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IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final Results + Overall Season Results

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Finals Replay

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Munich Final Results

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women's Podium in Munich.

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women’s Podium in Munich.

Munich Women's Final Scores

Munich Women’s Final Scores

Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!

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Munich Men’s Final Results

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.

Rei Sugimoto

Winner Rei Sugimoto

Men's Final Scores

Men’s Final Scores

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Season Overall Podiums

Women's Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Women’s Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Men's Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

Men’s Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Men’s Finals UPDATED

May 18, 2013 3 comments

Men’s 1

Dyno 1 arm is the show move. Stand up on start holds, jump left, basically campus to top. Everyone did it easily.

Kilian styling the dyno

Kilian styling the dyno

Dima on the bottom of 1

Dima on the bottom of 1

Jan at the top of Men's 1

Jan at the top of 1

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Men’s 2

Lots of volumes up an overhanging wall. Start with right pinch and left on arete. Move through volumes, stand up to an undercling triangle volume, grab another triangle volume, match, done.

GG on the bottom of 2

GG on the bottom of 2

Dmitrii

Dmitrii low middle on 2

Jan pushing up into the volume.

Jan pushing up into the undercling volume.

Kili using alternative beta to get up on the undercling

Kili using alternative beta to get up on the undercling

Jorg at the top of 2

Jorg at the top of 2

Sean matching the finish.

Sean matching the finish.

Jan Hojer beasted it right off (apparently actually 2nd go, he slipped 1st go). Dimitrii flashed. GG flashed. Kilian flashed. Jorg flashed too. Sean flashed.

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Men’s 3

Mantle, volumes, undercling left, drive by right hand to red triangle out left. Match onto bonus hold jib, move to jib on upper triangle, lean over to last hold.

Dmitrii on the bottom of 3

Dmitrii on the bottom of 3

Kilian getting set up for the drive by

Kilian getting set up for the drive by

GG doing the drive-by on the middle of 3

GG doing the drive-by on the middle of 3

Kilian about to fall off trying to stick the upper part of the volume.

Kilian about to fall off trying to stick the bonus hold jib on the upper part of the volume.

Sean having the same problem

Sean having the same problem. He looks good, but he doesn’t stay on.

Dmitrii matching the jib to move to the last hold.

Dmitrii did. Here he is matching the jib to move to the last hold.

Dmitrii at the top of 3

Dmitrii sticking the top of 3

Jan Hojer came out and flashed easily. Commentators are speculating the problems are too easy.

Dima started strong, climbed most of the way up, fell, fell again. Sent.

GG came out, fell on drive by. Again. Again.

Kili fell off. Again. Apparently you fall doing the move after the drive by if you don’t keep your right foot on the large yellow orb. He does the drive-by, bumps right hand off, jumps and left hand hamhock, slides off trying to stick it. Last go, same thing. Bummer.

Jorg had much the same experience as Kilian. Stuck the cross. Couldn’t stick the match.

Sean came out last. Looked strong on bottom and drive-by, fell like Jorg and Kili trying to stick the match on the volume. They do a nice jump to the bonus hold/jib on the volume, but all seemed to slip off pulling up to stick it. Sean didn’t send either, and so now the field has flipped.

Results after Men’s 3

The people who are tied below are broken up by countbacks to semis.

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 1.14.09 PM (2)

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Men’s Final 4

This problem looked pretty straightforward. Thugging on volumes up a steep wall.

Jan Hojer came out first and if he flashed he’d win. He flashed. climbed it quickly, he’d win. Apparently he fell from the start once before sending, but it didn’t show on the live feed. When he got to the top he knew he’d won, and he looked ecstatic. He wins! First gold in a Bouldering World Cup for Jan.

Jan the Champion

Jan the Champion

Dmitrii sent it 2nd go. This should keep him in silver.

Dima sending Men's 4

Dima sending Men’s 4

GG sent as well but not fast enough. He knows it, and he’s pretty disappointed as he waves to the crowd and walks off. Jorg sent, not sure how quickly. Sean sent as well but not fast enough. Kili flashed and he gets bronze.

Guillaume at the end of 4.

Guillaume at the end of 4.

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Men’s Final Results

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 2.10.18 PM

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 1.44.29 PM (2)

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (2) Jan Hojer (1) and Kilian Fischhuber (3)

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (2) Jan Hojer (1) and Kilian Fischhuber (3)

Quick Setting Update + New Volumes + Summer Jam + World Cups and Sean McColl’s First Bouldering World Cup Win!

May 14, 2013 Leave a comment

Quick Setting Update + New Volumes!

We stripped the Beach today, first strip over the new floor and so far so good. Danny, Ian, Jonny, Connor, Lily, and I set some of the problems with the upcoming North American World Cups in mind–we want to help train Team USA climbers who live here so they’ll be in shape for Canada and Vail, and we also want to give visiting International World Cup circuit climbers some great problems to climb on when they come visit us in the week leading up to Vail.

