Psychedelia 2015 – Theme Announcement – Dr. Seuss

October 1, 2015 Leave a comment


The Spot’s 2015 Psychedelia is almost here! This year we’re going all out with our Dr. Seuss theme, and we can’t wait to see what crazy Seussian costumes you all come up with.

Need to know what glows? Read this article from 2013

Remember this sick artwork Hunter Damiani did last year?

Psychedelia 2014 Hunter Damiani Enix art

He’s got big plans for this year as well.

Gonna come? Good! Click below:

Click here to pre-register (recommended, this event will sell out) and more info on The Spot’s main website.

Categories: Uncategorized

World Cup Round Ups for 2015 Season

August 26, 2015 Leave a comment


Well, sorry to say I didn’t manage to write anything about any of the IFSCWC Bouldering events this season. It was a short but quite exciting season, and I did watch all the comps and do podcast roundups with John Blomquist of Chalk Talk Climbing Podcast. If you are interested in our rambling about the events, check out the podcast here:

#1 Toronto

#2 Vail

#3 Haiyang

#4 Chonqing

#5 Munich (World Championship)

John and I will probably do this next season as well and we want to talk about what you want to hear about, so let us know at


IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2015 #1 – Toronto + CWA Dyno Comp & Stuff…

June 1, 2015 Leave a comment

Angie Payne Toronto World Cup 2015

Toronto happened last weekend and my climbing hold company Kilter was proud to be the hold sponsor. I didn’t get to watch it on time (watched it later) so no full coverage here but my friend John over at Mantle Press Media and I had a conversation about the event for his podcast Chalk Talk. You can listen to it (and find other great podcasts with a variety of climbers and industry folks) on iTunes or over at his site Listen to our conversation and rewatch semis and finals here:


2015 Toronto Round Up

I was busy with the Climbing Wall Association Conference and Setter Showdown at Earth Treks Golden all weekend. We threw a big after party for the CWA at The Spot on Saturday and had another crazy dyno comp with tons of holds from Enix, Element, Kingdom, Nicros, Kilter, UP, Enterprises, Rock Candy, and Metolius. We’re taking some of the dynos down to make some wall space and preserve the problems we had up before cramming so many holds on that wall but don’t worry, some will stay up.

The Setter Showdown was a setting competition in Golden where 24 setters from different gyms came to test themselves in 3 rounds. When the day was over each setter had set 3 problems–two individual and one coset–on pre-assigned walls with pre-assigned holds and pre-assigned grades. The judges, who were Louie Anderson, Mike Helt, and myself, had to watch the setters and give scores for how functional and creative the problems were and how technically adept the setters were. It was a long two days and fairly difficult to judge but everyone had a good time I think and lots of friendships were formed. There should be a video coming soon and I’ll post it.

That’s all for now, sorry there aren’t more photos. Scour Facebook and I’ll post more soon.

European Boulder Championships 2015 – Women’s Qualis

May 15, 2015 Leave a comment
Petra Klingler European Boulder Championships 2015 Innsbruck

Petra Klingler looking strong so far this season.


The Women’s Qualis video from Stuntwerk shows all 10 climbs from the two qualifying sets of boulders. Once again there are many names I don’t know, as it seems like lots of countries who don’t usually compete are present here and also many younger climbers are here. I wonder how many will continue on to compete in the regular IFSC Bouldering World Cups this season.

Women’s Quali Video

The coolest moment I think was probably the figure 4.

European Boulder Championships 2015 Innsbruck Women's Qualifiers Figure 4

Well, and the dyno that resulted in this near miss that Shauna Coxsey captured:


Women’s Quali Results

The girls who made it are a mix of girls we’ve all heard of and been watching for the past several seasons and names that are brand new to me.

1st – In Group B Petra Klingler and Anna Stöhr both flashed everything to tie for first. Katha Saurwein was the highest scoring competitor in Group A, with 4 flashes and a flash to the 5th bonus, so she’s tied for 1st as well. It looks like nobody finished the 5th boulder in Group A.

4th –  Dinara Fakhritdinova from Russia was one fall behind Katha in Group A.

