Home > Comps, Left River, Right River, SBS VI, Setting Update, Taping Revolution > The Gun Show!!! – recap, results, and reset update, and a little bit of Alex

The Gun Show!!! – recap, results, and reset update, and a little bit of Alex

The Gun Show 2010 !!!


After a few not-so-heinous days of routesetting (52 problems in 5 categories + 2 pro finals) The Gun Show went off great this Saturday! As you may know, Carlo is out of town, and Jonny has been working nights in the ER, so with short bouts out for coaching (Garrett) and school (Jay Jay and Nick Sherman), the comp got set by me, Jon, Garrett, Nick, and Jay Jay. Our helpful volunteer Tara Gee also helped out by getting some of the youth problems set, and the rest of our volunteers were awesome with stripping holds, cleaning up, washing, stickering, bannering, and everything else that needed doing. Thank you Jake, Jeff, Doug, Chris, Andy, Brian, James, and, of course, everyone’s favorite chiropractor–Brent Apgar.

Can you guess whose hold pile this is? Looks like O9 and O10 to me...

Sadly I don’t have nearly enough pictures to support all the stuff I want to talk about here, so I’ll just do a quick recap and you can watch more when Jon’s pro finals video shows up in the next couple of days.

The youth event started out great at 1pm when over 150 kids representing 12 different teams (plus a few free agents) crushed their way through the youth, rec, intermediate, advanced, and even a few open problems.  With the help of the lovely and talented Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou we checked the problems up to the easy Os to eliminate most height-specific cruxes with extra hands or feet.  There were a couple we left as-is, like the lovely dyno problem A9, cause most of the kids were going to be able to climb it and there were enough hard problems for the shortest kids without A9.  A7 was one we did hope the D categories would climb, and after a bit of beta messing and a small crimp addition we thought we had it.  Then came comp day, and we realized the one little problem:

Youth phenom Brooke Raboutou showing how you can't start a problem if you can't grab both the start holds at the same time.

Oops.  We figured the littler climbers would be able to grab one hold and at least touch the other, but no dice.  After some discussion we fixed up the rules for Ds on the problem so they could start with only one of the 2 tape start boxes, and, after the announcement, many younger climbers came over and crushed the problem easily.  Preliminary results for the youth climbers and teams are posted here: The Gun Show Youth Preliminary Results.  If you see any errors in the results please email events@thespotgym.com so we can fix them before final results are posted on Wednesday.

One more note–we are excited that so many teams came out to challenge themselves, and it was really nice to have kids from as far away as Momentum gym in Utah come all the way to The Spot to get their kids used to trying hard at comps so they will be more likely to succeed on a National level.  Thanks for coming guys!

The adult comp was similarly successful, though slightly smaller, than the youth event.  In an unusual twist, the largest categories were the Advanced and Open for both genders.  Usually we have far more rec and intermediate climbers, and, as usual, there were just as many problems of just as good quality set for those categories–so where were you guys?  Climbing comps can be a really fun way to test yourself and get a great work out at the same time, plus we feed you and give you free beer, and you can win great raffle prizes, compete in our special events, and watch a sweet open finals.  They are supposed to be a fun community event, not just a “watch the strong kids” comp like the Battle in the Bubble finals.  Don’t be intimidated, come out and have fun!  For all who did show up, check out The Gun Show Adult Preliminary Results and let us know asap if you see any problems.  Final results will be posted on Wednesday.

The adult comp culminated with the 5 guy 5 girl open finals problem, in which the top 5 scoring climbers from the Open categories were given 4 minutes apiece to do their best on one hard boulder.  Unlike the last few years, at this year’s open finals the competitors were not allowed to watch each other, meaning each climber had to figure out the beta and send in their 4 minute window.  If they got on the wall at 3:59 they could climb til they fell off, but overall the 4 minute window meant 3 attempts per climber.  The women’s field turned out to be way more stacked then we were expecting, given that Alex Puccio and Alex Johnson are both out of town.  I actually think it was the biggest women’s open field we’ve had at a regular Spot event (not counting Gladiator Finals or BITB).  After the 3 hours of climbing, our female finalists were (in order of place) Gabi Masse (on her 2nd year as a Boulder local), Lizzy Asher (visiting from Vancouver), Portia Menlove (visiting from Salt Lake), Chelsea Rude (Movement youth coach), and Chauncey Cox (US Adult Team member).  The guys were Matty Hong (Steve Hong’s son, who is also on the US National Youth Team), Ben Spannuth (organizer of the Collegiate Climbing Series, among other things), Adam Markert (Vail Coach and US Adult Team member who was feeling quite ill but competed anyways), Weston Ureda (a recent transplant from So Cal), and darkhorse Matt Ray (regular Spot climber).

I would give you a play-by-play of the finals, but I don’t want to ruin the suspense of the sure-to-be-awesome video Jon is putting together.  I’ll post a link when it’s up, or you can keep checking his site for it: Jon Glassberg at Louder Than 11.com.

Results: Click the links above for the full results, but here are the winners:

Female Rec – Bri Tosby

Female Intermediate – Tiara Ward

Female Advanced – Taylor Nystrom

Female Open – Gabi Masse (main comp and open final)

Female Masters – Bobbi Bensman

Men Rec – Brett Otsaki

Men Intermediate – Seth Sivinski

Men Advanced – Kim-lee Tuxhorn

Men Open – Matty Hong (main comp), Ben Spannuth (open final)

Men Masters – Pete Youngwerth

Reset Update:

On top of the 52 comp problems, today we began the reset by adding a bunch of problems of all grades to the entire river wall.  I don’t remember final count, but me, Jon, Garrett, and Jay Jay set at least 7 problems each (Jon may have set up to 9), so that’s at least 28 new boulders, and maybe as many as 30.  Tomorrow and the rest of the week we will be continuing the ‘light fill’ phase of the reset, so hopefully by Saturday the gym will look sort of normal again.  If you are going to The Spot tonight, check out Jon’s yellow sloper masterpiece on the left river.  Yes, it does go.  It hasn’t yet, but the moves have been done, some have even been linked.  It’s certainly a testpiece.  There are also a couple of dynos and many other bits of wonderfulness to keep you fit and keep you thinking.

And finally, a little bit of Alex:

We are proud and happy for our friend and long time Spot climber Alex Puccio who scored the cover of Outside Magazine this month!   To see what’s inside the mag, pick one up at your local wherever, or check out this article from Elephant Journal.  Go Alex!


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