Team Austria at The Spot

Team Austria preparing for Vail at The Spot a couple of years ago

We always enjoy having the WC competitors acclimating at The Spot, and we’re excited to see everyone again this year.

In other exciting news (and to help with comp style setting) we just got a shipment of Motivation Volumes in, some with the new World Cup texture. You’ll notice the stickier purple volumes–those are the World Cup texture. The lighter pink volumes have another Motivation texture on them.

Check out the new volumes and the new problems on The Beach today (more coming tomorrow) and get a feel for some of the types of holds you’ll see on the wall at the Vail World Cup!

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Summer Jam

The Spot Gym Summer Jam

The Spot’s annual Welcome to Summer Member Appreciation event–Summer Jam–is happening tomorrow!

Members get in free ($10 or a climbing daypass for all others) and we’ll be serving up BBQ and Avery beer and giving away a bunch of stuff in a sweet raffle, including a Black Diamond crashpad donated by our friends at MooseJaw.

We’re also going to be selling our $150/3 months paid in full Summer Membership. The Summer Membership is a limited time offer, so don’t miss it! It’s a great deal and a good back-up plan for warming up before going to your projects outside, climbing while holding down a “real job”, or keeping in shape over summer with Colorado’s increasingly unpredictable weather patterns. We’ve got a roof to keep out sun and rain, and we’ve got AC and we’re not afraid to use it. So come on down, bring your family, friends, and roommates to Summer Jam!

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Sean’s Big Win

With the exception of the Vail event there are usually only a couple of competitors in the World Cups from North America. One of the regulars is Canadian Sean McColl. If you’ve watched any IFSC Lead or Bouldering events in the past few years you’ve probably seen Sean compete. He is a regular on the world podium and runs a well written blog with updates on training and competing. Anyways, Sean is one of the few holding it down from this half of the world, and we are super psyched for him on his first Bouldering World Cup win last weekend in Slovenia.

Sean after flashing the last boulder. When he flashed it he knew he'd won.

Sean after flashing the last boulder. When he flashed it he knew he’d won.

He climbed extremely well in finals. Amazing job Sean!

Read his impressions of the event here: My First Bouldering World Cup Victory | Sean McColl

Spot Blog coverage here: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #4 – Log Dragomer – Finals

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More updates and fresh problems tomorrow. Don’t miss Summer Jam!

2012 IFSC World Championships – Men’s Bouldering

September 15, 2012 Leave a comment

Kilian (2nd), Dmitrii (1st), Rustam (3rd)

The stage, the crowd, and the walls all looked incredible at this event.  Dmitrii is World Champion, Kilian won silver, and Rustam Bronze. The other three finalists were Canada’s Sean McColl, Germany’s Jan Hojer, and Japan’s Rei Sugimoto.

Here are some random shots and info from finals:

Men’s 1

Everybody flashed but Dmitrii, who flashed to bonus, then fell 3 times before getting top on his 4th go. This put him in last going into problem 2.

Men’s 2

Killian flashed, putting him in the lead. Sean got bonus and sent 2nd go, putting him in 2nd. If you get to the top without touching bonus you still get bonus points. Dmitrii got bonus and finished the problem 3rd go, giving him 1 send to match everyone else’s performance on men’s 1. Jan flashed to bonus but didn’t finish the problem. Rei and Rustam didn’t even get bonus.

Kilian flashing Men’s 2

Jan Hojer on Men’s 2. Looked good, then fell apart a second later.

Men’s 3

Mantle to difficult movement out right to bonus. Dmitrii took a brave tactic and flashed. Rustam got bonus and sent 2nd go. Nobody else really got anywhere, all falling on the rightward move to the bonus hold.

Rei Sugimoto struggling with the transition on Men’s 3

Rustam on the start mantle of Men’s 3

Rustam working his way around this cruxy corner on Men’s 3. These moves really shut the climbers down.

Rustam on Men’s 3. Not a great shot but LOOK AT HIS LEFT ARM!

Dmitrii leaning right…

Dmitrii leaned, leaned, and then sort of deadpointed right hand to the bonus hold while flipping left. He caught himself and sent for the flash.

Sean suffered here and didn’t make it to bonus.

Killian took a different tactic, but it still didn’t work.

Jan Hojer also suffered on this one.

Men’s 4

This problem was on the far right wall and was supposed to be fairly easy compared to the previous two. It certainly seemed to be the case as everyone sent, Dmitrii, Kilian, Rustam, and Jan flashing, Sean getting bonsus and send 2nd go, and Rei flashing to bonus but then falling and also sending 2nd go.

Rei flashed to bonus, then fell, then got back on and sent.

