Home > 2010 Hold Test, 2011 Hold Test > Hold Review Update

Hold Review Update

Hold Review Update

There are only a few days left for the hold review!  Below is a short discussion of what has gone on thus far and also the logos from each company who sent holds for the review.  I didn’t link the logos to their websites but if you’re interested in checking any of them out please Google them, and please come check out their holds before we take ’em down!

I’ve had a chance to look over the first batch of hold review forms, and overall they offered excellent feedback, but unfortunately that feedback came from only 4 people.

I’d like to have an accurate idea of how most regular Spot climbers feel about the holds, which means that I need more than 4 opinions.

Several reasons occurred to me that we may not have gotten more feedback.

Firstly, when I showed up today, we were out of forms. That situation has been remedied, with additional feedback sections on the back of each sheet so you don’t have to use one small section of multiple forms and instead can use only a couple of pages to get many reviews done.

(On this note, I’d like to thank Nate Coffman for reading the original directions and free-handing extra feedback on the backs of the original sheets.  Props for paying attention, Nate.)

The forms are available at the front desk, and the deskies have instructions as to how to print up more should we run out.


Again, there will be a prize for the most good feedback and another randomly chosen from all testers who test 3 companies or more.

The second reason I think we may not have had a variety of feedback is the difficulty factor.  Due in part to the wall the problems were set on and the style of holds some companies sent, it was impossible to set anything harder than a 5 or 5+ with some of the holds.  Therefore, many of the tester problems are difficult.

However, you do not have to send the problem to check out the holds.  You can climb up a nearby problem and grope them if you like, or try the problem and give your impressions from that.

You can even just look at the holds and grab them from the ground, and give us feedback on that.  See a cool hold you want to grab, even though you don’t want to climb the problem?  We still want to hear about it.  Feel free to add any sort of hold-related commentary on the review sheets.

Speaking of the review sheets, I thought it might be useful to further clarify what we are looking for from them, so, apologies if this all seems obvious, but here it goes:

1. Initial Impression – How much do you want to climb on the holds just from looking at them?  Do they get you psyched?  Are you afraid of them?  Why?

2. Texture – How do the holds feel to your hands?  Could you climb on them for a long time, or would they wreck your skin?  Are they too slippery?  Would you gravitate towards them or shy away in a normal gym session?

3. Pleasantness – Do you like grabbing the holds, or do they hold your hand/fingers/wrist at a funny angle?  Basically, are they friendly, or not friendly?

4. Impression after climbing on them – So, now you’ve used the holds, so what do you think?  What was good/bad about them?  Were they different than you thought they’d be?

5. Any holds that stand out – Use this section to mention anything you particularly liked or hated about specific holds, i.e., that macro-feature was sweet, or the cross-hatch texture climbed better than it looked, or whatever else you have to say.

Basically, we want to know how you like the holds, so in the review we can assign things like “climber’s choice” and use your commentary and opinions along with our own to represent as large a sample of indoor climbers as we can.

So far, some of the reviewer’s favorite holds are a set that the setters weren’t too taken with.  This kind of information is crucial, because it will help other gyms and climbers get an idea of what they may or may not like to order for their own walls.

The wall comes down on Thursday night, so if you’re interested in helping us out and giving your opinion about these new grips, please please please get in there and review them before they’re down.

If you have questions, comments, or opinions you didn’t write down but still want to share, please email spotsetters@gmail.com.


Thanks everyone!


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: