Munich Final Results
Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!
Munich Men’s Final Results
This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.
Season Overall Podiums
Dyno 1 arm is the show move. Stand up on start holds, jump left, basically campus to top. Everyone did it easily.
Lots of volumes up an overhanging wall. Start with right pinch and left on arete. Move through volumes, stand up to an undercling triangle volume, grab another triangle volume, match, done.
Jan Hojer beasted it right off (apparently actually 2nd go, he slipped 1st go). Dimitrii flashed. GG flashed. Kilian flashed. Jorg flashed too. Sean flashed.
Mantle, volumes, undercling left, drive by right hand to red triangle out left. Match onto bonus hold jib, move to jib on upper triangle, lean over to last hold.
Jan Hojer came out and flashed easily. Commentators are speculating the problems are too easy.
Dima started strong, climbed most of the way up, fell, fell again. Sent.
GG came out, fell on drive by. Again. Again.
Kili fell off. Again. Apparently you fall doing the move after the drive by if you don’t keep your right foot on the large yellow orb. He does the drive-by, bumps right hand off, jumps and left hand hamhock, slides off trying to stick it. Last go, same thing. Bummer.
Jorg had much the same experience as Kilian. Stuck the cross. Couldn’t stick the match.
Sean came out last. Looked strong on bottom and drive-by, fell like Jorg and Kili trying to stick the match on the volume. They do a nice jump to the bonus hold/jib on the volume, but all seemed to slip off pulling up to stick it. Sean didn’t send either, and so now the field has flipped.
Results after Men’s 3
The people who are tied below are broken up by countbacks to semis.
Men’s Final 4
This problem looked pretty straightforward. Thugging on volumes up a steep wall.
Jan Hojer came out first and if he
flashed he’d win. He flashed. climbed it quickly, he’d win. Apparently he fell from the start once before sending, but it didn’t show on the live feed. When he got to the top he knew he’d won, and he looked ecstatic. He wins! First gold in a Bouldering World Cup for Jan.
Dmitrii sent it 2nd go. This should keep him in silver.
GG sent as well but not fast enough. He knows it, and he’s pretty disappointed as he waves to the crowd and walks off. Jorg sent, not sure how quickly. Sean sent as well but not fast enough. Kili flashed and he gets bronze.
Men’s Final Results
Quick Setting Update + New Volumes + Summer Jam + World Cups and Sean McColl’s First Bouldering World Cup Win!
Quick Setting Update + New Volumes!
We stripped the Beach today, first strip over the new floor and so far so good. Danny, Ian, Jonny, Connor, Lily, and I set some of the problems with the upcoming North American World Cups in mind–we want to help train Team USA climbers who live here so they’ll be in shape for Canada and Vail, and we also want to give visiting International World Cup circuit climbers some great problems to climb on when they come visit us in the week leading up to Vail.
We always enjoy having the WC competitors acclimating at The Spot, and we’re excited to see everyone again this year.
In other exciting news (and to help with comp style setting) we just got a shipment of Motivation Volumes in, some with the new World Cup texture. You’ll notice the stickier purple volumes–those are the World Cup texture. The lighter pink volumes have another Motivation texture on them.
Check out the new volumes and the new problems on The Beach today (more coming tomorrow) and get a feel for some of the types of holds you’ll see on the wall at the Vail World Cup!
The Spot’s annual Welcome to Summer Member Appreciation event–Summer Jam–is happening tomorrow!
Members get in free ($10 or a climbing daypass for all others) and we’ll be serving up BBQ and Avery beer and giving away a bunch of stuff in a sweet raffle, including a Black Diamond crashpad donated by our friends at MooseJaw.
We’re also going to be selling our $150/3 months paid in full Summer Membership. The Summer Membership is a limited time offer, so don’t miss it! It’s a great deal and a good back-up plan for warming up before going to your projects outside, climbing while holding down a “real job”, or keeping in shape over summer with Colorado’s increasingly unpredictable weather patterns. We’ve got a roof to keep out sun and rain, and we’ve got AC and we’re not afraid to use it. So come on down, bring your family, friends, and roommates to Summer Jam!
Sean’s Big Win
With the exception of the Vail event there are usually only a couple of competitors in the World Cups from North America. One of the regulars is Canadian Sean McColl. If you’ve watched any IFSC Lead or Bouldering events in the past few years you’ve probably seen Sean compete. He is a regular on the world podium and runs a well written blog with updates on training and competing. Anyways, Sean is one of the few holding it down from this half of the world, and we are super psyched for him on his first Bouldering World Cup win last weekend in Slovenia.