Rustam manhandling the volume.

Dmitrii sticking the move out left the same way Rustam did. This seemed to be the hardest move on the problem.

Sean McColl and wow look at the walls!

Sean after sending. He knew he didn’t win but he stayed a good sport for the crowd. Which is huge. Look at that crowd!

Kilian

Kilian finishing.

Jan Hojer and…crowd!

Jan

The End

All the competitors stood for the crowd. As they were going back behind the wall, Dmitrii’s girlfriend ran in and jumped on him. It was just like a sports movie. : )

Men’s Bouldering Finalists

Wow.

Dmitrii and his girlfriend

The Walls

Final Results

Next Up

Men’s paraclimbing, Blind 1 Division finals was up next and we watched 3 blind guys climb as far as they could up a 7B+ route with an assistant shouting (or using a headset and walkie talkie) to help them find their way. More on that in the next post.

Really the thing to do is to watch these live or watch the replays.  Go here: IFSC World Climbing Championships 2012

The Spot on Sean McColl’s blog

June 26, 2012 Leave a comment

This post is a bit late, but Sean McColl visited the Spot for some training before the Vail World Cup and he linked to us on his blog. Thanks Sean!

Click the screen shot above to read Sean’s excellent blog about the Vail World Cup and all the other events so far this year.

Vail World Cup 2012 – Media Wrap Up

June 6, 2012 1 comment

Sean McColl and Anna Stohr on Final 4

The 2012 IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado, was a great success. Eighty-nine competitors from France, Mexico, The Netherlands, Korea, Japan, Austria, Hungary, Slovenia, Great Britain, Germany, Australia, Finland, China, Canada, and the USA did their best as the field was whittled to 40 semifinalists, then 12 finalists, then finally to the two who stood atop the podiums as champions.
As the home country, America was allowed to fill extra spaces in the competition with home team climbers. Former Vail World Cup champions Alex Puccio, Alex Johnson, and Daniel Woods were joined by a large American team including many names you will recognize from Spot Series Comps–Angie Payne, Tiffany Hensley (a Spot coach!), Nina Williams, Tyler and Jesse Youngwerth, Chauncenia Cox, Lizzy Asher, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Carlo Traversi, Matty Hong, Michael O’Rourke, Alex David Johnson, Matt Wilder, Garrett Gregor, and Austin Geiman. Rounding out the team were Cicada Jenerik, Delaney Miller, Josh Levin, Alex Fritz, Josh Larson, Zach Lerner, Michael Bautista, and Ethan Pringle.
The problems were exciting to watch and seemed to truly divide competitors as they were challenged on many different styles of climbing. The slabs were inventive and challenging, the dynos were large, and more than one competitor looked hopeless, only to pull off a send at the last second to the screams of the crowd.
When the dust settled it was Austrian champions Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber atop the podiums, with Canadian Sean McColl and German Jan Hojer rounding out the Men’s podium and Briton Shauna Coxsey and German Jule Wurm in 2nd and 3rd for the women.  The only two Americans in finals were Alex Johnson, who took 4th and Alex Puccio, who took 5th.

 

Here is all the media we have posted on this event. We will update this page as we add more media.

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A Couple of Photos mid-event

Intro + Men’s Qualifiers UPDATED

Women’s Qualifiers

Men’s & Women’s Semifinals

Women’s Finals 3 & 4

Final Results and Podium Shots

Finals Live Feed Video

Article from Sean McColl

Other Media

Vail World Cup 2012 – Men’s & Women’s Semifinals

June 6, 2012 1 comment

I missed most of this round as well.  We camped and got up way too late.  Oops.  So I don’t have any photos of 1 or 2 for men or women. Here are 3, 4, and 5.

Alex Johnson flashing Women’s Semi 3 in good style.

Jakob Schubert on Men’s 4, Alex Johnson finishing Women’s 3

Alex Puccio midway up her flash of Women’s semi 3, Kilian Fischhuber midway up the powerful men’s semi 2.

Kilian Fischhuber atop Men’s Semi 2

Angie on Women’s 4, Ty on Men’s 3, Jakob on Men’s 2. To the far right, Alex Johnson is about to hurt her finger by bumping right hand to the right pocket on Women’s Semi 2.

Alex Puccio wrestling through the bottom of Women’s semi 4

Alex Johnson near the top of Semi 4. This move gave some girls major trouble, while others seemed to easily move through it.

Alex Johnson at the top of Women’s semi 4. To the right you can see men’s semi 3, women’s semi 2 on the left side of the big bulge, men’s semi 2 to the right of that, and then women’s semi 1 and men’s semi 1 way to the right.

