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Archive for February, 2011

Vail World Cup 2010 Finals Video

February 21, 2011 Leave a comment

Well, this footage has been sitting around for many months, but it’s been raining so I put together a little video from last year’s World Cup finals.  All the finalists are shown at least once and problems 2-4 of each gender can be seen.  Enjoy!

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Categories: Comps, Video, World Cup

ABS Nationals 2011 Video from LT11

February 17, 2011 Leave a comment

If you haven’t seen it already:

Jon’s site with pictures: 2011 ABS Nationals!!!!

Categories: Comps

The Softer Side of Jay Jay

February 15, 2011 3 comments

Nice welding gear!

It occurred to me the other day that most of the on-and-on on this blog is about the boys, and is narrated by me. I, and the other female member of the setting team (that is, the infamous Jay Jay Jeffery) tend to stay behind the scenes.  But why?  Where else are there two female setters at one gym?  Probably several places, actually, but the female setter is still a fairly rare thing.  There aren’t even enough of us to make a calendar!  Anyways, so a while ago Jay Jay got this note in the suggestions box:

Which is nice.  It’s good that someone appreciates the more technical side of setting that is common amongst female setters (and Jonny).  However, there is much more to appreciate about us.  Jay Jay, for example, is simultaneously attending school–art school, no less!–and setting at the Spot.  I decided it was high time to share her other gift with the world, in case you hadn’t been in while we were setting to hear her talking about her new table saw or see her working on the Ban-Jay between problems.  So here are some pictures of some of her work, and I asked her some questions as well.

Paintings and Pastels

JPH: So where do you go to school, and for what?

JJ: I’m going to Metro [State, in Denver].  I’m actually majoring in Industrial Design with a minor in Studio Arts.  I plan on designing whatever I can when I’m done, but most specifically portable living units–like tents and cars you can live in!  So awesome!

JPH: Super awesome for climbers!

Sculpture and Installation

JPH: It seems like you’ve done quite a variety of work.  What is it your program like?

JJ: I get to learn how to manipulate wood, metal, and plastic, and I am one of only 15 or so girls in the entire program…kinda like you and me in the setting world!

JPH: Do you see setting as art, like an extension of your program?

JJ: I definitely see setting as art.  It’s like sculptural installation art!

The Ban-Jay

Thanks Jay Jay!!!

Categories: Setters Tags: ,

ABS Nationals Results

February 14, 2011 Leave a comment

Men’s Semifinals

Things were looking good heading into semifinals, but, well, I have no idea what happened because I didn’t see it, but after the dust settled Carlo and Jon were in 22nd and 23rd, Garrett was in 18th, and Daniel Woods was in 10th, and the group of 8 men going into finals looked about halfway like The Gladiator Final or the Battle in The Bubble, with just a tad of Canada to make things exciting.  So the running order for men’s finals was:

8. Alex Johnson (Gladiator Finals 3rd place winner)

7. Matty Hong (2nd place at Psychedelia and Highline/Highball)

6. Nic Sherman (Setter for SBS Season VI)

5. Zach Lerner (strong kid from the East)

4. Ian Dory (Multi-time SBS VI finalist, 2nd at Gladiator Finals)

3. Kyle Owen (Remember his crazy sideways dynos on the Hueco boulder?)

2. Austin Geiman (Almost took a digger on final 1 at the Battle in The Bubble)

1. Sean McColl (Canadian wunder-climber)

Women’s Semifinals

Things on the women’s side kept looking strong, with the 3 A’s at the top of the pack and a few other strong ladies you’ve most likely heard of filling out the 7 finalists.  In reverse qualification order (i.e. finals running order) they were:

7. Kasia Pietras

6. Sasha DiGiulian

5. Tiffany Hensley (multi-time SBS VI winner)

4. Francesca Metcalf

3. Alex Johnson

2. Angela Payne

1. Alex Puccio

Finals

I’d love to describe this in detail, but I didn’t see any of it.  Luckily, the results were posted here: UBC Results & Running Orders.  Unluckily, at the moment they aren’t working, but if you click the link I bet they’ll be back up.  I don’t remember anything besides top 3, who were:

Men:

1. Sean McColl

2. Alex Johnson

3. Kyle Owen

Women:

1. Alex Puccio

2. Francesca Metcalf

3. Sasha DiGiulian

Incidentally, because Sean is Canadian, I think it means that Alex Johnson is officially the best male boulderer in America at the moment.  Also interesting, both 2nd placers and women’s 3rd place are under 19 years old, and men’s 3rd place Kyle Owen is only 20.  Sean and Alex aren’t a whole lot older, at 23 and 21, respectively, but they’re already some of the older competitors in a game that is increasingly being taken over by the young guns.  Anyways, here is a link to an article that the Boulder Daily Camera put together that has a video and photos including one of our very own Carlo: Climbers take on Boulder warehouse walls in colorful championship event – Boulder Daily Camera.  I’ll post more media if I see it, but in the meantime check out Facebook for photos from many of the competitors.

 

 

 

 

2011 ABS Nationals! 4 Spot Setters make Semifinals!!!

February 12, 2011 Leave a comment

Well, I’m in France, but everyone else is home and the boys (except Danny, geez Danny) are all wrapped up in ABS Nationals.  You probably already know this, but Nationals is being held in Boulder, in a warehouse just a stone’s throw from The Spot, where the walls were specially built by John Stack of Vertical Solutions and his crew of climbers including, for a while, our very own Carlo.  Here is a video Jon put together that gives a little preview of the walls, if you haven’t seen them already:

So qualifiers went down yesterday, and Jon, Carlo, Garrett, and Nic competed in them.  Jonny, who has, for the past several years, enjoyed a career of forerunning (i.e. helping set) for USA Climbing’s biggest events, was signed on for this event as an official routesetter.  Nice job, Jonny!  As for the other boys, after yesterday’s qualifier, I am proud to report that all 4 made semifinals, with Carlo in 5th (just 1 fall away from the 4-way tie for 1st), Jon just 1 fall behind him in a tie for 7th, Nic just one fall behind him in 9th, and Garrett one send away in 16th.  Also present in the semifinals running order are Spot comp regulars Daniel Woods and Matty Hong (part of the 4-way 1st place tie), as well as other pro finalists you have seen over SBS Season VI including Rob D’Anastasio, Alex Johnson, Austin Geiman, Ian Dory, Alex Manikowski, and Matt Wilder.  For full male quali results, click here: Men’s Quali Results.  The running order for today will be the opposite of this, so Matt Wilder, in 24th here, will go first, etc… until Daniel finishes off semis.  Carlo wrote a little about it on his blog here: Carlo Traversi » Blog Archive » ABS Nationals – Qualifiers.  Besides helping build the wall, setting and resetting The Gladiator Finals, and training for Nationals, Carlo made a cool video that gives a little behind-the-scenes look at our setting team sponsor, Verve Climbing, and the man behind the best climbing clothing on the market.  Check it out:

The women’s qualifiers was stacked, resulting in several usual competitors not making semifinals what looks like it will shape up to be a very interesting finals.  Here is the semifinals running order: Women’s Semi’s Order.

To watch semis live, go down to the warehouse, or click here: UBC: Unified Bouldering Championships and watch online!

Also, the boys have put together what is sure to be a legendary after party.  Entrance is free with your ABS Nationals spectator pass, or you can get in for $10 at the door.  Beer, great electronic music, and tons of pro climbers.  11pm.  Check it out here: The Official ABS Nationals After Party!

 

Categories: Comps, Setters Tags:
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