He climbed extremely well in finals. Amazing job Sean!
Read his impressions of the event here: My First Bouldering World Cup Victory | Sean McColl
Spot Blog coverage here: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #4 – Log Dragomer – Finals
More updates and fresh problems tomorrow. Don’t miss Summer Jam!
The stage, the crowd, and the walls all looked incredible at this event. Dmitrii is World Champion, Kilian won silver, and Rustam Bronze. The other three finalists were Canada’s Sean McColl, Germany’s Jan Hojer, and Japan’s Rei Sugimoto.
Here are some random shots and info from finals:
Everybody flashed but Dmitrii, who flashed to bonus, then fell 3 times before getting top on his 4th go. This put him in last going into problem 2.
Killian flashed, putting him in the lead. Sean got bonus and sent 2nd go, putting him in 2nd. If you get to the top without touching bonus you still get bonus points. Dmitrii got bonus and finished the problem 3rd go, giving him 1 send to match everyone else’s performance on men’s 1. Jan flashed to bonus but didn’t finish the problem. Rei and Rustam didn’t even get bonus.
Mantle to difficult movement out right to bonus. Dmitrii took a brave tactic and flashed. Rustam got bonus and sent 2nd go. Nobody else really got anywhere, all falling on the rightward move to the bonus hold.
This problem was on the far right wall and was supposed to be fairly easy compared to the previous two. It certainly seemed to be the case as everyone sent, Dmitrii, Kilian, Rustam, and Jan flashing, Sean getting bonsus and send 2nd go, and Rei flashing to bonus but then falling and also sending 2nd go.
All the competitors stood for the crowd. As they were going back behind the wall, Dmitrii’s girlfriend ran in and jumped on him. It was just like a sports movie. : )
Men’s paraclimbing, Blind 1 Division finals was up next and we watched 3 blind guys climb as far as they could up a 7B+ route with an assistant shouting (or using a headset and walkie talkie) to help them find their way. More on that in the next post.
Really the thing to do is to watch these live or watch the replays. Go here: IFSC World Climbing Championships 2012
This post is a bit late, but Sean McColl visited the Spot for some training before the Vail World Cup and he linked to us on his blog. Thanks Sean!
Click the screen shot above to read Sean’s excellent blog about the Vail World Cup and all the other events so far this year.
Here is all the media we have posted on this event. We will update this page as we add more media.
I missed most of this round as well. We camped and got up way too late. Oops. So I don’t have any photos of 1 or 2 for men or women. Here are 3, 4, and 5.
After semis, only 2 Americans were still in it. Alex Johnson went into finals in 4th, and Alex Puccio went in in 6th. Our highest ranking boy was Daniel Woods in 10th place.
Finalists (top 6 semifinalists)
1. Jule Wurm GER
2. Shauna Coxsey GBR
3. Mélanie Sandoz FRA
4. Alex Johnson USA
5. Anna Stöhr AUT
6. Alex Puccio USA
1. Jakob Schubert AUT
2. Rei Sugimoto JPN
3. Jan Hojer GER
4. Guillaume Glairon Mondet FRA
5. Sean McColl CAN
6. Kilian Fischhuber AUT
Full Semis Results:
Finally have some Internet so I’ll update today and tomorrow with World Cup info and photos. First, here’s an excellent post from Canadian Champion Sean McColl - Vail World Cup 2012 | Sean McColl
As usual Austrian Team Manager Heiko Wilhelm has come out with some spectacular images of the event. Here are some of my favorites:
A couple from qualis
To see the rest check out the Austria Climbing Team on Facebook - Austria Climbing Team
Finals was very exciting in that it came down to the last problem for all categories. I will do more detailed rundowns in a few but for now here are podium shots.
Anna Stöhr won at home. Shauna Coxsey looked like she might win and I guess she didn’t do the 4th problem fast enough. Melissa came in just behind in 3rd with 3 sends in 4 tries, barely edging out Alex Puccio who made 3 sends in 6 tries. Katha was 4th with 3 sends in 11 tries, and Jain Kim was last with 2 sends in 10 tries.
Men’s also came down to the last minute, though after Rustam Gelmanov failed to send the fourth problem (which nobody sent) Kilian knew he’d won. He still gave a good effort on F4 but in the end nobody got past the bonus hold.
Problem breakdowns coming soon!