Matty Hong at the start of Men’s Q 4. Several climbers had trouble figuring this one out, standing too high on the arete and trying to step across. The way was to sag low and move around the volume, then rock up on the right foot to the bonus hold, do a slippery left foot smear on the volume to grab the white jib, go again to the green crimp above the volume or go right to it, left to the next green hold, and…

Tyler Landman about to levitate. On this try he didn’t go quite hard enough, but on his last go he literally raced against the clock, starting with 18 seconds left and running through the bottom of the problem which had previously given him trouble to make this move to the last hold as the time ran out. It was extremely exciting and the crowd went nuts.

Sean levitating his way to the finish. It seemed like there was no good way to do this move besides jumping, so that’s what most competitors did.

Sean McColl atop his last semi on his flash. He flashed 3 of the 4 semis after falling 3 times on the first one.

Guillaume Glairon-Mondet atop Men’s Semi 4, Angie Payne cruxing out on the last move of Women’s Semi 4 (she didn’t get it) and Ty Landman easily doing the double dyno of Men’s Semi 3 (he fell from the last move on the flash and didn’t end up finishing the problem).

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After semis, only 2 Americans were still in it. Alex Johnson went into finals in 4th, and Alex Puccio went in in 6th. Our highest ranking boy was Daniel Woods in 10th place.

Finalists (top 6 semifinalists)

Women

1. Jule Wurm GER

2. Shauna Coxsey GBR

3. Mélanie Sandoz  FRA

4. Alex Johnson USA

5. Anna Stöhr  AUT

6. Alex Puccio  USA

Men

1. Jakob Schubert  AUT

2. Rei Sugimoto  JPN

3. Jan Hojer  GER

4. Guillaume Glairon Mondet  FRA

5. Sean McColl  CAN

6. Kilian Fischhuber  AUT

 

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Full Semis Results:

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist 1/2 Final W O M E N bouldering

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist 1/2 Final M E N bouldering

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More:

Vail World Cup 2012 – Women’s Qualifiers « The Spot Route Setting Blog

Vail World Cup 2012 – Intro + Men’s Qualifiers UPDATED « The Spot Route Setting Blog

Vail World Cup 2012

June 4, 2012 2 comments

Sean McColl on Men’s Final 4 in Vail | Heiko WIlhelm

Finally have some Internet so I’ll update today and tomorrow with World Cup info and photos. First, here’s an excellent post from Canadian Champion Sean McColl - Vail World Cup 2012 | Sean McColl

 

World Cup Bouldering 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Heiko Wilhelm Photos

May 20, 2012 2 comments

As usual Austrian Team Manager Heiko Wilhelm has come out with some spectacular images of the event. Here are some of my favorites:

A couple from qualis

Jain Kim with her left hand on the left start hold of Women’s Quali 3? Notice the blockers around it to prevent the heel hook | Heiko Wilhelm

Mina Markovic on Women’s Quali 2 | Heiko Wilhelm

Finals

Sean McColl Men’s Final 3 | Heiko Wilhelm

Jain Kim sticking the long move to the bonus on Women’s Final 3 | Heiko Wilhelm

Jakob Schubert nearly sending Final 2 | Heiko Wilhelm

Kilian sending the problem that would win him the comp | Heiko Wilhelm

Melissa Le Neve on Final 4 | Heiko Wilhelm

Anna for the win! | Heiko Wilhelm

Rustam, Kilian, Sean on the Men’s Podium | Heiko Wilhelm

Shauna, Anna and Melissa  |  Heiko Wilhelm

To see the rest check out the Austria Climbing Team on Facebook - Austria Climbing Team

Bouldering World Cup 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Final Results!

May 19, 2012 1 comment

Finals!

Finals was very exciting in that it came down to the last problem for all categories. I will do more detailed rundowns in a few but for now here are podium shots.

Women

Anna Stöhr won at home. Shauna Coxsey looked like she might win and I guess she didn’t do the 4th problem fast enough. Melissa came in just behind in 3rd with 3 sends in 4 tries, barely edging out Alex Puccio who made 3 sends in 6 tries. Katha was 4th with 3 sends in 11 tries, and Jain Kim was last with 2 sends in 10 tries.

The podium:

Shauna Coxsey (silver) Anna Stöhr (gold) Melissa Le Neve (bronze)

Then the girls sprayed champagne everywhere.

Champagne fight

Victory!

Final results

Full finals problems result – IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist Final W O M E N bouldering

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Men

Men’s also came down to the last minute, though after Rustam Gelmanov failed to send the fourth problem (which nobody sent) Kilian knew he’d won. He still gave a good effort on F4 but in the end nobody got past the bonus hold.

Canadian Sean McColl proud to be on the podium in 3rd place in his first finals of the season.

Rustam Gelmanov (silver) Kilian Fischhuber (gold) and Sean McColl (bronze)

The champagne spray

Men’s final result

Full finals result – IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist Final M E N bouldering

Problem breakdowns coming soon!

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