Home > Comps, Outdoor Climbing, SBS VI, Setting Update > Psychedelia 2010 – post post 2 – #s and Finals – A silly video – Carlo’s trip – and reset update

Psychedelia 2010 – post post 2 – #s and Finals – A silly video – Carlo’s trip – and reset update

The front of the Hueco at Psychedelia 2010

Psychedelia 2010

We knew that Psychedelia seemed a little crowded this year, and now that we’ve seen the numbers we know for sure that it was the biggest year yet!  Between the two sessions (youth, from 1-4 and adult, from 6-9) we had 512 competitors and, for the adult session, another 478 people came in as spectators!  On top of the costume contest (won by “Hamburger Helper” for the women, which was Bray Lake dressed up as the giant Hamburger Helper hand, and “Ape Index” for the men, which was some dude with super extendo-arms on his costume) and the gigantic raffle, and the fire dancing, and the fabric dancing, and the sweet blacklight artwork show by skaadi, we hooked the competitors and spectators up with free Avery beer and Wahoo’s.  Cause we’re cool like that.  Then we threw the most rockin’ Psychedelia finals yet.

The hanging bones for the women's problem

Finals

The men’s problem had a toxic waste theme, and involved climbing up the right side of the beach to a gigantic bright-orange suspended steel toxic waste drum with hazardous green goo oozing down toward the holds screwed onto the bottom and sides.  The men had to climb some difficult moves and a sloper deadpoint up the Beach, then lean/jump out to the barrel, then get it swinging and get back over to the most overhung part of the Beach and get back on the wall for the finish.  The women’s problem followed a huge tape art Japanese wood-cut style wave that our buddy Hunter Damiani made for us.  He was going to make a skeleton ship too, but he ran out of time.  Anyways, the women’s problem climbed up the wave to some large hanging glowing bones.  The women had to lean out off some slopers and grab the first bone, then swing to the next, then back down to the wall and more wave.  From there they had to climb around and up to a third bone, then back onto the wall for a sloping finish.  Because both problems were so much longer than the last finals, we gave competitors 5 minutes each to climb them, and if you were on the wall before your 5 minutes was up, you were allowed to finish your try.

The Toxic Waste Barrel on the men's problem

To choose the finalists we compiled the scores from the youth and adult comps, and the top 6 competitors of each gender were, in reverse order:  Tyler Haack & Kara Caputo, Alex Manikowski & Chauncenia Cox, Gabor Szekely & Larissa Phillips, Adam Markert & Nina Williams, Matty Hong & Lily Ridgley, and Rob D’Anastasio & Gabi Masse.  Once the crowd got settled and we stripped a few holds, we were ready for finals.

Jonny trying out the base paint suit for the setter's Toxic Waste handler costumes. We had to paint them flourescent cause the white just didn't glow very well.

Women’s Route

Kara Caputo lead off strong for the women, with a masterful swinging performance on the bones that got the crowd screaming.  After dropping back to the wall and climbing down and across the face she fell off 2x on the technical perch move to a pocket before the climb up to the third bone.  Next out was consistent competitor Chauncenia Cox (aka Chauncey).  Though she almost bobbled the bone moves, Chauncey recovered to stick the pocket Kara fell on, flip her left hand to an under-ham-hock, and slip off while slapping the huge sloper that was the first of two compression moves before the 3rd bone.  Unfortunately, Chauncey was unable to regain her high point on subsequent attempts.  The third girl out, Larissa Phillips, also struggled with the bones, but recovered herself and, after touching a higher hold with the wrong hand and out of order, dropped down through the correct holds and fell off just past Kara’s highpoint.  Nina Williams came next, and didn’t fare much better than Kara or Larissa had.  Lily Ridgely and Gabi Masse were our last hope for a send, and for some reason they both got really flummoxed by the drop down and perch moves and neither was able to best Chauncey’s sloper slap.  As the setter, I wish the girls had been able to make the transition from power (bones) to technique (perch) a little bit better, but I guess it’s hard to change your stride in the dark, with a crowd screaming at you, after having already climbed for three hours.  The other technical part of what turned out to be the crux was hand placements–if you got your left hand on the small incut instead of the higher sloper, it was easier to perch and surf out right, because you could pull out from the wall instead of balancing quite as much.  C’est la vie though, I suppose.  The wild swinging on the bones still provided a very exciting women’s finals, and we’ll leave the problem up for a few more days at least in case anyone wants try it before we take the bones off the wall.  Come climb it while you can, cause everything is ephemeral, right?

