only 2) sends. Johanna was one of 11 girls tied for 1st place after qualifiers. The routesetters had quite a task in separating these 11 girls into 8 un-tied girls with this single semifinal route, but they mostly succeeded.

Canadian Sean McColl came out and raced his way up the route, blowing past previous highpoints and establishing a new one near the top of the headwall. In this picture Sean is doing a stylish clip with a right hand undercling and both his feet bicycling a pinch out left. Photographer Caroline Treadway out right is taking his picture.

Spanish superstar Ramón Julian Pugiblanque nearing the top of the wall. He was only the second competitor to get this high after Canadian Sean McColl. He and Sean fell at the same place and ended semis tied for 2nd after semis.

Caroline Treadway spent most of the comp high on the sidewall taking pictures of the competitors. Here she shoots Austrian Jakob Schubert as he muscles toward the headwall. Schubert made it up to the three giant myorcean tufas above and fell matching in--one move before Ramón Julian Pugiblanque and Sean McColl fell.

Slovenian Maja Vidmar dropkneeing her way through the top of the semifinal. She looked strong on on the road to sending before both feet slipped off a bit higher and sent her off. She still ended up in 4th and will climb in finals tonight.

Top-ranked qualifier Sachi Amma of Japan, the only man to flash both his qualifiers yesterday, matched this highpoint in semis with Canadian Sean McColl and Spanish Ramón Julian Pugiblanque. All 3 fell off jumping for the next small e-grips pinch that was the last hold before the finish.

Slovenian Mina Markovich styling a dropknee near the top of the women's semifinal. Mina was the last to climb and previously only Austrian Johanna Ernst, who flashed the route, got as high as Mina is here.

Mina Markovic flashed the semifinal to maintain her place in a 1st place tie with Johanna Ernst. Here she is clipping the anchor clip--a move which seemed to be the last crux of the route as both competitors to get here hesitated before clipping. The rest of the 11 girls who were tied for first after qualifiers spread out into a 4th place tie and 4 other separated competitors.

Woman Finalists

1. Johanna Ernst (AUT)

1. Mina Markovic (SLO)

3. Momoka Oda (JPN)

4. Charlotte Durif (FRA)

4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)

6. Angela Eiter (AUT)

7. Sasha DiGiulian (USA) <———–!!!!!!

8. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Semis result W O M E N lead

 

Male Finalists

1. Sachi Amma (JPN)

2. Ramón Julian Pugiblanque (ESP)

2. Sean McColl (CAN)

4. Jakob Schubert (AUT)

5. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

6. Romain Desgranges (FRA)

7. Manuel Romain (FRA)

8. Matty Hong (USA) <——————–!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Semis result M E N lead

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