Home > Comps, World Cup > IFSC World Cup Barcelona Women’s Qualifiers Results + Screen Shots + Commentary

IFSC World Cup Barcelona Women’s Qualifiers Results + Screen Shots + Commentary

Women’s Qualifiers Results

Several competitors were interviewed after they’d finished competing, and all said that Spain is hot, hot, hot!  Melissa Le Neve speculated that it may be as hot as 35* (that’s celsius!) in the gym where the qualifiers are being held.  Anna Stöhr, Alex Johnson, and Akiyo Noguchi said pretty much the same thing when they were interviewed.  Clearly the conditions were challenging, and we can only assume that as the round progressed things got harder and harder as the day got longer and the temps continued to rise in the gym.  Particularly challenging was the fourth problem, which saw no ascents during the qualification round.

Below are some screen shots, discussion, and some quotes from the commentators on the live feed.  I’m not sure why I found some of them so funny, I think it was a combination of the accents (a Scottish guy named John and male competitor Casper Ten Sijthoff from the Netherlands who got 27th in qualifiers), the situations some of the competitors got themselves into, and the fact that the commentators seemed to be having a jolly old time.

Alexandra Balakireva's (RUS) attempt on problem #1

Commentator 1: “She’s gotten into a funny position there.”

C2: “That must be the Russian Position.”

Top left corner...

C1: “How’s she going to get out of that?”

C2: “She’s Russian so she must know how to get out of the Russian Position.”

Alexandra trying to escape from the Russian Position. It didn't work--she fell off.

On Yuki Sonouchi (JPN) trying #1 with another new method (no pic, sorry!):

C1: “Sunouchi is going for the Tokyo Drift here.”

She falls off.

C2: “That might have worked if she’d put her left foot farther up left.”

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk from Britain crushing the difficult end of problem #1

From Melissa Le Neve’s interview:

“So warm.  The sloper was so slippy.  Horrible to climb.”

“You must convince yourself to climb.  Move!  Move!”

Alexandra on problem #2

More Melissa Le Neve:

“Your body wants to move, sloper wants to slip.”

“Volumes are slippy, and climbing shoes get so soft.”

A nice side-view of the wall. The volunteers are brushing problem 4 and problem 3, and 2 and 1 are further away from the picture. Problem 5 is immediately to the right of the picture. Looks like a nice gym!

From Anna Stöhr’s:

“The hardest part is to motivate myself to climb when it is so hot.”

Alexandra on the seemingly-impossible problem 4.

Vera having some doubt.

On Netherlands team member Vera, who stopped before the last move on #5 and then hung there, trying to figure out how to move.

C2: “She is having a doubt there.”

She fell off.

In the bottom right corner Juliane Wurm (GER), having no doubts, finishes problem #5

On Vera falling for the second time from the last move of #5:

C2: “I told her to top it, and she didn’t.”

Melanie Sandoz sending!

C1: “She was on it like a car bonnet.”

Many of the competitors grabbed the edges of the volumes instead of the holds.  This is totally legal.

Problem 3. Ugh.

Problem 3, above, was barely visited by the cameras and didn’t see many sends, though there were a few.

Back to problem 1, when one of the Spanish girls tried a new method in which she mantled right up the volume instead of going right to the bonus hold:

C2: “Ah, the Spanish Shortcut.”

C1: “The best Spanish girl progress so far.”

She did not end up sending, but to the great delight of the crowd another Spanish girl soon did!

Courtney Sanders trying problem #1 the normal way.

C2: “We were out of beer 1/2 hour ago.”

The Turkish competitor, one of the last to come out, on the difficult problem #5

When all five competitors were standing on the mats looking discouraged:

C1: “They climb in ascending order, with the best athletes first.  They shouldn’t give up though. We know but they don’t, just 1 top might be enough to get through to the semis.  It’s worth it to try.”

He was right, though it was worth it for all competitors to keep trying, as Alex Puccio proved by earning 4 tops through many, many tries.  Arguably she would have made semis either way, but now she is going into semis in a very good ranking which could always come into play if there are ties in later rounds.

On Fanny’s extremely billowy pants:

C1: “Interesting fashion style for her.  Hopefully that’ll keep her cool.”

And on her method–the straight mantle skipping the bonus hold followed by trying not to fall out of the roof:

C2: “Her left foot is still under there, which is quite good.”

C1: “Do you think she’ll do it?”

C2: “She’s got 45 seconds for one move.”

She did it.  By heel hooking on the finish hold.  It was pretty impressive.

Heel-hooking the finish hold. Nice.

Commentator saying no more competitors were coming out, then seeing another girl start problem #1.

“Sorry, I am not right.”

Trying to touch the bonus hold from the Turkish Position on problem #1

C1: “The Turkish postition…”

C2: “Getting her left foot on the bonus hold is not the smartest thing I would do, but…”

The competitor fell off mid-sentence.

She was the only Turkish competitor.

Diane, Mina, and Sabine suffering on problems 2, 3, and 4.

So that’s it for now.  Semis and finals tomorrow!


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