5th – Stasa Gejo (SRB) and Katharina Posch (AUT)

7th – Fanny Gibert (FRA) and Jessica Pilz (AUT)

9th – Charlotte Durif (FRA) and one of my favorites, Melissa Le Neve (FRA)

11th – Anna Gallyamova (RUS) and Jernej Kruder’s little sister Julija Kruder (SLO)

13th – Monika Retschy (GER) and Berit Schwaiger (AUT)

15th – Mina Markovic (SLO) and Juliane Wurm (GER) — These two have both won boulder World Cups before

17th – Yulia Abramchuk (RUS) and Hannah Midtboe (NOR)

19th – Leah Crane (GBR — yeah!) and Mélanie Sandoz (FRA)

There were a whopping 67 women total and of those that didn’t make it I’ve only heard of a few of ’em. Good job to everyone on what looked like a heated qualifying round where 3 tops wasn’t always enough to get through.

Full Women’s Results


Semifinals start around 10 Boulder time right here:

European Bouldering Championship 2015 Semifinals




Innsbruck European Boulder Championships 2015 – Men’s Qualifiers

May 14, 2015 Leave a comment

European Championship Bouldering 2015 Innsbruck Austria Jan Hojer

YES! The World Cup Bouldering season has nearly started with the European Boulder Championships in Innsbruck. Unfortunately there is no live feed but Udo & co of Stuntwerk made a nice little video of men’s qualis which you should definitely watch as it just shows one man crushing each boulder. There were two heats so there are 10 boulders total.

Rustam Gelmanov sporting a killer mullet and short shorts as he destroys qualifiers.

Rustam Gelmanov sporting a killer mullet and short shorts as he destroys qualifiers.

The Russians Dmitrii and Rustam are looking crazy strong this year. They qualified in 4th and 5th so it’s gonna be interesting to watch semis and see what their weak points are (if any) and it’s gonna be interesting to see who can beat them. From men’s quali results it seems like Gui-Gui, Adam Ondra, and newcomer (to me at least) Michael Piccolruaz from Italy definitely have a chance.

Men’s Quali Results:

1. Gui-Gui tied with Ondra tied with Michael Piccolruaz

4. Dmitrii

5. Rustam tied with Jakob Schubert

3 way tie for 7th: Alban Levier (FRA, new to me), Roands Rugens (LAT – last year he did quite well in one event) and everyone’s hero Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

10. Dave Barrans (GBR)

11. Alexey Rubtsov (RUS) is back and tied with strong young Domen Skofic from Slovenia

13. Two guys I’ve never heard of, Mickael Mawem from France and Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor from Poland.

15. More newcomers to me, Stephane Hanssens from Belgium and Gregor Vezonik from Slovenia

17. Jan Hojer and Martin Stranik (CZE)

19. Mathias Conrad (GER) and Stefan Scarperi (ITA)

Don’t think they get through to semis but two of my personal favorites, Jernej Kruder and Anthony Gullsten, tied for 21st in qualis.

Also out: Jeremy Bonder in 23rd, Nicky De Leeuw (NED) in 31st tied with Lukas Ennemoser (AUT), Benjamin Blaser (SUI) in 33rd, David Firnenburg (GBR) in 40th, Klemen Becan’s little brother Jure Becan (SLO) tied for 41st with Gabri Moroni (ITA), young Brit Nathan Phillips in 47th tied with Elias Weiler (AUT), and Emiliyan Kolevski (BUL) tied for 69th with 3 other guys. That’s everyone I know on the list but there were 86 competitors total, some from countries rarely seen on the WC Circuit, so this could be a very fresh season if they keep competing.

Full Men’s General Results

Another excellent blog to check out with DIY Info

February 15, 2015 Leave a comment


Through a rather roundabout method we’ve heard of and we are impressed enough to share it with those of you who are interested in home wall info. Building a wall? Use this and other sites on our “General Setting Info” tab to find helpful info. Always consult a professional if you have any questions and to confirm the stability of your structure. Good luck!

Home Rock Climbing Walls

Categories: Uncategorized

New General Setting Info Link – Build a 100 Degree Rail

January 27, 2015 Leave a comment

Sorry for the general lack of updates. Things are very busy but luckily there is tons of other useful setting info and conversation going on on the internet. The Routesetters Anonymous group on Facebook in particular is a great place for group discussion for setters around the world!


In quick news, I added another link to the site under General Setting Info. A company called Big Deal Volumes has published a handy guide for building a wooden 100 Degree rail triangle volume. Check it out!

100 Degree Volume

Categories: Uncategorized

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