Home > Left Dojo, New Holds!, Right Dojo, Setting Update, The Full Dojo > Setting Update for 8.18 and 8.19

Setting Update for 8.18 and 8.19

Most of us set 3 days this week, since we were on the Dojo and we did such a good job on the left Dojo on Tuesday that we felt the only thing to do was set the Right Dojo next.  We stripped it Wednesday morning and set a bunch of problems from 3 spot to 5 spot.

The Right Dojo on Wednesday Afternoon.

Despite having some of the biggest jugs in the world to set the roof with…

Biggest Jugs in The World!!! Most from our post-Battle order with finals hold sponsor Climb It

…the balance of the set was a little more toward the 4 and 5 end of the spectrum.  Actually, it was almost all 4’s and 5’s, though you should remember that a Right Dojo 4 spot is often juggier than a 3 on the river wall.  Anyways, today the boys and special guest setter Mark Heal from Brooklyn Boulders (a sweet gym in, you guessed it, Brooklyn) added a bunch more new problems and tried to even things out a little.  Brooklyn Boulders has a setting blog as well, though theirs is a little bit different than ours.

Guest Setter Mark Heal from Brooklyn Boulders

Oh yeah, and to continue the taping revolution, on Wednesday I tried out the fang technique.

The Fangs Taping Method

Or at least I think that’s what I’ll call it.  Other suggestions???

  1. josh
    August 23, 2010 at 11:03 am

    I like the new taping style for the most part; the accents falling off was always annoying! My only suggestion would be avoid setting so many similarly colored problems near each other. At the start of the vertical section of the Dojo, where Left meets Right, there are like three or four different “orange” routes (granted, with different accents). When I’m pumped out of my gourd, I have a hard time distinguishing “burnt tangerine” from “autumn pumpkin.”

  2. Jackie
    August 23, 2010 at 7:50 pm

    Hey Josh! No kidding about the too few tape colors. We’re doing our best with what’s available to us, and a lot of companies that make a larger variety of colors than the one we order from also make tape that doesn’t stick to the wall as well. Hence, we have to get creative with our taping to allow more problems in any given space. Still, we try not to make it too confusing, so thanks for the heads up and we’ll try to keep things as clear as possible. : )

  3. James
    August 24, 2010 at 1:09 pm

    Have you guys tried gaffer’s tape, Jackie? I found it stuck really well to the textured concrete walls I set on in grad school. Also, you can get it in several widths – the narrow stuff (usually called spike tape) is awesome for accents.

    Gaff tape can be pricey, but is well worth it, in my opinion.

  4. Jackie
    August 25, 2010 at 6:44 am

    Hi James. Yes, we do use gaffer’s tape sometimes, especially for Psychedelia. Day-to-day, considering how much tape we go through, it’s just more economical to use the tape we use, which sticks pretty well and also comes in several widths (though we usually just go with 1″, cause it’s fairly easy to tear stripes.) I’ve never heard the term “spike tape” but I’ll surely look it up–I’m assuming it’s 1/4″ to 1/2″ wide? The main color we’re missing right now is Purple, we have all the other main ones and the neons and whatnot. I think the main problem is that we’ve been setting at such a higher density than before, and some problems traverse, so we have to really mix up the colors/accents. But do not despair, for the taping revolution continues!

  5. jdavidh
    August 25, 2010 at 9:11 am

    Spike tape is a theater term – it’s used a lot for marking the positions of set pieces on stage, or for temporary labeling on sound and light boards. You guessed right in that it’s usually 1/2″ widths. Most of it is made from the same material as gaff tape, it’s just convenient to have it on the thinner rolls.

    As an aside, I really appreciate the weird pattern-based taping schemes you guys are using. I’m colorblind, so having the extra identifier of accents on weird angles, or different styles of overlaps, can make a huge difference in my ability to follow routes. When I was setting a lot, I used the “draw a pattern with a sharpie” technique frequently, but I definitely prefer the approach you are taking.

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