Archive for June 24, 2011

Unified Bouldering Championships happening today and tomorrow in Central Park NYC! Qualis and Semis Results

June 24, 2011 Leave a comment

This Vertical Solutions-made comp wall is sitting in Central Park, New York City, just waiting for the top 6 men and women from today’s semifinals to try and win part of a $10,000 prize purse.  You may remember Vertical Solutions from a few years ago when John Stack came out and applied his plywood bending skills to create The Dojo.  More recently, VS built the USAC Nationals bouldering wall in Boulder.

The New York Times wrote an article about the event, which actually sounds pretty good considering the way climbing is usually portrayed in media.  The headline could use some work though:  Rock Climbing Stars to Clamber in Central Park.

The pro final is part of the greater Adventures NYC event, which sounds kinda like the Teva Mountain Games, except it’s smack dab in the middle of New York City.  The organizers are estimating tens of thousands of people will attend the free event, and with tons of family friendly attractions it seems like climbing may get a lot of exposure here.

Spot Staff in NYC


Setters Jon Glassberg and Garrett Gregor both went out to New York to compete in qualifiers and try to earn a place in finals.  Jon qualified for semifinals in 7th and Garrett barely missed in 22nd.  For the women’s category, Spot coach Tiffany Hensley qualified for semis in 6th.

Other climbers who often show up at Spot events also went to New York and did well.  Angie Payne (Battle in the Bubble 2010 2nd place) qualified in 2nd, just two holds below the first place qualifier Francesca Metcalf.  Lizzy Asher (Battle in the Bubble 2010 3rd place) qualified in 3rd.  Tyler and Jesse Youngwerth qualified 7th and 12th, respectively, and Emily Harrington qualified in 14th.

For the men, Alex David Johnson (SBS VI open finalist) qualified in 11th.

Full Women’s Quali Results

Full Men’s Quali Results


Tiffany Hensley is in 5th place after semifinals, meaning she’ll compete in finals tomorrow!

1. Angie Payne

2. Sasha DiGiulian

3. Lizzy Asher

4. Francesca Metcalf

5. Tiffany Hensley

6. Dana Riddle

Full Women’s Semis Results

Men’s semi results aren’t up yet, but we know that Jon is in!  Nice job Glassberg!

Other finalists are Vasya Vorotnikov, Mike Feinberg, Tyler Landman, Rob D’Anastasio, and…  there should be one more but I”m not sure who it is yet.

UPDATE – Men’s Finalists in order of qualification:

1.Vasya Vorotnikov

2. Mike Feinberg

3. Ty Landman

4. Rob D’Anastasio

5. Mauricio Huerta

6. Jon Glassberg

Full Men’s Semis Results

You can watch finals live tomorrow –


The Bouldering Book

June 24, 2011 Leave a comment

Long time Boulder local, academic, prolific first ascentionist (he’s even put up routes on a rope!) and bouldering specialist Peter Beal has written a book to help you better understand many aspects of our wonderful sport.  You can pre-order the book now from (just click on the cover above) for a special pre-order price of $14.93.  He also created a blog while he was writing the book that has some interesting content including a nice interview with Daniel Woods from right after the Vail World Cup 2011 – The Bouldering Book Blog.

If you are a Front Range climber, you may also be interested in learning from or submitting to Peter’s online Boulder Canyon Bouldering Guide or reading his personal blog Mountains and Water, which discusses everything from local issues to aspects of climbing that affect the international climbing community.  Peter is a thoughtful and eloquent writer, and his perspective is enlightening, entertaining, and often educational, so if you are obsessed with climbing or training I’d recommend checking out Peter’s sites.

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