Toronto happened last weekend and my climbing hold company Kilter was proud to be the hold sponsor. I didn’t get to watch it on time (watched it later) so no full coverage here but my friend John over at Mantle Press Media and I had a conversation about the event for his podcast Chalk Talk. You can listen to it (and find other great podcasts with a variety of climbers and industry folks) on iTunes or over at his site http://www.mantlepressmedia.com. Listen to our conversation and rewatch semis and finals here:
I was busy with the Climbing Wall Association Conference and Setter Showdown at Earth Treks Golden all weekend. We threw a big after party for the CWA at The Spot on Saturday and had another crazy dyno comp with tons of holds from Enix, Element, Kingdom, Nicros, Kilter, UP, Enterprises, Rock Candy, and Metolius. We’re taking some of the dynos down to make some wall space and preserve the problems we had up before cramming so many holds on that wall but don’t worry, some will stay up.
The Setter Showdown was a setting competition in Golden where 24 setters from different gyms came to test themselves in 3 rounds. When the day was over each setter had set 3 problems–two individual and one coset–on pre-assigned walls with pre-assigned holds and pre-assigned grades. The judges, who were Louie Anderson, Mike Helt, and myself, had to watch the setters and give scores for how functional and creative the problems were and how technically adept the setters were. It was a long two days and fairly difficult to judge but everyone had a good time I think and lots of friendships were formed. There should be a video coming soon and I’ll post it.
That’s all for now, sorry there aren’t more photos. Scour Facebook and I’ll post more soon.
The Women’s Qualis video from Stuntwerk shows all 10 climbs from the two qualifying sets of boulders. Once again there are many names I don’t know, as it seems like lots of countries who don’t usually compete are present here and also many younger climbers are here. I wonder how many will continue on to compete in the regular IFSC Bouldering World Cups this season.
The coolest moment I think was probably the figure 4.
Well, and the dyno that resulted in this near miss that Shauna Coxsey captured:
There were some epic falls in the women’s qualifiers yesterday. The boulders looked really cool and made for great watching. Semi finals will be starting at 6pm. You can watch live on the IFSC website. Tune in to cheer on GB athletes 🇬🇧 @leahcraneclimbing and @davebarrans and all of the other wads! #psyched #innsbruck2015 Follow me on Twitter for live updates!
Women’s Quali Results
The girls who made it are a mix of girls we’ve all heard of and been watching for the past several seasons and names that are brand new to me.
1st – In Group B Petra Klingler and Anna Stöhr both flashed everything to tie for first. Katha Saurwein was the highest scoring competitor in Group A, with 4 flashes and a flash to the 5th bonus, so she’s tied for 1st as well. It looks like nobody finished the 5th boulder in Group A.
4th – Dinara Fakhritdinova from Russia was one fall behind Katha in Group A.
5th – Stasa Gejo (SRB) and Katharina Posch (AUT)
7th – Fanny Gibert (FRA) and Jessica Pilz (AUT)
9th – Charlotte Durif (FRA) and one of my favorites, Melissa Le Neve (FRA)
11th – Anna Gallyamova (RUS) and Jernej Kruder’s little sister Julija Kruder (SLO)
13th – Monika Retschy (GER) and Berit Schwaiger (AUT)
15th – Mina Markovic (SLO) and Juliane Wurm (GER) — These two have both won boulder World Cups before
17th – Yulia Abramchuk (RUS) and Hannah Midtboe (NOR)
19th – Leah Crane (GBR — yeah!) and Mélanie Sandoz (FRA)
There were a whopping 67 women total and of those that didn’t make it I’ve only heard of a few of ’em. Good job to everyone on what looked like a heated qualifying round where 3 tops wasn’t always enough to get through.
Semifinals start around 10 Boulder time right here:
YES! The World Cup Bouldering season has nearly started with the European Boulder Championships in Innsbruck. Unfortunately there is no live feed but Udo & co of Stuntwerk made a nice little video of men’s qualis which you should definitely watch as it just shows one man crushing each boulder. There were two heats so there are 10 boulders total.
The Russians Dmitrii and Rustam are looking crazy strong this year. They qualified in 4th and 5th so it’s gonna be interesting to watch semis and see what their weak points are (if any) and it’s gonna be interesting to see who can beat them. From men’s quali results it seems like Gui-Gui, Adam Ondra, and newcomer (to me at least) Michael Piccolruaz from Italy definitely have a chance.
Men’s Quali Results:
1. Gui-Gui tied with Ondra tied with Michael Piccolruaz
5. Rustam tied with Jakob Schubert
3 way tie for 7th: Alban Levier (FRA, new to me), Roands Rugens (LAT – last year he did quite well in one event) and everyone’s hero Jorg Verhoeven (NED)
10. Dave Barrans (GBR)
11. Alexey Rubtsov (RUS) is back and tied with strong young Domen Skofic from Slovenia
13. Two guys I’ve never heard of, Mickael Mawem from France and Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor from Poland.
15. More newcomers to me, Stephane Hanssens from Belgium and Gregor Vezonik from Slovenia
17. Jan Hojer and Martin Stranik (CZE)
19. Mathias Conrad (GER) and Stefan Scarperi (ITA)
Don’t think they get through to semis but two of my personal favorites, Jernej Kruder and Anthony Gullsten, tied for 21st in qualis.
Also out: Jeremy Bonder in 23rd, Nicky De Leeuw (NED) in 31st tied with Lukas Ennemoser (AUT), Benjamin Blaser (SUI) in 33rd, David Firnenburg (GBR) in 40th, Klemen Becan’s little brother Jure Becan (SLO) tied for 41st with Gabri Moroni (ITA), young Brit Nathan Phillips in 47th tied with Elias Weiler (AUT), and Emiliyan Kolevski (BUL) tied for 69th with 3 other guys. That’s everyone I know on the list but there were 86 competitors total, some from countries rarely seen on the WC Circuit, so this could be a very fresh season if they keep competing.
Through a rather roundabout method we’ve heard of http://homerockclimbingwalls.com/ and we are impressed enough to share it with those of you who are interested in home wall info. Building a wall? Use this and other sites on our “General Setting Info” tab to find helpful info. Always consult a professional if you have any questions and to confirm the stability of your structure. Good luck!
Sorry for the general lack of updates. Things are very busy but luckily there is tons of other useful setting info and conversation going on on the internet. The Routesetters Anonymous group on Facebook in particular is a great place for group discussion for setters around the world!
In quick news, I added another link to the site under General Setting Info. A company called Big Deal Volumes has published a handy guide for building a wooden 100 Degree rail triangle volume. Check it out!
We’re full at the moment, but for future reference I really agree with this wonderful post from our friend Brent over at the BRC. Except, you know, we only want people who want to set boulders and who boulder regularly. Read it here: