Home > Comps, Setting Update, World Cup > Setting Update for 6/14 and 6/15 + In Depth Vail World Cup Video

Setting Update for 6/14 and 6/15 + In Depth Vail World Cup Video

Let’s see, for this week, June 14th and 15th, we stripped and reset the Font boulder. Tuesday Danny, Carlo, Jonny, and I stripped and set all morning, then in the afternoon Nic came in to help us finish up some problems and forerun.  Today Jon was finally back from Virgin Gorda, Jay-Jay was finally back from Spain, and Garrett was back from coaching Team ABC.  Jonny was out prepping for his 3-day hospital shift marathon, but the rest of us were all there to wash holds and fill in all manner of problems around the entire Font boulder.  As usual, there are many problems of many grades for everyone to enjoy.  There are several dynos including an optional dyno on the brown 3 spot just left of the down climb (dyno from the two gray Etch sidepulls to the brown Franklin Font pocket).  There are also several slabs, including one that was conceived as feet-only (all foot-only holds are marked “foot”) but proved to be almost impossible after other holds were put on the wall.  I added a few handholds (marked “hand”) and natural hands are on as well to help you balance your way up the slab.  Next to that is Jon’s companion problem, “fetish”.

World Cup Video by Udo Neumann, aka Udini

Udo Neumann has long been one of the great analyzers of climbing technique, movement, and what does and does not lead to success.  He has many interesting videos on his youtube channel – YouTube – ‪therealudini’s Channel‬‏ – including this recent 22 minute piece on the 2011 Vail World Cup of bouldering.

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