Home > Setters > The Softer Side of Jay Jay

The Softer Side of Jay Jay

Nice welding gear!

It occurred to me the other day that most of the on-and-on on this blog is about the boys, and is narrated by me. I, and the other female member of the setting team (that is, the infamous Jay Jay Jeffery) tend to stay behind the scenes.  But why?  Where else are there two female setters at one gym?  Probably several places, actually, but the female setter is still a fairly rare thing.  There aren’t even enough of us to make a calendar!  Anyways, so a while ago Jay Jay got this note in the suggestions box:

Which is nice.  It’s good that someone appreciates the more technical side of setting that is common amongst female setters (and Jonny).  However, there is much more to appreciate about us.  Jay Jay, for example, is simultaneously attending school–art school, no less!–and setting at the Spot.  I decided it was high time to share her other gift with the world, in case you hadn’t been in while we were setting to hear her talking about her new table saw or see her working on the Ban-Jay between problems.  So here are some pictures of some of her work, and I asked her some questions as well.

Paintings and Pastels

JPH: So where do you go to school, and for what?

JJ: I’m going to Metro [State, in Denver].  I’m actually majoring in Industrial Design with a minor in Studio Arts.  I plan on designing whatever I can when I’m done, but most specifically portable living units–like tents and cars you can live in!  So awesome!

JPH: Super awesome for climbers!

Sculpture and Installation

JPH: It seems like you’ve done quite a variety of work.  What is it your program like?

JJ: I get to learn how to manipulate wood, metal, and plastic, and I am one of only 15 or so girls in the entire program…kinda like you and me in the setting world!

JPH: Do you see setting as art, like an extension of your program?

JJ: I definitely see setting as art.  It’s like sculptural installation art!

The Ban-Jay

Thanks Jay Jay!!!

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Categories: Setters Tags: ,
  1. Scott Strong
    February 15, 2011 at 6:56 am

    Awesome banjay banjo lookin’ thing! That is serious business!

    And why aren’t there more female route setters? Women climb on men’s problems all the time. I want to climb on a lady’s route. That’d be killer.

    Do men or women set for the women at climbing comps?

  2. Jay Jay
    February 15, 2011 at 8:16 am

    I’m glad u like the banjo! You should hear it! Anyways regarding comp setting, it’s almost always men setting the Womens problems. I only know of maybe 2 women who sometimes set for nationals and the like… Other then the Spot Comps (with Jackie and I setting) there are even less female setters in the competition scene. Probably because it’s hard even for guys to get into those setter clicks.

  3. Scott Strong
    February 15, 2011 at 9:42 am

    That is a travesty! There definitely need to be more women setting! I think I will bounce the idea of female setters off one of the setters here in Dallas.

    Also, your metal work piece is dope!!

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