Home > Battle In The Bubble, Comps, Random Musings > Battle in The Bubble – Men’s Final 5 – Technique Thoughts

Battle in The Bubble – Men’s Final 5 – Technique Thoughts

Obviously, Men’s Final 5 had to be a really hard problem.  The bulk of the problem was set by Jonny Hork, who took one look at the big purple Climb-It tufa and set to work screwing it on the steepest part of the roof.

First hold on the wall.

The ladder was sketchy (flimsy aluminum on wet plastic) so Jon decided to help Jonny out a bit.  Anyways, with a bit of input from the rest of the team and a lot of his own ideas, Jonny put up what turned out to be a spectacular final problem.  One of the most interesting things about it is that, after a few tries, both Daniel and Julian were getting high on the problem, but Daniel was besting Julian by two moves (even before he stuck the final hold in the dramatic finish).  Here are some pictures I took of their last tries, cause it’s interesting to see what’s different:

Julian

Julian sticking the Halo hold

Throwing his heel in the Halo

Doing an incredibly powerful flag move to the hold far out left.

Straining to reach the left hand hold, but he wasn't quite long enough in the position he was in to grab a hold of it well enough to move on.

It looked like Julian tried as hard as he could to reach that left hand, and he couldn’t quite get it well enough, so he fell off.  That Halo he’s matched in is kinda slopey, and it’s pretty impressive that he did the movement the way he did.  Let’s see how Daniel did it differently:

Daniel

Daniel kept his feet low and used a left foot heel hook on the tufa for the hand move out left.

He matched his right foot on the tufa, moved his left heel to a toe, and now he's in a good position to get his right heel up with his body already high.

With a high body and good heel, he can do the powerful move to the next high right handhold.

On his first two tries, Daniel did these same moves, but he seemed to be barely hanging on.  Before this try he had a 2 minute rest, and it showed.  In this sequence he is much stronger, and locked off much higher on his left hand and right heel, so the move to the high right hand isn’t so stretched out this time.  Also, his foot cut isn’t quite as dramatic as the one you saw in this post: Battle in The Bubble Goes Off HUGE!!! This go, his last, he easily got his feet back on, hucked sideways for the finish hold, and somehow, magically, stuck it.  The crowd went absolutely wild, competitors rushed the mats to hug Daniel, and everybody had huge grins on their faces.  It was a fantastic ending to a great event.

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  1. May 18, 2010 at 6:30 pm

    Good reports, Jackie!

  2. Jackie
    May 18, 2010 at 7:20 pm

    Thanks!

  3. Ivan Rezucha
    May 18, 2010 at 7:35 pm

    Hi Jackie —

    I noticed immediately the difference in Julian’s vs Daniel’s attempts on the final problem. Maybe their different strengths led the the different techniques. On the other hand, with all the pressure, it would of have been hard for Julian to decide to try that move a completely different way after his first try.

    A couple of other somewhat related observations:

    It was interesting to see some of the best climbers fall of the earlier problems. Daniel Woods fell off the M1, although due to trying it totally differently from everyone else by underclinging off the lower of the two big blobs on the right. It must be tough to be optimistic about continuing on to the harder problems after struggling on earlier problems. Maybe this means that the problems, although progressively harder from 1 to 5, were not that much harder?

    It was very interesting to see how the later (non wild card) climbers on M1 tried to move out left to that hold. The earlier climbers may have thought immediately, “No way!”, and just went for the dyno. The later climbers either gave that hold out left a long look before deciding against it or actually went out left. Really impressive was Gabor(?) hanging from his toes, then turning right side up, then dropping to the lower hold, and then moving out left. And then Julian(???) statically (more or less) reached from the far left old up to the finishing hold.

    Ivan

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