Women’s Open Final:

1. Chauncey Cox

2. Larissa Phillips

3. Nina Williams

4. Kara Caputo

5. Gabi Masse

6. Lilly Ridgely

Not the women's final, but a sweet Intermediate prob with a genie and a lamp.

Men’s Final

This problem got toned down a lot from the original set, and it’s a good thing it did, cause it proved to be pretty tough for all the guys in finals.  Tyler Haack (a strong kid from Wisconsin) and Alex Manikowski (a few years in Boulder now) came out first and seemed to have a pretty hard time on the lower section and deadpoint.  Gabor Szekely, dressed as a pirate, made a good showing and to the roars of the crowd, actually got a hand on the hanging toxic waste barrel, but he was unable to match on it and then couldn’t make it back to his highpoint.  Crowd favorite Adam Markert, climbing in his traditional (and appropriate) spiderman costume, got both hands on the barrel and proceeded to spend almost 2 minutes doing various spidey poses–much to the crowd’s delight.  The hanging upside-down apparently sapped his energy though, cause he couldn’t get himself back to the wall and had to call it quits.  Matty Hong was next, and showed why he’s one of the best up and coming climbers in America when he flashed through the barrel and back to the wall before falling off on a difficult cross to a sloper.  He fell there 2 more times, the most dramatic of which was the 3rd when the photographer’s flash went off right as he slapped, giving everybody a second of blindness in which it wasn’t clear if Matty was on the hold or flying through the air, and then our eyes recovered and he was down on the mats.  Last out was Rob D’Anastasio, called Rob D by pretty much everybody, who has been the darkhorse of the American comp climbing scene for so long that it isn’t really surprising when he shows up randomly at a comp and then wins.  Which is what he did here.  He didn’t quite best Matty’s highpoint, but he managed to match it, and match the hold, and get both feet almost wrapped around the steel drum in the manner that, had he had another try on the problem, would have assured success as he slapped for the slopey pinch just before the finish.  The crowd was going ballistic as he looked, for one second, like he was going to stick it, and then he fell, and finals were over, and everyone seemed really, really psyched.

Men’s Finals:

1. Rob D

2. Matty Hong

3. Adam Markert

4. Gabor Szekely

5. Tyler Haack

6. Alex Manikowski

Sweet pvc for a couple of Psychedelia problems. They ended up both being Open but several kids were able to climb out the left pipe!

Adult Results

http://www.thespotgym.com/Files/PDFs/2010aresultpsyc.pdf

Youth results were posted, but we had an excel issue and they were a little messed up, so they’ve been pulled til we get ’em sorted correctly.

Shining stars!

Silly Video

Here is a silly video James Davidheiser made that shows off a few of the special problems at this year’s Psychedelia.  We tried to spread out the special to all the categories–the first 2 in this video are rec problems!  The 3rd is part of the women’s final.  We had other special features as well that are not featured here.  Remember the pvc pipes from last year’s event? Well they were back in action and on the dojo for the citizen’s comp.  The river wall turned into the video game wall, and Pitfall (aka Jellyfish vs. Spider), Tetris, PacMan, and CastleVania were all represented.  PacMan was especially cool, as Jay Jay painted a PacMan game on a volume and we put little holds on it that fit in the board and looked like ghosts and PacMan himself.

Jay Jay made the PacMan volume!

Video game wall! This is before the decorations were complete...

Start ghost!!!

Tetris!!!

If you missed Psychedelia, you should come in to the gym to see more before we tear all the decorations down.  Which brings me to….

The Reset

For day 1 of the reset we attacked, you guessed it, the river wall.  The crew was large–Me, Jon, Jonny, Jay Jay, and Danny–and we put up a bunch of problems including 3 1 spots, some 2 spots, some 3 spots, some 4 spots, and even a couple 5 spots.  I didn’t get any pictures, but I think we hit all the grades with several different styles, so let us know if you want to see anything special in the next few weeks as we reset and we will keep it in mind.

Ghosties!

Carlo’s Trip

As you’ve probably noticed, Carlo is still on his vacation.  Things are going well, and on top of his other awesome sends Carlo just did another V14 – The Dagger.  Wanna know more?  Check his blog.

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  1. December 3, 2010 at 10:50 am

    when it comes to video games, i enjoy playing those that have very nice graphics and story like Plantz and Zombies .,~

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